#Any idea what could cause an airbrush to not spray like for the first half of the trigger movement?
100 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
It means you've got a clog or your paint needs thinned more or you need to clean the needle or nozzle
Try just water
If water goes through easy without that issue, it's probably the paint
Have you replaced needle/nozzle with off brand ones?
Nope still the stock needle and nozzle it came with. Wondering if after 2 years they may be the issue, but i can not spot any visible defects.
Its a MIG shader, seems to be incredibly thin, but yeh water goes through a bit better
I don't know what a mig shader is
A airbrush only diluted wash for transparent shading. It should work without further thinning i'd imagine. Thinning it more made it not settle and spiderleg increasingly.
But yes, water does work better.
Curious if any mechanical defect comes to mind that could cause this
The video above was a fresh drop of shadee after the 3rd full clean of the evening, trying to see whats wrong
The most simple explanations are what I said
Either you need to clean the needle off better, the nozzle out better, or your paint needs to be thinned better, are you using thinner or water to thin or what
Do you happen to have any windex or glass cleaner
Yep, I use glass cleaner for cleaning the ab
K
Wonder if it being so foamy may be an issue
Will have to stir it gently id imagine
Not really
I use it to thin all water based acrylics and it's not a problem
If that doesn't work, I'd ask what are you cleaning your nozzle with
Tried ipa, acetone, and cellulose thinner this evening, then use a paper-point to get through the nozzle
a paper point?
interesting, that's a good idea
then I would check the tip of the needle
if there's any bend
if not, check the nozzle for a crack or ding or any sort on the tip
Then it's the paint
Yeh
Either it's too grainy, or it isn't thinned enough, or you need to strain it possibly
do you have any solvent based paint
like tamiya
Only a primer
what primer is it
Oh, ak streaking grime i got too
that's enamel
Nope, still trying to find out what kind of hardware store chemical lacquer thinner is. Some I found seem to be acetone, some "Nitro". Have not dug deeper as i have no lacquer paints.
you in the US?
EU, germany, hardware store thinners got some really strange naming going on here
I see
here in the US it's just lacquer thinner
acetone works though
nitro I think is enamel thinner or something close
Yeh i usually check for the english text on the back, its more clear there.
White spirit is usually "brush cleaner" here for example :/
do you have thinner for the streaking grime
No
then you can't try that
is the AK primer pre-thinned for airbrush supposedly
I mean whatever
forget that
It worked better than Vallejo primers at least
if water sprays fine through it, you need to thin your paint more, or it's got chunks in it that needs to be strained out, or it's just too grainy to spray easily that way
but most stuff that says airbrushable, needs to be thinned a bit further anyways
But i see what you are getting at, try some proven AB paint to benchmark it
yeah but if you don't have thinner for it, I wouldn't bother
Yeh ill try with some fountain pen ink maybe
it's just that solvent based paint is easier to spray at fine levels like you're aiming for
Should be dye based i guess
that would work at least to see how well it's working ye
Yup
What PSI are you spraying at? Does it happen spraying just water?
already asked that question bro
Ok bro
bro
@clever tinsel honestly I would just check if the nut that holds the needle in the back is tight and if it is then I would replace the nozzle
just go straight to spending 20 bucks
The nozzle looks pretty great under a magnifier, and i'd assume any kind of damaged or chipped nozzle would spray "more" rather than less?
unless it was pinched or so but it looks pretty pristine
yeah normally a split nozzle means it sprays without the needle being pulled back
little update:
Spraying pure water seems to work, its a bit mixed results, at first it took a good bit till it sprayed but after a few runs it sprayed right away. Sound like it blew out a clog but i am still not sold on that. Especially since there was no stain on the plain paper i used for testing.
I emailed Iwata (whos support is amazing btw.) and after a bit of back and forth showing them closeup photos of the parts they suggest using "Medea Thread Sealer" (some kind of beeswax chapstick) to seal all the threads. Me cleaning all the cap parts together with the nozzle apparently removed the factory applied sealer.
Also one should definitely use the little wrench to properly tighten the pressure fit nozzle, which i never really bothered to do either.
Will see if i can get hold of besswax or that sealer and check if it makes a difference.
That’s good to know, I had suspicion there might be a leak on the nozzle, that’s why I recommended just swapping it. If you want to try and salvage it, here is the beeswax I use:
Alternative Imagination 100% Pure Beeswax Bar (1 Ounce), Made in USA https://a.co/d/9QIdvgH
Beeswax is made by worker honeybees to divide the walls of their hive. This wonderful substance has in turn been harvested by humans through many centuries for many uses, including cosmetics, candle making, and various household needs. Beeswax has many uses, including candle making, balms, soaps,...
Ah dang, was just out for shopping and got some mostly beeswax chapsticks.
Wonder if a 100% beeswax candle would have worked.
EU here so even if i wanted, iwatas own thread sealer is nowhere to be found here
Ok 20 PSI, beeswax chapstick applied to threads to seal them, tightened with the included wrench and 1:1 diluted with airbrush thinner.
I think it works as well as I can expect at my current skill level now 👌
i would assume most of the cause for this success was due to the added thinner, I may try again without it too
Just tried without thinner, and while not quite as nicely it also sprays a lot better now.
I would seem the wax and tightening did help!
Another thing to try is technique, spraying super thin lines with acrylics is really tough, so instead try rocking the trigger back and forth to get the detail you're looking for
you won't get thin lines, but you can paint detail that way without spiderwebbing
@clever tinsel glad you fixed it!
Yeh, I actually fell back to it myself for my "failed" attempt a few days ago.
Guess its about learning better trigger control to make that rocking technique work decently, like any airbrushing really.
But I can definitely see it work.
I think I saw pictures of some old airbrushes back the day that even had motors to do just that.
haha, also thanks for your support with it ;)
No worries we are here to help each other but Iwata’s support team where the ones that had the definite solution 🙏👍
ITs pretty cool how responsive iwata is