3D Print Gulag

[formal cloak]

Sadly they're the only ones that can bend over your print

[mossy urchin]

Ugghhh third ever print, second one multi-filament. Extruder CLOGGED.
Think the slicer messed up...
had no purge tower configured since I set bambu studio to print by object for this one.
First object: ASA. All went well.
Second object: PLA. While loading the filament, the extruder wheels seem to have sucked it sideways (into the wheel-well)
The filament hardened in a position unaffected by the gear-wheels, yet had enough connection to the main piece that it didn't just snap off inside or was able to detach when yanking on the main piece.

Had to take out the entire extruder,
disassemble it (which was actually quite easy)
heat up the filament while yanking fairly hard
(the gears wouldn't come loose since the sideways melted filament blocked the concave shape)

would not like to imagine what it would be like if this happened with ASA instead ._.
Tho I guess it wouldn't have since the problem probably existed in the first place because the wheels were still hot from the ASA

Anyways...

All back together now.
Will keep an eye on prints permanently switching from ASA to PLA without a purge tower (maybe an oversight in the slicer?)

Don't think I can tell it to bloody wait until the hotend has cooled down for X amount of time before loading a lower-temp filament...

Maybe I'll just mainly switch to some other slicer but I'll see how actually usable this one stays...

[humble terrace]

At least they have extensive docs on how to pull all that apart. (I used said docs when I upgraded to hardened steel gears)

[formal cloak]

I am thinking of getting the Anycubic Kobra 3 Max, I kinda need a large format 3D printer for Cosplay.

But I don't know if it's a good choice

Like, there's not much about it and both the Anycubic and Orcaslicer don't have a profile for it

Only for the normal Kobra 3

Is it wise to use the Kobra 3 profile and just change the build volume in the settings for the Kobra 3 Max?

[slender oasis]

I know someone with one. he loves it but I have also seen him have to deal with a hell of allot of tuning and trouble shooting so I dont know

the large format printer I want is the Sovol SV08, voron clone. but those are very much tinkerer printers

[formal cloak]

There's no multi-colour variant from it?

[slender oasis]

not that I know of. some people around the teaching tech youtube channel were working on making a tool changer for it based off the voron tool changer but I have not heard much about that project lately.

[formal cloak]

Ah, yeah, then the Kobra 3 stays my choice for now

[slender oasis]

Elegoo is coming out with a multi material thing some time this year. just get an OrangeStorm giga

would be cool if elegoo does a plus and max version of the centary like they did with the neptune

[formal cloak]

I kinda need it in 2 weeks as I have to print a helmet but don't want to slice it in 6 parts, it's faster getting the Kobra 3 Max than printing it on my Ender 3 in 1 colour😅

I am planning to get the OrangeStorm, but not now😅

[slender oasis]

lol you are?

I ment that as a joke 😛

[formal cloak]

When you 3D print Cosplay parts, sometimes even the Kobra 3 Max is too small, and I don't like glueing because I absolutely hate the taste from it😅

[slender oasis]

maybe dont eat the glue?

[formal cloak]

I don't have to, I can't smell, but my taste is extremely strong, like when people say "That perfume smells so nice", I almost die of the chemical junk they put in it 🤣

Same with food, if they use a lot of chemically grown foods or use chemicals, I can taste it.

[slender oasis]

I also cant deal with most perfumes and similar things. but its because my sense of smell is too strong and has no filtering (thanks ASD!)

[formal cloak]

Imagine tasting it, I learned myself not to throw up

Also, medical grade resin tastes weird, not toxic, but weird, almost like plants

[slender oasis]

cant, its likely your sense of taste is very different if you lack a sense of smell. for most people there are only a handful of tastes, everything else is smell. but its likely your senses have compensated and changed so its probably very different and not something someone can really imagine

[slender oasis]

that one I do know. I recently got a bunch of composit fillings and I fucking hate them. first off they hurt all the time because my dentist is a hack but they also have a horrible resin taste that has never fully went away

[formal cloak]

Most likely that has happened, most people can't imagine as they don't understand why lets say McDonald's meat tastes like absolute nothing but cardboard.

[formal cloak]

They definitely didn't clean it properly beforehand.

[slender oasis]

I am so mad about my fillings issue and I have another tooth that is in desperate need of attention but I dont know what to do about it. I cant find another dentist that takes my insurance but I cant bring my self to go back to this idiot

so I am guessing its CA glue that you really cant stand to use? that stuff has a very strong and horrible smell and taste (yes I have gotten it in my mouth before)

[formal cloak]

Most super glues and plastic glues I can't stand.
Like I already wear a respirator I designed myself(with robot vacuum cleaner sized filters) to go outside so I don't tasted every car that passes by.

[slender oasis]

I have been thinking about customizing a painting resperator into something nice and cyberpunk looking so I can wear it around town. that is how bad the Canadian wild fire smoke as been this year. and we live in a cyberpunk world now so might as well

[formal cloak]

It's actually a lot of fun to make them, but the piece around the mouth, I hope you have a good TPU printer or you can use soft foam if you know how to properly cut it.

[slender oasis]

wasnt going to try to print a fully custom one, just modify and customize an existing one to look cool.

[formal cloak]

That's also possible 😅

I had to design from scratch so it doesn't look like a respirator

Mine is smooth from the front as the filters are pointing my cheeks, I am also building a chest piece respirator combo.

I noticed I store a lot of stuff on my chest bag and hoodie pockets, so why not make a cool chest piece.
There's also enough space in my cleavage for a bigger filter.

[formal cloak]

https://youtu.be/vzDkFngOQQ8?si=JJQ0o4SmT5IVajE3

[formal cloak]

Okay, I have been thinking to get the Anycubic Kobra 3 Max, only to find out their own slicer and OrcaSlicer both don't have a profile for it.

[tight river]

Is it pretty new? Took a few months for my slicer to have an official profile, but you could make your own in the meantime

[formal cloak]

Older than the Elegoo Carbon, which already has a profile....

It was released in April

Even the Anycubic slicer has no profile for it, so they sell a piece of hardware with no software support

[slender oasis]

elegoo carbon has profiles because it shipped with Orca as its default slicer

well I think they slapped there name on it like always but still orca

they have to have a default profile even if its a shit one. no one ships a printer without a basic profile to print with

I will go ask the person I know with one

[formal cloak]

If you can, that would be great help, the reason I want the Kobra 3 Max is so I can 3D print a helmet in 1 go, because I suck at glueing stuff together.

[slender oasis]

hm, they might have a Kobra 3 and an older Kobra max. sent them a message

[formal cloak]

It would really help, I tried making a profile from scratch but even failed at that🤣

[slender oasis]

I had to put allot of work into my Neptune 3 pro profile. what shipped with this thing was total trash. I never got the retractions right until finally the prusa community profiles for my printer were released and I was able to see what I had done wrong (the 3 pro requires higher retractions then is normally needed on a direct drive for some reason)

[tight river]

My elegoo came with it's profile in their own slicer as well, it's basically ultimaker with an elegoo logo on it

[slender oasis]

yeah elegoo switched from rebadged cura to orca with the Centary printers I think

and it seems they are actually putting in at least some effort no the profiles now. unlike when my printer came out. bambu has forced everyone to up there game in that area. some are late to the party

hm, friend has a Max 1 but says there is a profile for the Max 3 in anycubic's slicer. you should be able to export a 3mf file from it with that profile and load it into orca

[formal cloak]

And Anycubic also uses Orca these days, but only have profiles for the Kobra 2 series and only Kobra 3 base model.

[slender oasis]

Anycubic Next should have the base profile in it

it sounds like its very basic as well and that sucks

[formal cloak]

I have Anycubic Next and I can't find a profile for the 3 Max

[slender oasis]

what version?

[formal cloak]

Latest, I have to check soon.

As soon I type "Max" in the search field I only get the 2 Max, even a base profile is already better than none

[formal cloak]

I cant find the version, but this is all the printers it supports, the Anycubic Slicer Next

[slender oasis]

I just checked the nightly build of Orca to see if it had a profile in it yet, dosnt look like it

dont know what the deal is

[formal cloak]

I dont know either, but it's 3 months old, and I aint gonna buy a 3 month old product without software support

[slender oasis]

maybe they are doing something stupid where you have to download a beta version of there slicer and the link to that is hidden somewhere else

only thing I can think

I mean the comments on reddit say there should be a profile but it sounds bare bones as hell

not impressed with that

who else has a large format modern printer out right now? Elegoo's Neptune 4s are a bit dated now and lacking some of the modern features you would really want and I dont think they will ever support multi color

I think creality has something? but the creality dice role is hard to recommend

[formal cloak]

A friend has 1, and his Ender 5 has commited Harakiri twice

[slender oasis]

there is the there is the Qidi Plus4 but that is on the exspensive side and I think I recently heard some worrying things about there power suplies, that they were a fire hazard or something. didnt look into the details

[slender oasis]

yeah, I cant really every recommend creality anymore because of that kind of BS

[formal cloak]

I still want the CR30 I think its called, the 1 with the threadmill, but thats because I want to print swords

[slender oasis]

honestly the Kobra max 3's price for what it is also kinda stinks

[formal cloak]

700 for the 3 Max Combo?

[slender oasis]

750, or 550 without the changer. so 200 bucks for the filament changer and 550 for a bedslinger even if it is a big one

[formal cloak]

Still, I just find it unacceptable how there's no advanced profile for it

[slender oasis]

lol, Sovol released a Max version of the SV08, its 500x500x500 print volume

[formal cloak]

Sadly I cant find 1 in Europe

[slender oasis]

yeah, that is total BS. esspecially at that price. as I keep saying what makes bambu good isnt there printers its the damn profiles. they put allot of work into giving people a huge selection of good well tuned profiles and that makes all the difference in usablity esspecially for people new to printing.

when printers come with one basic bare bones PLA profile and thats it and it dosnt even work with a shit other then to print a benchy. that is just nonsense and it needs to stop

lol, that SV08max has the option for an enclosure as well. thats a crazy printer

the standard SV08 is already a monster at 350x350

[formal cloak]

To be honest, I think I am gonna get the S1 Combo, deal with the glueing for now and save up for a Bambu, just been looking around for good multi coloured printers, and everyone complains about the K2, Anycubic doesnt have a profile for their large format, Sovol doesnt sell in EU.
People complain about Bambu but at least their shit works

[hasty leaf]

I think at least one is at shop at Poland?
https://www.3djake.pl/sovol/sv08-max

[formal cloak]

I live in the Netherlands😅

[hasty leaf]

You wrote that cant find one at Europe? Last I checked we still were at EU... 😉

Also at that price if not needed such print area I would opt for Bambu?

[formal cloak]

Fair enough, but my Polski is very bad so I never search in that language😅

[formal cloak]

I need to be able to print a helmet

[hasty leaf]

Write to them at english. Most of polish shops are able to comunicate at that language.

[slender oasis]

S1?

[hasty leaf]

And... if you need sth to translate a bit from Polski let me know.

[slender oasis]

omg I cant even look at the creality website. I hate websites like that!

why does the helmet needs to be multi color printed anyway?

[formal cloak]

Kobra S1, an enclosed CoreXY multi-coloured printer that has a printer profile, but it is only 25cm x 25cm x 25cm

[slender oasis]

hm, guessing paint is hard for you to deal with as well if glue is?

[formal cloak]

Paint is okay, but I have this very nice silk silver PLA that gives a brushed aluminium look, I have no idea how to do that with paint

[slender oasis]

this?

that is actually allot easier to do with paint then you might think

the Kobra S1 combo seems like a resonable deal. another option would be the QIDI Q1 Pro and the QIDI box. same price at least in the US. I think the Q1 Pro might have slightly better features but I dont know for sure. but I am slightly hesitent to recommend a QIDI printer now after how the handled the fire risk with the Plus 4 printer

[formal cloak]

I never done something like that 😅

[slender oasis]

I cant help but think weighting might be a good idea considering what your looking for. Elegoo says they will be releasing there multi color box in 3rd quarter so that should be fairly soon but not seen any updates on that and I would put money on them release plus and max sizes of the Centary printers some time in the next few months as well. so it might be that you can get a really nice fully enclosed multi color setup for under 1k in the near future

[slender oasis]

you wouldnt beleive how easy that effect was. black primer, then generic silver metallic spray paint was the cheap stuff. looked like this

after that I weathered it with black acrylic paint diluted with water and a paper towle. just get it dirty then try to clean it a bit slopply

after that, I highlighted the edges with silver rub'n buff. just using my finger

can do light or heavy weathering depending on how new you want it to look

rub'n buff is the key to good aluminum finishes

I find painting probs to be the most fun part of all of this stuff. I love it

the helmet I did

cheap apple barrel acrylic craft paint and rub'nBuff

oh and mica. that has some custom mica paints on it as well

that is my special secret sauce

the laser rifle didnt need that

doing iron was harder

[formal cloak]

I got a profile from someone, but it looks like it was an edited Kobra 3 base profile

For OrcaSlicer that is

[formal cloak]

I have 1.5 weeks to make a Helldivers outfit 😅
And because I am very very bad at paint, I don't know if I would succeed at what you did.

[mossy urchin]

Any recommended 3D-printing gadgets I can 3D print?`
on a spree currently... up next: purge chute collector

[slender oasis]

I have printed almost nothing for 3d printing

like I printed a tool holder for my printers tool and then decided I didnt like it and ditched it. thats about it

printed tools for helping to process 3d prints, like custom sanding sticks/blocks and clamps

[tight river]

I only printed some stuff for my ender 3v2, a filament guide and a z screw top support

I remember seeing someone who designed a lever for the 3v2 which, with some g code at the end, would hit the power supply switch

[formal cloak]

I never printed anything for my Ender 3 V3 because it has been a pain using that thing, 1 nozzle is already gone and replacement Nozzle is shorter so the offset is a lot🤣

[tight river]

My ender has been used once since i got my elegoo

[formal cloak]

I am done, I am gonna get the Kobra S1, not dealing with the broken shit for now

[humble terrace]

Box for spare hot-ends and other bits?

[mossy urchin]

Hhmmm yeah, enclosure that somewhat attaches to it would be nice - to refrain from loosing it...
good point actually!
At the moment I only have another stainless .4mm one but all the lubricants and allen keys could certainly "clip" into a little box 🤔

[humble terrace]

I printed a box once I bought a hardened .4, hardened .6, and the stainless .2.

Seemed wise

[formal cloak]

Anyone experience with FLsun?

[mossy urchin]

Recommendations for nozzle sizes?
Thinking:

• Very fine prints in .2 stainless (since abrasive stuff would probably clog it anyways)
• Regular prints .4 hardened
• course but strong in .8 even? Or should I not go too thick?

[humble terrace]

In addition to the .4 stainless it came with, I purchased .2 stainless for attempting one particular print of ||redacted|| that I want some more detail out of, a .4 hardened for general purposes and maybe more exotic materials, and a .6 hardened for larger stuff.
I've been running the .6 since then because I'm too lazy to switch back to the .4.

I haven't really entertained the idea of running .8, but obviously there's a use case

[slender oasis]

wish nozzle changes were easy on my printer, I would have a 0.2 and 0.6 as well but its so damn annoying to do on mine its just not worth it

also a 0.6 wouldnt do me any good without a higher flowing hotend anyway

seeing as I already print 0.8mm lines with my 0.4

dont think my little hotend could handle 1.2mm lines

not without slowing WAY down

[brisk moth]

0.2mm nozzles are really finicky. They tend to clog if you look at them funny, and because of the really constricting aperture and low required layer heights you need to print really slowly. Which means that even small prints take insanely long

[slender oasis]

well that is the entire point of them. to print tiny high detail parts

for when you want as close to resin quality as you can get with fdm

[mossy urchin]

Lmao <redacted> xD

[humble terrace]

I'll definitely post it all around here once finished, but I need to find some better ways to clean up the source model first.

[mossy urchin]

Ahh

[slender oasis]

most of my prints have to be redacted.

[mossy urchin]

..based? xD

[mossy urchin]

Currently designing a more or less all-in-one filament swatch...
still planning on adding

• "at different thicknesses" feature
• vertical screw insert
• Color name
• Manufacturer Logo or name
• QR-Code link of shop page (will probably use single-layer of white filament for that or snap-inplace printed separately)

what else would y'all suggest as a test/calibration feature that might fit into a 5mm-card envelope?

Also designing something like this (but hopefully multi-layerable) for these to go into

Also, before you ask: yes, this is most likely overkill.
However it's a nice excercise in design and modeling

[mossy urchin]

Ehh changed around some stuff because I forgot about cylindric tolerances

[formal cloak]

I just got my Kobra S1, and it's currently calibrating, and while it does that it sounds like a turbo fan starting up

[formal cloak]

I am very impressed with the Kobra S1, even test prints happen very dast and accurate

[mossy urchin]

Hmm does it make sense to use supports in calibration / test prints?

Also... turns out text is not that readable with .4mm nozzles lol

already counting cash for the alternative nozzles

[slim sandal]

for a new printer what sizes would you recomend

[mossy urchin]

...why not throw in another roll of filament and make it a clean hundred?
WHO SAID THAT
ohh god it's starting again :/

[mossy urchin]

Does this answer your question? :D

[slim sandal]

so 2 4 and 8

I assume you already have a 6

[tight river]

yes

[mossy urchin]

• .4 stainless came with the printer
• I'm skipping .6 because I don't think I need that intermediate step,
• I'm taking the smallest hardened (.4) and
• the largest one for biiiiig

Tempted to get a filament that kinda looks like gold - does that find much use for you guys?

[tight river]

I got one by accident, does look nice

although the prints itself turn out fairly yellow, not gold

[mossy urchin]

Well the options from bambu are also rather.... bronze... or whatever that is

[formal cloak]

Damn, I prefer Sunlu, eSun and Polymaker Silk PLA, those look simply amazing

[mossy urchin]

Gonna stick to bambu for the time being - it's pretty affordable actually

[formal cloak]

30.- for filament I think is starting to be expensive for filament 😅

[mossy urchin]

Tbf that's not standard - and during sales (quite frequently it seems) PLA regularly drops down to 17| or 4 for 3 offers

[formal cloak]

Like this?

[mossy urchin]

Ohh dang never mind

[formal cloak]

😅

[mossy urchin]

Gonna have to get into using 3rd party filament and dialing in settings

Tho the comfort I bought with everything pre-dialed DO be nice

And with all the automatic recognition etc.

wish there was an open standard I could mod into the bambu

[formal cloak]

That's why I am using OrcaSlicer lately

[tight river]

Last time i bought Elegoo brand, paid 10 bucks per kg

[formal cloak]

If I had the money and storage that would be something I would buy, but I am poor and live in a 4m x 3m closet

[mossy urchin]

100 SPOOLS!?

[mossy urchin]

You don't have bambu, do you?

[tight river]

But is it 100 of the same colour?

[formal cloak]

Nah, I am gonna stick to Anycubic currently and maybe in the future I am getting the H2D, but currently my budget is just enough for the Kobra S1

[mossy urchin]

What would you print with 100kg of anything lol

[formal cloak]

Nope, you can choose your colours 😅

[formal cloak]

Yes

[tight river]

Whatever the heck you want

Except guns, that is illegal over here

[formal cloak]

I have airsoft guns😃

[tight river]

I think it might still get you into trouble

I only print stuff for my gun, like mag holders or a box for bullets

[formal cloak]

Depends, you need to be approved to carry an airsoft gun, which means no criminal background

And not carrying in open public

[tight river]

Oh i know the rules

still, printing realistic gun-like parts

The law is vague on purpose

[formal cloak]

Like the GM6 Lynx I have 3D printed?

[tight river]

it could yeah

[formal cloak]

Darn 🤣

I doubt they care enough to stop someone with a purple with gold and wooden grips sniper rifle

[tight river]

I have seen pink guns with hello kitty decals on them that were real🙃

[formal cloak]

Fair enough

Luckily I always carry my license on me

Gun in the back, ammo in the front

[tight river]

i have a range buddy who has a gun for which mags are hard to get due to... geopolitcal reasons. I found the model for them online and we asked the permit authority if i was allowed to print some for him as it's not a 'gun-part'. The response was a bureaucrat version of "Absolutely fucking not! How dare you even ask this"

[tight river]

Wherever my gun goes, I go with it, as do the papers. Ammo kept seperate

[formal cloak]

Well, I am not doing that, nor do I own any real guns, only airsoft.
Only gun I would love to own is a GM6 Lynx, but I am not that rich😅

[tight river]

Gl getting a large calibre sniper rifle. Also the ammo is expensive af

If you start now you could own one in.... 3 years

[formal cloak]

I am also not staying in the Netherlands, I am waiting till I move out

[tight river]

took me 4 years to get a gun, they werent handing out permits during covid

[formal cloak]

4 years is doable

But I am more looking into Scandinavian gun laws

But yeah, I have a 3D printed GM6 Lynx😅

[tight river]

Best to keep it out of sight outside of the airsoft range.

Only takes one officer who is having a bad day

[elder linden]

I mean, in west europe even airsoft weapons are supposed to be in a closed box outside of the fields lol

[formal cloak]

It is allowed as long I don't take my shells with me

And only on the fields

[tight river]

Sure thing, just a little advice, dont have to take it

[formal cloak]

I have a niece in the police force, so I asked her all about it.

[humble terrace]

The generic profiles have worked fine for me for inland filaments so far.

[formal cloak]

OrcaSlicer has a profile for majority of known brands and it helps pretty well.

[mossy urchin]

inland filaments?

[humble terrace]

microcenter's in house brand

[formal cloak]

My experiences with in house brands are iffy😅

Like I have like 4 spools of an in house brand, and only the Tough PLA prints flawlessly

[humble terrace]

As far as I know it's a "white label" type product. Someone else manufactures it, they just put their name on it.

It's most of what I've been using so far. Reasonably priced and locally available for me. I'm likely switching to Polar Filaments as I begin to run out of each roll now.

[slender oasis]

I think microcenter has long been known for having good filament?

[humble terrace]

It's generally worked fairly well for me

[formal cloak]

Okay, my little journey with 3D printing.

People always told me "Get the Creality Ender 3, it's a great 3D printer for beginners, that way you can see if you like it".
My experiences with the Ender 3 V3 have been 4/10 times successful prints, small prints mind you, and 6/10 times just pure trouble, it almost made me want to throw it in the trash.
Like its 1st prints were good, not baffling but good.

Now I got the Anycubic Kobra S1, the printer many told me not to get as a 1st or 2nd printer, so far 10/10 times successful prints, and these prints are almost the size of the build plate.
It's fast and the stair stepping is less in 0.2mm in the Kobra S1 than it was on 0.1mm on the Ender 3 V3.
I should've gotten the Kobra S1 from the beginning of my journey.

[slender oasis]

I dont know who was telling you to get an ender 3 but slap them

ender 3 was a good recomendation 5+ years ago and over the last 3 years they have moved so far down the list that no one should be recommending them

any creality printer for that matter

[brisk moth]

its big thing was always the price. it was for the longest time the best at its price point, and about the minimum price you could pay for something that wasnt a chinesium fisher price toy

[formal cloak]

Oh I already did, send them the bill of the Ender 3 V3🤣

[formal cloak]

I have a top budget for 1K for the 3D printer at the time, was told a 250.- costing Ender 3 would be the best for its price and I have many room to spend on filament.

Not only did I waste 25.- on a spool that didn't once print correctly, I had to buy a new nozzle and a better build plate for it.
So that printer did cost me in the neighbourhood of 400.-

That's 100.- less than my Kobra S1 Combo

[brisk moth]

for 1k you could have got one of the prusas

[formal cloak]

All of the assembled ones are out of my budget

[brisk moth]

prusa mini is 450usd

and the mk4 is 999usd assembled, or 730usd kit

[formal cloak]

I don't want a build plate smaller than 20cm by 20cm

So mini printers fall sadly in that category

[brisk moth]

which is reasonable. its the biggest "issue" with the prusa mini

[formal cloak]

Same with the BambuLab Mini

Which would've been a much better choice than an Ender 3 V3

But I definitely fallen in love with the Kobra S1, this thing been nothing but impressive coming from an Ender 3

[slender oasis]

the Kobra S1 seems like a resonable good printer. my only issue with it was I think the Century is a little bit better deal but seeing as you needed an AMS that wasnt an option

these newer gen printers are leaps ahead

wish I could upgrade to one. my neptune 3 pro has been a very reliable workhorse for me and still works great but I really would love an enclosed high temp high speed printer

[formal cloak]

I believe they're incoming, like an AMS for the Centauri, but I don't know how good it'll be against the Kobra S1

[slender oasis]

yeah, last I heard was 3rd quarter for the centarui ams like system but that was a while ago

[formal cloak]

That's what I heard as well, 1st I have to see how the price will be, I seen the Kobra S1 Combos go for 500.- already.

[slender oasis]

ah if it go's on sale that cheap then that is a competative price with the centauri, the centauri carbon is 300 on its own

that is why I thought it was a better deal then the S1 if you dont count the multi matieral unit.

its about 100 bucks cheaper then the S1

[formal cloak]

The Anycubic AMS is amazing, even though people complain about it I haven't found problems with it just yet

[slender oasis]

I imagine the Elegoo ams will be around 200 like most of the other companies but who knows they might suprise everyone liek they did with the carbon's price

[formal cloak]

For that price I want a dryer in it, just like the Kobra S1, and the BambuLab AMS

[slender oasis]

meh, I dont care about the dryers in them. most are not hot enough to dry PA and cant print tpu so like what is the point?

I guess useful if your in a really humid area and even PETG or ABS has problems

[formal cloak]

Netherlands basically, I leave the spool out for 2 minutes and I can dry it already 🤣

[slender oasis]

what I want is a printer that can print PA (nylon) without filler, just plain nylon

that basically means active heated chamber (and the bed heater does not count for that) a bed that gets hot enough for nylon, a drybox you can print from and a really good filament dryer

[formal cloak]

I have been asking something similar from Resin printers, give us freaking Ceramic that doesn't shrink to half the size😑

[slender oasis]

thats asking the impossible

[formal cloak]

I know 😅

Medical grade resin is tough enough for me

[formal cloak]

So, something similar to most enclosed CoreXY printers?

[slender oasis]

yeah but most of them dont have an actively heated chamber. I think the qidi printer does but I dont know if it gets hot enough. a chamber heater is something I would probably just have to mod in

[formal cloak]

I have been reading on certain forums that the Anycubic Kobra S1 chamber gets too hot for some people 😅

I don't know if that was a firmware bug or something that only happens in warmer areas of the world, but with PLA it doesn't get as hot as people claim it to be

[slender oasis]

pla dosnt like heat, often with enclosed printers this can be a problem. mostly just need to print with the door open if its a problem

[formal cloak]

I noticed during a heatwave and printing on my Ender 3, 90% of the prints failed🤣

Weirdly enough the nozzle on the KS1, is 15c hotter than my Ender 3, and it prints just fine on my KS1 but strings on my Ender 3

[mossy urchin]

@formal cloak
what you think about this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7EWexck8NE&list=WL&index=104&pp=gAQBiAQB

($170 compact solid state electrolytic dehumidifer)

The idea is that you just clamp em to the airtight areas that you want to keep try and by splitting the water in the air into oxygen and hydrogen through a membrane you can effectifely move water out of the box

It's also pretty power efficient seemingly

Seemingly linear price scaling between the product sizes

Also the complete kits for that larger one are only 150 Pounds, not $170
https://micro-dehumidifier.com/product/m-3j1r-set-complete-external-mounting-set/

24€ for a 5L enclosure unit
actually REALLY reasonable

[tight river]

That would be plenty for a few rolls, i mostly use the same colour anyway

[mossy urchin]

Do you mean me or is this about something else?

[tight river]

I meant 24 euro for 5l

[mossy urchin]

For just 2 kWh/year you can run a module like those 🤔
210ml/day at 60% air humidity 30°C...
wondering how they perform at lower humidities - trying to get more information about that but even if it linearly drops (which I would assume 🤔 ) 24 bucks and a little 3V PSU (or stepdown) is nothing you can do much wrong with...

[mossy urchin]

Not sure what you mean then. 5L is the volume this module is appropriate for - so practically the container size for the filaments
just that we're on the same page

[tight river]

Yeah that's what i meant, i agree with you that it looks like a great and affordable solution

I'll look into this tomorrow, brain be fried now

The power cost is negligible, we have solar anyway

[mossy urchin]

Alright, lemme know what yall think.
Will probably print something instead of cutting into my 200€ material changer lol

Like a replacement panel for some removeable panel

Btw just checked the product sheet - all common filaments are compatible with this (i.E. The fumes they produce do not harm the element)+

https://micro-dehumidifier.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/ROSAHL_English.pdf
here's the brochure if anyone's interested

The interesting ones are RS1/RS2 (difference is soldered vs blade connector)
I'll shut up about them now lol xD

[formal cloak]

Well, here's the thing, my body is so fucked that when the air gets too dry and hot(above 25c), I literally overheat, so I kinda need the humidity to be between 50% and 70% to be comfortable😅

I use to have a dehumidifier, and it actually made me sick in the long run.

[slender oasis]

dehumidifiers are not for comfort they are for drying a room out

I was so happy when tech connections did a video on this. so much bs info out there about them and people using them wrong because that is how they are advertized, its basically a scam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_QfX0SYCE8

[formal cloak]

Oh I know, but my 3D printer is in my room😅

[mossy urchin]

... I was talking about using this for filament drying. actually the room humidity would rise while using this.
You were the one that worked in dehumidifying, weren't you? 🤔

[formal cloak]

I have an air purifier, not a dehumidifier 😅

And I use my Kobra S1 AMS to dry my filament

Okay I have 2 powerful air purifiers 🤔

[slender oasis]

tries to ignore the increase in stringy plastic like dust in my air purifier prefilter after I started 3d printing "I am sure its fine"

[formal cloak]

https://youtu.be/9QpC0YI4kiU

[slender oasis]

elegoo printers are all loud, for some reason they think a small jet engine is required to cool the main board

oh and my elegoo laser has the same problem, jet engine on the main board

keep wanting to swap it out for something quieter but I am not sure quiet 40mm fans actually exist and that is the problem. give it a bigger fan!

[formal cloak]

Ever heard Anycubic's vibration test?
It makes it sound like a turbofan starting up😅

[slender oasis]

the wiggle calibration

[formal cloak]

Look to Noctua, they have really good and quiet 40mm fans

[slender oasis]

I have a theory that cats use the same tech. there butt wiggle before pouncing is a motion calibration subroutine

[slender oasis]

yeah I only run noctua on my computer. but I am not sure I can match the CFM of the stock fan with one of those or not. they also have a very limited selection of 24v fans

actually I think I have one corsair fan on my case, one that came with the case. it was quite enough when I first got it so I left it alone. but guess what, I am now hearing a bit of fan whine that I dont like and I would bet anything its that corsair

but I am not sure if its actually the fan, it might be bad PWM control from the new MB as that is when it started

[formal cloak]

I think static pressure is far more important than CFM.

I noticed that on some PCs, like my brother had high CFM fans before, they were loud and should've moved a lot of air, but his PC overheated.
We replaced all fans with high static pressure that are lower CFM and all problems are gone.

It could be that 3D printers work the same, as I often see them use blower fans, which are high static pressure fans.

[slender oasis]

all depends on the use case. some spots do better with high CFM some need high pressure. a fan pulling air out of an enclosure tends to be a CFM situation. radiators or in a tight spot or heat sinks, then you want the pressure

standard noctua fans have balanced performance so they tend to just work

[formal cloak]

Only Noctua fans I ever had were all high static pressure 😅

[slender oasis]

the A12?

A12-25

[formal cloak]

I have the NF-P12 and P14, Noctua themselves told me they're for high static pressure.

Also, this is how it feels to start an Ender 3 with how cumbersome they are.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Hz_MQZjz8Vo

[brisk moth]

pumping air in/out of a box like those do you tend to want CFM. its not trying to directly push through anything to high static pressure... has little meaning

[formal cloak]

I think it varies per situation though, and per fan as well.

My brother use to have Corsair LX fans, those things are noisy high speed fans, which cooled way worse than the slower and quieter RX fans which are meant for static pressure.

The odd thing is, he has a giant PC case.

[brisk moth]

PC cases often have noticably constricted air intakes (vents, decorative coverings, etc)

[formal cloak]

He has the Hyte Y70

[brisk moth]

yeah, that fits the definition well

[formal cloak]

I have the Lian-Li A3, also with Corsair RX fans and I have a workstation with Noctua NF-P fans

[formal cloak]

I don't know if it's good, but my Anycubic Kobra S1 just completed a 15 hour print in 11 hours, no freaking clue how it did that.
It's just on default speed while using Tough PLA from Polymaker.

[slender oasis]

that is common. from what I have seen most print profiles dont bother to actually put the real acceleration values the printer is using into the profile. that data is needed for accurate print time predictions. the error gets larger the longer the print is. I recently put the correct values in my profile and I went from 12hr estimate pints finishing in 10hrs to always finishing exactly when it said it would +/- 5mins

I think this can actually cause problems as well if you often print near your maximum volumetic flow like I do. because it wont be able to get an accurate esitmation of how much you will be flowing and so it might slow the print down more then it needs to or not slow it down enough to keep you under that value

[formal cloak]

So if a printer has insane acceleration like mine it literally cuts hours from the print?

[slender oasis]

its just the estimate that is wrong. the estimates are hours off even on my machine with slower accelerations.

for the slicer to get the estimate right the correct speeds and acceleration values that your printer is actually using are required but the people making these profiles often dont bother with them because they generally have little to no effect on the print just the time estimate

as I said it might have an effect if you happen to print close to your printers max volumetric flow but no default print profile will do that

and I am not even totally use it will effect that

[brisk moth]

Depends on the print.

Some models or slicings will benefit a lot more from high acceleration than others

Think of driving down two otherwise identical roads, but one has stop signs and the other doesn't. It's the same length, but one you are going to traverse faster than the other, and how quickly you are willing to accelerate is going to have more of an effect on the one with stop signs Vs the one without

[formal cloak]

I don't understand how acceleration works, so I usually leave it be

Also, I found an Australian printer
https://youtu.be/mTIwNMhFvOU

[slender oasis]

funny enough most 3d printers actually work just fine upside down

[formal cloak]

Resin printers won't 🙃

[slender oasis]

lol, guess not

fdm printers are fine with it for the most part

[tight river]

The rest doesn't care about their orientation

[slender oasis]

if you can convince it to stay in the tray

but I am sure it could be flipped if the unit was fully submergd. but there really wouldnt be much of a point to that

and of course SLS would have the same problem but that one couldnt be submerged

[tight river]

I'm imagining some sort of weird huge ass centrifuge with a resin printer in it

[slender oasis]

for zero g resin printing

actually problems they need to solve for this. as printing in space is going to be important

but fdm should work ok in micro grav

I remember they recently did some 3d printing on the space sation but dont know what they used

[tight river]

FDM was already done, they even did metal printing last year

[slender oasis]

actually FDM would work amazing in zero g, no problems with over hangs and bridging

wonder how they did metal. SLS seems like it would be a nightmare and huge risk on a space ship or station. last thing you would want is fine metal powders floating around in an o2 rich atmosphere

[tight river]

https://www.esa.int/Science_Exploration/Human_and_Robotic_Exploration/ESA_launches_first_metal_3D_printer_to_ISS

[slender oasis]

ah its a wire machine

basically FDM but with a welder

[tight river]

I mean, if you need a spare part fast, this looks like a good solution

[slender oasis]

think there profile could use some tuning...

[tight river]

I've seen worse first prints

[elder linden]

Considering it probably has like a couple hundred design constraints to even be allowed to go to space that's not bad

[slender oasis]

when its time to remove the print from the build plate and you have to pull out the angle grinder

[tight river]

gotta have good bed adhesion in zero g

[slender oasis]

I dont think it gets better then literally welded to the bed. thinking that might be too good

intigrate a bandsaw into the printer aligned with the build plate to remove parts

[tight river]

or print in place, this should work outside of the ISS, right?

[slender oasis]

seen some people on youtube trying to make them and one of the newer rocket companies uses this method to print fuel tanks

[tight river]

I remember seeing a video on metal printing the engine shrouds with integrated cooling lines

[slender oasis]

yeah, those I think are done with SLS

[tight river]

really minimizing the amount of parts of a rocket engine

[slender oasis]

have you seen any of the vidoes on how the cooling channels in the F1 engines on the Sat 5 were done?

[tight river]

No? F1 as in Formula 1?

[slender oasis]

no, the big rockets that took us to the moon

[tight river]

oh the saturn 5😂

I have the lego model sitting behind me

[slender oasis]

hand welding all those tiny little channels in was so pure madness

[brisk moth]

those arent gravity related issues, so I dont see how being in zero or microgravity would help.

[slender oasis]

of course they are gravity releated. when the plastic is still soft it droops under its own weight

[brisk moth]

sortve, but its mostly about the nozzle/extrusion system pushing it out with kilograms of force

[slender oasis]

now in zero g they might have other problems. currling might be worse

[brisk moth]

and in my experience overhangs tend to curl up.. .yanno, against gravity

[slender oasis]

if that was the case you wouldnt be able to print bridges at all

yes they curl up, but what they are really doing is curling back in the direction of the cooler section

[brisk moth]

a bridge is you pushing out a rope while dragging the end of it

[slender oasis]

that tends to be up because there is nothing up to stop it

[brisk moth]

fdm printers largely dont care about printer orientation. has very little effect on their operation and print quality

[slender oasis]

overhanges are a problem because of gravity same with bridging. turning a printer upside down only has the effect of changing what direction they will distort in. in micro gravity they wont have a direction to care about.

[brisk moth]

Overhangs are a problem because you are trying to push hot plastic against nothing

[slender oasis]

against nothing isnt an overhange, its a bridge

[brisk moth]

It's also an overhang

[slender oasis]

orjust printing no nothing

I get what your saying and yes there is some truth to that BUT gravity is still important in this.

[brisk moth]

Marginally. Barely

[elder linden]

god I remember that

"we need absolute precision on this, and we can only do it by hand"

[tight river]

It was such an intricate machine we can't build one today

[elder linden]

my absolute favourite tech of that period is the rope core memory modules though

[formal cloak]

There's 1 thing I still don't understand, my Kobra S1 has the nozzle at 230c but prints absolutely fine, actually it looks pretty good for an FDM print.
But my Ender 3 has to be at 200c to not string and it still looks very mediocre.

Like how can the Kobra S1 be absolutely fine at a much higher temp?

[brisk moth]

its not just about temperature. nevermind that the temperature sensors they use can have a wide range of precision

[formal cloak]

But 30c is huge though.

[brisk moth]

agreed. 5-10c variance is much more common.

that said, they have completely different hotend and extruder designs. this has an effect on things like the retraction settings and temperature needed to not string

[formal cloak]

Or my Ender 3 is just shite 🤣

[slender oasis]

230 for PLA?

that is rather high

for high speed printing its often a good idea to crank the temp a bit toward the higher end but generally for PLA 220 is about as high as you want to go

[brisk moth]

I hadnt even thought about the numbers. 230 is really high for pla

[mossy urchin]

it could be that I'm just having a really bad day and the stars were in absolute misalignment (lol) but can some of you give me some pointers what went wrong here?

I mean... at least the surface finish and text came out nice (which is why I printed it in this orientation in the first place)

... BUT 2 Support failures and then the support material didnt come loose while the layer adhesion itself was pretty crap!?

(first one in first layer after like 6h, second one came loose in multiple places from a flat object surface)

https://discord.com/channels/222052888531173386/1400531392894472242

[formal cloak]

It's the PLA profile I get for PLA Silk in OrcaSlicer

[humble terrace]

That... might actually allow faster layer times. Quick, before Stratasys hears it and files for a patent!

[brisk moth]

Oh, silk. Yeah that needs more temperature

[slender oasis]

silk isnt actually pure pla its got tpu in it

[mossy urchin]

Wanna announce great success
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1400531392894472242/1401896182539747389/IMG_20250804_0911554373.jpg?ex=6891f10f&is=68909f8f&hm=00a047ce0febaa7eafe4e1331d1957fa4a94fb1055cf01782f87a926f6ca7005&=

Back edge of the face plate not too clean but works and tolerance is exactly right for the sliding rails

[tight river]

Opinion of the day: Honeycomb patterns in models look nice and are probably pretty strong, but they take freaking forever to print

[brisk moth]

I modelled a honeycomb in something. pita to print (was having overall adhesion issues) and fusion absolutely hated me. looked great though

[tight river]

Oh it looks great

[brisk moth]

in fairness, I think fusion hated me because I was using pattern

[tight river]

Did you make a sacrifice recently?

[brisk moth]

this was during covid. brought my work pc home with me (was a tiny pc) and wanted to stick it on the side of my desk. modelled up a holster for it. massively overdesigned the thing 😆

still on the side of that desk, not sure its ever coming off cleanly (screws and too much double sided tape)

funnily enough that desk now houses my 3d printer

[tight river]

Haha. I printed a Vesa mount for a tiny pc yesterday

One part mounts to the pc, the other to something else e.g. a monitor. It just slides in

There's also fancy version with locking latches and all but it's just going in a patch cabinet

Also i just noticed, we beat the #1050573453503242241 in message quantity

[brisk moth]

theres been too much 3dp chat in the car chat

[tight river]

Currently printing some angled clamp shoes, they're all skeletonised with honeycomb so they'll take 3.5 hours

[tight river]

A whole 11 messages😝

[brisk moth]

its not the first time 😆
though honestly 3dp fits pretty well with cars (maintenance and modification)

[tight river]

Unless it's a Honda

[brisk moth]

were they the ones that sent a bunch of takedowns to thingiverse/etc about modeled replacement parts?

[tight river]

yup, they pretty much wanted ALL car parts that would even remotely fit a Honda taken down

So pretty much all car parts

[slender oasis]

I am fairly sure that honeycomb is the most time intensive infill by far

its very strong in compression if you need that and yeah it looks nifty

but worth remembering its only strong in compression on that single axis. from the sides its kinda weak

[tight river]

Oh i wasn't talking about infill

For infill, I'm a fan of tri-hexagon

[brisk moth]

for infill it largely doesnt matter what you use

[tight river]

Nope, wall count matters

[brisk moth]

infill is largely just a top surface and internal overhang support

[slender oasis]

that is an over simplifcation. there are many times when infill very much matters

esspecially in the compressive str of a part

say you want to print a desk leg extension. you need your desk to be 30mm higher up to be comfortable with your chair. you might design and print something like this.

in this print your infill will be critically important for the compressive str of the part.

otherwise you are working with top layers that are fully in suspension to transfer the downward force into the walls

it will fail if you dont use a high compressive str infill with a resonably high percentage

you could design it differently to make better use of walls for str, adding a hole through the center. for example, doing weird tricks to force internal walls. but its easier to just select honeycomb infill and send it

well I would still probably add a hole in the center to give a center wall

when designing for 3d printing and when considering what infill to use and how much you have to think about what forces the part will be under and how those forces will be transmited

this is an example I have actually used, I made leg extensions for my desk and had to work that out because my desk has 4 legs and about 400lbs worth of shit on it

[tight river]

I think most slicers are now capable of handling internal walls unless specified otherwise

[mossy urchin]

Well, anything prusa based should - orca and bambu have a setting for internal wall thickness

[proper cargo]

Hey I’m feeling like a special kind of stupid, I’ve been having an issue for the last few months where I need to disassemble my extruder assembly 3-5 times just to get a print not to fail where my extruder jams. This is true for me across different printers (Bambu p1s and Ender 5) with varying filaments, temp and speed settings, as well as with different slicers (Bambu and Creality). Does anyone have any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong, I’m kinda hitting a wall.

[tight river]

That's an interesting problem. Do they have a lot of hours on them?

[slender oasis]

on the p1s, are you using the default profiles and the correct ones for the filament you are using?

my first thought is you are changing some setting as a matter of course that you think should be changed but it shouldnt.

its hard to even guess what they could be

[mossy urchin]

What kind of jam - melted and everywhere or just stuck and gears not turning?

Does it happen during multi-filament prints?

[tight river]

My first thought was a worn extruder gear, but they'd probably have spotted that during disassembly

[mossy urchin]

Should've at least

My guess is that it's multi-filament with different melting temperatures - cause that happened to me and for some reason bambu has a pretty huge oversight there

Need more details tho.
Can't see a pattern on a wall if all you've got is a birds-eye view

[mossy urchin]

I really seem to have a problem with bed adhesion

...great...

[tight river]

Hmm spaghet

Any clue to what is the cause?

[mossy urchin]

Not really.
Have recently cleaned it with with dish soap, used a gluestick on a quarter in the print before

Print before also failed by lifting off the bed.

[tight river]

Sharp corners on the print?

[mossy urchin]

This is ASA - bed temp 100°C

[tight river]

Ah, i havent got experience with ASA

[mossy urchin]

Brim always seems to lift up kinda

Should I just say "hotter bed"?

[tight river]

Cooling is off?

[mossy urchin]

Just the regular amount from bambus print profile

[tight river]

Hmm, I'd say they know what they're doing so that should be fine

[mossy urchin]

I think the initial bed temp is higher

It always comes off really easily after the print (basically only suctioned to the bed) so I suspect this material (and the fact that it's printed at 250) makes me think lowering the bed temp during printing is not ideal 🤔

[tight river]

Worth a try

[formal cloak]

Have you tried painter's tape?

[mossy urchin]

Not yet, no.

You mean as a printing surface or for applying glue?

[tight river]

The printing surface

It works quite well but needs reapplying pretty often

no clue how it holds up to 100 C

[formal cloak]

I use on my Ender the blue painters tape, it works pretty well with PLA but like Dutchman said, no clue how it holds up when it reaches 100°C, it's pretty cheap so nothing bad when it burns.

[mossy urchin]

Hmm I see.
I think I'll try increasing bed temp first (or maintaining it at a constant level)

Actually I have a timelapse of it happening

[mossy urchin]

Multiple times:

[main minnow]

First major print of the ODST cosplay.

Scaling back what parts will be printed and going back to the bulk of the armor being foam

But that just means all I have to print is the grenades and the backpack

(Files from the galactic armory)

[mossy urchin]

Thats.... a cylinder? :D

[main minnow]

it is indeed a cylinder

one with twist tops

snack container for cons

[slender oasis]

first problem, your using tree supports

using tree supports in a place that dosnt need them. they are the most unreliable support type. esspecially on high warpage filaments like ABS. that is a large flat area you are supporting, there is no reason to use trees there, they take longer to print then traditional support for areas like that

[mossy urchin]

Hmm I see that's a huge hint

Tho it shouldn't have delaminated anyways

[slender oasis]

no, you have some bed adhesion problems for sure and I cant really say why. I dont know enough about ABS printing

ABS warps quite badly I do know that and that causes it to try and pull up on the ends away from the bed. but I wouldnt think it would be quite that bad

you are printing with the door closed right?

[mossy urchin]

Uhh yea

Do people print with open doors?? XD

[slender oasis]

not for warp prone filaments. door should only really be open for PLA and maybe PETG

well some enclosed printers need to have the door open to print PLA, otherwise they heat creep. I dont know if the bambus have that problem or not

I am guessing they dont

[mossy urchin]

Yeah don't think so. The PLA never unstuck afaik

[humble terrace]

I've had infrequent heat creep on the P1S with PLA. I just wedge something in the top glass to open it a 1/4 inch or so.

[mossy urchin]

Ok, will keep that in mind if my PLA prints come out wonly! Thx :)

[mossy urchin]

Glue seems to have helped but it has already warped up at layer 100 or so
🤔

[tight river]

No brim?

Corners this sharp I'd use a brim

[warm tinsel]

had this kind of problem as well. me thinks it's a problem with the cool-air-flow, as the fan is at the left and the warping always is on the far right. maybe change the direction the parts are laid out. and clean your buildplate every other print

[slender oasis]

dosnt ABS coat everything in a layer of nasty from the horrible fumes it releases? wonder if that means you need to clean the build plate after every use with it.

[formal cloak]

Imagine people having multiple printers printing in ABS

[slender oasis]

I cant even stand sanding or filing ABS a little bit for modifying injection molded parts. the smell is so horrible to me

printing it seems like pure insanity

I think ABS printing will always be out of reach for me. when I get a printer that can do higher temps I will skip ABS/ASA and go straight to PA or PC for high temp plastics

[formal cloak]

I have asthma and can't smell, so ABS is a danger to me because I can't smell when it gets too bad.
So I die before smelling the bad toxic air coming from it.

[slender oasis]

for me its the other way around, I have hyper sensitive sense of smell and lack the sensory filtering most people have (autism problem) smells like that are just so bad I cant stand to be around them, send me running for the hills to get away. bit like you and the taste of CA glue I guess

the smell of ABS is similar to the smell of fish and that is another one I can handle

[mossy urchin]

This is ASA, which is only about half as smelly as abs. Turns out build plate temp already is at max so I guess my options are lower cooling and painters tape 🤔

[mossy urchin]

In this case not - I printed via the phone app which only has the option to deselect objects, nothing else...

[tight river]

Aah, sounds like a good suggestion for the developers

[slender oasis]

I doubt painters tape is the right choice. wasnt that a thing for PLA back before heated beds?

[tight river]

It still works🤷‍♂️

[slender oasis]

asa and abs warps, its just the nature of those filaments. because of that I think brims are required anytime the contact area is small or it has sharp corners

[slender oasis]

the adhesive on painters tape is not going to stay stuck with the bed heater running at 90-100c. or I would be shocked if it did. you need that heat to reduce warping

unless painters tape uses silicone adhesive like Kapton does

[tight river]

Apparently there are some tapes that can handle it, but yeah. they use a different adhesive

[formal cloak]

Did you steal my sense of smell

[slender oasis]

if I did you can have it back because having a super sense of smell sucks!

esspecially when every time I try and buy "unsented" soaps and deoderants and such they all freaking lie! they all are very much sented and it makes me sick

[formal cloak]

Not smelling shit but tasting everyone sucks too, purfume taste extremely chemical

[slender oasis]

parfume is similar to me. I cant smell the fragrence its suposed to be mimicing over all the horrible chemicals

they often have aldahydes in them and anything with those that is all I smell its so strong it covers everything else up

[formal cloak]

When you can't smell, there's no fragrance🤣

[mossy urchin]

A heated chamber probably also helps 🤔
I might try to isolate it a little (or at least close off the holes that leak smells and heat)

Maybe I'll add a relay to the part cooling fan circuit that powers and external heating element...

[slender oasis]

yes that is exactly the reason to have a heated chamber but from what I understand you really shouldnt need a full heated chamber for most abs/asa parts

[mossy urchin]

Controlled ambient temp surely helps tho - probably could also enable skirts.
I have a thermal camera so I'll probably set up a test print where I can study what happens

[proper cargo]

If you’re still having issues, ABS and ASA are very susceptible to absorbing moisture which causes problems during additive manufacturing processes. If you’re not already drying the filament right before using it you could try 5 hours at 85C (a common recommendation I’ve seen for ASA).

[mossy urchin]

ohh trust me, my filament is dry

excessive use of reactivatable indicator silica in airtight transparent buckets and AMS sensor permanently shows about 7-10% humidity :)

Man FUCK

WHY

This is 10 bucks worth of filament ._.

[mossy urchin]

why did it bend up tho ._.
is it really the contraction while cooling?
happened right after the first couple top surfaces were put down

weirdly also happened on the purge tower

just went non-linear on me

[formal cloak]

Usually because sudden temperature changes

Like a breeze into the room can cause that to happen

[mossy urchin]

Hmmm the print had paused for magnet insertion but that was a few layers below that point.
I was printing with the windows open but the printer has an enclosed chamber

Also was pretty warm (guess 45-50C airtemp) when it was done done

[humble terrace]

Let it finish, glue the pieces together with a thin ca glue?

I'm guessing spare nozzle tray?

[mossy urchin]

Yes - accessory/replacement parts box

Other half worked great (except of the magnet insertion pauses which were offset by 8 layers, grrr to the designer) and some of the magnet hole was slightly to thin for my magnets so the nozzle kinda scraped over two :/

[slender oasis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yN09iY9OXlc

[elder linden]

I may have snickered at that

[slender oasis]

you cant avoid the jokes when it comes to polypropylene

I want to get a spool and see what i can do with it.

[mossy urchin]

Interesting but it seems VERY fiddly.

Tho its properties are also very rewarding

[slender oasis]

its one of the most impact resistant plastics you can print as well

there is a reason PP is used for external car body parts like bumper covers and such

I am thinking it could be super useful in RC. its also one of the lightest plastics you can print. not as light as the foaming plastics of course but of the solid ones its very light. why its often sold on 900g spools instead of 1kg, its still the same length of filament

[tight river]

has to restrain himself from making a joke about PP being impact resistant

[slender oasis]

when it comes to PP, its hard... to resist the jokes

[slim sandal]

First print now to make some of the tools and utility items for the printer

[main minnow]

Well thats just cruel (the part on top was actually the bottom. I guess at some point early on it fucked up)

[humble terrace]

Sand off a few layers, good enough! Alternatively, sand off a few layers, reprint first few layers (edit!) add glue, good enough! (I've done the latter)

[main minnow]

Yeaaaahhh I may as well just reprint the whole thing anyways and use that as a dunce canister

(IE yeet it at the one being stupid)

Its for an ODST cosplay

The failed one may get sacrificed to tbe local crackheads (the infantry)

[formal cloak]

I am thinking on getting a Centauri just for TPU printing

Also, this looks interesting
https://www.snapmaker.com/en-EU/snapmaker-u1

[slim sandal]

I wonder if the carbon could do PP given the right bed treatments

[mossy urchin]

anyone of you tinkerers know stuff about maglev?
I've seen a couple kits but they seem to be ludicrously expensive...

I wanna print this (and bambu sells a kit with power transmission for LEDs) but I also kinda wanna have multiple top parts to choose from and I can't find the puck itself or the electronics with the choosable LED color anywhere

[slender oasis]

QIDI's new pinter is getting anounced tomorrow I think

updated version of the Q1, the Q2. actually supports the multi material thing they have. has some interesting stats from what has been released so far. 375c extruder is really high temp, also 120 on the bed and 65 on the active chamber heater. sounds like it will be a PA and PC beast

https://ca.qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2

its funny, entry level printers are now able to print engineering filaments instead of just PLA/PETG/TPU

[slim sandal]

I wonder where they will have you mount the multi material systme that elgo is making for the carbon

[slender oasis]

dont know, there has been some speculation on that because the current filament path on the carbon does not seem ideal for it

[slim sandal]

I am suspectiont that it will mount on top and drop down the center with added venting as you already need to remove the top for low temp work

[slender oasis]

actually the filament path on the carbon is its biggest problem, it apperently tries to turn too sharp at the extruder and is prone to problems. a few recommended fixes out there for it

[slim sandal]

yep

the newer ones (like mine) are suposed to be better but it is still likely to be an issue

the head is way to close to the top there is a reason that one of the first non OEM printer adons is a lift for the lid

if limited to the 1kg spools you could fit 6 up top all feeding into the center of the printer and it should give the feed the roome it needs and potentialy add some needed aditional venting

[slim sandal]

this is the Idea

looking at the construction the top bezel can be removed (and is plastick un like the main body) so it might be a more invasive upgrade (that or it will mount to the side)

[slender oasis]

lifting the top like that or just taking off the top isnt the best idea of printing high warp filaments. I mean it kinda gets rid of the entire point of the enclosure

oh, I see what you mean

[formal cloak]

I am curious if the Centauri AMS will have a heating element

[slim sandal]

yah the Idea is that it will replace the top instead and feed through the center adding some cooling/vent fans.

[timid isle]

Anyone in the group have, or know someone who has a 3d resin printer(preferably somewhere nearby-ish in my area of WI?)
I need resin to get the detail I need for custom Warhammer 40k figures(files in gcode format, good to go, just need a printer) I'll send the files, pay for postage and clean them up myself

[mossy urchin]

I think I'd recommend professional companies at that point.
No real point in someone privately printing, accepting payment and therefore reliability and then sending over potentially harmful (if handled incorrectly) substances

[timid isle]

You know of any?

[slender oasis]

I dont know if companies like send cut send or pcb way will do copyrighted char like 40k stuff

[mossy urchin]

I don't see why not - it's a single unit after all

[brisk moth]

i'm not entirely sure many/any of them care

[mossy urchin]

If you were to order an entire 100p series of high-value figurines and re-sell them, someone else might care, but not the service.
They wave any liability about the content to the customer

[dim gulch]

Levitexa is the company I could find to get maglev bases from

[mossy urchin]

Ohh thx for still replying - at those prices I'm rather looking for something with integrated wireless power tho

They seem fine as a base for just models, I'm looking to integrate into glowing 3D-Print tho

[formal cloak]

Curiosity, how elastic is TPU?

[brisk moth]

Depends on the rating. Most fdm printable ones will have a bit of stretch, but too much and they stop being probable

[formal cloak]

Lets say the TPU thing is like 40 cm long, how far on average would that be able to stretch?

[brisk moth]

Dunno. Datasheet for the tpu might have useful information, or looking up the tpu rating (typically the A or D rating, they mean different things) and see if that has anything useful

[formal cloak]

Ah okay, because I might need very long elastic strings for my next cosplay suit

And springs tend to loose their tension too fast if they are stretched too far

[brisk moth]

Buy them from your local hobby or sewing store?

[formal cloak]

They only have ones up to 20 cm, I already checked

I might just test with some Creality TPU, weave it and see how far it'll stretch

[tight river]

You can get elastic cord on spools

We just ordered a bunch for scouts

I do have some elastic filament as well, it's pretty stretchy

Can't remember the name and I'm not at home at the moment

[formal cloak]

Which did you order?

Because I want to make fake elastic muscles because my next cosplay suit will have "fake joints" on the legs, so I want something that can support me for the day.

[tight river]

I'll send the name when i get home

[formal cloak]

Aye, thanks

[mossy urchin]

If you want stretch, you're probably better off using solid-state spring forms in your prints, arent you?

[tight river]

This stuff stretches like a third of it's original size easily

By eSun

[formal cloak]

Awesome, thanks, I am gonna order a roll

And see if it is good enough for me

[tight river]

Np

[slender oasis]

the 95A tpu I have tried has not been eleastic at all, its flexible plastic not an elastomer. if I take a strand of the filament I can stretch it maybe 1/10th its length and after that it go's into plastic deformation and wont spring back

[tight river]

I think this is still TPU but unsure what grade

Haven't used it a whole lot as you can see

[brisk moth]

tpe 83A I think 🤔

no, that has a printing temp of 220-250

or they have changed the recommendeds for it

[mossy urchin]

2 questions: HOW!? and WHYYY

[formal cloak]

Yesn't

[formal cloak]

I think 3D printers are starting to rebel?
Just found this on Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/FPn10aEjlr

[viscid violet]

Posting race photos in https://discord.com/channels/222052888531173386/1398377299845578983

[edgy marten]

boat

[brisk moth]

boat

[formal cloak]

taob

[slim sandal]

that better not be the cursed Iowa refit

[hoary siren]

Christ a place for people like me

[tropic wasp]

Didn't know we had this channel lol
But fuck it here's a thing
Couldn't find any phone cases for my phone that had a sliding card slot on the back like my old phone did, so made it instead lol

[hoary siren]

Made out of TPU ?

[tropic wasp]

There was a lot of fine-tuning involved and I used a whole bunch of filament, thankfully I had this silk pla which SUCKS and didn't work for what I wanted so I could just use that as fodder for design testing

[tropic wasp]

Nope, just pla

[hoary siren]

oh PLA

You should try TPU for phone cases

[tropic wasp]

I don't need a phone case for drop protection, I'm very good with my phones, it's purely for a card holder lol

[hoary siren]

aaah I see

[tropic wasp]

I have got some tpu, keep meaning to try it out

Not sure how I'd get it to cooperate with the pla tho since afaik they don't stick well, so putting my little symbol on there might be harder

I considered designing the case in three parts instead of two, tpu underlayer, pla shell, which would replicate my old phone's case closer, but I'm not very good at designing things so I didn't

[hoary siren]

Afaik TPU and PLA don't stick together, but that's nothing, a bit of cyanoacrylate can solve it

[tropic wasp]

idek what that is

[hoary siren]

Contact glue ?

I think

I don't how you call it where you live...

[tropic wasp]

I'd probably just call it glue

[hoary siren]

Lmao

[tropic wasp]

I am decidedly not someone with any real knowledge

I just make things and see what happens

[brisk moth]

CA glue, aka Superglue

[slender oasis]

you can design interlocking sections to make a multi material print like that work even if the 2 filaments dont have good adhesion to eachother. also I think TPU and PETG might stick together? I know one of the common filaments will stick ok-ish to TPU but I dont remember what one.

but even if it does stick ok its better to do some kind of mechanical connection in the design to make sure they dont fall out eventually

how it would work for a shape like that design you have in the above image is you would have a layer or too of the logo bit that sticks out around the edges and then gets printed over with the upper layers locking it in place

that or you just get a few colors of TPU and make the whole thing TPU...

[tropic wasp]

bambu don't do glow-in-the-dark tpu

yes, I'm weirdly specific about making those blue bits glow in the dark lol

big one looks better tho

[slender oasis]

and you will only use bambu fillament?

you do know this isnt like ink carts, you can use what ever brand of filament you want

[tropic wasp]

It's mostly because I'm lazy

I like the fact they auto-configure when I slot them in

[hoary siren]

Do you live in Europe ?

Cause 3DJake does Glow in dark filament and gives out pre curated parameters for Bambu printers

wait no

you said TPU

[tight river]

Hey, that's where i got my elegoo

[humble terrace]

FWIW, I printed a 98A TPU on my P1S, just had to use the external feed to bypass the AMS.

And the generic filament profiles that are built into the slicers seem to work just fine, they're dialed in pretty well.

I've printed mostly Inland filaments (Microcenter), but am starting to use Polar Filaments.

[slender oasis]

take it you mean 98A

[humble terrace]

Yes!

Derp.
I also have some 60D, but haven't tried it yet. Will supposedly work through the AMS.

[slender oasis]

yeah but at 60D its not an elastomer anymore, I mean 95A is barelly. the 60 and 70D TPU is just flexible plastic

[edgy marten]

dont worry...its worse!!!

it was from a ship building game where there was an event to make a "hybrid ship"... so I made a Japanese destroyer hybrid

here is the original ship I made

[slender oasis]

and what is going to take off from a flight deck half the length of a ww2 destroyer? RC planes I guess

[tight river]

Drones

[slim sandal]

at least its not Iowa hmm should find a good USS AZ model

[slender oasis]

I want a good model of one of the standard battleships that I can print. and I mean good, like high detail as good as any model kit not some low detail print the whole thing at once kind of deal

[edgy marten]

tank (tracks)

[formal cloak]

That tracks

[edgy marten]

it sure does

[tight river]

do they work?

[edgy marten]

Uh

Technically yes

Actually they don’t stay together well, don’t move well and rhe wheels aren’t locked onto the tank and fall off really easily

[tight river]

So yes but no

My jacket and bag were getting all dirty when i rode my bike, because the mudguard was missing, so i printed a new one

[formal cloak]

Typical Netherlands where people print stuff for their Bicycle

[tight river]

Of course

Can confirm it works

It is PLA so no clue how it will hold up, I'll print a more durable one should this one fail

[brisk moth]

I printed a flashlight holder for my bike. Pla, some random bolts, and some slices of dead inner tube

I had intended to use "better" plastic, but only had enough for the failed test prints

[tight river]

I couldn't be bothered to change the filaments. This is what was on there and the colour suits the rest of the bike

[humble terrace]

Nice! I may end up needing to print some bits to make fenders and/or mudguards for the front wheels on my trike.

[humble terrace]

FWIW, I've had pretty decent luck with ASA for some prints that live full time in a car.

[tight river]

I haven't tried ASA yet, i really should

[mossy urchin]

It's great for stuff in cars but it warps horribly without closely controlled air-temps while printing

[mossy urchin]

I've come to the conclusion that I need to disable the part fan while printing asa and that I should give the chamber some time to heat up after opening the door

[humble terrace]

I haven't used a heated chamber, but I have used a well sealed chamber to great success.

[tight river]

Ah, sounds like my non enclosed printer in a drafty garage will do fine😝

[brisk moth]

ive shoved a cardboard box over my printer before 😆

[hoary siren]

Finally a brush holder

[tight river]

That's a cool design

[hoary siren]

Fuckin love it

[tight river]

I'm still looking for a glass door refrigerator as an enclosure

If it can keep the heat out, it can keep the heat in, right?

[brisk moth]

it doesnt take much for a 3d printer enclosure. you may find a fridge too sealed/insulating though

[tight river]

I plan to cut some ventilation in it so i can regulate the heat

my garage isnt very insulated and thus gets quite chilly in the winter, which makes it hard to print

[hoary siren]

https://www.amazon.fr/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-hydroponique-Obeservation-dintérieur/dp/B01DXYM98K?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3GGO0YO0EQFZV

Try this

Mylar enclosure

[tight river]

Yeah i've seen people use grow tents, not a big fan of them personally

[hoary siren]

Frankly, they are awesome

I've seen people print nylon flawlessly in those

[tight river]

It's gonna be in my garage, i want something that can take a hit if i'm tinkering

[hoary siren]

Hm

I see, but you can still reinforce it with cheap metal bars

Birdcage style

[brisk moth]

... get a bird cage, and tape cardboard over it!

[hoary siren]

I would still go for a fabric enclosure

[tight river]

That's fair, it works for most people

I prefer sturdy

Found someone selling an old defective medical fridge, all stainless. would fit both my printers with room to spare for filament and stuff🤔

Looks cool too

[brisk moth]

hmm. another option could be a display fridge (ie from a store), though I imagine they go for a solid amount even when not working as fridges

[tight river]

yeah that's what i was searching for

restaurant/store fridges

But you're right, there's companies buying those to repair/refurbish them

[edgy marten]

Skirts and tracks 👍

[formal cloak]

And does it still track?

[edgy marten]

I mean

Just about

In the loosest definition

It does track

[brisk moth]

Nice! What is it? I don't recognize the hull

[edgy marten]

Custom thing I made

[mossy urchin]

... designed a thing (started a while ago, today I decided to finish it)
left image is what I've already printed.
Right image is what I wanted it to look like....

GAHT DAMNIT

...maybe the part will work anyways....

The hole is in the right place but the surrounding tube wasn't coincident-ed to the hole center....

[slender oasis]

its an interesting thing... what is it?

[tight river]

Looks like some sort of mounting adapter?

[mossy urchin]

Ohh yeah, it's a replacement part for my oscillating ventilator.
Basically the up-down hinge broke off of the left-right hinge so I designed the part after the broken one

The pics I posted have the up-down hinge removed as I need to feed a cable through it in the middle and can't take off either end of it.

The flat end here also comes off and helps with locking the slide-in in place

[mossy urchin]

Anyone got a suggestion on how to split this cross apart for printing?
It's basically gonna be a brace so I can put a laundry basket on top of my water tank so the load is gonna be pushing into the base circle.
the dovetails are for circular cross-braces between the arms (second screenshot).
Everything translucent is the pipes exclusion zone.

I should note: my printvol is 25x25x25cm (P1S)

AND - similar importantly - should I add honeycomb like your see here or just have it be infill?

[slim sandal]

how large is the OD of the cross?

[humble terrace]

That's not a gas water heater, is it?

And how are the temperatures on top?

[slim sandal]

it is not there is no vent

if anything it is an electric one

[mossy urchin]

It's just an insulated warm water tank. Hot water in one pipe, cold water in the other and hot/mixed out the third.
Gonna usa ASA anyways so heat is not a concern.

The OD of the tank is 65CM

(and the cross is wrapping around that)

Used a 3D scan for the rough locations of the pipes

(that scan wasn't even that great, the other tries I did were even able to accurately track the cable coming off the back)

[slim sandal]

split into each vane and have one longer as the mount point then use the circular parts as a to hold it together (split the inner circle ans use it to help mount the vanes to each other

[mossy urchin]

Not exactly sure what you mean apar from splitting into arms.
Could you maybe MS Paint the "cuts" for me?

[slim sandal]

lines show "cuts"

added a dove joint for glueless assemby

[mossy urchin]

Ahhh I see, lemme look if the distanced fit really quick

Soooo, the maximum dimension I can fit in the printer DIAGONALLY is 35.5cm (probably 30 if you account for the part thickness)

The length from the center to the outermost edge is 34.4cm - I don't think it's gonna fit.

[slim sandal]

you might have to nix the center then and enlarge the smaller ring to hold to to the main boddy of the vains

[mossy urchin]

How could I print the center squirkle separately from the rest but still have it be a strong connection?

Thinking... do I actually need the center?

[slim sandal]

no

you need the small ring for stabilty though

look at a gas burner grate for ideas

[mossy urchin]

Yeah I need something at least so it doesn't "cave in" in the middle

[slim sandal]

how weak is your basket then

if you give me a side view I could modife the center

[mossy urchin]

Well no - I am just assuming that for some (yet unknown) reason there's gonna be a higher load in the center

I think I got it - hang on

[slim sandal]

make the center a + instead of just flat

that is 25cm for the OD of the internal part

stuff is in inches cause I know them better

that should also pull the out side vanes in under load increasing strenght

center would be a single piece and the the other veains much smaller

[mossy urchin]

I think this might work - pringing the center separately and just putting 2 filament pieces per connection

Something that sticks in from the inner surfaces (like the + you suggested) would probably also work pretty well haha, why didn't I think of that

[slim sandal]

that would work and have more stability than mine

only issue is that type of joint wants precision to work but should be do able (if needed sand paper exists)

I would increase the size of that part so the tab is only stabilizing the joint but that is not needed (mortis tenon joints are stupid strong in wood working)

[mossy urchin]

This is never gonna rattle apart

Of course I'll put in .2mm as sliding tolerance between the joints - worked great for me so far

[slim sandal]

should work

[mossy urchin]

Image is getting a little crowded but that thing well not come apart unplanned

There's still the question wether I should pot the honeycomb there myself or just let the infill handle it.
Both in regards of strength and filament usage

[slim sandal]

IDK there

[mossy urchin]

... I think I'll try infill. Less surface for collecting dust after all...

[mossy urchin]

Yea auto-arrange, let's print it like that! :)

[mossy urchin]

Trying to reduce the material cost a little - ya think 2 inner walls are enough?
3% infill is still plenty I think...
this would come to about 15-20 buckaroos of filament - acceptable at that scale?

Ohh... uhhh... that aint gonna fit...
gonna need another joint int there haha

Yeah, 730g of ASA for everything BUT the large braces. Maybe I'll just leave those out and see how it goes.

[mossy urchin]

Sooooooo.... After some more adjustments, 1KG of ASA will be needed.
what's that really cheap brand of filament again?
Like - doesn't need to look nice, just needs to hold up to some heat and generally be printable.

Something around 15€/kg?
I guess Elegoo with their 10x1KG for 130 bucks is pretty close

Doesn't need to be all one color

[humble terrace]

I don't like crapping on other people's ideas, but this seems like a really good case for a small piece of plywood and some 2x6 scraps.

That said, this will certainly be a neat print, but it seems like a "if all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail" kind of thing

[mossy urchin]

I've also thought about using wood.
However I don't have the tools or capabilities to manufacture something even remotely in that shape haha

And I actually doubt that I can get anything close to that price if I look for a community workshop nearby that either has appropriate tools or a CNC I could huck that model into

And of cose, I wanna use ma freedee prinna!

[slender oasis]

what is the point in engineering your own solutions if you dont over engineer them?

I mean that is half the fun

lol but I will admit this might be going a bit over the top for a place to stick your laundry basket 😛

[slate river]

So... I got myself into 3D printing and after some research and comparisons I chose the Elegoo Cantauro Carbon for me.
And over the past week I have been working, modelling, designing and reworking a dice case for my D&D.
But the Top side is kind of blotchy.
I print currently with 99% standard settings of the elegoo slicing software.
The only part that I changed so far is the filling from grid at 15% density to honeycomb at 10%.
Since I am still at the test-stage of that project, I'd like to work that out, before I switch to colored filaments.
But I logically don't know what causes that and how I can fix that.

[tight river]

You could put ironing on, but i don't know how good that'll look with all the indents. It'll be smoother though

[slate river]

Is that a setting or do you mean using an actual Iron with a towel beneath that?

[formal cloak]

It's a setting, it makes the top look more "flat", works pretty well on my Kobra S1, but I use OrcaSlicer so I don't exactly know where your settings are

[slate river]

I have to look for that then.

[formal cloak]

In OrcaSlicer it's under the Support settings

[slate river]

I have to make my own Printsetting File anyway. So I can change the default movement from 45° to 0°/90° so I don't have to rotate my objects that 45°

[brisk moth]

Just be aware that enabling ironing will add an insane amount of print time to that top layer

[slender oasis]

yeah, only use ironing on parts like the ones above with large flat areas. if you try and use it on more complex prints it wont make a big difference and the additional time will add up to something insane

you can also try different top infil patterns, depending on the shape you can get better results with different ones.

Elegoo's current slicer is a rebranded Orca slicer and I am fairly sure Orca has the profiles for the elegoo printers in by default now so you can just switch over to the main Orca branch if you want, will be more up to date that way

otherwise those top layers look fairly normal for FDM printing

[formal cloak]

It's worth it 😅

[brisk moth]

it depends

for that? quite likely 😆

[slate river]

And for my final Version I would use the marble like Filament, so a smoother surface for that Part is prefered.

[formal cloak]

I use a circle sander or a belt sander depending on the print,

Just to get it smooth

[slate river]

I don't have either of those

[formal cloak]

Sanding paper?

[slate river]

I tried, but that one I had colored Off.
But I think I will have to get a grating tool

[formal cloak]

Coloured off?
I never heard of that with sanding paper

[slender oasis]

actually marble filament hides layer lines really well so it dosnt need stuff like that quite as much

sanding prints basically means you have to paint them. as the surface it gives ruins the color/looks

gives it a chalky look

I mean unless you want to run through all the grits and polish it up

but on PLA, thats a nightmare

I am a fan of painting my prints personally. I do allot of props and stuff

[slate river]

On one of my test prints, where I had to print it upside down, I tried sanding IT and you can still see a bit of orange from the sandpaper

[formal cloak]

Weird, maybe it's the sanding paper you use.
But have you tried to wash it afterwards?
Don't worry, plastic won't melt under water

[mossy urchin]

Indeed - it's the only place that is not the floor in that cramped drying room that could accompany a laundry basket tho

[mossy urchin]

In other news:

https://tenor.com/view/sacha-baron-cohen-great-success-yay-gif-4185058

[main minnow]

Well uh

I should have done a time-lapse of it but I didnt have it recording

Fuck

[formal cloak]

Welcome to the club

[humble terrace]

Looks like a lovely al-dente spaghetti. Serve with a light marinara, and moderate amounts of shame

[slender oasis]

spaghetti sucks but as long as your printer didnt try and make a meatball to go with it, its not so bad

(meatball as in blob of death on the hotend)

spaghetti and meatballs is a very sad day indeed

[mossy urchin]

Lemme guess, ABS?

[timid isle]

What was this supposed to be?

[tight river]

Some yarn

[main minnow]

40k imperial guard armor

[main minnow]

PLA

[mossy urchin]

Ohh dang, would not have guessed you could get such bad bed-adhesion with pla

[mossy urchin]

summoning the Gulag:
https://discord.com/channels/222052888531173386/1430470474114273365

[humble terrace]

Putting stuck print in place models into a freezer is a new trick I learned today. Worked well for a lot of them.

[molten pilot]

huh nice, that also works well for prints stuck on a glass bed

never thought of freeing up print in place parts tho

[tight river]

Bed adhesion so good it takes chunks of glass with it😂

[molten pilot]

lol

[tight river]

It can happen

[molten pilot]

yeah

[slender oasis]

that is why you dont print PETG on glass

I would love to know the reason for that crazy strong bond.

plastics being carbon based, carbon and silicon chem generally dosnt mix that well

[mossy urchin]

as far as I can tell from a quick google - people have issues with bed adhesion using petg on glass

so not sure what happened in your instance xD

[slender oasis]

its the other way around from what I understand, if you print PETG on glass it sticks so hard that the glass breaks when you try to remove it

[tight river]

Maybe the petg gets into the micro pores of the glass, similar to how they get teflon to stick to aluminium in non stick pans?

[mossy urchin]

Anyone else maybe have some input that hasn't been mentioned before?
https://discord.com/channels/222052888531173386/1430470474114273365

Currently in-print and trying PLA on ASA but still hoping for some more

[mossy urchin]

I'm tired :/

[formal cloak]

I know the feeling

[hoary siren]

Don't you have the spaggetti detection enabled ?

[slender oasis]

I know allot of people that have given up on ASA because of those problems. part of why I want nothing to do with it. I mean I could see dealing with that kind of nightmare for something like nylon but abs/asa? it stinks, its not strong, its brittle... like the only good thing about it is that it can handle high enough temps to be placed inside a car and it can be vapor smoothed.

[hoary siren]

I don't get why you say ABS/ASA is brittle

[mossy urchin]

P1 don't have the spaghet detect

At least I was able to stop it after only 5/10hrs

[mossy urchin]

So you say Nylon doesn't have those problems? XD
The stink is actually really subtle in comparison to other stuff.

at least it made for a good fail timelapse lol

at the end it's just an angry ball of fuzz

[slender oasis]

far as I know nylon dosnt stink. it does of course warp like crazy and you have to get it dry AF. my point is if I am going to print something that is a pain in the ass to print i wouldnt waste my time on ABS/ASA, I would skip to the good stuff

[slender oasis]

specifically it becomes brittle as it ages, I know ASA is suposed to be better about this. at least when it comes to UV enbrittlement but that is only part of why ABS turns into brittle trash that falls apart when you look at it. even ABS that is never exposed to light will do the same thing eventually

as I said I hate that plastic because of cheap plastic car parts made of ABS

using ABS instead of PVC is why i will never buy a GM car again

[mossy urchin]

Yeah, I'm mostly trying to print for hot environments.

[slender oasis]

I would assume the problem is from warping, warps as printing and pulls its self off the bed enough that nozzle collisions knock the print free?

there is always the throw money at it option and us a fiber filled filament to keep it from warping... would only do that if its something that wont be handled or can be painted

[humble terrace]

Lots of fairly tall things compared to their surface area on the build plate. Use a big brim?

[mossy urchin]

brim is already at 10mm - the PLA actually stuck pretty well, so it warped itself off the PLA lol
bed temp was constantly 55C.
The issue seems to be ONLY at the higher layers warping themselves apart, not in the temperature differential from chamber temp to bed temp 🤔
OR the chamber was cooler now because the bed wasn't as hot...

it should've been two big objects

[slender oasis]

best idea I have is to alter the design to be less warp prone. add in stiffening geometry and such

or print in smaller parts and glue

[humble terrace]

if they're warping themselves apart, does that mean nozzle temp isn't high enough for good adhesion? Did you bump temps down in an attempt to counteract the warping?

[slender oasis]

have you looked into getting a chamber heater?

[slender oasis]

any resin printer people here that can give me advice? I am thinking of finally getting one and its a choice between a Mars 4 or 5. (maybe a 4 Ultra) the 5 has more fancy features like auto leveling but like is leveling a resin printer even a problem? it looks stupid easy. the 4 has a much higher DPI screen...

[formal cloak]

Levelling is piss easy compared to FDM.

[slender oasis]

yeah my impression is you just loosen the plate and lower it all the way then tighten it.

[formal cloak]

I am thinking about getting the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max

[slender oasis]

what one do you have now?

I know Anycubic and Elegoo tend to be the big names in resin printers

[formal cloak]

I had a Mars 2 Pro

But not anymore

[slender oasis]

annoyingly elegoo's website seems to be slightly broken right now and has some kind of screwed up memory leak

leak might not be accurate, your ram floods away

[formal cloak]

Anycubic website is also broken, I had to look up the name through a local 3D printer store

[slim sandal]

how hard would this be to print in PLA and would it be strong enough to hold a 22" monitor (used in pairs with corner mounting dogbones)

dimentions are 6x6x3 and the legs are 3/8 wide the narrowest point at the top is also 3/8

[tight river]

Will it ever get warm? Because the then legs will bow

Also really depends on the monitor. I've held monitors that weighed barely anything and ones that felt like they made them with lead

[formal cloak]

PLA is pretty strong, especially PLA+

[slim sandal]

how good is 3D printer precision and is there any good prints for testing such

[tight river]

A test cube would give you an indication how precise your printer is

[slim sandal]

k Ill look for one or make one
now I need to export the final design from onshape

would this work
https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/1969455538811002880?printConfigId=1972113806310006784

[tight river]

Sure, any calibration print would probably work

[slim sandal]

grumble grumble
looks like I will need to wait untill the weekend to start as I need to futz with orka slicer input my printer

[humble terrace]

So, uh, CRTs literally used leaded glass.

[humble terrace]

More than adequate for a project like this. If a printer was off by an entire millimeter it would probably be considered terrible. If your proposed design were off by an mm you might not even notice.

[slender oasis]

you guys are forgetting that while PLA is strong and stiff it is also one of the more creep prone filaments. having the weight of a monitor on it with a design that will have spans in tension like that is exactly the kind of situation where creep matters. it will deform over time.

it will either need more support on the buttom or a lower creep material I would say

[formal cloak]

I think I am gonna get 2 Photon M7 Max printers and print my next Cosplay suit with it.

While FDM printers are cool, they're significantly slower and more prone to fail the print.

I have 2 Kobra S1.
Which I use for general printing 😅

[slender oasis]

some things just work better in resin, others better in FDM. if you can have both options then your set.

if I can get a resin printer for around 100 bucks I am going too. just not sure what one or if I should wait and see if there will be better deals closer to black frieday

right now I could get a used Mars 4 Ultra or an open box Mars 4 for around 130 dollars from Elegoo. I am less sure if I trust the used one.

I dont need a washing and curring station. washing station seems stupid to me, I have bucket. the curring station would be useful if it wasnt stupidly overpriced for what it is and I already have almost everything I need to make my own. I have a pair of very powerful UV lamps I use for UV resin work already, just need to buy a 10 dollar motorized turn table

[formal cloak]

Cosplay works better in Resin I think.
Especially when the suit I want to build is based off a Javelin suit from Anthem but in Star Citizen style

So I need high strength and very accurate parts.

And yes, I will use aluminium parts as well

[formal cloak]

Elegoo has washable resin, so that would help a lot.
Back when I had the Mars 2 Pro I used a big tub with 99% isopropyl alcohol.

[slender oasis]

I think some stuff does but not all. like the people that make large helmets and full ironman suits, they use FDM printing at least for all the big stuff. take my laser rifle prop for example. there are a handful of part on that, that would have been better resin printed, the detail bits but not the main body stuff

yeah I think I want to try and stick to water washable resins where I can. IPA is a bit exspensive these days.

[formal cloak]

With the Photon M7 Max having a build plate wider than most FDM printers, it would help me a lot.

Plus these parts I am building have to resist direct impact as the convention I am going to people tend to have wooden weapons.
And I had a Tough-PLA chest piece shatter upon impact because someone accidentally hit me.
And it was at its thinnest 1 cm thick with like thick walls and honeycomb filling.

[slender oasis]

I thought most resins were more fragile then FDM plastics

I know there are some that claim ABS like toughness what ever that means

[formal cloak]

All I know is my tough pla shattered

[slender oasis]

like this thing is only about 1cm thick I think and PLA. for someone to hit me hard enough to break that helm they would be hitting me hard enough to break my head as well

but there is allot of veriation in different types of PLA and the way people print. my silly helm is printed nearly solid using 0.8mm lines and the PLA I used for it is one I know is strong. things like silk PLA are crazy brittle

[formal cloak]

Maybe the issue I had is that it was also hot outside, like 28°C.