3D Print Gulag

[bold elm]

im also thinking the supports we're just to much hence the different orentations.

[hasty leaf]

Curing time is a factor of size of model and type of resin.

[bold elm]

I'm working with a 1inch mini thats very thin

Recommened cure time was 2mins

But it snapped removing the supports.

A little pressure and its just snaps.

Am I right to assume thats based on cure time?

[tight river]

Testing curing times does sound like the smartest idea, find out what you like

[hasty leaf]

My printer is fdm so I do not have much exp with resins apart from a few. I was teached that that 2 min is base point for a small miniature and so called overcured might happend somewhere from 6-10 mins but a lot of such is related to how complicated your model is. If some parts as external libs or weapons are a bit yellowish that is the mark of overcured. Thou I have seen such effect only onece and miniature seemed not frigile at all.

[slender oasis]

this might also be the type of resin. I have not done any resin printing my self but I understand that allot of the resins are on the britle side. there are some specific ones often labeled as "ABS like" that are less frigile and I often see people recommending those.

I think there are also resin calibration prints you can use to help figure out ideal exposure and curing times for different resins. much like with FDM printers where you sometimes need to run calibration prints to work out the best settings for a new filament.

you have probably already gotten the warning about this but I feel I should give it anyway just in case. UV resin is dangerous nasty stuff. do not get it on your skin, where your PPE. dispose of your rinsing fluid by letting the solven evaporate then cure the resin residue in the sun or with a uv light before throwing it out.

and welcome to the potentially addictive and fun hobby of 3d printing!

[humble terrace]

Per layer exposure time could be a factor as well

[humble terrace]

And yeah, don't shortcut on the PPE. The resin can get nasty.

[bold elm]

I have respirators and all the appropriate materials

[tulip bear]

Hi all, I’ve just had my own personal 3D printer set up ordered and I’m waiting for everything to arrive. I’ve got a good idea as to how to do it all, as I’ve done it at a previous workplace. I’m looking for files and wondering if anyone here has anything close to it.

I’m looking for files I could use to run a dwarf army for TOW. Obviously just looking for some nice proxies. I’ve seen some stuff online, but nothing I’ve really liked the look of.

[hasty leaf]

TOW?

[tulip bear]

The old world

[tight river]

what printer did you order?

[tulip bear]

I’ve got a Mars 4 ultra, that’s already arrived. Waiting on pretty much everything else lol.

[hasty leaf]

Yeggi was a descent agregate of different stl sites. Maybe sth there?
https://www.yeggi.com/q/warhammer+the+old+world+dwarf/

[formal sundial]

Got a question, guys. Most of my print's have turned out fine, but every once in a while, this will happen to one of the objects.that face is supposed to be completely flat.

[tight river]

Is that the side facing the print bed?

[formal sundial]

Seems to be

[tight river]

Probably warping then, seeing how it's a thin part of the print, i had adhesion issues like this when my garage was cold. You could print with a brim or reduce cooling for the first few layers

[formal sundial]

A brim is the thing that goes around the model on the first layer to help with plate adhesion, right?

[tight river]

There's a skirt and a brim. The brim is attached to your piece

[formal sundial]

Ok. The parts I'm printing are ones that I got on Thingiverse and I probably messed up and forgot to add anything to help with adhesion during slicing. I'll add some and see if that helps. Thanks, Dutchman.

[tight river]

[humble terrace]

Definitely looks like warping due to cooling and contraction. Dutchman has good advice.

[formal sundial]

Yeah, I checked the slicer and it didn't have a brim. I added it and it seems to be working now.

[humble terrace]

Just discovered the first downside of a network connected 3d printer in a different room.
They don't print well if your dumb ass forgets to pop off the last print.

[slender oasis]

if that is PLA it shouldnt be warping with that small of a part unless your bed adhesion is really bad. might be a case of needing to clean the bed or consider a different build plate if its one of the older ones

[hasty leaf]

True. Even natural grease from your fingers might be a problem.

[slender oasis]

worth mentioning again. IPA is not a cleaner, it does very little to remove oils from a build plate. take it to the kitchen sink and wash it with dish soap

[hybrid frigate]

If it is PLA, chances are that it is curling due to cooking the part with too much bed heat.

PLA doesn't tend to lift off like that from low adhesion, but it very much will if it is too hot.

You can try to stick it down harder, and that may work, but it is often faster to try just turning the bed temp down a bit unless you start having other more obvious adhesion issues, like the part popping off mid print.

Bed heat with PLA is a bit of a balancing act, because most surfaces hold better with more heat, but PLA curls when hot, so the two fight each other.

[humble terrace]

FYI, I would take Milo's advice before taking mine, he has quite a bit more experience.

[slender oasis]

PLA will lift like that, with bigger parts. long parts show warping allot more then short one. so yeah, to high a bed temp sounds very possible. 60c is generally the recommended temp.

[slender oasis]

this is interesting. does this mean that when printing very large flat parts that warp even with PLA, like stuff that takes up most of the printing bed, it might be a good idea to not use the heated bead? like maybe us a build surface that dosnt need heat to stick and glue or something?

[hasty leaf]

P1S came today!

[hybrid frigate]

I normally run like 55 or so past the first layer. Your machine will likely differ.

I tend to run the first layer hot, then step down after that. Most of the time it works great... sometimes it doesn't. Some parts are just a little weird and take a little tweaking to get best results.

And it depends on your filament too. Brands differ a lot.

I pretty much exclusively use polymaker Polylite these days.

[slender oasis]

I tend to get a little corner curling on the edges of anything longer then 80mm or so, brim helps too a point, when I get close to the full length of the bed, over 150mm or so a brim dosnt even do much to stop it.

its not a huge amount of warping, its still PLA after all, but I dont like ugly corner

[mossy urchin]

man it happened again

last sync - 02.11.24

[tight river]

As has this

😂

[mossy urchin]

man gaht damnit

[brisk moth]

hmm, I wonder when it finished the bottom layers

[formal cloak]

I wish I had 10K...........
https://formlabs.com/eu/3d-printers/form-4l/

[crystal cedar]

So this is what real disposable income looks like 🤔

[formal cloak]

Exactly

[hybrid frigate]

For that much money you could start thinking about SLS instead.

You would probably have to find a used one though

Or a small one.

[tight river]

Neat

I got my ARMCO wreath again

[formal cloak]

But the Form 4L can print fully transparent things, even my current Resin printer can't.

[slender oasis]

I was under the impression that any resin printer can do fully transparent if you go the right resin and used the right settings.

or maybe it needs to be a new higher res one

even if the surface finish ends up a little matte from tiny ridges and print artifacts that can be fixed by giving it a clear coat and that is a good idea anyway for UV/o2 protection

[humble terrace]

Yeah, I'll admit I'm a bit confused on that too. I've never had a need to do any transparent prints, but, I've certainly seen some examples.

[slender oasis]

trying to resist... the print times are insane https://www.printables.com/model/1087513-solar-system-lithophane-planet-lamp-collection

but I kinda want a full lithophane solar system hanging from my celing

[formal cloak]

My Elagoo Saturn can't oddly enough

[slender oasis]

any idea why?

[formal cloak]

It just creates a ton of burn marks and even polishing doesn't help as it's very cloudy.

[slender oasis]

burn marks? very odd

hm... I wonder if degassing resin helps with clearity in resin prints. seems like it might. stuff looks high enough viscosity that it would hold micro bubbles for a long time

[humble terrace]

Yeah, "burn marks" is not making much sense to me either.

[slender oasis]

the thing that annoys me about UV resin is they never tell you what kind of resin it is. my understanding is there are generally 2 basic types. epoxy based and acrylic based. they have different properites and its kind of important to know but its so hard to find out what your actually buying! maybe its easier for the printing resin but the little bottols of craft resin I use its a damn joke

printing resins should at least have safety data sheets you can look up

but good luck finding those for the craft resins

[formal cloak]

I don't know, it has a build-in air filter, but for some reason, everything I tried simply didn't work, I sped up, slowed down, changed the intensity, nothing worked, it kept having these burn marks
You know, brown spots.

[slender oasis]

I dont resin print so take anything I say with a grain of salt but that to me sounds like a problem with the resin its self. I would assume that is UV yellowing taken to the extreme by the intense UV light.

[formal cloak]

Could be, most other resins I have tried worked near flawlessly, and everything that did went wrong was because of my dumb ass forgetting to change a setting😅

Even medical safe resin works

[slender oasis]

can you get medical grade resins commercially? every time I have looked into that, the stuff is basically impossible to get unless your ordering in bulk from the supplier

[formal cloak]

I get it from work, aerospace engineering, we only use medical grade resin😅

[slender oasis]

still question that a UV resin can really be made body safe. I half suspect its a case of safe enough that the FDA wont throw a fit about it until 10-50 years down the line when they find out the chemicals it leaches into the body are giving people cancer or some shit

makes me a little worried about getting the bridge the dentist wants me to have

as I bet its 3d printed now

[formal cloak]

They're used usually for casts and prototype prosthetics.
But they're safer than normal resin

[slender oasis]

lol, that is a low bar

[humble terrace]

Have you tried more than one batch of transparent resin?

[formal cloak]

Yep, from 2 different manufacturer, maybe my printer is just too old😅

[slender oasis]

I keep debating getting a resin printer. so many thing I want to make that would be way easier with one but they are so messy and I really dont like working with those kinds of chemicals

[humble terrace]

Next guess is contamination from some other common element. Past that, not a clue.

[formal cloak]

I was debating for like a year as well, but at the time any FDM printer with the same quality was like 5 times as expensive 😅

[slender oasis]

if you work with or around resin printing in areo space, do they degass there resins before printing?

[formal cloak]

Nope, we use Resin printers that cost like at least 10K😅

[slender oasis]

it seems like it could be a good idea to me but I dont know if some of the additives in the resin might react badly too it. if something in the resin will boil off at low pressure and fuck up the resin.

or if its hydroscopic like PU resin and so if its been open for more then a day degassing will just cause it to foam like crazy adding more bubbles

[formal cloak]

I wouldn't know, the transparent resin works flawlessly on the work printer.

Even Ceramic resin works

[formal cloak]

I can't do that at home unless I finish my 3D printer chamber.

[slender oasis]

dont remember if it was linked here or not but someone came up with a way to print platinum cure silicone in a gel. was crazy cool stuff. probably be ages before the tech makes it to the hobby level sadly

[formal cloak]

Ah, gel 3D printing, my company has been looking at it, but we aren't sure about it just yet

The gel costs a lot of money

[slender oasis]

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/coperni-showcases-3d-printed-gel-bag-using-mits-rapid-liquid-printing-233380/

really cool stuff

[formal cloak]

It is very very cool

[slender oasis]

and figures the gel would be some super exspensive propritery crap

[formal cloak]

It is, the company we tried to ask about it didn't want to disclose what type of gel it is, and because we keep most devices at least 10 years we have to be sure that if said company stops producing said product that we can use alternatives.

[slender oasis]

they wont tell you because its going to be something stupid common and easy to make. its probably just a methylcellulose gel. looks like one

or carbomer

[formal cloak]

Could be 😅
But we want to be sure.

[slender oasis]

when in doubt, engage in industrial espionage

pay some disgruntled employee to smuggle out a sample of the gel and send it to a lab!

[formal cloak]

Great idea😅
But we don't have the funds for it

Yes I know, we have funds for 50 mil costing machines but not for other stuff

[slender oasis]

printing PETG, I want the fan disabled unless its doing overhangs or bridging right?

[brisk moth]

Fan will decrease strength, but make it look better.
Most people run with a low fan speed. Unsure about bridges though

I think on my ender3 I tend to run 20-30% fan

[slender oasis]

I settled on 30% after some research for the base fan speed. going up to 50% for bridging

seems to be printing ok

[humble terrace]

I think I did something similar when I did some PETG on my ender 3 pro, but I don't think I turned it up for bridging, and there WERE problems in the print because of it. It was still usable, but had some ugly looks in a few spot.

[slender oasis]

I always setup the dynamic bridging stuff in prusa slicer

no idea why none of my default profiles used it.

[formal cloak]

I personally am waiting till multi filament printers become cheaper, only reason I would buy 1.

[humble terrace]

Just bought one two weeks ago, and just 6 minutes ago queued up a two color print

Bambu P1S combo.

Got it for $750, and it'll do 4 colors. Can chain up to three more of their "AMS" units (Automatic Material System or something close to that) for up to 16 filaments.

[tight river]

I heard it recognises the colour automatically in each bay with a chip? Does that mean you can only print with their filament if you use that function?

[humble terrace]

Yes, no.

If it doesn't find a chip, you just tell it what's there and pick the filament profile

[tight river]

Ah, i figured as much. Thanks

[humble terrace]

Their consumables are a BIT pricy, and I have a Microcenter close by. I've had pretty much zero issue running Inland filaments.

[tight river]

Totally not jealous about the microcenter🥲

There isn't a single store around here that sells 3D printer stuff

[humble terrace]

I think in 2 weeks, I'm about 30 prints in, and I've only had one legit failure, first layer just didn't stick once. (One other failure where my dumb ass remotely queued up a print without realizing I hadn't removed the previous print...)

Oh, and the bad first layer one I caught via the integrated camera.

So far, I'm absolutely thrilled with it.

Speaking of two color prints #1058874733610946581 message

[tight river]

Oh that was done in one print? It thought it was glued😝

[humble terrace]

Nope, single print for that one.
It was the first "interesting" multi color print though, all the others I had done just had the color transition at a particular layer. 30 of these https://www.printables.com/model/143185-gingerbread-house-kit-card

[formal cloak]

You lucky son of a bitch

[humble terrace]

I'd been using the everloving hell out of my Ender 3, so something a bit more capable wasn't hard to justify.

[tight river]

My ender 3v2 has been on once since I received my Neptune 4

[formal cloak]

I have been using my Saturn since it came out, I think the new Mars 4 is the same size😅

[slender oasis]

Mars 5

they are already at 5

[humble terrace]

The only disappointment I have with it so far is it seems a bit wasteful on color switches when it needs to do it every layer. Supposedly I've set purge into object and such appropriately, but it's still purging more filament than it should. I probably need to learn more on that though.

[formal cloak]

😐New release every year I see

[slender oasis]

but its kind of an odd case, the 4 is actually kinda better in some ways. the 4 has a better screen, they went back to a 4k screen in the 5 but added a bunch of quality of life upgrades like auto leveling

[tight river]

Yeah. The multi coloured prints I've seen so far produced an awful lot of waste

[slender oasis]

the 5 is also very cheap

so that is good I guess

[formal cloak]

Levelling in a resin printer is 1 of the easiest things you can do😐

[slender oasis]

so maybe the 4 really is better

I personally think I would rather have the 8k screen

[formal cloak]

What about 12K, or 16K, I thought 1 of the Saturn has a 12K, but I am not sure

[slender oasis]

I think the 4 pro has a 12k as does the Saturn 4?

not sure, the mars 4 pro might also be 8k

[formal cloak]

I don't know, I have the older Saturn😅

[slender oasis]

I want the silly oversized Elegoo printer.

1 cubic meter because fuck yeah!

print some furnature

[humble terrace]

Don't they want 2.5k for that?

[tight river]

iirc it wasnt even that expensive

[slender oasis]

2k I think

[formal cloak]

They have 1?

[slender oasis]

I mean its only a little more exspensive then a Prusa printer 😛

[humble terrace]

Yeah, pre-order for 2499.99

[formal cloak]

WTF
https://eu.elegoo.com/products/orangestorm-giga?utm_source=officialhome&utm_medium=referral&utm_id=eustore

[humble terrace]

"Gigantic Build Volume: 800mm x 800mm x 1000mm"

[formal cloak]

Yes, that I want 😅

Then I can make my prints in 1 go

[slender oasis]

ah, its back up to 2.5k

[humble terrace]

I think Milo built a 1m x 1m x 1m?

[formal cloak]

😐

[slender oasis]

the betas had some problems but it sounds like they ventually worked them out

its a little on the silly side but who wouldnt want one

[tight river]

i have the 4 pro and already running out of space😂

[formal cloak]

I think I would get both the Saturn 4 Ultra and the Giga, that way I can make both high quality and oversized prints😅

[slender oasis]

dont you want a Jupiter instead to go with a Giga? or maybe they have not updated those in a long time

[formal cloak]

Because I do cosplay, and if I can print in 1 go it'll save a lot of time

[slender oasis]

I am kinda getting into stuff like that. starting to wish I had a sewing machine... not that i have a clue how to use one or have a place I could fit one!

[formal cloak]

Be happy, I don't even have a desk🙃
I do most computer tasks in my rig

[tight river]

Thats is something we do have around here, not one store selling 3d printer stuff, but several selling sewing machines

[slender oasis]

rig? you a trucker?

I do have a microcenter near buy... but my lack of transportation means it might as well be on the moon

[formal cloak]

Star Citizen rig actually 😅

[tight river]

You can print in a truck, even while moving, saw one dude on reddit who pulled it off

[slender oasis]

if you built a flight sim setup instead of a computer desk you get no sympathy from me 😛

I am trying to get to the hardware store so I can get some more lumber and build another work table thing to put more shit on. this will go in my kitchen and allow me to move my spray booth and vacuum chamber off the counter so I can actually cook again

neighbore with a truck keeps saying he will take me but always forgets

[tight river]

I have been printing on the kitchen table recently, the garage is too cold

[slender oasis]

hopefully no spaghetti for dinner

[formal cloak]

Listen, I have 2 45" displays, 1 24" drawing display, 2 tablet mounts and 2 Streamdeck mounts, plus my 3D mouse is there and the chair is such a comfy Audi A7 chair😀

[tight river]

heh, so far so good😝

[slender oasis]

lol

[formal cloak]

Trust me, car seats are way way more comfy than desk chairs.

[slender oasis]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1316952582056575016/IMG_20241212_201854929.jpg?ex=675ceb2b&is=675b99ab&hm=d06b531858ef85655613fbd0f45823186281b42339cf2580e18b2f72acd62684&

turned ok. surface finish was great but layer adhesion was shit, I need to up the temp or lower the cooling it seems

[slender oasis]

totally agree with that, I have always wanted to build my own computer chair out of a nice car seat. but I need access to welding gear for that

[formal cloak]

Or slow it down

[slender oasis]

also the bridging was horrible

I know PETG dosnt bridge very well

its a very nice looking filament

[formal cloak]

Nah, a drill, some wood and clamps are good enough

[slender oasis]

not for my fat ass...

I am also kinda terrible at wood working

[tight river]

Use the frame and wheels of an existing chair

[formal cloak]

Then tell your fatass to become lighter 🙃

[slender oasis]

trying!

it dosnt listen

[formal cloak]

Mine is on rails so if feels like I am going in the cockpit of a Crusader Industries Hercules or Spirit😃

[tight river]

but they were talking about a desk chair😜

[formal cloak]

I know the feeling 🥲

[slender oasis]

yeah, that is the plan but I still need to be able to make a frame of some kind that can attach to the seat. I guess wood might work for that after all

of course I dont have a way to get to a junk yard to find a seat so

[tight river]

could just use some steel strips, then a hacksaw, a drill and some bolts might work

no need for a welder

[formal cloak]

Aluminium frame, these aluminium bars 3D printers have, you can buy on Amazon and are pretty sturdy, that way you still only need a drill.

[tight river]

old desk chairs are plenty available everywhere

[formal cloak]

I use those 3D printer aluminium profiles for my raised floor and have yet to bend 1

[slender oasis]

extrusion is a bit out of my price range. would need 40mm at least and that gets exspensive fast, at least for me

[tight river]

angle-iron

[formal cloak]

I almost thought that said Angel-iron😐

[slender oasis]

yeah, ideally I would just use angle iron and box tubing. bit of cutting and welding. would take no time if I just had access to a welder

[tight river]

bolts work too, plenty strong for a chair

[formal cloak]

Most chairs use bolts

[slender oasis]

its not quite that simple. bottom of a car seat will have 4 bolt points spaces far appart. the char tilt mechanism has 4 bolts very close together in the center. so I have to make a frame that wont bend that adapts those 2 layouts without adding extra height because the car seat is already much thicker then a computer chair.

infact I probably need to resess the chair mount up into the under side of the seat to keep it from being too tall

[formal cloak]

That's why you need a drill🙃

[slender oasis]

yes but building a spider shape like that with just bolts out of steel. that would be a nightmare. at least without a mill or at least a good drill press

[formal cloak]

I just have 4 in the width and 2 rows of shorter pieces in the middle

Strong enough for my fat ass

[slender oasis]

but yours is fixed isnt it?

not a swivel and tilting chair?

[tight river]

3D print a drill guide

[formal cloak]

I can't rotate no

[slender oasis]

I have so little space I have to be able to rotate and roll or I wont be able to get out of it

that and I swing around to work at my work desk. I have 2 desks, one with the computer stuff the other with my printer and tools where I build shit and the chair is in the middle of them

[formal cloak]

Ah fair enough

I suck at building "conventional" chairs sadly enough, so yeah.

[tight river]

That's why you want the big printer, to print chairs?😜

It's like every promotional video for those printers, all they print are chairs

[formal cloak]

I prefer like weird chairs that are more rounded, most chairs hurt my back, and car chairs and some "egg shaped" chairs don't😅

But I ain't gonna pay 5000.- for a chair

[tight river]

All those 'design' chairs probably?

he says, while sitting at his design desk

I'm gonna look into operator chairs, they're actually designed to sit in for a long time. All these desk chairs may look cool but are horrible to sit in for a long time. my current one is 3 years old, the fake leather is peeling and it's creaking like it's gonna fall apart at any moment now

[slender oasis]

I recently redid all the hardware on my chair. replaced the tilt mech, casters, gas strut. was about 100 bucks vs buying another one of these chairs for 500

it would have been cheaper but I bought the wrong gas strut the first time

funny thing is when I bought mine it was only 150

getting the damn gas strut out of the base was a NIGHTMARE

[tight river]

I think it's the mounting point of my spring what's making the noise, but that's a press fit

[slender oasis]

it had collapsed into it, chair has a metal base not plastic. it had sunk in way past where it should. I didnt have a press to get it out so I improvised with a hydraulic jack and some rachet straps and 2x4s... sketchy as hell and when that strut popped out it flew a good 15ft into the air. I was smart enough to do it outside at least

[tight river]

If it works, it's not stupid

[slender oasis]

if it had hit me coming out it probably would have killed me making it very stupid

all the guides make it sound easy, and it probably is if you have a polymer base. but if you have a metal base its not so easy. getting the gas strut out of the tilt mechanism is not to bad if you buy a gas strut with the removal tool. they are only a little more exspensive

[formal cloak]

All guides make it sound easy🤣

[slender oasis]

upgrading to the roller blade style wheels was a really nice change, only 15 bucks and well worth it if you have crappy plastic casters

[tight river]

I despise the crappy plastic ones, ordered a set of the polyurethane ones from aliexpress, work perfectly

[slender oasis]

I also upgraded everything else not just replaced. got a gas strut that can support 1k lbs and a tilt that says its rated for 500lbs vs the 250 the original had.

just wish I could find arm rest pads that fit this

I just ordered a bunch of crap off alie, wantedto get a few things before prices get stupid or shipping them to the US outright gets banned. got a bunch of BMS boards and a few other electronics projects odds and ends. wish I could have ordered a few EPS32s but cant really afford it

[tight river]

Yeah, i only use it for those kinds of stuff, obscure hard to get electronic parts, sensors, that kind of stuff

They got a few warehouses in europe now so they can ship more easily and get around the taxes for non-eu stuff

[hybrid frigate]

Nah, mine is "only" a 500x500x500

It will just barely fit through a door.

I want one of these beasts:
https://www.disruptengineering.com/

An industrialized RatRig VCore 4

[humble terrace]

You can do an awful lot with bolts and angle iron.

Aaaand Dutchman's already covered that...

[tight river]

[humble terrace]

Heh. "only".

[humble terrace]

That looks like fun

[hasty leaf]

Mine came a few days ago. Painting first thingis just now 🙂

[hollow night]

@flat barn Pulling a conversation over from shack chat to here. Look into some of the direct metal laser sintering (DLMS) stuff 3D systems dose. Those parts are pretty cool, I couldn't find the image I thought I had, but a quick Google search will get you most of the way there.

[flat barn]

Alright thanks

[slender oasis]

designed and printed some soft jaws with pcb slot for my vise. also has top screw holes for putting in posts for clamping odd shaped things. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1320313022006300683/IMG_20241222_025200407.jpg?ex=676924d2&is=6767d352&hm=8b8593010f5ba2ff3dcb322909823a6403d4d15706fe4662814540800d254c82&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1320275956975276043/image.png?ex=6769024d&is=6767b0cd&hm=0a8f2eaa366b95048ce4005616d661cd8bb150dd8461e32de69106bb155bbc6c&

[tight river]

That looks pretty slick, what's the distance between those bolt holes? If you're willing to share I'd be interested in the stl

[slender oasis]

45mm

center to center

its sized for an m5 heatset insert. at least the size of insert I have. as my vise uses m5 screws for this

here is the stl.

the original file is all non destructive so if you have a size and hole spacing you need I can quickly make an altered version

these are made for a Wen 3inch drill press vise

the top holes are m3

I still need to design the little screw covers for the screws on top. they are ment to have a barrel thing around them

[tight river]

Cool. Thanks! No clue what brand mine is. My vice has 60mm between holes so I'll have to modify it.

[slender oasis]

I got the idea from these kinds of vise.

seemed like a really good way to hold odd shaped objects

how wide are the jaws?

[tight river]

Bit easier than a fractal vicd😝

[slender oasis]

lol, I am totally making fractal jaws for it as well eventually 😛

[tight river]

96mm

Odd size, expected it to be 100

[slender oasis]

what about hole center to bottom?

[tight river]

7mm

[slender oasis]

odd, how tall is the jaw?

[tight river]

18

Reference pic

[slender oasis]

ah, yours screws into the vice not into the jaw. so you dont need inserts

would need to know the size of those bolts to make the adjustment

but at least it dosnt look like the bottom distance matters as there is lots of space under them unlike a drill press vise

if your familure with blender I could just toss you the blend file as well.

[tight river]

I'm not but my gf is, I'd love to have the file

[slender oasis]

its all non destructive modeling so its really easy to modify

I already resized it for your vise. just need to adjust the bolt hole cutter to match what you need

[tight river]

Amazing, thanks!

Currently busy mounting a lot of printed rod holders, made a jig to save me a lot of measuring 😝

[slender oasis]

for holding spools?

I have been trying to figure out a place I could setup a spool holder because I have to much filament stacked up in random places!

[tight river]

No, loads of horse saddlepads

Rods for filament spools don't sound like the best option, because you always need the middle one and have to take off everything else

Two parallel rods could work. They can sit in between

[slender oasis]

yeah, that is the way to do it.

horse tack... I miss horses

I wasnt much into riding so my horse was more of a lap dog... terrifying thing when you consider she was 17 hands and 2000lbs half draft.

[tight river]

Cool, ours is ~16.2 hands, around 1500lbs. I post pics of him in the #the-pet-den sometimes

[slender oasis]

I will go drop a picture of the monster down there

[tight river]

All hangers are printed of course

[slender oasis]

my sister did the fancy riding stuff. I just rode around bear back with optionally a rope halter.

[tight river]

I don't ride either, I'm just the logistics guy and giving treats😂

[crystal cedar]

Without learning how to use Blender I made this for the campaign

tracks were too confusing so I ended up with "wheels"

[slender oasis]

I needed tool and project boxes. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/231590159420882945/1326257251949875341/IMG_20250107_123218397.jpg?ex=678167d1&is=67801651&hm=e0378ec306fe493fa63e4ac26ee7ef21a744aedb1c90e6593174bc2389427c8d&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1327113626133463093/IMG_20250109_211514354.jpg?ex=6781e261&is=678090e1&hm=09d1303992641978917d136da6acb4375de5aa4f27a76e5ae6d5cc005cd7a57b&

the one with the gold latches is for small tools, other 2 are project boxes. found it on printables and they seem quite nice other then it used up all my m3x30 screws

takes 10hrs to print each one with my settings

[humble terrace]

Those look pretty neat

[slender oasis]

I kept loosing allen wrenches and drill bits so I needed a box. started me down this rabbit hole

https://www.printables.com/model/402278-rugged-box-with-horizontal-inserts-parametric

[tight river]

Oh I was looking for a drill bit box, thanks

[slender oasis]

so, Bambu has gone full HP. locking down there printers from 3d party apps changing there TOS to say they can brick your machine if you refuse to install updates

[tight river]

That really sucks, their printers are pretty neat but is bs

You paid for it, it's your machine

[mossy urchin]

Most of their printers benefits is the software so if you'd install a third party controller you'd still be kinda effed

[mossy urchin]

I had actually thought about getting a bambulab

Now not anymore until they reverse course

[formal cloak]

They only go full HP if you only can use Bamboo Lab Filament

[tight river]

same, but i'll refrain from doing so now

[formal cloak]

Sad thing is, on a budget, multi filament with more than 2 colours is only possible with BambooLab

[brisk moth]

or prusa

[tight river]

yeah, looks like i'll have to keep printing in one colour for now

[formal cloak]

Prusa does 2 colours, not more like the 4+ Bamboo can

[brisk moth]

nothing of prusas does only two colours

[slender oasis]

that is not true

anycubic has a similar system and its cheaper

https://store.anycubic.com/products/kobra-s1-combo

[brisk moth]

and yeah, some of the chinese brands have filament switchers

[slender oasis]

I dont know how good it is, but its there

and many other companies are comming out with them as well

the Qidi printers are looking REALLY interesting to me

the Q1 pro looks like a better P1s with a heated chamber but for half the price

and it sounds like Qidi has a mutli material option in the works. I think Solvo does as well. at least those are the rumors

[formal cloak]

Does it have ABL?

[slender oasis]

I mean I cant even think of a printer to come out in the last 2 years without ABL

yeah, they all have ABL and auto Z

Bambu's printers are not good because of hardware, there hardware is the same as everyone elses. they are good for one simple reason. they ship with a slicer that is kept up to date and most importantly of all comes with a bunch of well tuned and tested profiles

when people say "bambu printers just work" that is what they really mean

[formal cloak]

Very cheap ones still don't have it😅

[slender oasis]

the rest of use using other printers always have to deal with the headache of tuning our printers, finding better profiles then the fucking shit ones that are shipped with them. if they printer is new, the major slicers wont have profiles for them yet so we have to try and adapt the profile from the 5 year old version of Cura or what ever they come with into the modern slicers and tune retractions and all that crap

[formal cloak]

Sounds like a pain, I am only familiar with resin printers

[slender oasis]

its insane. these companies are constantly shooting them selves in the foot over something that is easy and cheap!

the only 2 companies I know of that ship with up to date slicers with good profiles are Bambu and Prusa

and that is why those 2 companies have the rep they do

its all about the profiles

[brisk moth]

we can tell

[slender oasis]

well that and having basic QC... some of those companies have next to no QC, Creality being well known for this

[formal cloak]

So for me I need Bamboolab because I don't like messing with software, I just want it to work😐

[slender oasis]

I think Solvo is doing better. I heard they are shipping with a fairly up to date version of Orca now and it sounds like there latest printers profiles are not horrible at least

[slender oasis]

bambu or prusa. Prusa might maybe be finally getting the memo on there insane prices? there latest printer looks to be feature comparable to the X1 and at about the same price point. its still a 1k+ printer but at least its not 3x the price of the bambu printers for half the features like there last few options

[formal cloak]

Multi filament Prusa is 3.8K for me..........

[slender oasis]

I think its 1500 for the new one. the Core One I think its called? and you get the MMU upgrade I think that is like an extra 300 or something

still freaking exspensive

but for prusa its a bargen

[brisk moth]

1200usd assembled

or 950usd for a kit

mmu is 360

[formal cloak]

1400.- and only has 1 colour from what I can find

[brisk moth]

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-core-one/

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mmu3-assembled-unit-for-mk4s-mk3-9s/

[slender oasis]

I am honestly not impressed with current multi material options

the MMU style fillament changers suck because they cant work with flexibles and produces shitloads of waste. the multi head options are better about this but are insanely exspensive

all for what?

[formal cloak]

Extra print head makes it 8 times the price apparently 😐

[slender oasis]

the best use of them is to print your supports out of something else. like using PETG for supports with PLA. but if you dont fully purge that PETG your layer adhesion go's to hell and you have to pruge the shit out of the hotend to get rid of all the PETG. you waste SO much filament doing that and tripple your print time

[brisk moth]

differenmt printer

[formal cloak]

Usually it's processing power, which shouldn't be an issue unless they never want to upgrade their hardware

[slender oasis]

the other use I could see really wanting multi material for is to print flexible parts in place in a rigid print but you cant do that! the material changers jam if you try and print TPU

so really its just color changing

and I would rather paint my prints

[formal cloak]

There is filament that dissolves when it touches water, it's great for support, but I forgot what it is called and if it still exists'

[brisk moth]

pva

and probably

[slender oasis]

PVB I think not PVA

[brisk moth]

plus.. HIPS I think is the other one. but its not water soluble, dissolves in something else

[slender oasis]

yeah HIPS I think is used for supporting ABS/ASA?

[formal cloak]

Doesn't matter, as long it dissolves 😅

[slender oasis]

HIPS is also good on its own

[brisk moth]

yeah, HIPS is a solid low-engineering filement

[slender oasis]

but its still the same problem. you have to pruge SO much to get the hot end cleaned out enough to not hurt your layer adhesion. not an issue if your just changing color but all the people I know doing different material supports like this have ran into hell with it

[formal cloak]

The reason I want multi filament is because I can use 1 for easy removable because I am lazy and the other for colour or multi type of filament

For single "filament" I want a resin printer.
They are, or were more accurate and printed more sturdy.

[humble terrace]

That's...not at all what I've read. You can still use external slicers such as OrcaSlicer, just need a plugin.
I also haven't heard anything about bricking machines for refusing updates. Do you have a source on this?

[humble terrace]

If you spend a few minutes thinking about it, you can minimize the waste fairly easily. Their default purge volumes on switch are focused more on absolutely positively getting the appearance right than minimizing waste.
Also, when printing multiples on the same plate, you generally then have 1x the purge volume for several models, thus 1/x per.

[humble terrace]

You can supposedly use some of the slightly harder durometer TPUs through those changers. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm looking forward to doing so. Might make some really nice sealed boxes.

[humble terrace]

That, and if you're just doing multiple colors of compatible filaments, a "purge model" that you don't care about the colors can minimize the waste as long as you have a use for it

[slender oasis]

yes, the source is there updated TOS and there recent blog posts... but by now most of the 3d printing channels are finally reporting on this.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/808019008179142676/1330392024490442783/IMG_2343.png?ex=678e7860&is=678d26e0&hm=54078d1df19bc8b7573845b1a128a5b4ef78f3693f4cf001dd5e7a3a0b677177&

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1i3gq1t/why_you_should_care_about_bambu_labs_removing/

a very good post on the problem, this was posted before there TOS update

[slender oasis]

"slightly harder" normal TPU filament is 90-95A the tpu they released that is compatible with the AMS is 75D, for comparison PETG is also 75-80D

it might be flexible but that is so far outside the range of an elestomer you cant even pretend that shit is still rubber. its just bendy plastic

as for purge amounts when trying to use a different support material, there isnt much you can do about that. if you want to use a none compatible (wont stick) filament for your supports so you have smooth surfaces and easy to remove supports you have to purge like crazy to get rid of that stuff and not screw up your layer adhesion on the actual part its self. people in a big makers discord I am in have been battleing with this for weeks trying to perfect using PETG supports for PLA and most have given up

AMS/MMU type systems really are just multi color, its not very practical at all to actually do multi material with them

unless your ok with potentially doubling your material useage and waste along with trippling or more your print times

[humble terrace]

My impression is that this is supposed to mean "can't use our cloud print service", but yes, as worded, it's far more broad. We'll see.

On filament switching, seems fine for me for multi-color. Have not tried doing supports yet.

[slender oasis]

oh I am sure they will walk it back in a day or two, say the classic tech company line "we listen to our customers" then slowly add it back in over a few months too a year in smaller bits.

slow boil, dont let them know they are being cooked!

[humble terrace]

Eh, I'm not convinced on that. My take on them is "we want our entire ecosystem to be the easy way, but we're not going to stop people doing it a different way". You don't have to use their filament, you don't have to use their print service, you don't actually even have to use their firmware.

[elder linden]

Here's to hoping, I really don't want the 3d printer world turning into the regular printer world

[tight river]

So far it looked to me to be to be complete opposite. Most printers come with a little toolkit and the manufacturer couldn't care less about what mods you do to it or what material you stuff into the nozzle, they already got their money

[slender oasis]

profits on hardware are never that high, the real money is in services. no effort, little investment, just rake in that "rent" Bambu knows this and that is there goal.

[tight river]

capitalism, yay!

I think the 3D community is the worst community to try this tactic on

[slender oasis]

lol, you think anti property and right to repair stuff wont go down well with a bunch of makers? na, that is crazy talk!

then again makers still use Autodesk products so maybe they really will exsept it

[formal cloak]

It's also a problem with their locations.
A nice example is small companies in the Netherlands barely survive because of taxes, but very large companies who would lose less than 1% in revenue if they pay taxes often refuse to pay taxes.

[tight river]

we're a tax-haven for sure

[mossy urchin]

lmao Bambu Connect’s Authentication X.509 Certificate And Private Key Extracted https://hackaday.com/2025/01/19/bambu-connects-authentication-x-509-certificate-and-private-key-extracted/

Not even a day and someone leaks the key that enables custom software to control the printer

God, I love this community haha

[tribal hedge]

That just made someone’s day become horrible

[mossy urchin]

Honestly it's their fault for using it in a practically plaintext javascript (electron) app

[tight river]

Hiding in plain sight

[slender oasis]

they did the classic partial walk back and dissmissle of peoples worries as lies and misinformation thing as well.

the partial walk back is in the form of a "developer mode" that will let you bypass some of the requirements for advanced users and print farms

its funny seeing them claim that its a lie that they are planning to brick peoples printers or prevent them from printing unless they update there firmware a day after changing there TOS to say they have the right to do exactly that.

[tight river]

Classic tactic, push an update that makes people mad, then roll back and push something slightly less bad and say they listened to the community

[slender oasis]

its become the tech and software industry standard.

[elder linden]

Govts do the same thing, its commonplace everywhere nowadays

Apparently it's called rollback ruse

[tight river]

It sucks and is scummy behaviour

One of the games i used to play is doing the same thing. Membership fees already increased recently, now they want to increase even more, include ads and have you pay extra for actual customers support

And now they say they won't do all of those things, just some

[slender oasis]

yeah its super big in gaming sadly. EA is well known for it

[elder linden]

Hell one of the gyms nearby tried to pull it

I had an exchange of words with the owner there over it

[hybrid frigate]

Quickly checks Yup, the OSRS subreddit is still full of nothing but poll backlash.

[tight river]

As it should

[mossy urchin]

Lemme just archive the TOS rq

https://web.archive.org/web/20250121184345/https://bambulab.com/en-us/policies/terms
well how convenient

[tribal hedge]

Right click and save

[mossy urchin]

Well yes but thats not available to the public

[formal cloak]

https://youtu.be/xAPw2INpqJw

While the promise of the printer is great, the software seems to be pure garbage

[slender oasis]

yeah... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6MybDJfmmY

Louis Rossmann did a video on that BS. pure corperate gaslighting

[slender oasis]

every "review" I have seen on that printer or the beta version of that printer I guess as its not actually released yet unless it came out this week. has been idiot youtubers that exsepted the giant ass thing without seeming to understand that its GIANT. like its always people that have NO interest in a giant printer, no need for one other then they thought it would make a great thumbnail for a video. and then they are shocked to find they hate it!

of course I am sure there are some big problems with the printer. hopefully they get them sorted before actual release but who knows, the problems seem to be software side and elegoo seems to be total shit on that side from what I have seen

[formal cloak]

Have you watched the vid though, this guy explained the issues he has and what he has tried.

[slender oasis]

I have not watched his other then the first 10mins of it. because it was the same as like 3 other videos on it I have seen

as I said above. people who dont want or need a giant printer.

and yeah, the beta versions of those printers did not work for basically ANYONE

they were broken AF

but also the printer isnt released yet, jsut checked, it ships at the end of Feb

[brisk moth]

Well then you probably missed the bit where he had massive issues with the printer firmware, and that elegoos support was near useless.
He got one print out of it

[slender oasis]

no, as I said, him and EVERYONE else

elegoo is fucking shit at the software side

[brisk moth]

Well then you missed the one from someone else where it worked :p

[slender oasis]

and I fully understand his pain about everything being in Chinese. why I have not updated my firmware on my printer so I get pressurer advance (or what ever the marline version is called) because all the instructions are in Chinese and they wont release an english guide

[slender oasis]

who has a working one?

[brisk moth]

From memory when I watched it - Dr D.Flow

D.Flo?

[slender oasis]

might look into it. of course you cant trust any of them. 3d printing youtubers are 95% shills now.

[brisk moth]

https://youtu.be/V2ElLdEqbcg?si=c1UU4cH-5OoTtxSY

[slender oasis]

I just watche Major Hardware for fan showdowns

those are kinda fun

[formal cloak]

But others don't go into so much details on what they have tried.

Which I think is important to how a video like this is made.

[brisk moth]

The Dr. in his "name" isn't just an affectation either I don't think. Pretty sure he is actually a Dr or professor of some kind. He teaches at least.

[slender oasis]

the ones I watched did. would have to look up who they were. (I cant remember names like ever)

[brisk moth]

He made his own large format printer too. Using a pellet extruder

[slender oasis]

like at this point the only 3d printing channel I actually trust is Teaching Tech.

[formal cloak]

Even getting replacement boards and stuff?

[slender oasis]

at least of the ones that some times do reviews

[slender oasis]

yep

let me find it

it was allot older

[formal cloak]

The thing is, this guy didn't ask for 1, he got send 1

[slender oasis]

lets see, I know I watched Frankly Built's video on it

[brisk moth]

That's how these pre-release reviews tend to go

[slender oasis]

I think the one that went into more detail was 3d Printing Nerd? these were all the ones from 8 months ago

I had hoped they would have sorted shit out by now

[formal cloak]

Not always though😅

But this guy rarely does 3D printer reviews, more often he asks the community to send in fan designs and he tests them😅

[slender oasis]

they offered him, a pallet didnt just show up at his door unexpectedly 😛

also should be the first warning to anyone not understanding that this aint a desktop printer! it comes on a pallet!

[formal cloak]

And he basically didn't think about it and delayed pretty much the build of the thing😅

[brisk moth]

From watching 3dp YouTubers that's surprisingly common

[slender oasis]

I have a slightly different POV on this thing. this is like buying a mill or lathe or CNC, shop machines. dont expect plug and play, be ready to modify it to make it actually work for you. esspecially if its low cost hardware from China.

if I was buying a giant printer like that I would fully expect to replace the main board with something better and load my own version of Klipper onto it rather then the garbage version that Elegoo uses

[formal cloak]

The only reason I would buy a printer like this(and I probably will) is so I can 3D print a chest piece for a Cosplay outfit.

[brisk moth]

If I was buying a product I would expect it to work.

[slender oasis]

its better to do it in parts instead and glue it up. I want a larger printer so I can do fewer parts but I dont think it would be that big

[brisk moth]

Under local laws I would eligible for a full refund or replacement

"fit for purpose"

[slender oasis]

work yes, totally. work well for what you want? I wouldnt count on it

not at that price

[brisk moth]

When it worked it seemed to work well enough. Though his benchy (the one print he got out) looked kinda shit

[slender oasis]

it did

[brisk moth]

It might be cheap for what it is, but that doesn't mean it's not expensive

[slender oasis]

I am not defending Elegoo on this at all. if they ship printers out in the state that these beta review models are in, they need to get the shit slapped out of them for it.

[brisk moth]

Definitely

[formal cloak]

And how good do you think I am with glue?

Half my prints have to be done multiple times because I am bad at it

[slender oasis]

just also being realistic. that is an insane price for a printer of that size, so I kinda expected they would cut corners and if you wanted to make it actually good it will require modifiying

[slender oasis]

ah so your like me

and I am too cheap to reprint when I screw up my alignement when gluing up so instead I spend days sanding and filling to fix the problem...

I might be an idiot on that part

[formal cloak]

At work we use a robot to properly "glue" 3D print prototype together.
I don't have 200000 euro laying around to buy 1😅

[slender oasis]

but the problem with trying to print stuff that large and complex in one piece is that the prints often fail and require so much supports that the print can literally take a week or more to finish

[formal cloak]

I don't mind that, better than spending more on filaments I can't reuse😅

[slender oasis]

I have taken recently to using filament alienment pins. I have tried other alignment pins/pegs in the past and always screw up the tollerances and it becomes a headache but using little 2mm holes and filament works suprizingly well!

[formal cloak]

I know how to make large prints, like the 1 at my work is the size of a small room and takes roughly a week to finish😅

As long it goes mostly good I can correct it, but playing with glue, bad idea for me.

[slender oasis]

what type of glue do you normally use?

I super glue everything, including of course my fingers to the print, my pants, my face, my hair.

[tight river]

somehow super glue ends up everywhere but on the part itself

[formal cloak]

Depends, I sometimes use left over resin, plastic glue or super glue.

I once had to go to the ER because my phone was glue to my hand🤣
Literally

[slender oasis]

this glue up almost did me in

cant see in the picture how bad some of the alignments really were

[formal cloak]

And before you ask who the fuck would use 3d print resin for glueing things together.
I can tell you.
ME, the bitch that is very bad with glue and often uses too much or too little.

[slender oasis]

UV resin is great for that. not so much glueing but reenforcing glue joints with a UV resin fillet, hell yeah. also very useful for smoothing

as super glue is super brittle, a good thing and a bad thing. I actually like how brittle it is because its easy to break the joint if you screw up in some cases

[formal cloak]

Smoothing🤣
I am not gonna try that with my clumsiness

[tight river]

i've had super glue joints break and become razor sharp, sharp enough to cut open my fingers

[slender oasis]

I likely have MS (will be finding out in the next week or so I hope, apointment today about that) I know all about how bad that can be. I refuse to let it stop me. soldering is the biggest nightmare for me

[formal cloak]

If I can I am willing to buy a giant printer just so I can make large prints, so I don't have to deal with the fuck I am

[slender oasis]

I cant get the soldering iron to do what I want, I just dont have enough control esspecially when the cheap iron I have is so heavy and the tip is so far from where I hold it. wish I could get one of the nicer ones that let you hold it close to the tip

[formal cloak]

Soldering is fun though, but I always recommend an overpowered soldering iron, because if they're weak you have a hard time controlling both you and the solder because everything takes 10 times as long.

[slender oasis]

for smoothing prints my current fav method is painting on XTC epoxy. paint it on with a cheap chip brush and let it cure

[slender oasis]

the other day I was putting together a simple motor speed controller and the 3d printed box I made for it. had about 6 solder joints, all wires to terminals kind of things, easy soldering joints. 4 crimps and some heat shrinking... it took me 3 hours 😦

[formal cloak]

I almost thought you were talking about the drugs (been dealing with that a lot lately as animal ambulance when taking away pets) 😐

I usually use a primer, then the colour I prefer as under layer and then the colour I want, sometimes I sand it down a bit.

[slender oasis]

lol, oh and super gluing some magnets in for the lid. and by that I of course mean super gluing the magnets to eachother, to my hands, to the wrong part of the print!

[slender oasis]

sorry to hear that.

[formal cloak]

I know someone who uses left over resin to bind that together because they can't solder even if their life dependents on it.

[slender oasis]

I do filler primer and sanding and priming and sanding and spot putty and sanding and more priming, on some models, things where I cant risk the epoxy bluring the details. not fun but results are nice

[formal cloak]

It's okay, most of the animals now have a good home, just sad for the owners.

[slender oasis]

oh you do that as a job?

or volenter stuff

I could not do that. I would be a total mess constantly. cant drive when bawling your eyes out

[formal cloak]

Animal Ambulance is mostly voluntary sadly enough, there isn't enough of us.

I rather take animals to the vets than take them away, but once in a while we get a call from the police to take animals away from a drugs abuser😅

[slender oasis]

I would be a total wreck, no way. I cant see critters in trouble or pain, it kills me. even if I am there to help and I would push my self way to hard to help... and also probably get assualt charges when I beat the hell out of someone for not taking good care of there critters

[formal cloak]

Emotions come later, I am usually overjoyed when I can help, I would be a wreck when I can't.

[slender oasis]

I have fairly horrible emotional control

anyway, XTC is a line of epoxy by Smooth-on. its ment for smoothing 3d prints.

its kinda nasty stuff. stinks like hell, yellows very quickly. but it hardenes fairly fast and self levels even on vertical surfaces better then table top epoxy.

the trick to any resin smoothing is to add some filler too it. you can use all kinds of things, talc or corn startch are the most common options. adding just a bit of that helps SO much

works with 3d printing resin as well

well for using it for smoothing... probably not a good idea to print with it in there

I am always paranoid when i have to get out the UV resin for something. I have gotten it on my skin once and I get a bad reaction from it. the fumes also give me allot of problems so I have to wear a resperator when working with it (as you always should)

why I dont have a resin printer

[tight river]

yeah, ventilation is important

i only know one person irl who has a resin printer, he has a seperate room for it with a fan directly to outside

[slender oasis]

its important for the 2 part epoxy as well of course. even if its a low smell kind. but ventilaition is hard for me to come by in the winter. esspecially when I need to maintain the temp for the resin to cure

[tight river]

i wish i had the luxury of a spare room to do that

[slender oasis]

same. I have a spray booth I could stick one in and vent outside but that would mean I could only print in the warm months

[tight river]

that's pretty much what i have to do right now already

[slender oasis]

printing resin is temp sensitive as well

[tight river]

my printers are in the garage and it's 6 C in there atm

[slender oasis]

I print to keep warm

lol, when my appartment is getting too cold I find something cool to print so I get the extra heat from that

[tight river]

yeah, i doubt one printer can keep a 20 m2 garage heated

unisulated of course

[slender oasis]

na, cant even keep my little room warm but its better then nothing

[formal cloak]

I created an abomination of a PC cooling, I have my PC cooler(liquid, 480x480 radiator in the window opening.
On 1/4th of the radiator is a fume extractor for my 2 resin printers that are in a junk box I made for them.

[tight river]

hehe, nice

i have plenty of spare fans to build such a thing

[slender oasis]

I made this little thing last year for my spray booth.

hooks up to 4inch dryer hose that runs to a big blower fan ment for grown tents then to the booth

but I can only have it in during the warmer months

[tight river]

i'm still looking for a, preferably broken, restaurant fridge, the ones with a glass door

nice and insulated to put the printers in

turn the printer on to warm it up

[formal cloak]

Trust me, don't waste money on a 480x480 radiator just for PC cooling, it's absolutely useless.

[slender oasis]

lol, that is big enough for a car

[tight river]

i'm perfectly fine with my noctua air cooling

[slender oasis]

same

[tight river]

might do liquid cooling in myt next pc, would love to build a small form desktop pc

[slender oasis]

I dont overclock so between that and the giant noctua air tower thing my CPU has never gone above 50c

[formal cloak]

Or a "PC" that can pull almost 2KW and 4 displays.

[tight river]

600 watt and 3 displays is fine for now

[formal cloak]

I wish my GPUs were that efficient, but I need 2 for my job

[tight river]

do you get compensated for the power bill?😂

[elder linden]

considering if you ever need two gpu's for your job I think the pay makes that bill a non-issue 🤣

[tight river]

I mean, this is the Netherlands we're talking about. If we can, we'd get everything compensated, like for the increased tp-usage when working from home

[formal cloak]

You mean the lack of light and solar panels in front of my windows?

[formal cloak]

Trust me, I usually run on battery power😅

[tight river]

We have solar, but it's doing fuck all the past few weeks

Battery is way out of budget for now

[formal cloak]

I know, the sun left us🥲

To be honest, Tromsø currently has more sun than the Netherlands 🤣

And that's all the way up north

[tight river]

Usually when it's cold there is also sun, but this winter sucks balls

Absolutely despise this kind of weather

[formal cloak]

For the past week I have seen fog, fog everywhere

[tight river]

It's supposed to warm up somewhat later this week, maybe it'll be warm enough to turn on the printer

I had to turn on my fog lights last night, i never had to do that with this car

[formal cloak]

Warm and rain isn't what I am waiting for in winter😐

[formal cloak]

I am simple, I don't drive with these weathers, too much idiots who can't drive.

[tight river]

I don't really have a choice

I'm in a region where public transport sucks and biking in this weather sucks as well

[formal cloak]

And I live on an island

[tight river]

Kinda hard to leave then

[formal cloak]

Last time there was this big pack of snow, (didn't work at animal ambulance yet) and my boss wanted me to go to work.

I told my boss "Ain't happening boss", she asked me why I couldn't because highways were mostly clear, I had to tell her they open the bridges so they don't freeze shut😅

Yep, hard to leave

Island living has its advantages

[elder linden]

"just take your boat smh"

[formal cloak]

I would if I could, even then I would still find an excuse like the robes froze so I can't actually move

[slender oasis]

we have had wind chill of nearly -40 this week

I dont need to say F or C for that because its the magical temp where they are the same

and everyone that go's outside dies

my eyes froze shut walking home from the store the other day

[elder linden]

I mean, it could've been -40K
if you learned how to break thermodynamics

[formal cloak]

Trust me, it's 0°C in the Netherlands but feels like -50, you can ask @tight river as well

[slender oasis]

even with high winds 0c isnt bad compared to what we deal with

[formal cloak]

Well, when that happens it becomes the new 0K😅

[slender oasis]

and worse of all we dont have any snow!

wtf is the point in winter temps without snow?

[formal cloak]

Water cold freezing winds.

With high humidity

[slender oasis]

I live in Minnesota. 70% of the state is water. know all about cold winter fog

[formal cloak]

Tromsø at -20C and 20% humidity feels warmer than 0C with 90% humidity

[slender oasis]

actually dont mind that. its when the air gets so cold that it cant hold any water that and the wind gets up to 30kph constant with gusts in the 60s. frost bite in less then 10mins. eye's frosting up. the water gets sucked out of your skin and lungs in no time. its horrible

[formal cloak]

I live on an island 😐
People say it isn't that special because the other coast is close, but it's bad enough it can be raining on my island and be dry across the river.

[slender oasis]

thankfully its finally warming up. its only -8c with a -15 windchill

it might go above freezing before the end of the week

[formal cloak]

Funny enough, I live in Dordrecht, a small Dutch island with a land mass of almost the size of Paris.

And I want to move to Tromsø, another island.

I guess islands follow me🤣

[slender oasis]

I mean isnt most of the Netherlands island or at least reclaimed land that used to be sea floor?

[formal cloak]

No, and Dordrecht is the oldest city in the Netherlands

[slender oasis]

guess it depends on how you define island. surounded by water on all sides but half of that water is giant rivers. is that an island?

everything I know about the Netherlands says its a very strange place

[elder linden]

seconded

[tight river]

Yup, and we love it for it

And yes, land surrounded by water is an island, even if the water is a river

[formal cloak]

It is considered an island😅

Just don't listen to Nijmegen, they want the title of oldest city, but they ain't the oldest🤣

[hasty leaf]

There are even islands sorrounded from all sides by river waters. 😉

[brisk moth]

when your print is so small it will probably cost more to change away from the expensive filament than to just use it

its a washer/spacer. 20mm across and 5mm thick.

[formal cloak]

Better than printing a mini Banshee boat on a giant printer

[slender oasis]

I try to save up those kinds of mini prints when I can and do a batch but some times you have to do a silly short print job

[brisk moth]

the banshee boat is screaming at your word choice 😛

[slender oasis]

have printed lots of washers, printed washers are actually very useful!

washers/spacers

[formal cloak]

Listen, English is my 2nd language.
We don't have a word for banshee in my native language🤣

[brisk moth]

this one was because my door handle isnt fitted properly, and none of the adjustment points line up. so spacer to take up the slack it is

[formal cloak]

You know, a large resin printer can do it much faster than a FDM printer

[slender oasis]

resin printers are kinda strange how how print times work. the more you can cram into the build volume the better

as each layer takes the same amount of time no matter if its tiny or huge

[brisk moth]

I think I needed it to be a layer thinner

[tight river]

I acquired an old quad, lots of spacers and such are shot. Might be able to replace some with printed parts

[brisk moth]

I also probably should have printed off two at half the thickness, one for either side of the door

[slender oasis]

half my appartment is held together with random 3d printed parts now

[formal cloak]

Exactly

[brisk moth]

the issue there is that you then have a resin printer 😆

[slender oasis]

replaced the large PVC nuts that hold my sink down in the kitchen with 3d printed ones when they broke. have a 3d printed shower drain, my towle rack has a 3d printed glue bandage on it to fix it where it broke in half. my kayak is sitting on 3d printed brakets I made hanging from the wall. my desk is on 3d printed standoffs and the printer desk has to many 3d printed parts to count. I even have some in my chair base

[formal cloak]

I don't know what the issue is other than a an UV chamber and alcohol bath

[brisk moth]

uv resin is nasty stuff

[slender oasis]

3d printer is now my hammer and the world looks like nails

[brisk moth]

the need for ppe and good ventilation. disposal of used stuff, etc

[formal cloak]

But can be extremely sturdy

Also I usr medical safe resin most of the time

[brisk moth]

sure, but thats the end product not the process

[slender oasis]

I would be willing to get a resin printer if I could get my hands on medical or dental grade resin for a sensible price and not having to buy it in industrial quantities

if you know of a way to get some and if you know of a way to make parts printed with them able to be disinfected I would REALLY love to know. I know allot of people that are desperate for that kind of tech

[formal cloak]

Fair enough, the reason I use it is because the product is more sturdy and higher "quality"

[formal cloak]

I let my company buy it as we're only allowed to use medical grade resin 😅

[slender oasis]

from what I understand there are 2 main types of resin that can be made UV curable, Epoxy based and Acrylic based. Acrylic is generally better I think?

annoying thing is you never know what they are, they dont bother telling you. might be able to figure it out from the warnings in the safety data sheet, assuming the company bothers to put one out

I wish acrylic resin was practical for casting at home. I have never found anyone that sales it so I assume it must be fairly nasty stuff or have some crazy curing requirements.

[formal cloak]

That I strongly agree on, I looked on the bottle and all it said was MEDICAL GRADE and some info about the colour

[slender oasis]

what does medical grade even mean?

[formal cloak]

Safe to use inside someone's body

It's almost ceramic like

[slender oasis]

one of the big problems with 3d prints is they cant be cleaned very well. like you should never use 3d printed items for food contact because the layer lines make a wonderful home for microbes

[elder linden]

certified under either ISO 10993 or whichever the american variant of the biocompatibility certificate is

[formal cloak]

This is why there is medical grade resin but not for FDM printers, or well, not that I found

[slender oasis]

I guess cleaning isnt a problem if its an implant but not sure I would want a plastic implant

[tight river]

It also adds a zero or two to the price probably

[elder linden]

knowing ISO probably lmao

[slender oasis]

resin prints still have layer lines that are a problem from what I understand

[formal cloak]

Like I said, almost ceramic like, so it's incredibly tough and light.
Not titanium tough and light, can be used as a temporary measure

[tight river]

I am in the laboratory field, everything with some form of certificate costs a lot more than the regular part

[formal cloak]

But they're much much smaller than on FDM printers'

[elder linden]

it's good to have them though, means the damocles sword doesn't hang over your head

[tight river]

It's often the employers responsibility, not mine😝

[formal cloak]

They are, but our supplier never asks why we use so much😅

[tight river]

They don't care

[elder linden]

trust me, as a supplier, we don't mind you using more 😛

[tight river]

More resin is more income for them

[formal cloak]

We just have the excuse of that we make many prototypes at once

[formal cloak]

Yeah, till we tried to buy TVs, they complained our order was "too much".

[tight river]

You could pour it down the drain. They probably wouldn't care either (the sewage plant will but that's a problem for later

[slender oasis]

platinum silicone is basically the only biocompatible material most people have any kind of access too and even that takes a bit of an investment to get into

[formal cloak]

Nah, not gonna do that, our water and air is already being poisoned in Dordrecht 🤣

[tight river]

By what?

[elder linden]

the dutch, generally

[formal cloak]

Chemours

[tight river]

Oh is that near you? I'm not that familiar with that area

[formal cloak]

Less than 10KM🥲

[formal cloak]

Listen, I understand we are destroying an entire provence for the name of selling gas, doesn't mean we also have to be poisoned 🤣

[tight river]

Why don't we use that gas ourselves, be a lot cheaper if we did😝

There's a lot more problems being pushed north but that's getting close to rule 5 so I'll refrain from continuing

[formal cloak]

I was just joking around with it, but yeah

Fun fact:
Dordrecht is ±100KM², Paris is ±105KM²

But yeah, lets get a giant 3D printer so I can print a chest piece in 1 or 2 goes

[tight river]

But probably not as big a shithole as paris

[formal cloak]

Nah, we're doing pretty well, other than Chemours we're fine, we have our own farmers, forest, ship yards, powerplants, basically everything.

[tight river]

Yes Discord i know i have a mention, I'm in here already stop notifying me

[formal cloak]

I get notified for nothing most of the time.
I get notified in this channel or science specifically, and it hasn't moved for a whole week.

[tight river]

Sounds like discord

[formal cloak]

Pretty much

[humble terrace]

Massive diy activated carbon filter?

[humble terrace]

I can beat that. 8.75mm outside size, 6.4mm inside, 4 mm high

Had to replace some carriage bolts for a car roof cargo carrier, but the shoulders on the new bolts were too small. I legitimately did not know they weren't all just a standard size...

[hasty leaf]

I am not sure if that type of filters are enough to catch all "problems".

[humble terrace]

I don't know for sure, but I do know that I put a DIY carbon filter in an enclosure for my printer, and if the door's closed I can't smell anything. I've used it to dry spray painted parts as well, and you KNOW those stink.

[charred lintel]

Hey, folks. I got a bottle of Wargaming Fauxhammer resin, and advice to mix it with other resins because of its cost. However, it seems to be water-clean while the other resins I have are alcohol- can they be mixed?

[slender oasis]

probably not. I would be wary of mixing resins unless your very sure what the 2 resins actually are because there are a few different types of resins out there and I doubt they are compatible. you wouldnt want to accidently mix an epoxy based resin with an acrylic one.

also wargaming has a specialty 3d printing resin now?

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that is probably over priced Bullshit much like there paints

there are allot of resin manufacturers out there that have WAY more experience making good qaulity resins then what ever WG is selling, hell its probably just a rebraneded resin from one of the big manufacturers anyway

[humble terrace]

Mix a small test batch and see if it cures with a UV light.

As in a few grams.

Of course, also try similar amounts of both source resins on their own

[slender oasis]

if you do that make sure it dosnt get abnormally hot when curing as well...

[charred lintel]

Good to know, thanks

My brother got it for me, and his experience is more with filament printers than resin

[humble terrace]

FWIW, lots of people mix resins, and it apparently usually "just works" but there's really only one way to find out.

[tribal hedge]

#FuckAround

[slender oasis]

all my resin experience is with the normal stuff not printing resins so its totally possible I dont know what I am talking about.

also for cleaning, again I dont know allot. but I am fairly sure that you can clean water washable resins with IPA just fine, but cant go the other way and clean alchohol washable with water

IPA tends to be a fairly universal solvent for uncured resins. cant think of any that wont clean up with it

even works for silicone

[humble terrace]

Alcohols in general are good solvents because they have both polar and non-polar regions, if I remember correctly.

[brisk moth]

just remember, bed level is a frame of reference issue

[formal cloak]

I want to 3D print this
https://youtu.be/OzYTz6K_tiA

[hybrid frigate]

Orrrrrrr, You could print real ones 😛

[tight river]

I think the airsoft one is a felony already, a real one for sure

[hybrid frigate]

Not where I live \o/

[tight river]

I suspected that already

Seeing how 70% of the pictures in this channel are guns made by you😂

[hybrid frigate]

Hmm. scrolls up 70% is maybe a little high, but 😛

[tight river]

It's a guesstimate

[formal cloak]

I can 3D print an airsoft 1 as long as I put a coloured muzzle on it during transport and have the mags on the opposite side of the vehicle.

[tight river]

And join an Airsoft club i think

Wanted to print a magazine (the one I asked advice about in here) for a buddy of mine. Actual replacements are hard to get due to... Geopolitical reasons. We asked permission as the law is kinda vague and the police said 'absolutely not!'

[formal cloak]

Just a general airsoft licence here, and no criminal record of illegally having weapons on you or for armed robbery.

[tight river]

They were a lot stricter with my permit for a real firearm

[formal cloak]

Real firearm licence is very hard to get here

[tight river]

Trust me, i know

I'm Dutch as well

Due to COVID with the lockdowns and shit, it took me 3 years

[formal cloak]

Nice, I only got a licence to carry blades😅

Took me too long to get because of my biological father being a criminal, but I am not

[tight river]

You need a license for that?

[formal cloak]

For swords and longer than a 20cm knife yes.

[tight river]

Ah, like that

I just carry a pocket knife, as a tool, not a weapon

[formal cloak]

Yep, I told them I don't know my biological father but he has attempted multiple times to end my life, so I want to be able to defend myself with more than just my fists.
After a few years I got it luckily.

It's not a fun life to have I can tell ya.

[tight river]

I can imagine that's hard yeah

Honestly I'm surprised you got it at all, they're not keen on people carrying anything

[formal cloak]

I know, but I have like 2 stab wounds on my right hip and vocal cords that have been torn apart when I was younger.

At 1st they told me that if I get attacked I should and I quote "Yell so people can hear me", I am a mute.

[tight river]

Now that sounds like Dutch bureaucracy

[formal cloak]

It was at its finest🤣

[tight river]

Is that license through the city council or the police?

[formal cloak]

Police.
I also got some weapon training through them.
Although it since been more than just that.

[tight river]

Interesting, never heard of that before

[formal cloak]

I don't trust the council because in their words "I should contact my biological father and set things straight"

[tight river]

[formal cloak]

🤣

[humble terrace]

Don't trust anyone that can't be held responsible or punished for their bad decisions / advice.

[formal cloak]

I use to carry his last name because he did change it through illegal means.
So with everything I got punished of stuff I never done.

Took me 2 years of failed attempts to change it back, only for our lawyer to recommend adoption by my current dad.

[humble terrace]

Sorry you had to live through that experience

[formal cloak]

It also gives funny experiences in return.

And I learned something very useful, make good moments out of bad moments and be happy with what you have.

[slender oasis]

feel I should point out that a blade isnt generally the best self defense option. as it was explained to me a knife is a weapon of last resort you only turn to when you know your going to die because its more likely to escilate a situation and there is a good chance it gets taken away from you and used on you. in addition they are harder to use well, take more training. blunt weapons tend to be a better option all around, its hard to beat a good thwacken stick

this is how it was explained to me by a person that taught self defense

[formal cloak]

Escalate the situation, I love when people tell me that when some idiots walks up to me with a knife drawn with the intent of murdering me.

A bigger blade tends to de-escalate the situation against someone with a smaller blade

[slender oasis]

it isnt specific to your situation but a general thing.

and even then, if someone was coming at me with a knife intent on killing me I would rather have a stick/club because its the better weapon

[formal cloak]

Harder to grab or have on me, I thought about it.

[hybrid frigate]

I'm going to stream EDF tonight. As a sort-of prestream while I wait for the team to show up, I'm going to be streaming me cleaning my "thwacken stick". A proper, actually useful, american style one.

I'll probably take the opportunity to compare it to its great great grandfather, the hi-power.

[slender oasis]

hm... this makes things interesting. https://us.elegoo.com/products/centauri-carbon

[humble terrace]

Yeah, especially for the price

And it looks like they'll have a multi material system for it at some point

[slender oasis]

they are syaing 3rd quarter. also there is a cheaper version without the sides. the early price on those is only 200. that is impressive.

going to shake things up a bit.

wish I could justify an upgrade

[humble terrace]

At $200 it means bedslingers are dead

[slim sandal]

bedslingers?

[brisk moth]

printers that move the bed back and forward. sling it you could say

[slim sandal]

so they make one axis on the bed instead of all 3 on the print head

seems like abigger liability than a three axis print head

[brisk moth]

notable examples of bedslingers being... the Prusa mk3 (and mk2) and all their clones. the infamaous anet a8, creality ender3, bambu a1 mini, etc

[brisk moth]

not really, giving one thing too many degrees of freedom can have its own issues.

[slender oasis]

there are always 3 axis of movement on the head and one on the bed, bed slinger just swaps one of them, Y for Z

the downside too it is the Y axis moves allot faster and allot more then Z and seeing as the bed is the heaviest moving part of the printer if you want speed with minimal ringing then its better for the faster ones to all be on the head instead.

there is a big downside to core XY, the belt system is much more complex and generally hard to service. bed slingers are much easier

[hasty leaf]

Extruder head aint the heaviest part to move at FDM, not bad?

[slender oasis]

the bed tends to be heavier, even worse it gets heavier as you print

that is actually a big problem for input shaping

[celest path]

My printer is making noise pls help

[hybrid frigate]

Is something in one of the fans?

[celest path]

Maybe… I’m new to 3d printing so I wouldn’t know

[brisk moth]

yeah, that sounds like it could be something caught in one of the fans. have a look in them and see if you can see any tiny wisps of plastic

[celest path]

👍

Tks

At least I stopped the printer from making the spaghetti monster

[tight river]

Yeah i second the idea of the fans, might also be something loose somewhere. Check for any loose fasteners?

[humble terrace]

I'm so distracted by the awful high pitched whine that I can't really think much about the more scratchy sound

[celest path]

Ahh… sorry about that… I was using my laser cutter earlier and forgot to turn off the window fan

[celest path]

Figured it out

[main minnow]

well boys, the time has come. i have ordered a bambu labs a1 3d printer

[humble terrace]

With AMS Lite too?
Multi color printing's pretty neat.

I can say I'm quite happy with my Bambu P1S combo. A bit worried about the possible changes to the slicer / firmware ecosystem, but I don't think we're going to get screwed

[elder linden]

discord you mentally slow piece of crap

[humble terrace]

Yeah I had the same issue. Just gave up.

[mossy urchin]

It's actually an issue with video recorded through the mobile app.
If you send that same video from the gallery it seems to work fine again

Also: BetterDiscord Hell yeaaahh

[main minnow]

just uhh... i do now need to actually learn 3d printing steps beyond have 3d model

[humble terrace]

The Bambu stuff is pretty stratightforward.

[main minnow]

i do also have to acquire some storage bins for parts. at current this is so i can begin mass production of parts for a warhammer 40k terrain board project

[mossy urchin]

You mainly need storage bins for filament, if you don't have that already.
Ohh and get some silica packs! (I've heard there are reusable ones that you throw in the microwave to re-enable)

[tight river]

Some are even coloured and change colours when they are full

[mossy urchin]

what's your go-to air-tight-ish filament storage?

I've heard buckets with screw-on-lids are popular?

[tight river]

I just have a big tub with a lid

[humble terrace]

I bought a bulk 5lb pack of reusable desiccant with color indicator off amazon. Same one is currently available for $30.
I just have it in the original container, open lid, inside my large metal enclosure, which isn't QUITE sealed, but close.

I also printed out a set of dessiccant holders designed to go inside my AMS, so those 4 spools are definitely kept dry.

This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7OE6WK

[main minnow]

what i meant was the 3d printed parts

although

i could just 3d print one

hmmmmm

[mossy urchin]

It should be pretty airtight and large enough for the spools tho xD

Which might both be fairly difficult

[humble terrace]

Airtight enclosures for spools would probably be a bad case for printing.

Especially when things like 5 gallon buckets can be had rather cheaply

I bet someone could probably design some, say, frame / edge / corner pieces, and fill in the panels with something like PETG sheets cut from 2L pop bottles. Or Coroplast sheets.

I'll let someone else spend the time thinking about that.

[main minnow]

the container for parts oi have printed. now in terms of a container for the spools.. buckets

that is the plan i have chosen to go with

kind of

a bucket will be heavily modified

the first spool or two are gonna go fast. the current thing is i have to very swiftly have a turn around time on printing out.. alot of things for multiple projects

[hasty leaf]

its 4 years old but still impressive if someone did not seen it.
https://youtu.be/-rZgw9aSec0?si=oSHryNHh6WapJN6f

[bold elm]

I just want to vent in here that cleaning out the IPA and swapping fep sheets is a giant pain in the dick.

on a resin printer.

[formal cloak]

Curiosity, I don't have an FDM printer and was thinking on getting 1.

I was eying on the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max.
Now my curiosity comes into play, can I connect a 2nd head onto the printer?

[shell viper]

2nd head as in a second extruder for different filament (color and/or material )?

iirc that is not an officially supported upgrade, someone else here might know more.

that being said iirc adding some kind of mult filament changer like a mosaic(expensive option? like $800 USD) might be a supported option? But that's from like a 5 minute google search. again someone else probably would know more.

sofar my many colors have been from manual filament changers or just painting the model.

[formal cloak]

2nd extruder, it doesn't have a way to add a 2nd filament, or not that I know off.

I want at least a dual filament printer so I can use a water soluble(correct word?) as support.

[shell viper]

is this for dual color prints or for support material?

oh

i see

[formal cloak]

I don't mind to get another as long it's not surpassing 1K

I just have no idea what's a good FDM printer

[shell viper]

cool use case. i think that's outside what the Neptune 4 Max is intended to support as far as included upgrades. but it looks like elegoo might be working on something for multi-color printing end of this year?

[formal cloak]

I kinda need it before summer😅

[shell viper]

lol

well hopefully someone here has a better solution.

[formal cloak]

Suggestions are welcome 😅

[shell viper]

cause from what I see, at that price point bambu might be the better option. not that I'm a fan of what they are doing right now locking down ecosystem wise >,> sofar it's more precedent wise. and i'm not sure they have the build volume you seem to be wanting.

[formal cloak]

As long it isn't smaller than 20cm x 20cm

[shell viper]

oh well they have 256mm x 256 for most of their printers except the mini.

but this from someone who's looked in on the hobby for quite a while, but only recently dipped their feet in with a FlashForge Adventurer 5m Pro. what are you hoping to make with water soluble supported prints (if I may ask)?

[tight river]

I have seen people print with different materials so the supports break away easily

[formal cloak]

So I can make the proto prints wet and the support will disappear into the water?

[shell viper]

ah, yeah then you were probably on the right path with dual extruders but idk about sub 1k

[warm tinsel]

i know someone who used that support stuff, he made anatomical skull models and needed the inside printed correctly but did not want the supports to remain, so he filled it up with the support and gave it a long dip in water to wash it out. came out real nice

think he used some dual extruder printer, but i forgot the name. can ask

[main minnow]

well, tommorrow is test print day

was originally gonna be yesterday but.. forgot. and then got sidetracked today

[main minnow]

Test complete...

[humble terrace]

Very nice

[slender oasis]

ever get the feeling you bit off more then you can chew? I just bought this... https://www.gambody.com/premium/uss-enterprise-ncc-1701-d

[brisk moth]

yes, you definitely have

insane model though

[slender oasis]

I am thinking about a month of printing

maybe another month for sanding and smoothing

but having a giant Enterprise D hanging from my ceiling will be cool

[brisk moth]

definitely

[mossy urchin]

i think I've seen this exact model in an LTT Ultimate Tech upgrade 🤔

[brisk moth]

let us know what it weighs/how much filament you used too, I dont really have any reference for something printed that bag

[mossy urchin]

Dang that's some really fine detail!

not really in the 3D-Printing field yet but I would've thought that this small scale detail would only be possible with resin

[humble terrace]

Apparently you can do some pretty impressive stuff with 0.2mm nozzles, though I still run the standard 0.4mm.
I've got a Mars Pro if I need to run anyting more detailed. Not that it's particularly great or anything by today's standards.

[mossy urchin]

I mean that could literally be machine marks from an injection mold 😳

[humble terrace]

only if they chewed out the mold with a dull beaver

or worse, a dull apprentice

[main minnow]

They came out far from perfect mind you

Backs of the turrets and the thrusters are scuffed

[humble terrace]

Eh, don't sweat it. It'll pass the 50/50 rule. (learned that when fixing fiberglass body panels for a race car I was crewing for)
If it looks good from 50 feet at 50 miles an hour, it's good enough!

[slender oasis]

is that done with a 0.2mm nozzle? I wish i had a quick change hot end of some kind so I could swap easily.

I am trying to maximize the detail I can get using a 0.4mm nozzle printing 0.6 and 0.8mm lines on this giant Enterprise model...

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1355907650780397638/IMG_20250330_091141389.jpg?ex=67eaa2e7&is=67e95167&hm=0e871217c7d6ecf1780d9d7cdbddf41275f97802df5c90934dd5ff152bfbb95d&

this one is at 0.8mm line width. it would be slightly cleaner at 0.6 and almost no different at 0.4 but these parts are all taking so long I am using 0.8 anywhere I can

my crappy phone cam refusing to focus as always dosnt help but it looks fairly good

[humble terrace]

Sounds like a good case for a larger nozzle

[slender oasis]

why?

I dont think I want to print this at 1.2mm line width

I am going to try one of the parts with 0.8 for inner wall line width and 0.6 for outer. see if I can get the best of both worlds. I tried this once before but the results actually looked worse, I dont know why but maybe I did something wrong

[humble terrace]

Because it's a really big model?

I guess if you still want the finer detail then that's not a great plan.

[slender oasis]

I am having to print allot of this at 0.12-0.16 layer height to get the detail I want. still using the larger line widths where I can as it has less inpact on the details as long as you use archnie but this thing is going to take for ever. I am looking at around 40 large parts, I can double them up and the print time is averaging around 16hrs per pair.

so minimum of a month worth of printing when you count the smaller stuff as well

that is if I avoid overnight printing like I normally do

[main minnow]

Batch two of ships: corvettes ×3

(One of yesterday's prints for scale)

[humble terrace]

I might have to start printing out a fleet myself. Buddy's trying to get me in to "A Billion Suns: Interstellar Fleet Battles"

[main minnow]

These ships from hardware studios were made for that game

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-consortium-spacefleet-stl-megapack-222251

[humble terrace]

Heh, didn't even realize that. Neat!

[main minnow]

The funny thing is your the second person I had damn near that same convo with today

Many people shall join me in printing off these fleets

[humble terrace]

I'm a cheap ass, so I'm probaby going to grab something off thingiverse, makerlabs makerworld, or printables

Though I will admit what you've got are some damned fine looking models

[main minnow]

(I convinced like three people to print of miniships even as just desk ornaments)

I love the tiny ships

[slender oasis]

what about big ships?

progress so far https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1356260627479400671/IMG_20250331_083416367.jpg?ex=67ebeba3&is=67ea9a23&hm=4480650d8366605516c252359d5c279524170f7c5750074c7ae0d7bfca9652bc&

[mossy urchin]

Wait how many parts is that already!?

[slender oasis]

8

[mossy urchin]

Ahh that explains

[slender oasis]

10 more large parts for the lower hull. Then like 30 for the saucer

[mossy urchin]

Yeesh

[slender oasis]

so I get a bit of an odd issue. I often print at either 0.6 or 0.8mm line width from a 0.4mm nozzle. I have often wanted to print 0.6 or 0.4mm lines on the external parimeters of parts to get better quality and use 0.8 for the inner lines for improved str and printing time. however any time I try and combine narrow outer lines with thicker inner lines for the walls like this I run into odd bits of under extrusion near corners. anyone know why this might happen? it does not happen when printing all the same width of line regardless of line width.
my printer does not have pressure advance or similar.

[slender oasis]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/818257911699734538/1356728600564465664/IMG_20250401_153427538.jpg?ex=67ed9f79&is=67ec4df9&hm=2a58d4d046a8cc832e92cff3f6f7f859baae2fc45c747b5ecdc71575a3334956&

this is the under extrusion I am talking about, along that edge at the front

[humble terrace]

Your supports appear to show similar, but more sporadic underextrusion as well?

[slender oasis]

I always seem to get a little under extrusion on the supports, and I print supports at 0.4mm line width because why waste the filament to print them thick... so yeah I dont know. I suspect this is all a side effect of not having pressure advance

[slender oasis]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/445610544162930699/1357561477657133087/IMG_20250403_224416761.jpg?ex=67f0a726&is=67ef55a6&hm=ec64d84982be984199bfce21cfe5b98cd37afba894df25f7861ab561330cec06&

[humble terrace]

Not wasting any time with this one!

[slender oasis]

printer go Brrrrr

I am using every trick I have to get the printing time down on these parts without loosing the details

[tight river]

Was having lots of issues with my printer, under and overextrusion even while freshly leveled, scraping on infill, massive layer shifts

I tried a lot of things, and just now found out a belt somehow loosened itself, it fixed everything 🙃

[brisk moth]

belts do stretch over time

[tight river]

Nah this wasn't stretch, it was very loose

The knob might have vibrated itself loose, anyway, it's fixed now

[slender oasis]

what axis was it?

[tight river]

X

[slender oasis]

I tend to do a preflight check on my printer before starting a job. check the belts, check for wobble in the head, look around the printer to make sure I have not left something sitting in a place that is going to get in the way (had my z axis blocked by an open drawer on my screw bin once!) and make sure the nozzle is clean and free of the fuzzies

[tight river]

I... just send it

[slender oasis]

my desk is always such a mess I have to make sure I dont have something blocking the z axis from coming down all the way. I almost always do

[tight river]

my printer has it's own space, i dont even have space to put anything there

it takes up the entire shelf

[humble terrace]

And, you know, make sure you've actually removed the previous print from the build plate before starting the new one... Oops. one of only two failures on my P1S...

[tight river]

Just remote the fans on full blast, blow the part of the bed

[slender oasis]

lol, I would have to be fairly out of it to make that mistake seeing as I cant start prints remotely

[tight river]

I have yet to connect mine to the internet, if i did, i could remote operate it i think

[slender oasis]

at 1.5kg of filament used so far for this thing

I am going to say just shy of 4kg total for this

I am wondering how I should handle the windows on this model.

the blank windows (lights off) I can just paint black but not sure about the lit windows. I kinda dont like the idea of just leaving them as holes and I am really tempted to put some masking on the back then fill them all with slightly tinted epoxy or UV resin. if I did that I would probably want to fill them all so they all look like glass

but that seems like an idea that could go very wrong

[tight river]

How big are these windows?

[slender oasis]

about 2x6mm or so

maybe 1.5

[tight river]

What do you think would go wrong with resin?

[slender oasis]

well if it ends up looking like crap it would be next to impossible to remove. seeing as it would need to be done after most of the painting is done, that could be allot of lost time and work

[tight river]

Print a small sample piece to try it out?

[slender oasis]

yeah, would for sure want to do a test first. not sure how much if at all I should tint the resin either. with the lights off it will be mostly dark inside the model but with so many windows and the inside needing to be painted a light color to help spread the light around I am worried that no tint might let you see the ship is just hollow and ruin the illusion when the internal lighting is turned off but room lights are on

if I tint it too much it will require too much internal lighting to get the effect i want

[tight river]

Could paint the inside with a reflective paint

[slender oasis]

yeah, I was planning to use the silver paint i have left over from another project... unless I used it all. will have to check

its that or white

other thing I need to figure out is how I want to power this.

I would kinda like to leave it lit all the time but I dont fancy having a cord running too it, esspecially with it hanging from the ceiling

[tight river]

Will it be near a window?

[slender oasis]

no and i dont have any sun light coming in my room anyway as it can kill me

[tight river]

Hmm, light without power cords.... Tritium vial behind each window

[slender oasis]

lol, first off I dont want my ship to look like its been assimilated. second that would cost a literal fortune. those things are like 30-40 bucks each if you can find a supplier

[tight river]

LEDs and a big ass battery then

[mossy urchin]

Nah man a couple years ago I got like 4 tritium sticks for about 10 bucks

[slender oasis]

I wonder if a 50ah lifepo would fit in there...

[mossy urchin]

Like the small 2mm ones.
They also come in so many colors