Yeah i purge about an inch, or until the next colour comes out uniformly
#3D Print Gulag
tight river
humble terrace
I've never bothered with an explicit cleaning filament, I just run enough of the next color through so that I don't see any of the old color.
The big ol globs of different color there though, makes me think your PTFE tube isn't pushed in as far as it should be, leaving a gap and a large chamber of questionable plastic.
I paid for the whole build plate, I'm going to USE the whole build plate!
https://www.printables.com/model/208913-wooden-blocks-connector
Had 3 or so partially fail, but printer managed to eventually get good layers down after that, so only lost two or three, and even those are salvageable.
slender oasis
how often does the ptfe heat break in a hot end need replaced and how do you know when it needs done?
humble terrace
I've not gotten to that point yet. My failure mode will probably end up being "too short" after I end up trimming a quarter inch any time there's a major blockage.
I'd bet the long term failure mode is internal abrasion causing the ID to become larger, causing filament to be more likely to bind up and cause extrusion issues???
Total guess though.
brisk moth
one of the signs of a ptfe tube that needs trimming is extra stringing, it will likely exhibit similar symptoms to a partial clog. a non-symptomatic way to check is to pull it out and have a look at it. if it looks fine then it is, if it doesnt look fine then it isnt
tight river
I've been printing 1.5 years with the one that came with the printer now, no signs of wear
slender oasis
so basically if your not printing stuff that is pushing the temps that ptfe can handle it will last a long time
humble terrace
Abrasive filaments could be problematic?
slender oasis
maybe, not sure. from the spare ptfe tube my printer came with it looks like they are a fair bit bigger then the filament so I wouldnt think they would rub to much on the tube.
but sense I am just doing normal PLA for now it will probably be a while before I need to worry about it.
I do want to get into some abrasive filaments at some point. really want to play with the metal filled ones. will need to get a hardened steel nozzle, probably a 0.8mm one as I have heard that anything smaller then that clogs up really bad with the metal or wood filled stuff
brisk moth
Ptfe tubing ID is typically 2mm, which provides a decently snug fit for 1.75mm filament. 2.85mm filament used 3mm ID tubing I believe. Some reverse Bowden setups also use 3mm tubing for 1.75 filament because the constrained path doesn't matter quite so much
hybrid frigate
Huh. Prusa is releasing a 75% tungsten filament .
They are advertising it for radiation shielding
slender oasis
lol wat
and what nozzle should you use for THAT?
I dont even want to think about the price.
besides, I thought allot of plastics were already really good for radiation shielding
at 75% your prints would be SO heavy as well
brisk moth
75% by what, volume? weight? cost(😆)?
slender oasis
"It is necessary to use a hardened steel nozzle. Tungsten powder is a highly abrasive material and may damage a brass nozzle."
yeah I think your going to need something better then hardened steel
brisk moth
may
hahaha
slender oasis
I am not even sure the ruby ones would last
I want to know how long that 1KG spool actually is
brisk moth
I doubt the tungsten powder is hardened. sure its going to be more abrasive than most fills, but nozzles are consumables anyway.
slender oasis
because I bet its only about 5m or something silly
I know its insane but I want some
brisk moth
it has approximately 3x the density of their normal PETG (4g/cm3 vs 1.27g/cm3). so you are getting a bit under a third the length/volume
slender oasis
3x, that seems odd given the percentage. so it must be by weight not by volume
brisk moth
Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol Copolymer filled with tungsten
powder (75 % in mass)
its by mass
slender oasis
I wonder if some of the copper filled filaments might actually be denser then.
almost the same for color fabs copper Density: ~3.9 g·cm^-3
I bet that mass is dictated by the machines. going higher then that probably causes extrusion problems or slumping while printing or something
brisk moth
or it needs so much resin to be printable in the first place
slender oasis
na, because that copper filament would have a much higher ratio by volume then the tungsten
at around 4 g per ccm that is almost 1.6x the density of aluminum and half the density of steel, so parts made from it would have a good heft to them but not silly heavy. to bad, that was the main reason I would want it.
I am assuming they went with PETG because it is one of the plastics that on its own provides some good shielding? if I remember right HDPE was good and its a close relative
brisk moth
why do you need mass? is it just to give a part heft?
slender oasis
I think either PEEK or PTFE was also really good but I dont even want to imagine what the price would be for tungsten filled versions of those D:
mostly yeah
brisk moth
fill voids with sand then 😛
slender oasis
it would be funny to print a mini and then plunk it down on the table with a heavy Thunk
brisk moth
or lead shot
slender oasis
not as fun
you can electro plate your prints in copper then melt out the plastic and fill it with some other low melt metal like tin or lead. but that is allot of work
brisk moth
I heated up my bed to 95c.. I really need to level my bed. but I dun wanna /tantrum
slender oasis
bed leveling... whats that?
brisk moth
something that I needed to redo (better than I did) after pulling the bed off
slender oasis
what do you use to view your mesh like that?
brisk moth
G32
Manual corrections required: 0.00 turn up (0.00mm) 2.03 turn down (1.42mm) 2.83 turn down (1.98mm) 0.94 turn down (0.65mm)
bleh
thats the height map view in DWC (the web interface for RRF)
slender oasis
I dont know what any of those acronyms stand for 😛
brisk moth
> G32
> Manual corrections required: 0.00 turn up (0.00mm) 2.03 turn down (1.42m...
I can never remember which way is up or down, and I am also unsure which knob each is referring to
DWC: Duet Web Control
RRF: RepRap Firmware
slender oasis
ah, my bed is fixed so no adjustment is really possible. unless I wanted to unbolt it and use shim washers or something. it just uses the autoleveling mesh.
brisk moth
mine has seemed like it hasnt been using its mesh in the last few prints ive done
slender oasis
make sure your slicer is adding the command to use it to the start code?
if yours requires that, some firmware dosnt
brisk moth
it is. I verified that just before. but my bed is significantly out of whack, so I need to fix that first
slender oasis
the Neptune's like I have, have that built in so no need to add a command to the G code.
brisk moth
I think rrf lets you have a script that runs before a print. would need to dig deeper. maybe later (likely not 😆)
brisk moth
I can never remember which way is up or down, and I am also unsure which knob ea...
its likely to be in the order the levelling screws were defined (which might not be the most accurate since I moved one of the endstops recently)
slender oasis
sigh my under extrusion problem came back. stupid cura. I hate that I am forced to choose between cura printing WAY faster then stuff sliced in prusa but with random quality problems like this or prusa just being slow as shit because it does increadibly stupid tool paths for its sold infill crap
brisk moth
what I do need is a better bed than the one my ender3 came with. its got a bit of taco to it
slender oasis
I managed to get the printing time difference down to about 25% slower with prusa, better then the 50 it was before but it still adds up really fast on big prints
dont most ender3 users clamp a glass sheet to them instead?
brisk moth
I do have a glass plate, but I stopped using that when I got my PEI sheet
brisk moth
plus I want to be able to print PETG occasionally
slender oasis
oh right, cant do that on glass... at least not more then once
brisk moth
anywho, getta head off now (food time). ciao
tight river
Tungsten filament? Better buy a diamond nozzle then
I print petg regularly on tape
Pretty much everything i printed worked on tape
viscid violet
Ruby or diamond polymer would last fine.
viscid violet
I think either PEEK or PTFE was also really good but I dont even want to imagine...
You can't print with ptfe. Its not a thermoplastic material. You can use it as a powder and binder the same way you can with the tungsten or anything else, but not as the base filament.
slender oasis
PEI is what I ment. Ultim or what ever the band name is. I always mix them up.
viscid violet
Yeah pei would do. Need a balls to the wall printer for it
slender oasis
yeah, super high temps
both of them, PEEK and PEI. heard they are some of the hardest things to print with. but they are the fancy aero space plastics so I guess its the ones people want
better be amazing stuff for 300 bucks a kg
viscid violet
I mold polysulfone on a daily basis. 600-725F process temps. Shit chemical resistance but very hard, strong material.
And a lot cheaper than those
High hardness with a lot of flexibility oddly enough
slender oasis
I do love how PEI looks, that is a really wonderful amber color
looks like your parts are made of honey
how do you get high hardness and flexibility?
well I guess that basically describes spring steel...
viscid violet
It's not a sliding scale from one end to the other lol
Its hard enough that when we get bits stuck in the mold it easily dents the steel
It deforms too, don't get me wrong. Its not as hard as steel
But softer stuff just pancakes paper thin before denting anything
slender oasis
I would love to be able to do injection molding at home
humble terrace
I've seen some examples of surprisingly accessible DIY setups
viscid violet
You can but it'll cost a bit.
If you want good performance parts though it'll cost you a pretty penny through more advanced process controls. Injection molding is not as simple as melt, squeeze, and cool.
humble terrace
You mean to say that something that typically costs a minimum of 10's of thousands of dollars to get setup might be complicated? SHOCKED!
viscid violet
Well, I mean to say that the diy stuff is more casting than injection molding
You can buy a whole ass used small tonnage machine for a few grand
slender oasis
seen some good DIY setups for it but the problem is they can only handle very small parts. like molding minis and stuff smaller then that
viscid violet
You'll be in it 15 to 20 grand minimum by the time you make your first 3d printed mold and get shots though
humble terrace
Well, I mean to say that the diy stuff is more casting than injection molding
What exactly is meant by that? Is pressure the difference? Conceptually, "casting" to me, an outsider with no particular experience in the matter, does actually sound like a decent description.
viscid violet
Precision control over rapid injection rates, volumes, and pressures.
slender oasis
but do you need that for DIY?
viscid violet
Or at least relative precision. Just squeezing it in by hand is barely more than casting
Not if you're making figures. Definitely if you're producing mechanical, engineered parts
Even if it's small run qtys
You'll have way too much variation in dimensions and strength trying to do them by hand unless they're grossly oversized for strength
And have a lot of slop designed in for fitment
slender oasis
for me the main point is to be able to make small parts in larger batches faster then printing and solid with no layer line problems. you can do that at home for under a thousand bucks if you make the press your self.
slender oasis
for me the main reason I would want one is as a way to recycle print waste. I would be just as happy with a way to make halfway decent filament at home too
humble terrace
Depending on the parts in question, printing a single positive, then creating a silicone mold around it, and epoxy pouring. Might be a good alternative.
viscid violet
You can extrude pellets as well and save way more money
Epoxy is also a good substitute often.
slender oasis
epoxy is exspensive as hell
viscid violet
Not as expensive per kg as most filaments
humble terrace
IMO: 3d printing really has the potential to shine when you're not using it for finished parts, but tooling / jigs / molds /etc. Do the relatively slow things once, and use the output for fast things.
slender oasis
true but failed prints, brims and supports are just waste otherwise
viscid violet
But it is a bit more wasteful on the mind requirement, however you still have that mold requirement for molding
slender oasis
lol, also silicone for the molds is REALLY exspensive
viscid violet
IMO: 3d printing really has the potential to shine when you're not using it for ...
Eh.
There's a lot of mid volume print services out there that can beat molding for economy of scale up to amounts in the tens of thousands
humble terrace
That's a bit surprising to me. Interesting.
slender oasis
the pain of platinum cure silicone costs... I hate it
slender oasis
I actually ordered some epoxy resin the other day, should be ariving in a few hours
viscid violet
An msla printer can expose the whole bed in one shot. Seconds per layer. Even if you have 4 or 400 parts the layer time is the same.
slender oasis
table top stuff (self leveling) going to see if its any good for smoothing prints because the sanding and filling and sanding and filler primer and sanding and primer again and sanding... its driving me up the damn wall
viscid violet
So you just build a massive msla printer and suddenly you can potentially make hundreds of parts an hour.
With a well optimized process I can probably do an inch an hour with my hobbyist machine, so if you have a 2 inch tall part if it's 1 or a thousand it's 2 hours. Just a matter of how big the machine is.
I'd bet industrial ones could be faster with higher power uv
humble terrace
An msla printer can expose the whole bed in one shot. Seconds per layer. Even if...
On that: I predict that with improved resins being developed, MSLA will mostly overtake FFF printers.
slender oasis
yeah, that is the cool things about SLA
viscid violet
Only reason it won't is the mess and post processing
But at scale it's well worth it
humble terrace
I think even the Mars 2 mono line is something like 2s exposure per layer
viscid violet
Oh and no multimaterial capabilities
slender oasis
I think FDM will be around for a while. I really dont want to deal with those chemicals any more then I have to. I hate resins
I just no I am going to make an epic mess with this epoxy and end up hating life
viscid violet
I think even the Mars 2 mono line is something like 2s exposure per layer
I have their saturn. It varies a lot depending on material and other times
Exposure might be around 2s but you still have peel and lift times plus a pause needed for resin flow.
humble terrace
Yeah, I've got a Mars Pro, but that's before they did mono. Layers on the order of 8s or so.
At least now there is a mono upgrade available.
slender oasis
I saw something about UV catalized slicone being developed. if soon you can print in silicone that would be epic
screw TPU
viscid violet
Resin is already king for molds
Don't even need silicone unless you need the flexibility for demolding around undercuts
slender oasis
silicone is for allot more then molds.
humble terrace
And the resolution's CLOSE to a machined part, IIRC. Something like 2 thou.
viscid violet
We use resin cavities for prototyping
viscid violet
And the resolution's CLOSE to a machined part, IIRC. Something like 2 thou.
Can be better than that even
slender oasis
anything rubber, silicone is king. want RC car tires, Silicone would blow TPU out of the water if you could print with it
humble terrace
I'm JUST talking cheap consumer grade stuff
viscid violet
Yeah so am I lol
humble terrace
Yeah, my Mars is 50 micron, which is 2 thou.
viscid violet
It'll do better than that with an 8k screen and some patience, plus AA
Most resins can easily handle 10 micron layer height
brisk moth
whats the XY though?
viscid violet
Whatever the screen is
humble terrace
the 50 I was talking about is the XY.
viscid violet
Most be a low res screen then
humble terrace
Yep. Low end consumer grade.
I haven't printed anything on my resin printer in a while. I should fix that.
(After I print out a batch of speedloaders on my Ender...)
viscid violet
Well no
The new 8k saturn is 28.5 micron
And that's still a cheap consumer printer
slender oasis
an SLA printer would have been really nice for doing the guns on my ship. I am sure I will get one at some point but its kind of a toss up between a laser engraver/cutter or an SLA printer. about the same cost, both have the problem that I would have to vent them outside. not sure what one I would get more use out of
humble terrace
Don't underestimate the capabilities of a good enclosure and filtering setup
viscid violet
In practice it blurs so much it's indistinguishable from a molded part on x and y anyways and the layer height is all you really see.
It just means it can't have features smaller than that of course but who needs that
slender oasis
I am to sensitive to chemical smells. I would have to vent it
brisk moth
everyone should vent
slender oasis
stuff is not good for ya
brisk moth
and simply not have a resin printer if you have birds
slender oasis
and for laser, you absolutly must vent those. I mean that is smoke
humble terrace
I've spray painted stuff and tossed them in my enclosure to dry, don't smell a thing a few minutes after it's closed up.
Yeah, with you on the laser part.
viscid violet
Humans adjust to the presence of smells too though.
Our brains just filter out anything that lingers long enough
slender oasis
true, just because you cant smell it dosnt mean its not melting your brain cells
viscid violet
I couldn't smell the fact that my truck reeked of gear oil for years at my last job
slender oasis
now that I cant understand
viscid violet
I worked with it every day
slender oasis
I got gear oil in the cab of my truck, the smell NEVER went away and I never got used to it
I hate gear oil
viscid violet
It wasn't just in my truck. I dealt with it 8 to 12 hours a day lol
I smelled like gear oil for years
slender oasis
you would think someone would make a low sulfur gear oil
viscid violet
Showering was a whole procedure and I had to double check with my gf after lol
humble terrace
I couldn't smell the fact that my truck reeked of gear oil for years at my last ...
Gear oil is a smell I will never forget.
Back around high school time, did pit crew for a friend. Quick change gears in rear-end, would have to swap a fair bit to dial in for different tracks...
slender oasis
another downside to UV resin for me is it can inhibit plat cure silicone. if you are super carful to make sure its 100% cured you can sometimes get away with it but its always a risk
it is by far the stinkiest chemical that go's in cars/trucks
sigh well off to the hardware store to buy even more filler primer... someone save me, this damn ship is never going to be finished
I really need either a filament that is easy to sand or some better way to smooth prints
a filament I can print without an enclosure
slender oasis
so I was told by a number of different people and found the same advice in a number of searches online, that wood filler was a really good alternative to bondo style glazing putty or spot putty for filling and smoothing 3d prints. if anyone tells you this they are full of shit.
it seems to work and maybe if your only going to use water based paints on it and dont need it to last very long it might be ok... but if your going to be using an paints with stronger solvents or your you want that paint job to last. dont use it. its worthless
first step in paint prep is always clean the part with a degreaser, generally alcohol would be your best bet for a 3d print as most of the other solvents that can be used would damage the plastic. well alcohol removes wood filler almost instantly. the acetone in most spray paints also softens it and so it tends to flake off. unless your painting with latex paints (what its made for) its just going to fall apart in the paint process
viscid violet
I could have told you that lol
Been using alcohol to remove wood filler for pretty much my whole life
Never tried spray paint on it though, so that's new, but makes sense.
I don't envy yall doing finished work, though I might try my hand at it soon. Working on designing up a mount for an android auto rear view mirror and want it to look like it belongs in the car.
elder linden
Didnt know android made cars now
Joking aside, I'm getting closer to finally ordering my first printer 😁
humble terrace
One of us! One of us!
viscid violet
I'm also going to investigate the possibility of embedding the rear camera in the third brake light of my car, if I can find a used on for fairly cheap to not bork up the original part in case it doesn't work.
slender oasis
I need to get a good dust mask as well. this dust is not good, also not fond of getting it all over my room. I really need a better option then this for finishing
slender oasis
I'm also going to investigate the possibility of embedding the rear camera in th...
being for a car I am guessing you wont be using PLA as it will just melt. I would use ASA because not only can it handle the heat it can actually be sanded unlike PETG or PLA... but I guess you have the option for some of the more exotic materials
I am thinking of switching to ASA in hopes that its easier to do finishing work on. but I dont know how well it will do without a proper enclosure. was going to see if it would work ok with some cardboard setup as a draft shield
viscid violet
I'll be using either cf nylon or gf polypropylene. Leaning on the propylene as the layer adhesion is primo and stiffness is slightly less important here. But I'll have to buy some once I finalize the design.
tight river
No tungsten filament? 😜
viscid violet
You first
slender oasis
I dont even want to think about trying to sand either of those D:
they are both plastics known for toughness and being somewhat flexible. maybe the carbon or glass would help make it sand a little better but then you just add the nightmare that is sanding carbonfiber or fiberglass to the mix... just no
I would think Polypropylene is 1 step up from trying to sand rubber
viscid violet
Propylene sands fine. It's the low surface energy for paint that's the issue lol
slender oasis
yeah, I bet getting paint to stick to that would be very tricky
HDPE is also hard but I have been told you can get that one to take paints and glues if you give it a light torching
just mixed up my first batch of epoxy resin and painted a test part with it (well its now a test part because I broke the damn thing) it dosnt have any smell but the fumes from it are making my eyes sting... not good.
it also didnt look like it was sticking to the PLA very well. it would slide off areas and the area it was on looked dry. that is worrying
slender oasis
so the epoxy looks like it might actually be a good option. what I used was a table top epoxy and it was dirt cheap on amazon, only 11 bucks for about half a liter. I didnt think it would work well on vertical surfaces but it actually stuck to the sides quite well without that much dripping. it didnt stick very well to the PLA at all but I am fairly sure that can be fixed by just hitting the part with some primer first. I also forgot to hit it with the heat gun to pop the bubbles so the surface on my test has bubbles in it. it will only work for smooth shapes as it will kinda round over any details. for most people using UV resin instead is probably a better option but I cant use that as it inhibits platinum cure silicone and I am making a mold from this. that sucks, the UV resin would be SO much faster, this stuff takes 24-72hr to fully cure depending on thickness and as this is a very thin coat its probably going to be closer to the 72hr mark.
humble terrace
Maybe a slightly thinner viscosity wouldn't cover as many details?
Slightly increased pouring temperature? Would have to balance viscosity vs increased cure rate...
brisk moth
/sigh, this print really wants to layer shift. It's happened over about four different prints with a fresh slice on a new STL each time
slender oasis
I wouldnt think its the slicing that is causing it unless your trying to print at very high speeds or accelerations. is the part breaking from from the bed? if its not shifting on the bed then I think you need to go over your motion works, check your belts and all that
if the shift is always happening in the same direction or at the same height it might help you narrow down where to look for problems
brisk moth
the reason I bring up it being this print is that I have printed other, taller things since my last hardware changes. That photo was taken while it was printing, so it was still stuck down well enough
slender oasis
sure but that print has allot of fairly sharp corners and they start in the area it shifted. so if you have a belt that is a little to loose and its slipping or your stepper motors are loosing steps or what ever that was called its likely to happen on a sharp direction change like that. if your other prints didnt have as many close together sharp direction changes the problem might not have presented its self.
take all of that with a grain of salt, I am still new at this. just what makes sense to me based on what I have learned so far
same would hold true if your pushing your acceleration
brisk moth
All the edges are rounded 😆 fillets for daaays. I haven't been any more aggressive regarding speeds or acceleration than normal, and that belt is more likely to be too tight than not. I've changed a few things and resliced at a slightly lower speed, and will see if that works.
The one time I caught it happening live it seemed to happen to happen at the end of the long straight line, which is odd since again I've printed bigger things with long straight lines along that axis.
slender oasis
oh, another thing to check as you said you changed your build surface. not sure how its attached but if its not really secure it could slip. if its magnetic that probably wont happen but if its using those binder clips or something it could. the layer shift would be in the direction the bed moves in that case.
brisk moth
I didn't change my build surface.
slender oasis
oh, thought you said you switched from glass to PEI
brisk moth
hmm. my printer thermal errors if I set the temp any higher than 240c (it has a limit set of 245c). was hoping to eke a few more degrees for printing abs 😦
slender oasis
is that normal for the ender 3? seems a bit low
I know they can go higher with modding, friend of mine prints PC on his.
slender oasis
mine is 260, but fairly sure it would be stupid to push it to that without switching to an all metal hotend
I guess 240 does make sense without one.
I want to upgrade to an all metal hotend and probably add some insulation to the bed.
viscid violet
Whatever you do, don't run ptfe tubes over 240 unless you like poisonous gas, or you're using a factory ptfe tube and they state it can run up to 260, or any rated aftermarket one of course.
Not all ptfe grades are the same, and some can't handle 260.
brisk moth
I set my limit in firmware at 245. The stock ones are limited to 260, which is 15-20 higher than is safe due to ptfe pyrolysis becoming notable at 245-250c
viscid violet
Again, depending on the grade. If you buy cheap aftermarket ones 245 could be enough, but high grade shit is good at 260.
brisk moth
Nah, even "high grade" ptfe isn't actually good for continued use up at 260 regardless of what they say
viscid violet
I mean. Knowing plastic is the industry I work in.
If the spec sheet says it has a working temp range up to 260 the manufacturer could get sued if it fails at 250
Now. Consumer shit not meeting its own specs is of course another issue entirely.
slender oasis
well the one I have says it can do 260... but I wont trust it. even if it really can its still going to degrade faster and release some nasty.
brisk moth
Teflon (the common brand name for plastic) starts off gassing as low as about 230c, but in the 3dp space it's not usually considered a problem until around 250c, and it doesn't start burning until higher than that (which is probably where the 260c figure comes from. It's honestly been a while since ive peeked in to this stuff)
elder linden
I'm inclined to believe squidge on this one
viscid violet
I've got material data sheets that show 260, but it's expensive stuff.
We use it for a selector valve
elder linden
I'm seeing all these new things get released around 3d printing, and I'm getting closer to having my own benchy lol
viscid violet
Do it
slender oasis
what printer are you looking at?
humble terrace
Anyone have any experience with the suuuuper cheap kits to convert and ender 3 to direct drive, where it's basically just a bracket to stick the extruder right on top of the hot end?
I'd be worried about that damn much reciprocating mass, but if they work the $12-15 they go for seems like quite the deal.
brisk moth
I havent run a bought kit, but I did do one of the printed ones, and had no issues with it. I do know that in some cases the extra gantry mass can cause the unsupported end to sag, even with properly snug wheels
in fact I still run a printed one, albeit with a BMG clone instead of the stock (or metal dual drive) extruder
slender oasis
do you care more about speed or being able to print flexible filament?
brisk moth
even then, its till much less mass than the bed being yeeted back and forth, and has the same size stepper. and probably the same vref set 🤔
humble terrace
do you care more about speed or being able to print flexible filament?
Right now, don't actually have a need to do so, but both of those are concerns.
I am successfully printing TPU now, but I have speed turned down to 20mm/s to do so.
slender oasis
even with direct drive you still have to print quite a bit slower
humble terrace
Sounds like it might go well with a dual z axis kit too
slender oasis
but there are also the new flexible PLA filaments out there that are far easier to print even on boden. so that might be a consideration, from what I have heard you can print those at much closer to your normal speeds
humble terrace
I've not attempted a flexible PLA yet
brisk moth
how about a TPU benchy in five and a half minutes? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSz-7r_hfzA
humble terrace
Impressive
slender oasis
I have heard that the new arachni slicer thing works a bit better on direct drive, can get a little more quality out of it but I dont know how true that is.
brisk moth
it will get you slightly better quality on all kinds of drive
slender oasis
yes but I was told it works better with direct drive
brisk moth
its just continuously variable line width slicing
slender oasis
rapidly changing the line width works better with the faster/finer control that a direct drive gets you
brisk moth
I havent seen it doing much rapid changing. hasnt really been needed in any of my prints.
(colour is line width)
slender oasis
and there is some printing speed to be gained by reduced retraction times from direct drive, how much of that is lost by not being able to use quite as high of an acceleration I dont know
lol, almost everything I print uses the veriable line width quite allot
brisk moth
honestly you can run higher acceleration on an ender3 than it ships with anyway. I bumped mine up to 1k (from 500) and havent looked back. I need to do the tuning to ramp it up even higher at some point
slender oasis
but I also print mostly at 0.6mm line widths because faster stronger!
brisk moth
yeah, I have been mostly doing 0.65 from a 0.6mm nozzle
slender oasis
I am just using a 0.4
if I had a 0.6 I would probably be printing at 0.8 line width
brisk moth
I am just (roughly) accounting for die swell. I should really rewatch stefan's (cnckitchen) video on line width vs nozzle size
slender oasis
but to do that I would need some flow upgrades
brisk moth
I have pushed the mk8 to beyond what its max flow is stated to be without any difficulties. the bigger nozzle probably helps with that
brisk moth
but to do that I would need some flow upgrades
cht. or just shove a volcano nozzle in
slender oasis
my speedy profile gets up to around 10ccm/m and 10-15 I think is close to stock max flow
so to make a 0.6mm version of that profile I would almost for sure need one of those fancy nozzles or a volcano
with that profile I can print a resonable looking benchy in under 30mins without touching speed or acceleration (waiting to get the input shaper version of my firmware before doing that as even stock settings has a bit of ringing on my printer)
oh, it was 36mins
humble terrace
I almost feel a little bad that I've never printed a benchy
slender oasis
quality isnt half bad for the speed.
brisk moth
funnily enough, you dont even need a volcano block to take advantage of volcano nozzles: https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/volcano-hotends-are-obsolete-just-use-nuts and the same content in video form: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Soz8z-vAIw
you get basically the same flow
slender oasis
yeah, seen that
I would look into the printed direct drive kits. if you have most or all the non printed parts you need (if there are any, probably screws and such) then I would try that. even cheaper then the cheap conversions
so if it sucks, not much lost but time
it also wouldnt suprize me if some of those printed kits are actually better. all the revisions as people use them to get the balance right
brisk moth
the real flex would be getting it printed out of PEEK or something 😆
humble terrace
I'll probably run it with ASA
brisk moth
mines PETG, though PLA would probably be fine if I didnt have the extruder current too high...
the stepper gets... toasty
slender oasis
maybe that is why your getting layer shifts 😛
brisk moth
it reprinted fine this time
I have a few revisions that need to be made for the future. but I hopefully dont need to print a new version
will find out when I go to install it 😆
elder linden
what printer are you looking at?
Right now looking at an elegoo neptune, but that could switch depending on if someone comes kicking and screaming about another brand (currently only looking into getting a FDM printer)
slender oasis
wish I had lots of extra filament laying around... I seem to go threw it alarmingly fast
elder linden
Dream eventually would be making my own voron though
slender oasis
and I have been spoiled by the super cheap elegoo filament but I suspect that wont last
I have the Neptune 3 pro. it seems like a fairly good printer. other one I would consider in that price range is the Solvo SV06. they are both very similar but the SV06 has an all metal hotend but is also a little more exspensive
but is more likelly to be in stock, the Neptunes are always out of stock
I am wishing I could have spent the extra money and been patient enough to wait for the Neptune plus. I am often running into the size limits of my machine. but that really depends on what you plan on printing, most people seem to do fine with a normal sized printer
(this might be releated to my going threw filament to fast)
brisk moth
heck, a significant number of people end up being fine with a tiny printer for most of their prints
big bed slingers have... issues
and so do large corexy
slender oasis
just something you have to deal with if you want to print giant battleship models
brisk moth
croxy is probably the best of the three I have mentioned when going large. I know there are others (like delta), but am not too familiar with them
slender oasis
hard to get a core xy for under 500
brisk moth
rook is cheap. albeit small
slender oasis
if you already have a printer to make one 😛
brisk moth
not sure anyone is selling the printed parts (yet?) though
slender oasis
and the bill of mats I saw on it was still like 350
its also TINY. I mean if your going to have a 3d printer that small is there any reason not to go resin instead?
slender oasis
yeah there are lots of downsides to resin, but my point is more that if a tiny build volume is good enough for you then chances are your printing things like minis and in that case your again better off with resin
slender oasis
I'll probably run it with ASA
how is printing ASA? can you manage without an enclosure?
I am planning on trying to switch to it in hopes of it being easier to post process.
also worried my bed dosnt get hot enough, its max temp is 100c and the recommended bed temp was 100-120 for the spool I was looking at. I am not sure how well my bed will hold 100, I bet I will need to add insulation to it
humble terrace
I have a somewhat insulated enclosure and have not attempted any prints outside of it
slender oasis
what do you use for that?
humble terrace
Big assed metal cabinet
slender oasis
ah, dont think I could manage that. space is always my biggest problem
tight river
There's never enough space
slender oasis
lol, I was planning to try dropping a cardboard box over it
humble terrace
tight river
lol, I was planning to try dropping a cardboard box over it
Line it with tinfoil
slender oasis
well I live in a studio apartment so space is an even bigger problem then usual
a VERY tiny one
humble terrace
36" wide, 22" deep, 31" tall.
slender oasis
lol, the heat from your printer probably helps keep your filament dry
humble terrace
I originally had it in my garage for storing various car related tools and parts, but resin smell got me to repurpose it.
humble terrace
lol, the heat from your printer probably helps keep your filament dry
Big white plastic container in front is all dessicant
slender oasis
but I see a problem with going direct drive with that. and why that wouldnt work for me. filament needs to be above the printer for direct drive
you might have room in the upper compartment for a spool holder...
brisk moth
you dont need to go reverse bowden if you cant feed from above, but it does help. I had issues with the toolhead tugging a bunch of filament off the spool when it travelled sideways 😆
you can do things like mounting a filament guide or short section of ptfe tube to the top of the frame for example, and routing through that. or just deal with the your spool partially unravelling on fast travels
humble terrace
I think reverse bowden sounds like a better idea than that, especially since I'll have a decent length of tube available.
brisk moth
My personal issue is that it makes loading so much slower than just dropping the filament in the extruder 😦
Though it's going to be nothing compared to a printer I pretend I'm still refurbishing/building that had like two meters of reverse Bowden.... Each for three possible extruders/hotends
That is a printer that is not going to move quickly. The toolhead is massive, and therefore heavy.
slender oasis
Right now looking at an elegoo neptune, but that could switch depending on if so...
oh, some more info on the Neptune 3 pro vs the SVo6. the SVo6 is basically a Prusa mk3 S clone with the good and bad that comes form that. it has a fancy planetary gear extruder and the all metal hotend but it also has the old style crappy LCD with a nob for control. the Neptune has a really nice touch screen that is way easier to use and has more options right there on the printer without having to hook it up or a computer to access. so basically the choice between the 2 is better hotend/extruder hardware vs better interface hardware.
I suspect the SV06 might be easier to upgrade and modify then the neptune as the neptune I think has a proprietary extruder at least I have heard that mentioned a few times. the SV06 is all open source I think like the prusa its based on
oh and the SV06 dosnt have a filament runout sensor, neptune 3 pro does
slender oasis
anyone know of a good way to make useable threads in blender? (no, using a cad software is not an option for this)
the bolt maker addon sucks for this, you have almost no control and you cant make them high enough sub divisions to actually rotate smoothly
just wasted 150g of filament on a print with threads that just refuse to engage. I thought I had them right but nope. as always they suck
7hr print 😦
tight river
I just got a bunch of bolt designs from thingiverse
slender oasis
not trying to make a bolt/nut. that is the problem. I am trying to make a cap for a custom bottle/jar
slender oasis
oh, another thing about the Sv06, it uses linear rails instead of rollers. fairly sure that is a big improvement over rollers like the Neptunes use... more I learn about it the more I think it might be a better option.
slender oasis
at least its a big improvement if you plan on pushing for high speed printing
nova orbit
oh, another thing about the Sv06, it uses linear rails instead of rollers. fairl...
rods not rails😉
rails are something different
v-wheels can go plenty fast, they just wear a lot faster than other solutions
brisk moth
And rods are loud. They all have their upsides and downsides
slender oasis
ah, I figured rods and rails were just different versions of the same thing. I eman they are both bearing holders riding on a bit of steel
nova orbit
ah, I figured rods and rails were just different versions of the same thing. I e...
sure, but rails constrict movement in 2 axis, rods only in 1
slender oasis
V-wheels have allot less stiffness so at higher accelerations the ringing problem is made allot worse
nova orbit
and by that definition, all FDM printers are the same😂
code goes in + plastic, model comes out
slender oasis
well pratical difference, what is there? I mean the rods are in pairs so they cant rotate. is stiffness better, worse or the same? that is what really matters (well if they are noisy that also matters a bit)
nova orbit
stiffness on rods is worse cause they are only supported at the ends
slender oasis
think that is true for rails as well
nova orbit
absolutely
slender oasis
so rails vs v-wheels, probably not worth considering?
er rods
but rods are better then both
rails... shit
I cant word today
nova orbit
rails are the better solution for msot cases, but they're a bit more expensive
rods are the nice middle ground
v-wheels are usually the cheapest
https://youtu.be/A3jx4bZE3AU?t=109
this uses rails for X and Y
slender oasis
one of the downsides of the neptune is they do not seem easy to upgrade in that reguard. the frame is all custom extrusion so no easy mounting. would have to drill out mounting holes
I take it the bed is the one that is really worth upgrading to rails from wheels on a bed slinger. the way the wheels work on those is just bad engineering all around
nova orbit
bed and X usually
slender oasis
even at stock acceleration the Neptune 3 pro has noticable ringing, or at least mine does
I think my current upgrade path then is first, hotend. need a higher flowing nozzle and a metal or bimetal heatbreak. after that I need to upgrade my firmware to marline 2.1.2+ so I can use input shaping and linear advance (for some stupid reason the Neptune 3 pro dosnt have linear advance enabled in its default firmware) after that if I still feel I want to push for more speed I will consider some rails
nova orbit
I think my current upgrade path then is first, hotend. need a higher flowing noz...
klipper👀
slender oasis
klipper would be nice but my printer has such a nice touch screen and I dont want to battle for a pie
they are kinda hard to get these days
nova orbit
gotcha
slender oasis
to bad you cant just run it off a phone like you can octo print
slender oasis
I hope they add support for an accelerometers to marline soon
yeah, I have a mini pc that could probably run it. but I like having that as a backup for my PC
maybe I could do a duel boot thing
tight river
Printing mag holders for my new pistol so i can carry them on my belt
brisk moth
I hope they add support for an accelerometers to marline soon
With our luck they will pick a third accelerometer to use
Klipper and rrf use different and incompatible ones
tight river
Roll has been on the printer for weeks, air has been quite humid, prints absolutely fine
slender oasis
if its PLA it wont really care much about the humidity unless its been in a humid enviroment for quite a long time. it does make a difference but for most things not enough to matter. I think ASA is mostly ok as well but PETG... not so much and TPU will just go all kinds of wrong
I have had the current roll of PLA on my printer for over a month but it still prints fine. but its also winter and so fairly dry. I wonder if I will see a difference when spring eventually decides to show up (assuming we get a spring, it might just jump from winter to summer)
dont think summer will be a problem because AC will keep the air dry
tight river
Yeah this is near the back door and spring has started
brisk moth
I appear to have designed a screw access hole in to my print, and I can't figure out what it was for 🤔
mossy urchin
any of you fluent in fusion360?
I'm pretty new-ish and I need to design an intake manifold (preferably aerodynamic one at that).
I've now completed the design of all tube and their runs but now I need to combine them into a single one that ends at a shared point.
Basically I need to remove these walls within. This manifold is going to be 3D-printed.
(hidden the other 4 tubes for clearer image)
I also plan to "Loft" the tube faces to the manifold mounting point so there are little indents for the screw holes and the fitting.
I think I have a solution I just didn't think of before (tried for like an hour before asking):
joining all tubes into 1 body, then sweeping along each profile with the inner diameter but subtract from the "master-tube"
...except for some reason I can't combine all tubes into 1... best it does is two..
welp, that tactic works for two tubes at least...
"cutting" the insides of all before joining also doesn't work. it can't find any objects to cut apparently... (path of tube5 works but path of tube6 (right most one) doesn't)
I think the problem is the shared starting point. can't even bool more than two cylinders along these paths
viscid violet
You should design the exterior shell first then offset the shell to create solid thickness. Would avoid creating the walls in the first place.
mossy urchin
Hmm seems sensible...
viscid violet
Just a tip for the future.
mossy urchin
I would assume that using a sketch to define thickness would do the same as sweeping a cylinder and then making it hollow 🤷🏽
Hmm also can't join solid cylinders...
It seems like the two middle ones refuse to boolean...
I will try recreating the path in the sketch...
Nope, it's just "any more than 2"
- actually it's try merge anything but the middle two
Somehow I've managed to build groups of two.
slender oasis
what is that manifold for?
it seems that for an intake manifold having them inline like that would be a problem, if its for an engine the cylinders wont get equal flow of air, unless its using forced induction.
humble terrace
PC cooling would be my bet
mossy urchin
what is that manifold for?
Forced induction into a radiator
But I'm unsure if it's this form is the best approach for the problem
I need it to have a manifold tho
tight river
Printed mag holder for a belt
Specifically for beretta mags, as the logo might hint at
viscid violet
I would assume that using a sketch to define thickness would do the same as swee...
Once you have the shell done in 3d, you just set a wall thickness as a parameter. No sketch.
You can make a solid hotdog of a part then "hollow" it later to turn it into a pipe.
When doing a manifold you would potentially start with a path, extrude a sketch along that path.
You have two options at this point. Do the sketch with wall thickness, or do it just the outer profile and then offset a wall later.
Odd profiles might be better served with the hollow built into the sketch or not, depending in complexity.
Sometimes an offset can break geometry that the sketch wouldn't, or vice versa.
And sometimes you need the pipe to fit between other things and doing an extruded sketch would be a bastard, so you need to just model the exterior free form and offset.
There's many ways to skin that cat
mossy urchin
Thanks for the tips - I was doing a path, it's just that I wanted the curves to look special.
I could try extruding only parts of said path tho.
So there's less overlap -> less room for the program to mess up
viscid violet
For those who don't get into the car thread. It works and fits perfectly, but I ordered some heat set inserts to try out so I'll be experimenting with those before I do the final one
slender oasis
ok... I have an advanced material science question. its somewhat releated to 3d printing or at least the post processing of 3d printed parts
I need a way to make microscopic dimples in a surface. dimples about 20-30 micrometers in diameter. this needs to be applied to a 3d printed master that will then be used to make a mold for casting. my first thought was to use glass microspheres, they are about the right size. but if I mixed those in with the paint for the master that would give me the reverse of what i want, microbumps not dimples. I cant put it into the mold because that just wouldnt work do to the way silicone flows. so how can I do this without exspensive equipment as a DIY project?
viscid violet
All you can do is try to texture the mold.
slender oasis
but how?
viscid violet
Beats me
slender oasis
all I can think of is to mix the microbubbles with silicone and paint that onto the inside of the mold (not easy at all) and doing so will destroy the detail
maybe media blasting with a spherical media but I dont have sand blasting equipment
viscid violet
You'll also run the risk of too much media density just sandblasting it right back to smooth
Unless that's the type of finish you want
slender oasis
I dont think a media blasted surface is ever smooth. not at these scales
this is microscopic.
viscid violet
Yeah but what I mean is are you going for "matte" or just dimpled
That was blasted
The pitting is what used to be rust
slender oasis
I dont know what the ideal spacing is for the dimples, if they should be overlapping or close to it like you would get by media blasting or if they need a set spacing. finding out information on this is not easy. I am trying to make very low friction surface. micro dimples seems to be the best way to do this but all the industrial methods are crazy advanced shit with lasers or micro ball mills.
viscid violet
Also 30 micron isn't really my idea of microscopic, but it is small
You might have the opposite result of low friction
slender oasis
dry friction yes, I am more interested in wet friction. basically the same idea as the hashmarks when honing a cylinder
viscid violet
Well. That works if you're applying lubricant like oil or grease. To an extent.
slender oasis
that is exactly the case, and I cant find any other methods of creating a low friction surface without adding something like PTFE to the surface and that isnt an option here
viscid violet
Print in delrin and polish
slender oasis
right...
maybe printing in delrin is easy for you but for the rest of us without access to fancy industrial printers its not a safe or sane option
I really dont feel like being killed by the fumes
tight river
you could make a crappy sandblaster with a compressor and a can filled with sand
slender oasis
dont have a compressor
if i did I would be sand blasting all my 3d printed parts becuase hand sanding them sucks!
and I suspect Miata is right, the matte surface that produces wouldnt really work. might as well just use matte paint and that is what I have already tried, didnt work worth a damn
it might be slightly better as the matte surface of the matte paints is additive not subtractive. so its creating micro bumbs on micro dimples
if I could find a flexible sheet of something with the reverse of this kind of detail already in it then I could press that into the paint while it is still slightly tacky. that might work, kinda like how you leave finger prints in the paint if you touch it a little bit too soon
tight river
that could work
slender oasis
but I cant think of anything with that kind of surface detail
tribal hedge
Sand paper?
tight river
really fine sandpaper
slender oasis
not a bad idea. but most sand paper has a very sharp surface detail. I am not sure if that matters or not...
that fancy purple 3m paper has resin over it so when new its fairly rounded but I dont think that comes in the fine grit I would need
mossy urchin
Sad paper by definition has very sharp edges that break off to form another sharp edge
slender oasis
I think I need 400 grit?
no, 800
its worth doing a small test with it.
if the paint is at just the right stage of tackyness I think the sharpness will round out as it tries to spring back partially. that would by tricky as hell to get right and I dont have a way to check the results. maybe I should get a little digital microscope
mossy urchin
I need a way to make microscopic dimples in a surface. dimples about 20-30 micro...
Just read this - things like this usually require a stamping process. Look into "gecko paper" (if I recall it correctly). So what are you exactly trying to do? Giving a surface finish to silicone like for those non-adhesive adhesive pads?
slender oasis
otherway around, I am trying to make something non stick. if I was trying to make my own gecko paper I actually came up with an idea for that. holograms!
holograms are made with tiny ridges just like you want for mimicking gecko feet. so you could use a hologram print pressed into silicon to get that effect. silicone can be used for transfering those. watched a youtube vid a while ago on doing that for making holo-chocolate
that is on my list to try actually
I like the sand paper idea. I will give that a try. if its too sharp a surface I can try adding a very thin layer of paint ontop of the sand paper to try to smooth it out before hand.
slender oasis
Sand paper?
thanks!
viscid violet
maybe printing in delrin is easy for you but for the rest of us without access t...
Delrin is a low temperature material.... like 175c.
slender oasis
I have heard that its a nightmare to print and dangerus because of the fumes
just assumed it was higher temp
viscid violet
Nah. Print at like 190 to 220. Just need to ventilate it and use the right bed glue
slender oasis
and have a heated chamber to prevent warping. something I dont have
viscid violet
Meh.
A cardboard box over the top of the printer and a hot bed = heated chamber
My printer isn't heated
slender oasis
anyway its still not an option. I need a flexible part not a ridgid one, and just having low surface energy isnt enough. silicone has low surface energy but try and rub it across a sheet of glass and see how "non stick" it really is
viscid violet
Low surface energy has nothing to do with how sticky it is
In terms of friction between surfaces anyways
Nylon is much slicker than polypropylene for example but has a much higher surface energy
slender oasis
I know friction is a combination of many factors. one of those factors is surface topology. and its the only one I have much control of in this case.
viscid violet
This is true
The slickest part you can get dry is polished POM.
And lubricant on that makes it slicker than snot on a porcelain doorknob
slender oasis
I thought PTFE was a little lower friction then POM
viscid violet
Probably but you won't be printing, casting, or molding it.
slender oasis
I have heard of another option for rigid parts at least. adding hexagonal boron nitride to epoxy works as a poor mans teflon
I wonder how well it stays in suspension. might be able to SLA print with it in a UV resin
viscid violet
Might as well just buy a mid range printer for the cost of that stuff
Plus experimentation of course
slender oasis
its only 20 bucks an oz on amazon
I think a little go's a long way
I am so pissed I missed the chance to pick up a Mars 2 for 100 bucks...
I know they are an older model, only 2k display but how can you go wrong at that price
mossy urchin
can somebody help me create this geometry? it still won't work, I've now tried everything y'all suggested and I came up with...
it won't let me select more than two
and it won't let me start the "sweep along path" from the other end, so that there's less overlapping geometry
mossy urchin
I can provide files or screen share / remote desktop
mossy urchin
my inner perfectionist is screaming but using the pipe tool instead of "sweep along path", it finally, for some reason, worked. with 1 little trick....
now I've got to figure out how to connect the tubes to the profile infront of them...
mossy urchin
...ideas on how to indent the outer tube(s) to fit this fitting?
brisk moth
Have your circle start back a bit and use a.. loft? to bridge the gap
mossy urchin
if the circle starts further back, there would be a weird straight section in the loft, instead of an arc 🤔
any chance to indent the tube as if it were pressed against a hot cylinder?
brisk moth
I don't know of a way. But that doesn't mean it's not possible
mossy urchin
I might be able to use boolean cylinders to cut the tube before "tubing" it but it would probably look ugly. I'mma have to spend some time on this...
mossy urchin
well, I've got two profiles to connect... now if the program would play along, that would be great! :)
mossy urchin
gotta say - I've got that to work with Surface Lofts. now imma figure out how to indent the side
viscid violet
My scanner is apparently in the next shipment batch after the upcoming one. So. Soon.
viscid violet
ok. heat set inserts are boss
viscid violet
Still gotta refine the main part
viscid violet
High build primer ftw lol
Obviously going to need another couple coats and sanding but whatever.
slender oasis
its nice to see there are other people as bad with the spraypaint as I am
actually Bondo highfill primer is the easiest spray paint I have ever used. so much more forgiving of my heavy handed spraying, far less likely to run or fisheye because I put on to much
unlike that damn acrylic lacquer clear coat
viscid violet
I'm just gonna pound a ton on and sand it lol
viscid violet
slender oasis
what did you end up printing them out of?
viscid violet
Cf nylon
I'll see how it goes but I don't think layer adhesion will matter for this
slender oasis
if its mounted in a car what matters most is how well it handles the heat. nylon is more then good enough for car window heat
viscid violet
Yep
viscid violet
Eliminated the rubber band bullshit it comes with to hold it to the factory mirror. Everything works great now, just need to paint and install.
slender oasis
not convinced it really needed painted. it matched fairly well already. at least before you started sanding
is that stuff easier to sand then PLA? I would think nylons toughness would make it really annoying but the carbon might help... while also making the dust nastier
slim sandal
not convinced it really needed painted. it matched fairly well already. at least...
nylon might be better aginst UV than most plastics but all plastics should be painted for protection
viscid violet
True story.
slender oasis
so question about different filaments. considering ease of printing and not requiring special printing gear. what is the best material for parts that wont change size with minor changes in temp and larger changes in humidity and wont warp or creep over time?
specifically I want to make a 3d printed mechanical clock.
viscid violet
See above cf nylon.
Or gf nylon
Once nylon stabilizes in humidity it's pretty stable
slender oasis
that is not exactly something I would consider easy to print 😛
slender oasis
if you have a printer that can do nylon temps and a heated chamber maybe
its also ungodly exspensive
slender oasis
sigh is there nothing on the more budget friendly and noob friendly side that would work for this?
viscid violet
Sure. Whatever you want to use would probably work fine
Doesn't much matter what material as the precision of your parts won't be high enough for the material properties to significantly matter
slender oasis
the main thing I am worried about is the gears changing size or shape with time or with humidity changes
viscid violet
All of the cheap filaments are hygroscopic
And so is nylon
I don't understand for the life of me why PP filament isn't the cheapest shit on the market though. It's the cheapest plastic there is
slender oasis
yeah but even with that, does the absorbtion of water cause them to change size much like do they swell?
viscid violet
And it's easier to extrude into filament than the other as well since it doesn't require drying
Yeah but it's minute
slender oasis
I would guess volume. not allot of people print with it so low volume production
viscid violet
I could agree with that except it can be extruded on the same equipment
No different than any other color or material change
slender oasis
wish pellet extruders for home 3d printers were more common and an easier option
then we wouldnt have this problem
viscid violet
Me too but that takes a decent level of precision, and thus cost
slender oasis
but I guess its a bit hard to mount a hopper on something moving, allot of extra mass
slim sandal
but I guess its a bit hard to mount a hopper on something moving, allot of extra...
look at water cutters there are ways to mount remote hoppers
slender oasis
yeah but that is moving something small, like sand
viscid violet
The problem isn't getting it to the extruder. It's getting a constant volumetric flow rate through it and dealing with the air in between the bulk pellets that gets melted in. That takes pressure
slender oasis
ah
viscid violet
yeah but that is moving something small, like sand
Just gravity feed it into the extruder through a literal hose
slender oasis
do they use an auger to compress it?
viscid violet
Yes, and I'm something of an expert on those augers
Not to the level of engineering them, but speccing them out anyways
slender oasis
that whole setup is still bound to be more heavy then a direct drive filament head
viscid violet
Compression ratio, LD ratio, flight width and depth, and a bunch of other stuff plays a part
slender oasis
I would assume the augers and the tubes they are in have to be metal
slender oasis
yeah, bet they are a pain to tune. would be hard for a home setup
viscid violet
Or you just extrude into a filament
slender oasis
not seen any good systems for that at home. have looked. never seems to be the most consistant
viscid violet
There are general purpose screws but really instead of being good at one plastic they suck at all of them.
brisk moth
that whole setup is still bound to be more heavy then a direct drive filament he...
You can get pellet fed hotend extruders, but you are talking about the kind of flow rates that hobby printers could only dream of. Also yes, big and heavy
brisk moth
Expensive, yet still cheap
viscid violet
Closer to 8 yeah
brisk moth
Diy systems are still up around 1.5k I think
viscid violet
You can do it cheaper. There's an extruder on Amazon for like 700
slender oasis
when your asking for CNC mill prices for something like that, its a bit much
viscid violet
You just have to provide a cooling bath for the filament
brisk moth
Getting the right kind of screw is a massive pita. People who have built their own have used drill augers, but those don't have the right profile
viscid violet
Note the precise profile
The difference in root diameter from one end to the other is the compression ratio and that's what drives the gas out of the melt
slender oasis
yeah, about what I was expecting for an auger to compress melting plastic
brisk moth
Huh, only a single profile/shape on that one? The ones I have heard of have varying pitch based, which changes with the different heating zones
viscid violet
That's more of a general purpose screw
brisk moth
Ahhh
slender oasis
I am sure machining one of those costs a good bit of money
viscid violet
As that unit is designed for virtually every type of plastic
brisk moth
Probably ground, which doesn't get cheap
slender oasis
lol, bet its fun to clean those machines as well
viscid violet
Sometimes you get into applications where you want barrier and or mixing screws. Or both
slender oasis
for mixing in the color pellets or other addititives I take it
brisk moth
This is the one that Dyze uses in one of their hotends, though that would need to be a generic one
viscid violet
Never heard of em but if that's hollow is probably an actively cooled screw. Big benefits for throughput there
brisk moth
Up to 3kg/h apparently
brisk moth
Never heard of em but if that's hollow is probably an actively cooled screw. Big...
DyzeDesign. https://dyzedesign.com/
viscid violet
Intredasting
brisk moth
This is the unit
viscid violet
BRB printing a whole new miata chassis
brisk moth
Starting at 10k cad
slim sandal
when your asking for CNC mill prices for something like that, its a bit much
CNC mills are in the new car range to small house range depending on size and features
viscid violet
Haha small house
A couple weeks ago I was standing inside one that was larger than my house
And certainly cost a lot more than a small one
slim sandal
I was thinking of the mills I have dealt with I have no doubt that they get more expencive. now the one that hurts if pacaging equipment costs more than the mills
slender oasis
I wasnt talking a gaint 5 axis...
viscid violet
Yeah it's pretty nutso
There's 3d printers that size too
Mostly experimental stuff though tbh
slender oasis
unless you count the ones that print with concrete
viscid violet
There's a company that thinks they can compete with SpaceX with a 3d printed rocket. So they have a big ass metal printer
viscid violet
unless you count the ones that print with concrete
Most of those aren't even that big
slim sandal
the other ones that are stupid expensive are VMM super fast and accurate but they cost like 90k
that one is mig welder bot on a fork lift though
slender oasis
stupid press photos where they hide all the miles of cable and hose and ducts and random shit it takes for things like that to actually work so it looks all iphone clean
slim sandal
that and the botem was for wrapping pallets in saran warp
slender oasis
so? if it works it works
viscid violet
Eh. Kind of yes and kind of no
slim sandal
did I say it didn't?
viscid violet
There are videos of these things running and it's just a power cable and material feed
slim sandal
might be a flat decoiling turn table then
viscid violet
And if you run the voltage high enough and have an inboard transformer you can use a pretty small cable
slim sandal
that set up is surprisingly clean cause making stuff is a messy business
viscid violet
I'd imagine they forklift in supports as the build progresses horizontally
viscid violet
Get X stick out then cram a pile of Lincoln logs under it
viscid violet
have you seen cam operated "CNC" lathes
We have one at work
slim sandal
they are extra neat
slim sandal
yes the WWII erra davenport 5 spindle screw machine
viscid violet
I had a bunch of molding machines that used them as well, though obviously not for cutting profiles
slim sandal
silly think looks like a 20 mm chain gun
viscid violet
I'm one of the youngest people in the US that knows how to operate 1960s era injection molding machines.
slim sandal
there are forming machines that use a similar system to bend ribbons of mettle into spring clips
viscid violet
I actually gave one of our early 70s presses to another company for its historical value a couple years ago. I talked to the guy in person on Tuesday and he said he will have to call me if he ever gets a mold that needs to be put in it
I don't even know where the machine is in the US lol
slim sandal
nice
viscid violet
But there's probably 3 people in the country who can set it up
Well. That any of us are aware of anyways. There's gotta be a couple geezers who can still do it
Retirees from old molding shops
slim sandal
there is a surprising number of small manufacturers all over the US that are kept afloat because customers want a short supply chain and or they are making ITAR stuff
viscid violet
Definitely
We don't do anything that cool anymore but we did make a component for the f16 hud
I think it was used in the f22 also but could be wrong on that. At any rate in my 11 years there we ran it once
It was the actual clear display portion
Or rather, a clear part of it anyways. Not the heads up bit
We stopped doing all the aero stuff because the insurance was insanely expensive
Man now I'm not sure which planes it was in. Seems like it wouldn't have been used in the f22... maybe the 15 and 16? This is gonna bug me all weekend till I talk to the director again Monday
slim sandal
for me it is a lot of little bits and bobs some of it is super high precision other is very low
viscid violet
They work ish.
Lots of inconsistencies in filament diameter which affects flow rate through the nozzle
viscid violet
main minnow
so, eventually i want to get a 3d printer
upper nexus
So, I've been having a problem with my ender 3 V2 It started doing this (error on the left) for G code files. I tried cleaning out the hot end, replaced the nozzle, silicon cap and Bowden Tube) it still does this. What do you all think is causing this?
slender oasis
its hard to see in that image exactly what its doing.
other then clearly making a mess
is it extremely inconsistant extrusion? like the filament is just coming out in blobs and spurts or something?
brisk moth
When you put the new Bowden tube in, did you inspect down the bore it goes in for plastic, and then insert the new tube all the way down (this can actually be surprisingly difficult). If there is any gap between it and the nozzle plastic will build up in that space and mess up extrusion
slender oasis
that would fit with how it printed ok for the first half...
bowden tubes sound like a real pain in the butt
brisk moth
It's one of those irritating things about ptfe lined hotends
tight river
Yeah, I've had that issue. Also it'll sort of burn and get hard if you leave it there a long time while hot causing even more clogging. Just remove the plastic cover on the hot end and you can disconnect the bowden tube to check
brisk moth
The first time it happened to me I pulled the nozzle and Bowden tube out, then heated the hotend to 260c and let it... drip out. Plus some encouragement from an Allen key shoved down the top
viscid violet
so, eventually i want to get a 3d printer
To make what kind of stuff
upper nexus
When I put in the tube, I tried to put it in as far as I could. That being said, there is a build up of plastic by the silicone cap
slender oasis
well clearly molten filament is escaping before the nozzle somewhere and so not getting to your print... that looks nasty
upper nexus
It smells even worse. Trust me
I took the Bowden Tube out and put it back in as far as I could (some filament came out as I did so) I am trying to print a calibration cube and see how my results are
slender oasis
can you see where the melted plastic is coming from? if the nozzle is tight and its not coming out of the top around the bowden tube then next best guess would be the heat brake
I wouldnt try to print anything else until your fairly sure you have solved it... your going to end up with enough plastic melted around everything that you wont ever be able to clear it all off
upper nexus
It wasn't coming out of the top of the Bowden Tube. Unfortunately I have started a print (it does look good so far) and I will check to see if any more plastic has built up around the silicon cap.
tight river
Yeah, something is forcing itself through a gap, i had this as well, turned out to be the same issue i spoke above
brisk moth
main minnow
To make what kind of stuff
ah sorry didnt continue my message
partially for several miniature wargames, and also for my mandalorian cosplay
now from what ive seen an ender 3 isnt that big of a 3d printer, but is fairly reliable?
viscid violet
Well... you have two unique requirements there. The minis are best done in resin while the cosplay stuff will be larger and fdm is a bit better suited for durability and scale.
You can do resin on large cosplay stuff though, but durable resin gets pricey.
main minnow
either way itll be a hot moment before i can acquire a 3d printer
(not monetary restriction just a restriction of living in barracks)
upper nexus
I've been using the Creality Ender 3 V2 and I've been able to print some pretty cool things. You can theoretically print minis on it, but you kinda have to get creative with infill and supports. I do have a Anycubic photon Mono that works pretty well and is decently sized
main minnow
ooo nice
upper nexus
This was made with my Ender, but I had to cut into four pieces and later glued
main minnow
yeah for now i have a mandalorian death watch helmet from gamestop
but i have more i want to do that will probably require a 3d printewr
tight river
There are larger enders, but yeah, you can slice too
Mini's on fdm is doable but not very detailed
Not the most focused pic but shows the amount of detail
hybrid frigate
I have some friends who really like catan, I should make a set. People have made so many awesome tile variants.
tight river
They really did
viscid violet
Not the most focused pic but shows the amount of detail
Have you tried a 0.3 or even 0.2mm nozzle?
tight river
Nope, 0.4
viscid violet
A lot of good results with 0.2 but they clog easily with low quality filament.
Or anything reinforced with fibers of course.
tight river
I only use eSun filament
main minnow
another thing is i also want to print terrain for like, space games
so asteroids, space stations, destroyed ships, etc
tight river
What scale?
main minnow
dont know yet- want to run an in person campaign of battletech battleforce in the future
and that has.. several scales so far as im aware
tight river
Large scale terrain will get expensive in resin, id suggest fdm then
tight river
I have some friends who really like catan, I should make a set. People have made...
Just saw the news that the inventor of Catan passed away today
slender oasis
now from what ive seen an ender 3 isnt that big of a 3d printer, but is fairly r...
the ender 3 is horrible outdated by now. its an old design. for very close to the same price you can get much better printers. the ones I see most recommended right now for cheaper entry level printers are the Neptune 3 pro and the Solvo SV06. for large format but still cheap (good for cosplay) the Neptune 3 plus or max (if they are ever in stock) or the Solvo SV06 Plus. but larger has some downsides on bed slingers (the type of printers that move the bed back and forth for one of the axis of movement) the higher mass means the bigger printers cant print quite as fast.
tight river
you sure this shouldnt be in the car thread?
mossy urchin
I knew I posted somewhere wrong
viscid violet
Lolol
slender oasis
trying a different brand of filament for the first time. been using Elegoo's filament from the start because its SO cheap compared to everyone elses but they finally sold out so got some Overture white PLA. wonder if I will need to change any settings for it.
its funny, this stuff was almost twice the price I had been paying and I got the impression it was a good brand but the filament size is not as consistant as the Elegoo. that stuff was dead on 1.75mm everywhere I messured it on every roll I checked. this stuff is ranging from 1.73 to 1.76
I managed to get some more Elegoo after I had bought this and I got it in the same color so will be able to do some apples to apples comparisons
humble terrace
I've had decent success with inland (microcenter), but have not compared it to anything else.
slender oasis
not been able to visit microcenter in a long time but I have heard they are a really good place for 3d printing supplies
the elegoo filament starts at $13 a KG right now so that is really hard to beat. fairly sure they are under cutting everyone else like crazy to break into the market as they only just started suppling it so I dont expect those prices to stay that low for long but as long as its that cheap I will keep gobbling it up
but they dont have any fancy colors, its just the basics. black/white/gray/red/yellow/orange/blue and its mostly only the black and whites that are super cheap.
humble terrace
not been able to visit microcenter in a long time but I have heard they are a re...
Yeah, they're pretty decent. Got a decent amount of common parts and such on hand.
Wow, 13/kg is pretty awesome, I may have to try that.
I've probably got 8-10kg on hand though, so no need to buy any at the moment
slender oasis
I also dont think elegoo's claim that there filament is "Higher impact strength and better toughness than usual pla " is a lie... because this stuff is SO damn hard to sand. its just a night mare and all the videos I have seen of other people post processing PLA parts they dont seem to be having the problems I do. now that I am finally trying something else I will be able to test that, see if its just the case that all PLA is a nightmare to sand of if this stuff is just super tough
if I could find a PLA that was easier to sand it would be worth paying a bit more.
I keep hearing conflicting things about weather silk PLA is easier. some people say its more brittle and less tough others say its more flexible.
I think I just need to get setup to where I can print ABS or ASA. I know ABS is easy to sand
humble terrace
Yeah: don't. acetone smoothing.
(for ABS)
That said, my understanding is that for the most part, ASA's superior in all/most ways to ABS.
slender oasis
chemical smoothing has the same problem as just coating things in epoxy. it smooths over allot of the detail. but at least its cheaper then epoxy so I would still use it where I can
and yeah, ASA should be better in all ways. I would assume it still sands well
I am currently printing up one of those honeycomb wall systems. I need more storage and they seem to work fairly well. pegboard is exspensive if you order it online and because I dont have a working car right now I cant just go pick up a sheet of it at the hardware store.
viscid violet
Yeah: don't. acetone smoothing.
You can smooth pla with ethyl acetate
But that's pro mode shit that usually goes wrong
Oh and I just read about Tetrahydrofuran that it works but not quite as effectively as acetone on ABS.
So that's new to me
slender oasis
well ethyl acetate is actually easier/safer to work with then acetone so it might be a good option if it works... but its probably allot harder to find
from what I have been able to find the real easy way is to just dilute bondo glazing putty with acetone and spray it. but that requires an airbrush/compresser and I dont have that. but it seems to work WAY better and faster then filler primer
I saw a video of someone in the UK using a spray on glazing putty in a can that seemed to be basically the same thing but I have not been able to find that here
hybrid frigate
Today in "not all plastics are equal":
https://twitter.com/RKneegrow/status/1646526786484965377
Printed in PLA+, those receivers should be good for hundreds of rounds, minimum.
And yet all you can find online is "PETG is stronger".
(basically, PETG is too brittle to take the shock, PLA+ handles it like a champ)
slender oasis
wait, PETG is brittle? I thought the advantage it had over PLA was that it was less brittle. I mean PLA is already a very brittle plastic.
tight river
and it would be a major felony if i even possessed those files
slender oasis
if PETG isnt tougher then PLA then why would anyone use it? I mean its harder to print with and the prints tend to be messier, the only advantage it has left is that it can come in transparent colors and has slightly better temp tolerance but ASA kicks its ass in that last one and has a number of other advantages as well. kinda seems like PETG isnt that useful. oh I think it also has good chemical resistance so I guess that is nice.
if people come up with easy to use and reliable ways to make PP stick to printing beds I suspect it will take PETG's place fairly quickly
hybrid frigate
"Stronger" isn't a simple single number. PETG may be stronger in some ways, but it is weaker in others.
Hence the point that no single plastic is the perfect material for everything.
hybrid frigate
Bruh these people out there downloading literal guns 💀
I'm on the lookout for an AR-7 parts kit for "reasons"
tight river
oh i wished i could do this
but it'll get me into a lot of trouble im not willing to get in to
slender oasis
I know stronger isnt a single stat, I didnt say stronger I said tougher. everyone always says that PETG is less brittle and more impact resistant (toughtness) then PLA. trying to confirm if that is not the case
hybrid frigate
Well, all I really know for sure about the topic is that PETG is "real bad" for gun parts, while PLA+ is "just fine" and CF Nylon is "oooooh shiny"
humble terrace
Uh oh, you said CF Nylon.
Expect Squidge to drop by any second now.
tight river
like the cool aid guy
viscid violet
YALL WHAT NOW
hybrid frigate
So Squidge, do you know enough about the materials science of printed plastic to tell us why PETG is more brittle than PLA+ in certain applications?
slim sandal
that stuff sounds useless for fire arms
slender oasis
see everything I have heard about PETG is that its far better for impact resistance and flexiblity then PLA or PLA+ so it really makes no sense. of course that dosnt mean that it is at all the write material for making a gun, its probably not... no plastic is. it might be that it reacts baddly with the heat and combustion products in a way that PLA dosnt. who knows, they were never ment to be exposed to that kind of heat and pressure.
3d printing guns makes no sense to me anyway. I can only think of 2 reasons someone would want a 3d printed gun, criminal or paranoia. neither are good reasons
slim sandal
it has a low heat tolerance so that would be the issue
injection molded Glass fill nylon common in fire arms
slim sandal
3d printing guns makes no sense to me anyway. I can only think of 2 reasons some...
you are missing the biggest on because they can
hybrid frigate
Ok, so heat and pressure tolerance isn't really needed.
slender oasis
because they can does not seem like a good reason to play with a potential pipe bomb going off in your hand...
hybrid frigate
Pressure is contained by the barrel, and the breach face or bolt.
slim sandal
because they can does not seem like a good reason to play with a potential pipe ...
you are not they are making AR lowers the rest is standard production parts
slender oasis
by the way, a good reason right there not to use PLA. PLA is known for britle fracture, good for making sharp flying bits of plastic
hybrid frigate
In 99% of printed designs, all the plastic needs to do is hold everything structurally in place
You guys are diplaying pretty much all the common misconceptions all at once 😛
slender oasis
if your talking about 3d printed PARTS as in parts that are not the chamber or barrel then I wouldnt call that a 3d printed gun. I mean who cares about that?
hybrid frigate
For example, in most printed pistols the frame rails are still metal, and the slide is still metal.
The critical, legally a gun part, is plastic.
slim sandal
if your talking about 3d printed PARTS as in parts that are not the chamber or b...
because as far as the ATF is concerned that piece of plastic is the gun
hybrid frigate
The "shipped to your door no questions asked" parts are a mix of plastic and metal as needed.
slender oasis
again, we are back to the paranoia reason 😛
"I dont want the gummit to know what guns I have! they are comming for our guns!"
slim sandal
again it is for fun there is a challenge and if you want a custom lower that is the only real way to get it
slender oasis
if its a part of a gun that is exposed to the explosive heat and pressure, dont make it out of plastic, that is the height of stupidity. if its not one of those parts, what ever... and if that is the case well then the thing about PETG sounds even more dubious
slim sandal
also making guns is 100% legal in the US as long as you don't sell tem
slender oasis
if its a moving mechanical part PETG might not be the best option because it is fairly flexible, in that case then sure, PLA might be better because it is very stiff for a plastic
mossy urchin
There are multi-shot "single-use" full plastic guns
slender oasis
but also brittle
slim sandal
yah the modern liberator
slender oasis
didnt say anything about legality, just that its a bad idea. I sure as hell wouldnt fire a plastic gun unless I did it remotely
viscid violet
You guys are diplaying pretty much all the common misconceptions all at once 😛
This.
Whole bunch of Hollywood gun facts here.
hybrid frigate
Ok, so I have an Explorer II. I love my Explorer II. It is a pistol version of the venerable AR-7 design, and hasn't been made new in many, many years. In the original AR-7 the barrel and receiver has a "key" that determines orientation of the barrel when it is assembled, the pistol version has the key on the opposite side from the rifle so you cannot mount a pistol barrel on a rifle or vice versa (which is stupid, but anyway).
I want a new barrel for my Explorer II, and no one makes them any more. I cannot legally buy an new AR7 and make a pistol out of it, but I can buy an AR7 parts kit (or a full rifle that I then strip for parts) and print a new receiver as a pistol. Boom, new AR7 pistol that takes rifle keyed barrels, aka the ones you can still buy.
slim sandal
didnt say anything about legality, just that its a bad idea. I sure as hell woul...
again most of these are Glock/AR clones they are replacing plastic with plastic
slender oasis
then who cares?
hybrid frigate
There are people who own .308 battle rifles, printed in PLA, and with round counts in the thousands.
And those (CETMEs in this case) were metal originally.
slim sandal
so they made AR 10s
slender oasis
the entire point was about the material properties of the plastic...
hybrid frigate
Think a G3, a roller delayed blowback gun.
Anyway, something about PETG is well known in the printed gun community to not hold up to the shock, where PLA+ does, and everything I can find suggests that it shouldn't be that way.
And the shock in this case is not the pressure of the round, but of the moving parts slaming around.
slender oasis
well I am not a gun nut, your talking specifically about the receiver right? what kind of mechanical stressed would it be under?
slim sandal
recoil
slender oasis
that is exactly the kind of situation where you would want an impact resistant material and that should fit PETG and very much not fit PLA. so there has to be more going on. its probably a matter of stiffness, the PETG might stretch or move to much under the sudden load and that causes problems with the attachment of all the other components leading to failure or something like that
hybrid frigate
All sorts of places say PETG is less brittle, but the gun guys say it is too brittle.
slim sandal
those guns might be registered MGs or in this case SMGs
hybrid frigate
Highly doubtful.
slender oasis
then the gun guys probably dont know what that word actually means. PLA is super brittle but it is fairly stiff. I would bet anything its the stiffness that is needed
wasnt that the big problem with Hypoint guns back in the 90s. they were making shit out of cheap zinc alloy and it wasnt stiff enough, causing them to jam every other shot
slim sandal
in this case it would be the top part if it is say a mack 10
hybrid frigate
It is.
mossy urchin
I'd guess it's the combination of heat, shock and tensile strength of the material. Imma guess most forces are on the thing the slide hits when recoiling and the handle attachement
slender oasis
I mean you said it your self, CF or GF nylon is the gold standard for this stuff right? that is known for a nice combination of impact resistance AND stiffness.
PETG just has the impact resistance, PLA just has the stiffness
ontop of that it wont melt if you fire more then 3 round in a row... something I bet happens with PLA
slim sandal
Nylon is almost the gold standard for plastics in general
slender oasis
barrels get hot after all and the reciver holds the barrel, right?
(again, not a gun guy)
slim sandal
yep
hybrid frigate
Guns get hot, yes, but it takes a lot of rounds to get hot enough to cause serious issues.
That is a 3D printed MP5 BTW.
slender oasis
I mentioned hypoint and there cheap zinc parts. but if you wanted to make your own metal parts some zinc alloys are good for that. just needs to be the right one. one of the zamak alloys with high copper content would probably work. they melt at a low enough temp you can cast stuff at home very easly
just make sure you do it in a 100% lead free enviroment. if you do custom firearms shit then you might have made your own rounds... if even the tiniest amount of lead ends up in a zinc alloy then it will rot
its called zinc pest
and that video or the thumbnail of it brings up a really good reason not to 3d print your gun parts... is it really a good idea having real firearms that look like nerf blasters?
hybrid frigate
Yes.
slender oasis
seems like the kind of thing that could get people killed. esspecially if cops start suspecting that every bright plastic toy looking gun might be real
kinda the same thing as why its a bad idea to have plastic toy guns that look like the real thing
slim sandal
seems like the kind of thing that could get people killed. esspecially if cops s...
have you seen air soft guns? and those gel blasters
hybrid frigate
You ever watch LivePD? A shocking number of gang types carry BB guns.
slim sandal
seen clips of that show
slender oasis
air soft is more of a sport and the people that do air soft tend to be REALLY fucking careful about making sure people dont mistake there real looking guns for the real thing.
slim sandal
not what I am getting at
slender oasis
on account of they dont want to get shot!
or have the guns banned like in some places
slim sandal
also that does not look that much like a nerf gun and more to the point the onus should be no nerf to make their guns less gun like
hybrid frigate
Ever heard of ceracoat?
slender oasis
nerf was an example, point was it looks like a toy gun.
hybrid frigate
Colorful guns have been a thing for a long time.
Also, lots of printed guns are printed in black, this guy makes his in all sorts of bright colors partly because he likes pissing off the "guns should be gun colors" people.
Which is based AF
slim sandal
your logic leads to gel blasters getting registered as fire arms
hybrid frigate
Only in clown world places.
And if you can't own guns, you shouldn't be able to own toy guns either IMHO
But that is starting to get a bit off topic.
slim sandal
my point was he was using clown world logic
slender oasis
basic common sense gun safety is clown world?
mossy urchin
Basic common sense gun safety would be not being able to own guns if you are neither employed by the coutry nor a professional hunter, in which case your firearms must always be stored at a work location
But I guess that could be considered politcal
slender oasis
I was thinking much more basic then that, dont make a real gun look like a toy gun because some stupid kid might mistake it for a toy
mossy urchin
That aswell
Or the other way around, probably
As much as I like the idea of sports/hobbies like soft air etc. and their attention to detail, the negatives far outweigh the positives (imo)
hybrid frigate
Good thing you don't get to make decisions for other people then.
tribal hedge
I don’t agree with Chaos but they are allowed to have their own opinion. Just as you are allowed your own.
slim sandal
I was thinking much more basic then that, dont make a real gun look like a toy g...
better Idea teach your kids the first rule of gun safety
slender oasis
and hope that your kids friend that comes over to play is also the child of a gun nut and has been educated as such?
its stupid for no reason
its both amusing and disturbing that even suggesting that making real guns look like toys might be a bad idea, instantly triggers "they trying to take my guns away! you can come pry them from my cold dead hands!" crap
hybrid frigate
Maybe stop and consider the historical reasons for that.
viscid violet
Basic common sense gun safety would be not being able to own guns if you are nei...
Objects should never be banned or made illegal. Only actions.
humble terrace
and hope that your kids friend that comes over to play is also the child of a gu...
If a kid's over and gets their hands on an unsecured firearm, that's a problem. Doesn't matter if it looks like a toy or not.
viscid violet
Yeah... there's already laws about all that.
You're very much expected to secure your firearms around kids regardless of whether they look like toys.
slender oasis
and yet kids are killed all of the damn time because those firearms are so often NOT secured like they should be. only some states have those laws and those that dont cant get them passed because the gun enthusiasts again do the "the gummit is comming to take me guns!" shit. I try to keep an open mind on this stuff and see both sides of the argument... but you guys just pushed me firmly into the other camp. anyone that thinks guns looking like toys is ok should never be allowed to own a gun.
mossy urchin
Good thing you don't get to make decisions for other people then.
I'm sure my approach isn't the best but I consider it better than what is the status quo ;)
mossy urchin
Objects should never be banned or made illegal. Only actions.
I agree but If you can't enforce the actions, then you need more drastic measures against the objects used for the actions
mossy urchin
Happy to not be making decisions for a mass of people
viscid violet
and yet kids are killed all of the damn time because those firearms are so often...
Ah yes. The realization that laws don't stop stupid while arguing for more laws.
viscid violet
I agree but If you can't enforce the actions, then you need more drastic measure...
You can't enforce any of them until after the fact.
That's how reality works.
slender oasis
show me where I once said it should be a law? I simply said people should know better
infact I have been very careful not to get into laws and such because that is by its very definition poltical. I am just pointing out the safety problem with colorful toy looking guns and how it should be a common sense thing but whatever, done with this conversation
mossy urchin
You can't enforce *any* of them until after the fact.
That's how reality works.
That's how rules work. Rules are being put up after someone misbehaves, if nobody misbehaves there is no need for any written rules.
viscid violet
Crazy. A brand new 8 inch mitutoyo caliper just mysteriously showed up at my house for free
mossy urchin
That is indeed crazy
viscid violet
Will go nicely with my 6 inch one that mysteriously showed up for free.
I ask and the gods of QC provide.
mossy urchin
😂 which QC u talking about? where do you sign up? asking for a friend
tight river
Micrometers come in sets😜
viscid violet
What
tight river
You should order a set, micrometers get lonely
viscid violet
You buy
tight river
Nah, i just bought a house, I'm broke
viscid violet
Pics or gto
viscid violet
Yeah im not gonna doxx myself <:linxers:239109861642731520>
Interior would be fine nerd.
mossy urchin
Ominous green button
viscid violet
All it does is make fart noises
slender oasis
finally warm enough to get some paint on this https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/445610544162930699/1096463824414048347/ddfhhimage000000.jpg
tight river
All it does is make fart noises
You wish
tight river
finally warm enough to get some paint on this https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachm...
Looking nice!
main minnow
why does that ship look like something out of space engineeers
mossy urchin
Actually, it seems like those are all space engineer blocks so it actually is
main minnow
ik its possible to convert ships into stls
slender oasis
because its my ship from space engineers.
its the flagship for my mod NorthWind. I use it to show off all my weapons. wanted a scale model of it so I printed it in many many parts and put it to gether. now onto painting. most of the turrets are not on it, painting them seperate as its to easy to break the barrels off
mossy urchin
Ohhh wait you ARE The Northwind author!!!
slender oasis
yes
main minnow
oh damn i didnt even notice it was you Pilfit
viscid violet
