#Car gang
1 messages · Page 5 of 1
You got the tools and shit and wanna come over be my guess
Guest
I’ll assist
Can do it on the parking lot here lol
build an ultima, you need about £150 worth of tools to build one 🤣
Nah, this tuk tuk more fun
Tech is that a selfie
Yes but he had ai mod it
He doesn’t have hair or a beard lol
I have 2 car shows planned in the next week. Large show on Sunday and then next Saturday I am going to a Muscle car and Corvette Nationals show.
Hot. Where at
One is at a park, the other one next week is at a private car museum called the Gilmore Museum.
Cleaned the mess of wiring up. Put in a pair of bus bars so I don't need to run 4 wires to each battery terminal. Installed the signal processor.
Now I just need to find a usb cable to hook up my laptop for this signal processor and bobs your uncle
It begins. Headphone warning big time. Finally got my mic working. Might have a solution for the noise too. I bought an isolated 12v to 12v dc to dc converter. Going to try to power the android auto mirror with that. It fixed the noise I was getting on the DSP
Also hitting 110 dB in that car in that sweep. Should be more than enough for top down highway driving, but I guess I'll see.
I got this recommended
https://youtu.be/AaTi9KPxCwo
It's time to unveil this channel's current project, the Cyber-MX.
Some of you may have seen this car before, and to some of you it might be completely new. This is the start of a long term build series where I plan to cover every change and evolution of this Cyberyata.
I'm already working on the first of many changes to the build so hold on fo...
I have coworkers send me vids of a guy on insta/tiktok who put a motorcycle behind a tuk tuk
And one who put a hyabusa in one
Left for a car show at 5::30am this morning and didn't get back till 5:30pm. Long but fun day, 800+cars.
Damn. Not even the isolated converter solves the issue with the Android auto noise. If anything it's worse
That is because dc dc buck/boost converters are the lowest quality shit you can get. They're shit cheap and only do exactly what they're supposed to.
As said before - since your voltage spikes are in regular intervals, use capacitors as a noise filter!!
It's a victron.
And it did fix the issue for the dsp
And caps didn't fix it either. That was the first thing tried.
Yeah it can't just be any caps, they need to be chosen for the frequency I think I lined it out how to do that when I first mentioned it
Its not just one frequency though. It's a combination of static, a whine, and high pitch clicks.
I've seen the graph, it looked repeating to me (though multiple frequencies on top of each other)
For each of the frequency, you use a separate RC circuit which will filter out all of them, if you put them all in series
It would be easier to buy a 100w 120v pure sine wave inverter and plug in a USB charger than do all that.
Which I'm also not going to do lol
Except it might be possible that the USB-charger would give you another crappy signal
My solution is like $10 in parts with about an hour of soldering, together with half an hour of planning
It already works perfectly when powered from AC mains to USB outside of the car.
I won't do the soldering but I would provide you with plans for how to do it and what to do
I'd pay 10x that for a drop in solution.
I just said might depending on the quality of the USB charger xD
I could build and solder it but I can't be bothered
So you gotta live with crappy audio or pay 10x xD
I just said I'm fine with that.
I don't need to use that for audio
If you want to make some bucks, do it up. I'll pay for materials and shipping and if it works I'll give you many dollars more.
Also I have an urge to build a racing sim rig now
Since I don't have an exact signal to probe and also no access to multiple frequency generators I sadly do not feel confident enough to accept any money for it but if you'd give me more information (oscilloscope screenshots of multiple scenarios that might manipulate the noise) I would gladly run som simulations and calculations on how to fix said noise
I can only work with the data I have tho
Might be able to whip something up in like 2 weeks
Nothing I've done so far changes the noise measured.
If I get motivated I'll grab some readings.
Make sure to also include something like noise depending on rpm (do an rpm sweep and take a vid of the readings)
Ye, make it as watertight as possible, most lightbars I heard of just fail due to water ingress
Or maybe you can find light bars with IP68 certification?
Well it isn’t one to light
But one that’s like strobe warning
But I also needda get a light bar for winters as dark
Imma change the bulbs to led
But haven’t gone around to do such yet
Turns out using a decent BT adapter with this mirror solves the noise issue entirely.
Sound quality takes a hit running it through the mirror though. I might axe the entire thing and then the issue is moot. Just use my phone for navigation and audio.
Ohh god this is king of jank tier xD
Nah I don't have that much incentive to use android auto.
It's nothing the phone itself doesn't already do
Well yeah but an adapted interface which makes everything much easier. Also it supports potential steering wheel buttons xD
Which aren't a thing at all in my 1991 car. The sole value is the slightly easier interface, and it's very slight.
I do have to say as someone who owns a base trim 1996 car, going to a top trim 2005 is nice
my truck is a 2012 lol
got all the buttons, and with my new stereo they all work
also my android auto mirror would never support the buttons anyways since its chinese junk, not a stereo
Subaru in 2005 still didn't believe in aux ports though, so you still gotta spend $250 on a custom bezel, plus the cost of a new radio if you want aux, let alone bt, usb, micro sd, android auto, etc.
My only issue radio wise is previous owner cheaped out on a single din radio to go in a double din bezel, so there's a massive gap where you can see all the wiring and stuff
My differential is finished. 425 bucks
Not bad
But i assume it helps u dissasembled it and put it back together urself?\
All he had to was weld and coat it right?
The welding was free.99 and I painted it myself
Nice]
Yeah they rust converted the housing
Pretty sure the hitch alone exceeds the allowable tongue weight for that car.
Must be why you went with aluminum.
ive seen it done with a mini uhall trailer in the wild
I might have the aluminum bit modified to give me the clearance needed to put that tighter against the bumper
Depends how high it is when it's actually on the ground and has the trailer on it
Wait why does it have a ball on the bottom? 🤔
Two diff size ballhitch
Us likes to use so many vs europe where basically all is one size
I’ve seen hitches with 3 different sizes and a clevis loop
correct. I have 3 balls for it, that set comes out then a third size with just the one ball goes in. I bought it because its aluminum, its adjustable, and I can use it with my truck too.
so I got started putting the diff in today, fucked up a bolt, and realized I lost an important spacer. So now I get to wait till next week
Got the axles snapped in though. Tomorrow I'll probably button up the hubs and wheels. Then maybe Saturday finish up the trailer plug mounting.
Thought the crystalline structure of aluminum makes it a bad bet for such shearing forces 🤔
afaik aluminum is strong, until it rips, steel would be flexible and more reliable in such usecases
Pls correct me if I'm wrong
Rated for a lot more than my truck can pull. And steel is just as crystalline.
It depends on the way the aluminum was made and what aluminum was used
Funny fact: so called Transparent Aluminium is much much harder than aluminium 😃
That's true for steel too though lol
That's because it's not a metal anymore.
I know, it's more a "transparent ceramic"
Yeah. And neato.
If I would build a vehicle and had unlimited money, I would use it as my windows
very there are steels that are about as pliable as rope prior to heat treatment as wells as ones that take hours to make simple cuts in
Ah yes. Clearance.
New mud flaps who dis
Hunk of metal that doesnt move]
The only thing I'm waiting on is one bolt and it'll move.
I technically do have the bolt and could put it in. It's just got chewed up threads.
Big brick
At least I have a big brick to work on
Hehe
Id like to upgrade mine with a motorcycle engine but that requires so much work and experience and a spcae i dont got any of that
You know mine might be not drivable for the next week but you keep saying you're want to do all these mods. Where are the mods taxman? Where are the mods?!
Trailer wiring done.
As i said
I gt no experience and all
Did add a roof box it didnt come with from factory
Orther models did
Plus i upgraded the engine
You get experience by doing it.
All that be done by the shop
I could of done the engine work but i didnt have right tools, but if i where to engine swap that means lots of welding, designing a frame, swapping over a motorcycle and lots of electrical work
Plus making sure it stays road legal, altough i would register it as a car before hand
U have a garage i dont
Kind of a must for usch a projct
Rent a storage unit
*space
Pricey
I want to build a vehicle, but I am poor and large storage units are very expensive
Yeah its easily 150 a month
Plus welder and tools for such project id be out a grand, buying a used but not broken motorcycle is antoher few k
Metal and the likes
Plus as no experiecne its gnna be involving costly mistakes that will happen
For me that's a 3m×4m
I need a space that's at least 4m×12m
Thats not common in garage boxes
Ud better be off buying two in line and just tear the wall out lol
Altough i know some n rotterdam that got that
I know, but Campers usually aren't that large either🙃
Well tbf theyre usually stored in old warehouses or green houses
But u got a camper project or smth u wokring on
?
I want to build my own 1, my original plan was by starting off buying something 2nd hand like the Rosenbauer 6x6s, but I would be happy with a bus as well.
Neither.
I want to build it into a big camper, that has the ability to go off-road
Id say get a old daf or smth from the military and buy a box of a box truck from those cooler ones, shorten it and use the cuts to fill in the cooling units hjole and that type of crap
They do that to lots of old dafs u see, they just have a box of a cooling truck on thats cut and adjusted and then windwos fitted and such
Went to another car show today, this time at a car museum.
Yes, those are 2 all original 1969 Road Runners.
And the Mustang in the museum is a 1 of 1 1967 Shelbly GT500 convertable with the Mustang behind it being the only protype 1968 Shelby GT500.
I want something that isn't too old, or a literal truck.
We have them enough here but most have more than 1.5 million kilometre on the counter, I am not gonna trust that easily.
I also want to make it electric, so the more aerodynamic it is the better, and trucks are literally less aerodynamic than an old airport firetruck or a bus.
But either way u need a c license so might as well buy a big truck
Well tbf u can rebuild the engine if u gona buy a truck
But ive seen plenty of old dafs that didnt look the best some but plenty decent on auctions but also plenty of part batches being sold, that had like under 50k
They been running scania for a while now so old dafs and shit being yeeted out but plenty of those who didnt get much service
Anyways, why not buy a old ambulance
I can buy an old Rosenbauer 6x6 for that price, and it's already off-road capable.
I sure theres some sold here used or in germany thats a 4x4 version sprinter
So are those dafs tough, thats the thing, and 4wheels cheaper than 6xd
6 wheels are cool, I like the rule of cool, I prefer 8x8, but those are too wide.
And with trucks, they rarely have anything more than 4 wheel drive.
I usually see 6x2, 6x4, 8x4, 8x2, airport firetrucks are by default 4x4, 6x6 or 8x8.
I don't have to convert half of the drive train, which I prefer.
Tbf, it sucks we dont got 5tons like the us military
Those are a perfect base as u can literally throw on a 20foot container with some modifications and make it into a tiny home
If i where u id look for like a command truck or ambulance one
As those have a solid box already
Command ones might have slideouts tough
Like I said, I want as aerodynamic as possible, not a litteral wall like majority of trucks.
And the drive train is important to me as I want to be able to go over very rough terrain.
Well with what u want if u want like some aerodynamics there isnt much i believe military wise as thats what your more looking into
But with the size of those i assume its all gonna be c license so why not just import some from us for instance
As those got a big nose vs mostly flat
@vagrant knot this is what I mean with more aerodynamic.
And visibility is amazing in these things.
aerodynamic.
weighs 10 tons.
Kek
To be fair
They weight a lot less without equipment, less than 5 tons actually.
If you can gut the inside without ruining the outside, and build a floor it can work, i mean plenty of firetrucks that get the inside gutted, floor build and done, but that thing no matter what u win with aerodynamic is one heavy brick that your better of puttng wheels on a bungalow and driving that
Plus good luck getting one of those
Bigger airports retire and usually they be sold to different airports and such or oversea
Why not look towards germany for a old mercedes, i believe germany has lots of 4x4 cars they use in fd
Ever driven through snow?
More wheels you have the better.
Well old 4x4 mercedes dually?
Plus the germans might not all but lots there have the on the move chain system with push of button it starts spinning a motor with chains so u have on demand trie chains so to say
And who says you always have a tree strong enough to pull you out?
Well you can get just as stuck with a 6x6 as with a 4x4 van
Ya never know, just cause its a bigger truck doesnt mean its always better tough
Thats what im trying t say
The chance is smaller though, and the Panther 6x6s are actually not that big, smaller than a city bus actually, seen 1 in person sadly enough.
Yes it might be smaller but if u equip the van with a winch and some good tow hooks then your quite capable still
Ideally I would love to build my camper from the ground up, making an 8x8 with 4 axle steering to have more control over the cornering of the vehicle.
Tf u plan on taking it tough
Anywhere I want to go, I rather want to be prepared than not.
Although I rather want to be near the northern part of the planet, so any kinda grip and directional control is helpful.
Besides electric drive train can do some wacky stuff.
Well i feel a 8x8 will be too bg tough for most places
Any chance u watch diesel dave on youtube?
He has a big hempt i think
5axle 5x5
Not if you use 4 axle steering, then you can make turns sharper than a small hatchback.
5x5
Put big tires on it and a container on back
So it has 5 tires
I don't want to go combustion, I literally want to stay away from that.
He put really big air tires on it once as he had to go in a lake bed that was soggy as frick to recover something but that got plentyo f potentioal
Electric?
Yes, battery powered, charged by home/public charger or by the sun.
That thing will sit for a week charging on solar and wont make it for that far, especially offroad as that thing with where u wanna go needs lot of power
It's better offroad as it has near instant throttle control and per wheel control.
Also electric has tons and tons of power from the get go without build up, something combustion doesn't have.
The size and what u want i feel hybrid youd be better of
Hydrogen hybrid, I don't want to go with fossil fuels.
Yeah but it will require quite some battery banks for it and to charge it of solar in the wild and whatnot, and such
Who says I am in a hurry, I never hurry, if I have to wait a week, I will wait a week, if I have to hunt for food, I will hunt for it.
I hope by the time I can build my dream camper solid state batteries are already a thing.
Found a spacer. Have a local guy with the bolt I need. Just need to connect with him an this car can be on the road tomorrow.
Hell yeah!
Also I'm pretty sure I can fit my big freezer/fridge inside here with a single side of the bed in place. Which means I can have ice and everything if I go out solo
Just need to figure out a way to secure it somehow
Maybe a sheet of plywood side to side under the bed and a front/rear 2x4 to brace it that way.
Or maybe I go balls out and put tie downs in the floor
Why not just go with a cooler or a dometic?
... that's what it is lmao
You said “big freezer” and I imagined a chest freezer
It's a iceco specifically that has a nice Danfoss compressor. Roughly 20 watt average power draw and I have one side set to like 20F and the other at 39F
It is relatively large
But I also have a smaller single zone one
Oh nice
Yeah it's the cats ass. I have a roughly 80ah battery pack i built that I run that on for day trips
Both sides can be set to any temperature I want.
So two freezers, two fridges, large side or small side freezer, whatever.
The smaller one I have is a "3 in 1" which means it's got a compressor but I can also fill it with ice if I lose power somehow. I use that one usually for the day stuff since it's pretty rare I ever need to freeze anything.
They’re not all rust rotted!
The driver is tough
Yes
Gave up on the retrosound stereo. Once again I shut the car off and it stayed powered on and killed the battery.
You know that the radios usually have a cable input which delivers the main power for it that turns of with the ignition off?
There's also one thats always hot for retaining time and settings
Yes this is not my first rodeo. I'm the one who installed it.
All those wires function fine. The ignition wire shuts off with the key every time. The radio however, at random, does not.
This also was not an issue with the ancient Blaupunkt unit that was in there when I bought it.
Whatever they are using to sense the ignition wire to determine if it should be on or off is not reliable.
Every so often the thing locks up, reboots, and then resets all the settings too.
I know someone with that problem, they just constantly disconnect the cable from the battery when not driving
Ohh thats weird...
Maybe there's inductive currents or the ignition wire goes disconnected instead of to ground
sounds like a shitty radio tho
RVing in 2023 where the camper is always larger than the tow vehicle
The size is very misleading on weight unless you've got a decently educated idea of what that is.
That's what she said.
Did she also say you barely fit in it?
Yes
I need to replace my clutch but I can't really decide on what to go with...
Stock power = oem clutch.
For reference: Hyndai Coupe GK GLS 2.0 (G4GC motor) 5 speed manual with 200NM but I want to go boost in the future
Found some (seemingly fitting, 215mm) Clutch Kits via Autodoc:
- Oyodo 120€
- SACHS 146€
- AISIN 116€
Anything special to consider? Internet kinda unhelpful on the clutch specs like torque or material...
Yes but which manufacturer etc?
Found this in my workshop manual
I just buy "oe spec", rather than call the dealer and pay their prices.
Yeah but which one should I choose? They are all "oe spec"
I want the "best" "oe spec" that still has a good / reasonable price
I'd go with exedy
Any particular reaason?
They are pretty much the top brand in clutches.
Lots of manufacturers use their stuff for the original part. Including Mazda
Alright, good enuff for me >:)
@lost nest LS swap when?
uh, isnt that a twin engine?
Why stop at one?
cause there are better options!
EVs usually have 2 "engines", sometimes more
Now accepting 5 figure donations.
fuck evs, thats a car with twin engines
ive seen lawnmowers with 4engines
That’s the spirit
iirc single motor EVs are more common in sales
Not overhere, most common EV are the Polestar 2 Long Range and Tesla Model 3 Long Range.
Yes, and it's awesome
Last time I checked in Nissan leaf was the most popular electric car because it’s been on the market, the longest… but it’s always changing
I haven't seen a Leaf in 2 years now, even the Zoe is more common here
i never see leafs… but model 3 are rare beasts it’s mostly model S, etron GTs and porshe tycans
around here
I forgot the Q4 E-tron and E-tron, those are also very common here, the performance models that is
nope no high-end suvs around here
I didn't want such an obvious stereo but alas. The retrosounds one is terribly unreliable.
Loose belt on the AC. Squealing like a pig. Fixed.
My motorhome's AC is losing its cool now.
R12 system. grumbles.
Rip
One of my other cars is actually a very similar system (1990 Cadillac) to the motorhome (1992 Chevy G30 van), and I actually did a proper retrofit on it to r134, but even that stuff's not kosher anymore... Of course, I still have a probably 2/3 full cylinder of that, so that might be what I have to do.
It's just more pain in the ass than I want to deal with right now.
Miata kid in a group bout the 134A AC recharge kit from auto zone and put it into a 1992 miata that's intended for R12.
The 134a will destroy all of his orings over time.
Save a dollar up front to spend $500 later.
Isn’t that how most do it
yeah its fine with a newer car that uses 134a
AC recharge kit? whats that used for..? 🤔 All those terms sound electrical, yet you said something mechanical will fail. can you elaborate?
AC as in air-conditioning
The refrigerant tends to need refilling after a while, known as recharging.
Well no, that be refilling
Ohhhhhhh uhhh ahhh the gas is 134a but older compressors might go bad with the newer stuff
r134 won't work with the mineral oil that would be in an r12 system, and the common PAG oil used with r134's chemically incompatible with something I don't remember.
Proper retrofit minimally is system flush to remove all old oil, probably accumulator/receiver-drier replacement, new oil and charge.
In my specific case, I'd use a POE oil, and I'd also need to get an orifice tube with a slightly larger orifice. O-rings I'm not sure on, but it doesn't hurt to do if you're opening up the whole system.
I know what to do, I just don't want to because it's a pain in the ass.
Adding more refrigerant to an AC system is frequently referred to as charging / recharging.
I told him he made a mistake doing that then he stopped replying to everyone lol
One message removed from a suspended account.
I mean, if your not worried about a potential explosion, you could use propane for refrigerant. It will literally create snow in your vents.
Please don't actually do this/ I have seen it done but whoa boy its very dangerous.
R290 is definitely a thing. In the quantities used it probably isn't a substantial danger, but it is still very illegal for use in an automotive application.
Tin foil hat on here: It's illegal because there's no nice fat juicy patent on it like there has been on many of the other commonly used refrigerants.
probably
a small leak in a couple ounces of the stuff is hardly a danger compared to a full fuel tank
Yep. And considering LPG cars are legal, a pound or two in an AC system shouldn't scare anyone.
Still quite illegal though
I should clarify, the way I've seen it done is homebrew style. Which I really don't recommend.
the new R1234 is a close relative of propane
Turns out hydrocarbons make pretty good refrigerants
Even better if you mix them with other things (when you want to go really cold)
Most refrigerants are banned in usecases prone to puncture because of their huge climate impact.
Many of them behave like oil to water but in the atmosphere, creating huge ozone holes
If the gas is explosive, well theres your reason xD
Propane has zero ozone impact, and insignificant climate impact in the quantities we're talking about.
It's mostly artificial chemicals that have an effect on the Ozone
Which is, why I infact, excluded explosive (flammable) gases from this information 🤔
Too heavy
Finally found the subwoofer box I needed in stock. No idea if it'll actually work.
Hell yeah, lifted miatas are my favorite miatas
Hey, is this lifter tick or should I be concerned? Always been there afaik, car was driven warm in this recording
this is it on a cold start in 30°C weather
Absolutely no way to tell that from audio alone
Sounds a bit like lifters but I wouldn't bet my money on a discord diagnosis.
R1234YF the R134a replacement has this in its SDS
now odds are propane is more damaging and flammable then R1234YF is but the question is by how much
hmm aight - I'll find out if it explodes or when I do a rebuild before I put in a turbo - whatever comes first!
is this used often in automotive usecases or stationary HVAC systems?
1234YF is standard in most automotive since 2019 or so, I think.
Hmmm okay... can't explain that...
1234YF is better for the environment with a lower Global Warming Potential while 134a, is a greenhouse gas that is as harmful as carbon dioxide. Still, 134a was an improvement on R12 which has a staggering GWP of nearly 11,000 while 134a brought that number down to 1430.
The use of car air conditioning has been around for decades now, with many different types of systems being developed over time. One type that was popular early on was based on the R-12 (or freon) system. This came about because R-11 or carbon dioxide wasn’t considered safe enough due to its high flammability. However, Read More...
So weird, CO2 is both highly flammable and can extinguish fires😃
That article appears to be machine generated or otherwise garbage
I've read a quarter of it and feel I'm losing brain cells as I go.
Just remember, a gas used to extinguish flames for decades, is highly flammable
Yeah, it's just a bunch of words strung together in a roughly syntactically valid order.
ohh I've immediatly scrolled down some and it kinda checked out
If that article told me water was wet, I would doubt it.
Water actually doesn't have to be wet😃
C02 is not flammable wtf lol
It explicitly is not flammable and will not burn under almost any circumstances other than if you split the molecule.
Or if you atomically combine it with hydrogen to turn it back into what is essentially gasoline.
Oh I see. That fuckin stupid article lol
I was taking the piss of the article
yeah I read it after the fact lol
I know it's not flammable, we use it to quickly sub-zero freeze shit.
And it's also used in some of our fire extinguisher systems
@lost nest fb marketplace be like
Ngl though, if i had fuck you money, i'd get an NC miata in that color
..why does the roof look so goofy? 😂
That's just NA (1st gen) miata hard tops for ya
The car was made to be a convertible, hardtop was an option iirc
Unlike Mercedes’ who came out with a hardtop soft too from the get go
Downside is most that run soft top is old and not used as much so it’s a pain in the ass to get it to close on to the front window 😂
I have a hard top for mine.
They're stupid expensive in the US because of the spec miata racers. I think they're required to have the hard top.
Either that or it's just so much lighter than the soft top that they all want it.
NC worst miata.
NC best miata.
As someone who drives a turbocharged wagon, weight does not bother me
No point in owning a miata if that's the case though. Just buy a C5 Corvette for 12k
Or if you have fuck you money a C6, 7, or 8.
My only issue with the c6 was an inability to do less than double the speed limit.
Nah i just really like how it looks
Rx8tho
Actually the rear door shit ruins that car.
Also I feel like that's modded
Oh yeah it is. Big time.
They look way doofier stock
Similarly modded na but with a wing
That nc do be cool though
what does NC stand for?
Just a model designation that comes from the VIN.
Note the NB in this example
So with that mine is... JM1NA352xM...... something.
And it was built in the second half of the year because it's a long nose crank
ahh that makes sense
Or it is cause all the soft tops are shit
Soft tops cost a fuck ton less than the hard top
You can get a decent vinyl one for a couple hundred dollars. You can get a cheap bikini top for like a hundred
Yeah, anyone who wants a 2005 legacy gt wagon pretty much has to get a limited trim version which is another 200+lbs, cause way more people bought the higher trim limited than the lower trim unlimited. I know 200lbs on a 4 door wagon isn't nearly as important as 200lbs on a roadster, but it still sucks.
Sunroof, heated seats, power mirrors, under-seat subs, nothing performance.
But granted the car was about $30k in 2005 money
Well for the miata is the same ass car they just pull 4 bolts and throw the soft top in the trash.
But it can't be more than a couple pounds savings. Both seem to weigh the same to me, so there must be a spec requirement.
A hard top is probably safer
It's plastic bullshit vs a steel frame on the soft one so idk about that
Ah, i didn't know lmao
Yeah there's not much to it
I can put the hard top on by myself and I'm a chump these days
Note the hard top hanging up there
Yeah, as always the weight is in the glass
Yep
Hence the sunroof options always being heavier on cars with them
I doubt i'll ever actually use mine either
It becomes a greenhouse super quickly with the cover open and the glass itself closed
Considering the rest of the car is a fishbowl
Visibility is the best i've ever been in with those subaru wagons
And sunroofs like leaking
And otherwise just breaking
On mine, it has two sections of glass. The front section is supposed to come up, and the back section slides back. The front is stuck down.
Though tbf in the case of sunroofs, extra weight also has to be afforded to make up for the structural integrity loss the opening provides
I had a black corvette with a transparent roof. Nothing I've ever owned since is as hot as that car was.
But the steel one probably buckles in versus the hard top has some structural bits so it won’t buckle upside down, but most likely it’s for flying debris soft top it gets ripped trough easier than the hard top
The hard top has zero structural bits.
That last point is probably the reason though.
But in a roll over on its roof I bet the soft top crushes and buckled while hard top not much
As solid piece that spreads the weight
Surprised they don’t have a bar behind the seat
Most older cars even with soft top hard top combo had a structural bar so even if you’d crash it’s like a structural bit combined with the window pillar that’s teinforced so it doesn’t fold and crush you if you land upside down
Did see a Miata a while back with roll cage, seems that didn’t have a roof possible to fit
Most roll cages will fit under the soft or hard tops.
The miata windshield can't support the car in a rollover so it's very safe like that. As long as you don't mind being flattened into your seat.
The new ones have all that rollover protection.
Old ones we die like men.
Unnecessarily and over something stupid.
PACO PARTS ARE HERE.
But my back hurts so nah.
Which of y'all are trying to power a pc with your exhaust spinnymajigs?
I think someone has misunderstood turbo boost technology!
Supposed to be 90F and 90% humidity later. Rip plans to work in the garage.
I'm going to cross post this over in the cave, but, I think these plugs were SLIGHTLY overdue.
Bit of wire brushing, they will be good for another 100k
a bit?
Just run some sandpaper between the electrodes, and then finely adjust the gap with your finest gap adjuster
She'll be good for another 100k after that
there are cars with Iridum plugs that have half that recommended service interval
Pretty sure subaru EJ's are that or less
Also those spark plugs take a very skilled hand to get out. Or many hours swearing at them.
Or pulling the engine.
Ford plugs automatically eject.
Or both
Yeah. So the problem is that it's a boxer engine, and the spark plug access is right up against the chassis structure, so you really have to finagle some swivel sockets in there to get to them. I'm convinced the only reason magnetic swivel spark plug sockets exist is for boxer engines.
my na sg forester wasnt too bad. just needed to pull out the airbox, battery, and washer reservoir. once those were out there was decent access.
Could be, all I know is the only ones with Boxers are Porsche, Subaru and BMW Motorrad.
2005-09 Legacy/Outback doesn't need anything pulled out, just have to maneuver around the chassis.
well I dont have a legacy... anymore. my poor 94 2.2l 😦
whacked it into a cliff face at about 80km/h (not head on)
Rip
apparently bounced off it twice
Have you seen my legacy btw?
maybe? but cant specifically remember
#1050573453503242241 message
The fun part about that is i can't even normally access imgur myself anymore
Cause my adblock/privacy firefox extensions make imgur think i'm trying to ddos them, due to the spoofed info.
Happy with the top mount, not doing anything more than what's on there (300hp if that)
It's an aftermarket top mount tho
Hell, if i could, i'd be replacing half the mods with oem for the sake of reliability. I just wanna drive it.
fair
But that costs more in the short term than going with what's on there.
Even then, i really wanna replace the (assumedly) stock turbo with one that is less likely to grenade itself, probably a vf52 just cause they're easier to find afaik.
The current thing keeping it off the road is lack of tune
Cause previous owner slapped the stage 2 bs on there and didn't know you gotta tune it
stock ecu?
Yeah
darn. not one of those fancy learning ones then 😦
and cant do a road tune all that easily either
Cheaper in the short term to just get a tune if you aren't constantly throwing new parts on.
Which i won't be doing
Not myself no. Etuner's will typically allow road pulls as long as you aren't doing anything crazy
If i was doing anything more than this, i'd be getting a dyno
other than than a later years wing mirrors my forester is bone stock. I really do need to sort out the extra wiring for the folding and heated mirrors though 🤔
with any luck the heated mirrors should just be a switch needing to be installed (it was available on higher trims for the year, and the wires are there in the door)
but the folders were just a later year thing iirc, and needs wires run 😦
iirc mine has heated mirrors, but i could be wrong
its not really needed. but I have them so I want to be able to use it 😆
It'd be nice af here in northern Utah
But the heated seats are very welcome
Sunroof not so much
was an accident anyway, went to the wreckers to snag a pair of mirrors since both passenger and driver housings were fubar. the glass was fine though
didnt notice I was grabbing off a later year (or jdm import, or both) until I went to install it and found the plug had more pins than the harness in the car 😆
I need to go to a wrecker at some point, my grocery list is ever growing
Of just little things that aren't worth the cost to have them shipped new
my big thing right now is that I need the timing belt done, and the front left wheel bearing is getting a bit tired.
aaaand im balking on the price to get it done. not stuff I am comfortable (or have tools) to do myself
especially not with how fun it is to do the timing on the EJs
If i could, i'd love to snag some used shocks and struts
To replace the shitty ebay special $200 maxpeedingrods coilovers that are on there now. I'd rather have cinderblocks for suspension.
Cause this is how they are rn
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/491946292780728331/858882082721366066/our_racelands.mp4
looks smooth
there is a version that is so hard to get it it has its own removal kit
One of my bikes has a custom tool for it.
Ford just had shit castings a few years ago that blow out the plugs out
And by few I mean like 15 years ago but whatever
I heard about those only recently there is another ford plug that tends to leave bits of its self behind when you take it out
The amount of times i've accidentally unironically called my 2005 legacy "a few years old" is way too much.
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It's CARS AGAINST HUMANITY 2 in which we play CARDS AGAINST HUMANITY but the CARDS are CARS from FACEBOOK MARKETPLACE and the PROMPTS are MADE UP by YOU leave one in the comment...
1: they are shit to begin with 2: the rubber sticks out further than the metal
3: they might end up replaced soon
4: they make a nice parts cup
so the type of monster that tries to defend the undefinable!
Another car show with the Camaro today, all Vettes and Camaros.
And somebody got a video of me driving the car into the show.
https://youtu.be/pqW2sMk-GdA?t=103
A video of the Corvette & Camaro Car Show at the Gilmore Car Museum near Hickory Corners Michigan 7/16/2023
@river relic you wanna see a sad sight?
https://imgur.com/gallery/WkjNjWu
https://imgur.com/gallery/Te0ZYkq
I hate that this thing is rotting away in my uncle's field, but i'm in no situation to restore it.
But afaik it's a unicorn, 73 RS Z28 with the 396 (which they stopped including as an option in 1973) and Air Conditioning (which they only started putting in with the 73 model year)
My headcanon is that due to the 1972 strike at the plant that made these, this thing sat on the line half completed with the 396, and when they went back to work, they just completed the car with 1973 specs.
See if u can store it on a concrete pad and cover it so then gras won’t grow in it
No concrete anywhere, it is literally in the middle of a field
Cant park it on somewhere it ain’t grass? Least that should help a bit with like rust from plants growing into it and holding water
Nah, click on the link and you can see the environment it's in
Not much i could do other than put a tarp over it
It's also been parked there since like 2001
If i didn't already have a project car (which is also my daily), that would be my project car, and i still want it to be one day.
But that requires a stable, good paying job, which i don't have.
I'd especially love it cause i think it'd be something my dad would love to work on with me
He tries to help with my subaru as best he can, but he doesn't understand it much. He'd know more about that Camaro than i currently do, cause he grew up working on cars from that time.
But why don’t you move it to your place even if the daily is a project as is
Probz can do simple things on the 73 to restore or prevent more rust
Don't have room, and it's not mine, i'd still have to buy it from him and even though he has no intention of restoring it himself, it still sounded like he wanted to sell it for more than pennies.
Ah I see
I might be able to convince him to just give it to me, but even if i do, i don't have anywhere to put it currently.
👁️👄👁️
One of these things is not like the other.
I'd kill for those pneumatic car lifters
They're hydraulic lol
And you don't have to kill, just fork over a couple grand to quickjack.
They've paid for themselves already though, in that I usually give a hundred bucks to a guy I know who owns an automotive shop to use his lift and tools after hours.
Look at the difference between the rear and front now.
That's what i meant lmao
I mean this either isn't the best angle, or i'm missing what you're talking about
the front rotors are barely visble. the rear control arm is visibly several inches lower
Wait do you mean the lift?
Ah
Yeah i see it now
I was looking for actual different parts lmao
As long as it rides better than my pos maxpeedingrods
Which, btw, are getting replaced with rockauto oem-like struts and shocks.
I have MeisterR Sportives
Cause i don't have the money for anything nice
And tbh i just want it to be driveable rn, once it's driveable, then i'll look into upgrading it.
Cause the subie is meant to be my daily, but it currently still needs at minimum a tune
I still need a lift for the Camaro, but I have a pit in the garage so that helps at least.
I don't even have a garage
Time to go buy a $20 ball joint separator.
Just bought a telescopic spring compressor so I will be able to do the coil springs on the Camaro finally. Was always wary of doing them until I found this style of spring compressor. So much safer.
Ball joint separation went with one hell of a bang but the passenger side is done.
So. I've never used a ball joint separation tool like this one. Usually a pickle fork or a straight up hydraulic press, so I had this thing on and cranked down to the max and it's not budging
Very lightly tapped the end while explaining to my gf how everything is bullshit
BANG
"Oh. Well. Nevermind."
I don't see the separation tool in the photo? Maybe I'm just blind.
Ive only ever used pickle forks to separate the joint.
There you go
I have never even seen that kind before. I would have had no clue that was for ball joints. What a weird looking contraption.
It goes under the steering knuckle, between that and the ball joint. The pointy bit presses the stud through the knuckle.
I had to look up a video lol
that is easy enough to fix
Yeah. I was just thinking about the geometry and it makes sense. I'm doing two things at once that will pull against the tie rods. Lifting it by forcing the ends of the control arms down as though the wheels are in the air, AND extended ball joints kicking the bottom of the knuckles out to correct the camber.
My cousin is a mechanic and alignment tech so I'll get it sorted.
Is it me or am I the only 1 wanting to make small cars offroad capable
I’m glad I keep my tuk tuk in gear
Someone tried to either move it for fun and couldn’t much as in gear or tried to steal it
No damage I could see but they moved it a bit
Bro I'm literally posting photos of a miata getting a lift kit
I thought it was on a crane, I didn't know it was a lift kit
I missed that all together
Someone go put my car back on my lift and straighten out those wheels
I won’t but I’ll yell at someone that can
Wait a minute. I am the only one here that can.
shut up nerd
no u

im not a nerd'
If you paid me a decent living wage i'd gladly sit there and work on your car all day lmao
Talked to the owner of fast forward superchargers because the 90-93 was taken off the website.
They've got one intake manifold available for the 90-93, wont get anymore this year, and if the guy they have doesn't decide to buy the kit by tomorrow he's going to send me the invoice.
you are supercharging? why not turbo?
Cause why not
Superchargers are amazing at the low end and have a lovely destinct whine to it.
Turbos have a drawback with turbo-lack
As an owner of a car which when supercharged hit 80% peek torque at 4200rpm with peek power at 7500 rpm, then when turbo converted hit peek torque at 1200 rpm hitting peek power at 6700… you’re talking about a subset of engine/charger configurations
Superchargers are driven by an engine belt most of the time, which gives you torque at the start of the torque curve.
Which also has an advantage in weaker engines.
Turbos rely on exhaust gas to operate, that's why there's turbo lag, which also can mean you need more power to make the turbo work reliably.
My parent's car, thanks to efficient fuel burn, what Mazda engines are known for, turbos will have less of an effect on these engines than a supercharger.
My Mazda engine does not burn fuel efficiently
Efficient fuel burn, not as in efficient engine.
I love how modern Mazdas still lack a turbo, and instead use a supercharger
Displacement superchargers are very inefficient at extremely low rpm as the amount of air by compressing is disproportionately small to the amount of resistance of compressing and mechanical parasitic losses. As the rpm rises, the parasitic losses of physically compressing via displacement will increase more quickly than the volume of air being compressed. to resolve this issue, you naturally push the peak efficiency of the supercharger down the rev range to ensure that any airflow instability in the very low supercharger rpm is hidden at or below idle. The result is that you get really good lower mid to upper mid talk but tails off the side. if the supercharger is dimensions correctly, you will get no negative supercharge affects at normal driving rpm.
Centrifugal superchargers work, like turbos. The efficiency of centrifugal compressors is pushed way way up into the high rpm range. if you have dimension to supercharger correctly, you should be hitting the sweet spot at just above the middle of your rpm range with the compressor going just off boost at the rev limiter. this pushes all of the talk up into the top half to 3rd of the weather range, making a very peaky engine. vantage of the superchargers is, they are light and have very low parasitic drawers. they are also very compact, for this reason they are often used for racing and motorbike conversions
As for the dimension of turbos, and where the compression is efficient and inefficient in the range that is a huge topic. In the case of the car that I drove, it had two low-pressure but very high volume turbos, which were in a compound arrangement, each of them, getting their own independent exhaust system to maximise scavenging postturbo, and also reducing the effective exhaust pressure postturbo. The net result was an extremely responsive engine, which has a sharper throttle response than most normally aspirated engines using a fly by wire throttle.
I also had a car which had a single relatively large turbo and I would completely agree with you. Yes it didn’t start to work until well past 2000 rpm and it did have a lot of turbo lag up to about 5500 rpm. Beyond that 5500 rpm, the turbos were pretty much spilled up all the time, so there was throttle lag because it was dumping the excess pressure anyway..
also, the engine size matters at the end of the day there are limits to how big and small you can make turbos and supercharger is of what any type you choose so therefore if your engine is too small or too big, you are forced into one regime or another. If you can get direct injection of petrol going, then you can run much higher compression levels which favour low boost high-volume turbos assuming you can keep the knock in check. this is why a lot of high compression high boost engines actually run pretty much pure ethanol. Detonation in ethanol is much harder so therefore you can push the boost higher and higher and higher. You also contaminate the input with excess moisture to help cool the charge down.
extra moisture in the inlet track actually reduces turbo lag by increasing the mass of the object today, which can push the turbo harder for a given exhaust volume so therefore spins up faster….
Then why would a company like Mazda use superchargers over turbos just so you don't have the turbo lag and have a smooth torque curve instead?
As far as I understand from turbos is that they negatively impact lower rpm, while superchargers work simultaneously with the engine to produce power.
Turbos are much harder to manage. you have over boost conditions, in high compression ratio scenarios, you have under boost conditions where you have significantly more vacuum caused by the turbo. your thermals are much harder to manage a lot of energy is transferred from the exhaust into the intake which multiplies your heat superchargers do not do this. A centrifugal supercharger, which is basically a turbo, but driven off the engine is typically putting about 30% of the thermal energy into the intake air.
turbo engines need much better control over their oil system and run higher oil pressures. They cannot stand nearly as much debris in the oil mean in your oil filter needs to be better. This comes with engineering issues over the oil system as well as much shorter oil lifespan. you also need better control of the cylinder temperatures so now you’re adding complexity into your cooling system and also adding additional load into your cooling system. Therefore you’ve now need bigger water pumps, bigger radiators…. in short superchargers are preferred as they simply let the engines last longer. The problem is that you lose a lot of the power that you gain. if I remember correctly, the jag XKR at peak power was losing 120 to 150 brake horsepower purely to its supercharger, This meant the engines nominal 300 odd brake horsepower was actually more like 450
But why do majority of cars produce more power when supercharged and not lose it.
And why does the older Ford GT has a massive twin-screw supercharger?
The majority of cars converted from superchargers to turbochargers, see huge gains in maximum output
The general expense of this is engine life
For instance, for the same level of boost of my car, I went from 305 to 482 brake horsepower
However, an additional 40 to 50 kg of mass was added, purely to the oil and water cooling systems
The engine also was Right on the edge of overheating when ever, you got into stop start traffic where previously it was comfortably cool with less equipment required to call the oil and water
It sounds not beneficial to me to be honest, I want a vehicle to last as long as possible.
which is why superchargers are often preferred. The problem is they consume far more fuel than an equivalent output turbocharged engine and/or produce more power, depending on what your compromises are
there is a reason that the majority of small city cars are very effective at variable volume by turbo, rather than supercharger.
that reason is fuel economy that use less fuel. With my car going from the supercharger to turbo conversion conversion reduce the amount of fuel used in day to day drive driving by about 25 to 30%
However, the estimated engine life went down from 190,000 to approximately 120,000 miles
Basically, you need less technology to supercharge engine than to turbo charge it
That's odd though, my parents car drives 1:18 (L:KM) with a 2.0L with 150HP, which is as high as most turbo-charged cars with a smaller 1.4L turbo-charged car.
My dad was surprised that my company's cars, Seat Ibiza was using as much fuel as our Mazda 6.
The Seats are 1.4L Turbo charged, while the Mazda 6 is 2L supercharged
That is not a supercharged engine, that output is a normally aspirated, 2 L Mazda engine
There is a Mazda technology which has a supercharge or supercharger in its name which is not a supercharger, but it’s talking about the way something works. I’m not sure of the exact details because I have not looked very hard in any Mazda engine other than the rotaries.
The SkyActive-X, which our car has, is apparently supercharged.
Just a tiny supercharger
No, it’s not it’s not got a supercharger in it, not in a displacement of centrifugal terms
The sky active X is nominally a normally aspirated engine all variants
That is technically wrong
The air pressure in the intake manifold is not increased compared to the air pressure in the airbox at any point
as it never gets into a positive boost scenario, it is never considered supercharged or turbocharged
as I said, there is a Mazda technology which uses supercharged or supercharger in its name, which is not actually supercharging.
All I know it drives nicer than every turbo-charged car I have driven.
Even then I barely use their car.
also, given the Engine is extremely high compression ratio in the cylinder. Any form of boost is problematic. there may be a device to help increase the airflow and get over intake drag, but it never gets into that positive boost scenario. In that case it should respond like a very nice smooth, revving flat talk curve NA engine
it looks like there is a device in the intake tract, which actively sucks air out of the airbox effectively eliminating the resistance for the engine, drawing air through the filter and intake track. it’s always in a negative pressure scenario, so therefore he’s not considered charging. Assuming I’m looking at the correct patent
For some reason, Mazda makes amazing engines, it's all I know.
in that sort of lower high capacity engine range, they do look nice.
They drive smooth and respond quick, I like there's no delay between the gas pedal and the engine revving.
It's not like other cars where you press the gas pedal and it has like time to respond, not talking about my company's Ibizas.
they still don’t compare that well to a small well remanufactured, turbo charged 1.5L engine from BMW. and almost legless, 217 brake horsepower with as good if not better fuel economy. that is kind of hard to tell as that good unit is only available in a hybrid.
I never driven a hybrid, never saw a reason to, okay I actually do drive 1 but not in the usual sense.
I mean on paper, it gets absolutely slaughtered with an average mpg of about 85 to 90, but you know you can’t compare it because it’s got a bloody battery in the back of the car
I drive an HEV, which actually is a hybrid.
The plug-in hybrid I drive. The great thing is you’ve got about 45 miles around town on,electric but you don’t also have the advantage of five minute fill ups to get an extra for 500 miles of range without having the inconvenience of going down to London every single time you want to fuel up because that’s where all of the hydrogen stations are…..
I drive a Toyota Mirai, refuelling is a true pain, but at least I drive cheap.
It’s a minimum 130 mile round trip to get fuel for me
True hybrids driven by the ice or electric are pretty capable. Mostly they use the electric motor to augment the ICE and take over when simply cruising
I know from usual PHEVs that the ICE only charges the battery.
no, most of them, the engine drives the wheels and is augmented by a motor. This is why they end up typically having relatively high output because you say combine 170 brake horsepower engine with a 85 hp motor, both of which are needed to drive the vehicle easily on their own, but combined give you significant performance
I can only think of a Vauxhall and the range extended i3 off the top of my head which have the combustion engine working as a generator engine.. I’m sure there are more, I’m just not aware of them
For me luckily 2KM, can drive around 600KM if I am careful, and only pay like €35.- to refuel the damn thing.
Funny enough the Mirai is slow, still having fun taking over my company's Ibizas though.
Mild-hybrid usually do combine power, plug-in usually has the ICE as a generator, unless you're Volvo or Bentley, which have the electric motor in the front and ICE power in the back.
I know from my HEV that I have around 20KM battery power, don't ask me how I know, I ran out of fuel more than once.
Vaxuhall, Volvo, VAG, BMW, Mercedes, Citroen and Hyundi all use dual drive PEHV
I’m not sure about the Toyota prius. I seem to remember that the plug-in hybrid had a CVT gearbox for the engine, but I’m not sure on that one. I’m not even sure if there’s if there’s a plug-in Kia not looked at Ford so there may well be all generator hybrids.
A lot of plug-in hybrids will actually overload the engine when cruising with the engine on to recharge the battery because the engine output efficiency is actually higher at higher loads so if you drive the generator with the engine as well as pound the vehicle forwards, you get more efficient use of the fuel that you have
plug-in hybrids tend to have a back of gearbox drive which can be the sole motive power unit
Opel Ampera 2012 uses 1 electric motor to power the front wheels, the ICE is just a generator, I once asked this to my neighbour that has 1.
He even showed me the ICE can stay active to charge the battery when the vehicle is turned off.
if you want to talk about plug-in hybrids, the most sold plug-in hybrid drivetrain is a fully automated clutch ZF 7 speed auto with an output motor
Depends on the generation, I know early models only drove electric under 30 KM/h.
That may be, why I’m not sure then
The Opal would be the Vauxhall I was talking about.
Haven't been following the Toyota Prius all that much because it's in Europe 1 of the most problematic hybrids.
We just use Vauxhall for the branding of Opal cars
Just trying to remember the European name for Vauxhall and couldn’t remember
I know, but what I found out, the Chevy Bolt is theoretically the same car, but you can't choose between the modes like on the Opel Ampera.
So maybe Vauxhaull could do something different as well.
The Chevy Bolt decided by itself if you drove electric or as a mild-hybrid.
The Opel Ampera you could choose between electric or with the generator.
there is a Vauxhall, which is a generator plug-in hybrid, but there are also other plug-in hybrids, which are combined output drive trains
It’s less efficient in the transmission
Also the battery packs in Hybrids aren’t meant to sustain a load the same way a PHEV or EV is. They’re designed for rabid charging and discharging instead to improve the ICE efficiency
Some Puegoet uses generator based PHEV, as no matter what mode you put it in, you can choose between 2WD or 4WD.
The drive motors are also actually optimised for maximising efficiency, when being used as an electrical generator rather than a motor.
I know Toyota once tested a super capacitor instead of a battery for in their Prius.
being able to switch between two wheel and four-wheel-drive does not mean it’s a generator platform. The Volvo dualdrive, for instance, is effectively a front wheel drive car until it starts to detect any sort of slip, then slowly, but surely put his power to the rear wheels. This is regardless of the motor or the engine output, pushing the car along, because it sits interior to the distribution differentials.
and now we’re onto what compromises did you make in your battery design? 🤣
None that I can tell so far. I’m about to hit 200k miles
Impossible, every single battery is a set of compromises 😝
lol true
I once sat in the 3008, which had an option for EV or combo, with 2WD or 4WD, or full automatic.
I’ll keep taking the 40 - 50 mpg on my daily commutes
But it's battery range is like 20KM I believe
I will take a Volvo, V 60 with exactly the same optional in the car. With its seven speed, automatic gearbox, and if you run the battery down it’s stupid amount of turbo lag!
How would I calculate for my HEV?
Like it has a 4KG tank for 600KM
I want to know how Volvo managed to make a 300 brake horsepower 2 L turbocharged petrol engine that has more turbo lag then of 1.6 L, 350 brake turbo charged engine
I want the EX90, sadly I am not that rich🙃
EWW an SUV! (doesn’t like most SUVs inc crossovers)
There’s nothing wrong with the vehicles in principle, it’s just I actually like to be able to see around my car properly
I want something big, it annoys people on the road here as they either drive sedans, cross-overs or small town cars.
And the EX90 is big enough to be a proper SUV
Preferably I would love an electric Escalade, but to get the normal 1 into the country I can buy 2 EX90, and to convert the Escalade to EV I can buy an EV6-GT with it as well
See, I’m the opposite I want something small and quite low to the ground so i’ve got as much visibility in my critical view area as possibly
to give you an idea, i’m looking to ev convert a smart roadster!
People here drive like assholes, and the smaller the car the less they care about you.
Drive prestige cars, then talk about people, not giving a shit. I would quite like people to not give a shit! it would be refreshingly stressfree!
that’s another reason I’m going for a smart build
Or drive an ugly car like a Toyota Mirai, then you'll be the topic of the day apparently here.
I assume you mean the old style not the new one because from what I remember the new one is rather nice
I have the 2017 model, got it for 20K with only 20K on the counter.
I thought it was a nice deal
okay it’s not as nice as i thought. it’s just much nicer than your gen (i’m not sure how Toyota managed to screw up the styling that much, but then again I have seen the current Toyota supra! 🤮)
that said what you really care about, is how the inside of the car looks! Because that’s the bit, you have to look at all the time
With everything in the middle of the dash, which I still don't understand as I prefer it in front of me.
I have an iPad mount for my iPad Mini where the speedometer usually should be.
And to be honest, I love the look of my ugly car, I am planning on wrapping is soon to show the curves more, although on the taillight I am planning on putting some red reflector stuff there so the taillight looks like it's 1 piece instead of 2.
Oh, like the Tesla model 3?
That car looks like a fish
inside not outside
The speedometer in the Mirai 2017 is literally in the middle, like you have to look slightly to the right to see it.
Where they usually are in normal cars it's just flat, I put an iPad holder there.
Or is that what you mean?
Also Toyota, how can you make the navigation system so unclear.
Yes, but a lot uglier
Yeah, that looks like it was penned by the same people that made the Supra design
I can say, I hate the interior
But then I prefer the EQS interior
Which most people hate
I like my AM’s interior! two lovely satin Al dials, with just enough information around it for you to know what’s going on and no more
Just give me displays
I am also more distracted by buttons than displays for some odd reason
It’s certainly the best of the all glass interiors I’ve seen, but I just hate all glass interiors
I love it, easy to clean, no tactile buttons that distract my ADHD brain
The irony being that physical buttons and dials make for safer driving
touch interfaces for important things in a car are fucking stupid
physical, tactile buttons and dials all the way
Or exceptional interface design with touch displays that don’t require you to look at them
But who’s got time for that
1: the guy canceled so I'm on deck to buy it.
2: it's a TVS 900 supercharger. The guy who started the company designed the kit explicitly for the application I have in mind which is touring around pulling a small trailer and an empty wallet.
Quoter mile run in our 99 Supercharged Miata ~205whp (~240bhp), with 225/45-15 Street Tires on Kosei 15x7 rims, 91 Octane pump gas,
Our FFS standard kit is Plug and Play on the Cold side, uses stock ECU, it has no need for intercooler, and it is CARB compliant.
Visit website for more info: http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/products.html
nice
any one here have any experience with the venerable 22RE and it idiosyncrasies
like why the car will do 35 in 4th but not 40?
Not really but that seems to me the gearing is off so it won’t do it in 4th
it is just 40 that it detonates in 4th I can do 35 (just above idle) and 45-70 in 4th if I give it more than a hair of throttle at about 40-45 it starts detonating
What are the actual rpms?
They are, but they also distract me more, like you know, a fidget toy.
As a general rule with touchscreen is you need to physically look at them while you are interacting with them. This means you are not looking at the road. Subconsciously fiddling with a dial and not looking at it is far less of an issue.
It is an issue if the dial is related to the infotainment display😃
Besides I never use the touch display while driving.
Climate control is always on automatic and has the temp on 20°C, and music is through my phone or iPad, which are literally in front of me.
I don't have a tack sadly,
I shift based on speed and engine sound
You're gonna need steps to get in and out
making a rally speck miat feels worng
just slap a big wing on the back and a bucket of lights on the front
if he adds light bars they should also pop up with the head lights
I just imagined them popping up out of the soft top 😆
No put a roll cage on and have the bar roll the lights up
I forgot that roof ounting was also comon I was thinking of the grill mounted ones
when engine go wrroooaaaaeeeeEEEEE right hand go BAM BAM 💥 😎
and maybe exhaust also go BAM BAM
Roll cage on these has to go under the soft top so it's a no go.
No that can still work. You hit the light switch, top retracts, lights flip up and on
Anything that flips up will just hit me in the head when it's down
Even the roll bar is technically unsafe as it's so close to the occupants heads.
Helmet
Flip back to front
I was thinking light bar just behind the radiator
the engine fan is louder than the engine so that is what I use
Sure that isn’t an airplane you’ve got?
almost the fan engine driven with a thermal clutch
but the engine is not that loud compared to the injectors/valves and the fan especily at higher RPM
the muffler is almost larger than my fuel tank
I want a brush bar and winch, but my headlights are already stupid bright
Alignment done. Exhaust leak located.
I have a full stainless catback. The cheap catalytic converter I bought is missing half the weld
so not so easy fix
30 second weld
1 minute of bolts
I got the technology.
Just gotta pop it back up on my lift and pull out 4 bolts
forgot that you can weld
Find me a set that's only 25" in diameter.
understand that one I have R14 rims so I get no tire options
These are 15 but I will buy 14 inch wheels if I can get an all terrain tire in roughly 25 to 25.5 inch diameter
R14 tires all but don't exist
granted I need an odd size even then 70/225 so...
like the tire shop recommended getting R15 rims so I had options for tires
Depends on the brand and size. Hankook still makes plenty of 14s, and well as Uniroyal. If your looking for nostalgic, Coker tire if you can afford it.
yeah, but I need all terrains lol
What size (I work in the tire industry)?
I have hankook as they were easily the best option but as you said there are not many options
Tire Rack shows Cooper Cobras, BFG Radial TA, General Altimax RT45 and the Hankook Kinergy ST all available in 225/70/14. Of those options I'd go with the BFG personally, the general isn't bad either.
14 or 15, prefer 15 since that's what I have, and they can't be larger than like 25.5" diameter
those are pushing 26", and I am not entirely sure they will fit - but I might be able to have my buddy keep an eye out for something using that size and see if it'll fit
Gonna be hard pressed to find an AT tire that is 25" in diamter that would fit on your application. Smallest tire BFG makes on their TA K02 is a 215/75/15 and thats a 27" diamter tire.
yep
I can get sick ass rally tires though
Wait, General makes a 205/75/15 in their Grabber A/Tx.
thats a 27
Might be the smallest AT tire you can go though.
Hankook Kinergy ST is what I am using atm on half of my wheels
This sounds like an excuse for the ultra lift
its like 6 grand, some welding
Lmao
15 inches shock travel, like 8" lift
if I really get more into this with this car I will probably do it
Might just have to find a good all-season with decent all-terrain capability?
Unless you're actually taking it offroad all the time and not really dailying it, in which case rally tires all the way
mostly on-road
I know the michelin and continental all-season sports are good daily road tires, idk how they do off-road though.
Nor do i know if they make them in the size you want
Conti makes a 205/50/R15, looks like michelin only goes down to R16
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvOAnAvpNKs/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== @lost nest next upgrade ?
My preferred Quatrac Pro+ only goes down to 205/50R17
My friend is looking for a new car.
Budget is 8-10k usd
She wants a hatchback 4 door that's not too big because her garage is small. She also drives about an hour and half daily for her work commute and has to move teaching stuff.
Any suggestions? I've definitely got a model in mind but I'm interested in hearing other opinions.
hatchback or such id say
unless she needs lot of trunk space too
theres plenty here and theyre great
but idk
chevrolet has some or u go european hatchback
She had an aveo 5 and it's been a total turd
I'm thought is a Honda Fit
Known for being reliable
Roomy. Hatchback
4 door
idk that
idk if yall got european brands so to say over there hatchback wise
chevy spark or smth ?
those be hatchbacks i think
but being america i feel she might want something bigger as if she get hit by a full american car that shit is gnna be half the size
I'm not super knowledgable on "regular cars", but it seems like people like those as every day cars.
look at Mazda's line up or go with Toyota/Honda
if it is the states we do not get budget euro brands unless VW counts and even then they are not worth the cost compared what the Asians offer
Ooo yeah the the Mazda 3 hatch exist
mazda has some good hatch options
Is it me, or are Chinese luxery cars much much cheaper than their EU or US counterparts?
Like I have been following the HiPhi X, which was estimated to be around 200K Euro, but it's half of that.
Well wonder why, quality vs Chinese quality
I drove around a Nio ET7 before, they feel much better than Tesla, and with some stuff even better than BMW
Well yeah Tesla sucks
I mean, the ET7 is an amazing car, and quality wise really good so far.
Items are often priced more based on what the target market can pay than the underlying cost to build the item.
that statement is true, however it completely disregards the cost of production so if the target market can pay less it needs to cost less to produce i.E. the product needs to cut corners at some point
That sounds like a longer way of saying the price is "based on what the target market can pay"
But the problem I have with the western car manufacturers these days is they make the cars very very expensive.
For a good sized car we pay well over 50K these days, it use to be less than, way less.
This is why I feel where the Asian market can succeed.
The cars cost less than their western counterparts.
While the western cars are barely any better.
My problem with them is they make cars too feature-rich and the price goes way up.
The most basic electric vehicles are very luxurious, there's no middle ground anymore.
My problem is that Chinese cars are less than half the price, and are way better than their Western counterparts.
Why do I have to pay 250K for a feature rich 6/7 person car in Europe, and only 100K for an Chinese equivalent.
A VW bus is not 250k 🤔
VW has 1 of the worst infotainment systems I seen on modern cars, the interior is so minimalistic that it feels cheap.
Anything from VW that can reasonably carry 6-7 people goes in the 30k to like 100k NEW range
Not here, the VW Buzz for example starts at 60K, the Transporter around 75K.
And then we have the base model.
Lemme make a reasonable config through their configurator real quick
The base 5 seater VW Buzz here costs me 68K actually
Which means I am still a seat short.
A 2nd hand VW Transporter will cost me well over 35K, which is still absurd
Thats an EV
N6RNCKVI this is the reasonable configuration code for 67k
OMFG DISCORD FINALLY ADDED LINK MARKDOWN
Luckily you don't pay double tax on your vehicles, the base trim here is 60K.
And I don't know how much you pay for fuel, but here Diesel is roughly 2.- per liter, so I rather have a hybrid or EV
Yeah well I chose the Diesel cuz its the 1.9TDI and diesel is like 1,70€ a litre
The motor does not add much tho
Cant do anything about some doubletax tho 🤔
That trim here costs me almost 80K
So still, not cheap.
@remote plume the 2nd tax overhere, for a van, is roughly 12K.
Isnt that just for the commercial sector tho?
Btw still not anywhere close to the 250k you mentioned
I said equivalent, if we say the HiPhi X, a luxery MPV for 4 to 6 people.
It costs here roughly 100K, the next equivalent is the EQS SUV, which is past 220K here.
Model 3, 60K
Nissan Leaf, 40K
Like what does a western car make it better than an Asian car, why are Asian cars cheaper?
Because their market is completely different
But their cars are cheaper for the same if not better quality.
Just the fact, that Western cars are way more expensive, bothers me.
the issue I have with chinese evs is the record of chinese 125cc motorcycles… support and supply networks are few and far between with components sometimes not available for months at a time and no real way to escalate a problem
The Chinese EVs have platforms similar to Tesla's platforms, and with EVs the advantage is that a lot of components are way easier interchangeable
I’ve not seen evidence of that around here (though that is very much a country based thing) and just because parts are interchangeable doesn’t mean you can necessarily get them. The same thing is true of Chinese 125s and still part shortages occur
FYI, my experience with Tesla is their support is awful and I would never buy a car from them because of that
I only have Toyota Mirai, never broke on me.
But parts for this car are literally almost nowhere
got a diahatsu
nothing broke that wasnt due to something like snow and the car sliding in a curb
or just a rubber bushing thats 18year old wear and crack
i’m glad you haven’t had an issue but having had experience of manufacturers with bad parts supply twice resulting in losing transport for about 15 months between them i’m not going to hedge my bets again
I rarely see Asian cars break down other than Toyota mild-hybrids.
I see many western cars breaking down each year, with VW on top and then BMW.
But I wouldn't be surprised if a Tesla Model X motor fits in the HiPhi X
the major UK breakdown providers say the manufacturers of car they have to rescue most often due to non-functioning vehicles are Ford, Vauxhall and Kia. What is hard to gauge is the rate at which this happens. bmw was high but that was for dead tyres (so much for rft tyres getting you home)
my general feeling is we overestimate the reliability of Asian brands and underestimate the reliability of European brands.
The distribution of ownership of those brands would also have an affect
Like “red cars get pulled over more often” because there are simply more red cars
Yeah, that’s what I meant by. It’s hard to gauge the rate of this happening
Oh no, my car is red.....
So last week, the traffic patrols attended to 4 Ford vans, one Honda, a Hyundai and a Mercedes on the local motorway
I’m guessing the Ford vans were work/delivery vehicles
isnt vauxhall just opel
Which, if that’s the case, then frequency of use is also a factor
i believe so
And Opel is just GM
just like the vw up got a skoda and seat version, just all the same just rebranded with slight altercation
which goes back to what I was saying, about rate of incidents.
same as older vw crafter and mercedes
all the same then
same as nissan adn opel vans for instance, but then again the new toyota van ife seen as citroen and opel too
i would imagine so the stats are just by manufacturer and type
i bet, the ford vans are kinda notorious for issues
work van we have one that had injector issues, and my unlce had similar on the bigger version so different engine and such
The Ford transit is like the most common van by insane amounts
yeah
theyre good vans , but just sometimes got issues that diff models have even if diff engine, unless the big vans have the same as a combo
They are, but there's still some differences.
mostly upgrade wise and shit as the engines and bodys basically be the same
also, i’d not call a headlight getting smashed and an upper radiator support get broken by someone reversing into a parked car a reliability issue
thats more reliability issues of other drivers
But some systems like hybrid engines can function differently.
I know on the older Opel and Vauxhaull Ampera that the Opel could work fully manual as you could drain its battery completely without turning on the ICE.
But on the Vauxhaull the computer decided completely for you which of the 2 engines were active
then again it could be, theres cars who get hit and drive off vs others
yeah, tahts mostly just software that one has vs the other do their thing
as i said minor things
What about self driving cars though 😛
fuck em
people cant drive themselves properly, ad those to the self driving they still fuck it up
Perfect for people who can't drive or don't want to drive.
They want 70k for it.
That's a 40k car max. 70k is about msrp on a c8 that's 10 years newer with almost as much hp.
what is the milage?
Like 40k I think.
Even if it was 4 digits that's asking nearly twice what it's worth.
Dealers are barely asking 50 for something like that and that's with the inane insane markups going on these days
IDK I would argue that 40 is pushing it but part of that is IDK wheather to trust the mods that were done
also corvet is not on my buy list
Tbf, mods usually lower the sale value of a car
Those go for 50K max in Europe currently
Common to do the heads on them because they're junk stock
Like you? Junk
Nah I lasted more miles than most of the z06 heads so far.
mine had almost 200k when I bought it for 3200
Mine had 20K when I bought it over a year ago
well this is fun I have a coolant leak that nearly caused my car to over heat (I got lucky) and no Idea where it is thanks to the mess of hoses between the intake manifold and the engine
You actually see fluid leaking, or fluid level is just decreasing without visible leak?