#Tech Lab forum - General Discussions!
1 messages · Page 30 of 1
That explains some of the egos around here
My esteem college who apparently doesn’t know how to clean all the gooch out of their PC informed me that it just stopped working. PSU is fine, re places the RAM mobo has no lights but the unit refuses to turn on fans don’t spin and it doesn’t give the monitor any signal. Basically the only thing that does work is the decorative light on the Mobo
Desktop?
Flipped off the PSU and let it sit for 10 minutes before flipping it back on and trying the power button?
I can have him try it!
But it’s been off power alr for a bit while I had him fiddle with the ram and all
Only got plugged in a few moments ago
But I’ll have him try it
Toggle the flip switch. It’s weird but I’ve had that fix stuff like this before
Understood
And give it ten minutes before trying again
Ping when you do
My next step would be to reset the cmos
I’ve never done that how do I explain it
There’s essentially a round battery on the mobo. I can’t see it in the pic but you remove that. Give it a minute. Then put it back in
Should be pretty easy. Just a couple tabs or clip holding it in
Alright
Pull the power of course
Would CMOS possibly be under the GPU or CPU cooler?
It won’t be under a cooler. It should be exposed
Is that it right beside the GPU
Bet I’ll get a better photo
It says “Battery” right under it 😉
Yep, that’s it
So again never dealt with this does the pin just pull or push?
Looks like it’s only secured with one thing
Yep, just a simple spring
Ight
Put your finger of it and push
I think the mobo is toast
@fleet wasp does this sound familiar to you?
#1048668928186007582 message
Oh no
Let me read but I'm scared now
Ok so... It was working previously, correct?
And if so, was there anything specific about the event(s) going on before failure?
I don't think this is similar to my thing because I was seeing motherboard post lights initially... I believe exclusively for RAM. That stopped with a mobo replacement.
And then when I started to have display issues the next few days/weeks, I was (I think) getting a display mobo light, and it was a fried GPU (from everything I can tell)
So, the display issues and the non-functional fans both sound like symptoms I saw, but I was getting at least some lights during post (until things got really fucked), and I was getting issues in different places at different times.
I might check back through the messages I sent you Slimm, just to confirm, but I'd want to try to pinpoint any potential cause of failure.
No post/error lights make me think it's either power or mobo related, so somewhere at or between the mobo and the PSU.
Okay, yeah. I forgot about the post lights with yours.
So yeah. Swap psus as a test then
If you have an extra, that's where I'd start yeah.
If nothing, then I'd say mobo is the most likely
Almost certain.
Yeah it was fine and then nothing no warning no lights naught
@silk jasper question is it a new PSU?
And if so, are you using the old cables?
And the RGBA ON THE BOARD IS DINE.
app cap lock
And PSU was new with the unit nothing is newer than the other parts
Granted it’s a 2-3 year old pc by now so I’m told
Hasn’t ran hot according to my friend temps were fine no indications prior to failure that it was well failing
If the PC ain't turning on, I would check the PSU 1st, like get another 1 to test everything with.
Well it’s getting power because the Mobo has a RGB light that works just fine. Issue is that’s the only thing working
Even the fans won’t turn
Nor the RGB on said fans will light up
Truth be told Mobo is the only thing showing even the slightest sign of life and I’m not sure where to go from there
Then I would try to pull out all RAM and see if it'll beep or show any q-light.
Alright I’ll have him try it. He’s long asleep now but I’ll update on that.
I assume if the Mobo doesn’t react to having no ram it’s the Mobo?
It can beep or show a q-light that it is missing RAM.
Do you know if his PC has has a CPU with iGPU?
Dumb that down a tad for my stupid brain.
Better question is: What CPU is installed?
We can figure out the iGPU part from that
Although I think the PSU swap will give us more information. No point in getting too far ahead
If you do not have a spare PSU to test, you can jump start the current one to see if its at least functional. Unplug it from the computer, then jump these pins with a paper clip
See if the PSU fan spins up
I don't know and my friend is unaware as well not aa hugely tech savvy person though I can confirm the ram did not fix it I'll have him remove the CPU cooler and see what mode it is all ik is it is an Intel chip
As for the PSU I'll recommend him to find one to test on
@silk jasper question:
When they turn on the PC, the motherboard "glows up" a bit right?
When they press the power button shortly, does it instantly turn off?
If this is the case then it can't initiate POST
Shadowcalen also has a good option above
So as far power button on the case does nothing
Question: is the power button properly connected to the motherboard? It might've pulled off for some reason
It would be one of those pins. They are labelled (above and below) what they function as.
The power button should be connected to the "power button +" and "power button -" pins
If that doesn't work he might be kinda out of luck. Probably nothing too serious but might warrant a warranty replacement or a cheap eBay motherboard of the same socket (and if Intel, CPU xompat)
I've got a problem folks. I just got a micro sd card for my steam deck. Plugged it in and formatted it. Then i plugged it in tp my laptop using an adapter. It asked me to format again. I didn't know why, but as there was nothing on the drive, i figured i might as well do it. After formatting and taking out the microSD, i noticed that my D: drive had disappeared from my file manager. I'm on windows 10.
Steps that I've tried to get the drive to come back so far
-Rescaning drives in Disk Management
-Restoring the system to a previous point
Any tips on how to resolve this would be appreciated.
How old is the SD card?
So the disk does not show up at all in disk management?
Have you tried restarting
you're might to need to use linux
formatting doesn't actually erase any data (as long as you're not writing to the drive), it just erases any partition information.
inferring that your drive was completely allocated as one ntfs partition, you can just recreate the partition table
there's this handy linux tool for writing / modifying / recovering / backing up partition tables
so there's multiple versions, sgdisk is for scripting, gdisk is interactive commandline util and fdisk was the original program i think
Even assuming that something funky happened and they formatted there d drive, it should still show up in disk management.
true, it should
and just to be clear - the D drive and the SD card are two separate storage medias, right?
Yes. My D drive is an SSD.
I think SATA. I guess I could open the laptop up and unplug it and plug it back in. Also, restarting didn't fix anything.
if that doesn't help I would try taking the drive out and connecting it via a USB adapter
Well, I have no clue what happened, but my D: drive is back. I took it apart to unplug the drive, but I couldn't remember where it was so I put it back together. I didn't want to fuck something up by unplugging the wrong thing. Turned the laptop back on after that and saw that the drive was still missing. Turned it off again, frustrated. Then I just turned it on again and the drive was back. Am confusion.
Maybe I should start contacting my IRL friend first. I swear every time I do the problem I'm having magically fixed itself.
wtf is microsoft on that they think changing your windows theme to the fuckin automatic images is OK!?
So I'm not having a good day right now. Other night my PC locked up entirely when playing with the boss. Since then, I've had it freeze up once yesterday during the day and then 3 times last night while on it. It froze itself overnight last night and now when I turn it on, just keeps turning off a after about 20 seconds and turning back on. I don't even think bios is loading
Questions, how old is your PC and what are all the storage mediums your PC has?
I had something similar when an HDD was dying
I did try a driver update last night thinking that was the cause of the issues. Should I try removing things 1 at a time and see how that goes? Everything is unplugged from it other than monitor and m+kb
What kinda driver did you install?
Graphics card update but that was after 3-4 lockups occurred already
Do you know how to get into safe mode?
Honestly not sure how without even getting to bios
Sorry. Keep forgetting to directly reply
Not the BIOS, Windows Safe Mode😅
You have to hold SHIFT on the keyboard, then press Restart in the start menu.
From there you go to Start-up options and then you see a long list and only 2 options, press to restart.
Then it'll start into safe mode and it'll ask you what function to use.
My recommendation is Safe-Mode with Networking, that way you still can surf the web, and if the system still freezes or it's unable to go into safe mode, either your Windows is corrupt or 1 of your storage devices is dying.
What happens if you disconnect the HDD?
If nothing happens try disconnecting the SSD
Haven't tried yet, hoping to try here in a little bit
Tried that and nothing still. I did find this but trying to figure out how the fuck they fit this together... (bought/built from ibuy... never again)
And yeah, it was broken, on purpose it appears, same with another one that is together currently
The upper 1 looks like an ARGB cable, the lower 1 is a damaged fan cable.
If you can't get into the BIOS you can try to reseat the CMOS battery.
try reseating the CPU and once you get into the system, run a system file check like so:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
sfc /scannow
also your motherboard should probably have some debug LEDs (if you tell us the model, we will tell you where to look
lets take this to a thread tho
it seems like you're not the only user of the system - maybe someone has spilled something into the fan gills?
I'm curious why you think it's multiple people, but we can sure.
ohh somehow missed the part about "bought it from iBuy"
if you would make a thread in #1048667464558444692 tho? :)
noice thx
Problem turned out to be the GPU. Not sure exactly what failed on the GPU but that was the issue.
Probably sagged itself to death if it doesn't have proper support😅
That would be my guess. I appreciate the help though!
You guys were great as always
Anytime
turns out running the new CUDIMMS on intels new chips kickes their performance WAY up
do still wish they were a bit more efficient i'd really like to see some tests at very low powers
like 65w for the 285k to see if it shares Lunar lakes insane low power efficiency
also 9800x3D potentially releasing on 6th of november thats gonna be real interesting
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Oh poor intel lmao
Loosing by over 50 percent in 2077 if amd are to be believed
Netgear.. why the fuck do I need to answer security questions to do a password reset?
I don't want to do a full device reset 😦
I'm so confused and stubborn. This is an m.2 wifi card. Correct? It came from an m.2 slot on my old board but it does not fit into the m.2 on my new board
are you trying to put it in to one of the ssd ports?
the keying is different for those. yours is an A+E key, which are basically exclusively wireless (they can do a few other related things), whereas the ones for drives are typically B or M key.
the keying is the notches on the connector area, and they stop you from connecting incompatible devices
There are adapters, but but you are likely better off getting a new module
cries i figured as much. This mobo replacement has been hell
About to do first power on
Netgear, a company I haven't trusted in a while.
turns out I didnt need to get in to it. the ONT was being silly and needed restarting for the internet change over to work it seems
Well, it powers on and stays on but nothing is showing on my monitor... whether plugged into the mobo or the graphics card
Maybe I need to try loading without the GPU first to get into bios and update it
System specs?
That was 1 of the things I stepped away from Netgear
If you can instantly turn it off with a short power button press it means it didn't get to POST
it was already here when I moved in. wouldnt have been my first choice 😆
If you can, replace that junk😅
how long did you give it? first POST on am4 can take a while as it does RAM training. and it doesnt show anything on the screen while it does so
RAM Training is an AM5 thing, not AM4
am5 does it every post, am4 does it when your memory configuration has changed
it is definitely an am4 thing
Nope, gotta hold the power button
And I'd say at least 5 mins I let it run
I do have leds on my mobo for troubleshooting now so I got that going for me lol
yup. just above the 24 pin power connector
As far as I know, I got all the connections correct as well as plugged in well enough
Dram
pull them out, put them back in. make sure the latches are properly closed
something I like to do when pulling both sticks out is to swap them around. not sure it has any effect, but eh
Is it worth trying just 1 to start?
sure
What slots you use also can matter
I never ever seen it on AM4, and I have a few where I went from 16GB to 32GB to 48GB, never was the boot longer than usual.
I have definitely had it with my am4
it is typically quick (5-20 seconds), but is not uncommon for it to be minutes
you never having it doesnt surprise me in at all
Messed with it a bunch, powering on now, definitely wasn't seated fully
ram can be a bit... finicky if you arent used to it
really easy to get it to look seated, but its very slightly off
It was a lot rougher to fit in than my last mobo so I wasn't fighting the resistance enough
But the clamps got their snap.
There we go, now I'm seeing booting. Love to see that mobo splash screen
Once I see my desktop as normal, I can go to bed happier
nice!
Not happy since I need to figure out where my cpu coolers kit went so I can mount that instead of what came with the cpu. Plus now I gotta figure out my networking now that I was a dumb ass and didn't get the mobo with wifi support
Which manufacturer?
Hardwired is always best, but add in cards are pretty cheap
Ah yes, full screen low quality boot screen😅
Pc is still open and guts out but that's a morning problem since I've been fighting with this for... 4 hours
I was hoping to wait till black Friday to grab another router and plop that next to my desktop
Luckily WiFi adapters can be bought pretty cheap
Better than the shitty edit iBuypower did with their own logo and gradient background with a black box in the middle for the loading circle
I love low quality boot screens🤣
Like I do everything on a 4K display when setting up a PC, and it looks hideous
It feels to me "Look how cheap we are, we didn't even invest time into our boot screens, this is the quality you can expect from us"
Windows why do you only show me 15gb of ram in my task manager....
If you have an iGPU, it'll use some of it as VRAM
You do realize why the screen are low quality, yes? It has to live with on the bios
A nice 4k image is not small
I have 2x16s though
That doesn't sound good
Just went into bios... only sees one...
Try the old switcheroo with the RAM
Nobody forces a company to have a low storage BIOS, and the user interface usually looks 100 times better, and you only see that once in a few blue moons.
Apples and oranges. The bios image is raster, the ui is vector
It looks like the left stick isn't seated completely
Also enjoy the fact that the mobo power has to go over the ram cause there isn't a space for it to go through the case closer nor is there enough length left to move it
I did just undo the lefts snap before the picture
Then I don't know, I would do a switcheroo or move all sticks 1 slot to the left, also make sure the CPU cooler isn't tightened too much
Does the bios tell you which slots are populated?
those ones you just tighten the screws until they stop
After reseating ram led is stuck on cpu.....
That's unlikely to be accurate given the context. Reseat again
There we goooo
All sticks accounted for?
Yeah
Also drives too, that's almost more important
Trying to figure out where to correct the time but that could be fixed in windows if I had to guess as well
Thanks for the help tonight all! I can finally game again
As we say in the Netherlands, Gamese
So, my computer keeps hard crashing (power off) when doing certain things in certain games, and I am growing a bit tired of it. Ideas?
This has been happening for years, and has survived a full system reinstall
Have you checked your temps
Temps are fine, were about 75 when it crashed
Bit too low for it to shutdown, but not unheard of.
For years is a bit concerning, so I would ask, does your system get enough power?
That is what I am thinking, I only have a 650 watt unit and I am running a 6900xt
But its very rare that its an issue
That would probably do it xD
how did you install your drivers?
I recently had a client that experiences bluescreens when using a particular bluetooth headset as an audio device. things are just messed up like that some times.
Also: yes the power supply is likely to be a culprit.
guys any idea why my pc does this?
time has drifter by 2 minutes since then...
I HAD set it to automatically sync...
You know lowest recommended by AMD themselves is 750w😅
Even then depending on how much you have connected you have just enough or just not enough, and if 1 thing power spikes then poof, PC shutdown.
Except what Shadow's PC probably does is just cutting the power.
I seen this before with iBuyPower PCs that have a weak PSU.
well no - PSUs cutting the power when overwhelmed is good.
The other option is damage to the components until catastrophic failure
It still can damage components though 😅
Components aren't meant to "relive" cutting power completely like that over and over again.
But yeah, it's the safest option out of the 2.
not sure how it can damage anything since going from power to no power does not create any spikes or whatever but sure
power-no power can causes spikes. it causes chokes/inductors and transformers to spike their output
I actually blew a fuse turning off a bathroom extractor fan while it was still spininng up 😆
ohhh wait i totally forgot about inductors and spools... wtf was I doing during electrical engineering course haha
aight now I get it
anybody know about windows not syncing time tho?
if the time is too far out sometimes windows doesnt want to correct it. you may need to manually set the time close and then run the sync
well, the manual sync always works
i.E. re-enabling / clicking the button
but automatic seems to keep failing
like it should sync every hour or whatever, it last sync over a month ago
Are you using a VPN, or does your modem block certain stuff, or have you tried to change the DNS?
On my AyaNeo it only started to sync the time after I put my DNS on 1.1.1.2
nope nope nope - all pretty much default except I'm using 1.1.1.1
also network wide 1.1.1.1
Have you tried a different server for the time?
Well thats was a first. Running the newest bios for my 13700k on Intel's performance settings (with limits in place) I was running a texture lod generator called Dyndolod for Skyrim and it just about thermal throttled my cpu. Package temp was 97c. And thats with a cpu contact frame, kryonaut thermal paste and a water block with a 360 rad.
5 P cores hit 96-97c
What liquid cooler do you have?
Alphacool's Esisbear Auroa 360m
Also, wtf is that new ping from Discord, yuck.
Halloween shinanigans
That's a pretty good AiO, but it's just known Intels run hot
Oh, I know its a good cooler, its why I spent the money on it. I was just surprised that using Dyndolod briefly throttled my cpu even though its running Intel stock profile with the latest bios. I watched my cpu Vcore hit 1.474v repeatedly.
Dyndolod can use all your cores so far I am aware of it😅
Haven't used it in many many years though, but from I know it can even push my brother's 7900X3D to its max.
nop have not yet, was just asking if anybody knew this peculiarity
if you've got direct die and it still overheats it sounds like you don't have good contact.
did you do direct die before?
I think derBauer has some charts what temperature drops to expect
I do, happens rarely, not that common, I personally still don't know why it happens, but is seems on some systems the date & time sync server is "unreachable".
Not direct die, but using a contact frame instead of the stock ilm.
ohh huh? so like the clamp-thingy that holds the CPU into the socket?
replacement that bolts directly to the backplate?
aight thanks will try the above
Yup. As Intel's ILM was causing the cpu to warp and also causing the coolers to not have good contact. This is what I have:
hmm.. would still expect way better performance out of a water cooling loop, at least as long it's not saturated...
did you try synthetic loads like prime95 or cinebench after setting up?
maybe some OCCT linpack ?
System doesn't stay at 96-97c it just spiked there for a second. I just have HWInfo and a sensor panel so I monitor real time. The cpu also didn't throttle. P cores were still at 5.3 and E cores at 4.2. Cinebench it doesn't throttle either, hits low 90s momentarily.
Moreso was just surprised a LOD generating exe hammered my cpu. Was watching the cpu load hit 100% and 253w.
How hot this thing runs, even with a really good cooler makes me think I may retire this cpu earlier than I planned. Doubt i'll keep it as long as my 8700k (7 years).
Still, the 13700K can pull 250w.
While liquid has a large thermal mass, it's not that fast that it can instantly cool a spike to 250w.
Anyone know how to resolve a NetBT 4311 error? It happens to my laptop a lot, it seems to happen if I don't interact with it for more than ~20 minutes
Have you installed/updated your network driver?
From what I can gather, it has to do with the network drivers
My network driver is up to date, should I remove it and manually install it? I don't know if it would be the culprit but my laptop has a MediaTek MT7921
Does it have an ethernet port?
Maybe you can try to take out the MediaTek junk and see if it still does it on ethernet
It doesn't have a ethernet port sadly, I'll try disabling the network driver and seeing if it causes the crash the error I keep on getting says "Initialization failed because the driver device could not be created. Use the string "025041000001" to identify the interface for which initialization failed. It represents the MAC address of the failed interface or the Globally Unique Interface Identifier (GUID) if NetBT was unable to map from GUID to MAC address. If neither the MAC address nor the GUID were available, the string represents a cluster device name. "
Do you have another WiFi card?
Like 1 from an older machine.
Maybe the WiFi card is dying
I never really had this issue, I usually replace any MediaTek WiFi
I have another laptop that I don't use much anymore I might be able to cannibalize, although I don't know how long I will keep using this laptop as I am looking at getting a new laptop or macbook to use
For the time being you can try to use its WiFi card😅
You could also try reseating the ram to see if that clears it up
The ram is soldered
It should be completely up in to date, Ill check it all when I get out of class and manually install them if I have to
ahhhh
Just had another critical NetBT 4311 error, anyone know where I could find the drivers for a MT7921? I'm going to try and use new drivers until I have a chance to swtich to the other wifi card
Is it a laptop/pre built?
Manufacturers page
I was able to find them, hopefully these will work better
just disconnected the fan from my stereo. bearing was fucked, and its a bit awkward to get to. hopefully its not going to be an issues nope wants the fan. auto shuts down after a bit with an error code that after some googlings points to fan. damnit. I wonder if jumpering the pins with a resistor would work 🤔
Probably, but you don't have a fan you can just cram in there?
.. maybe
I need to see what the voltage requirements are first. there is space to cram a random fan inside the giant void...
this isnt a new issue, i just had the unit in storage for a loooong time, and pulled it out when i moved
I'm more talking from the practical perspective of putting a load on the circuit
i do at some point want to swap out the prioprietary speaker connectors for terminals though, and maybe the ipod dock for line input
thats what I figured
A fan with improper voltage would probably be easier to get then a resistor designed to mimic that much load
its likely not measuring load, just checking it exists
If they went through the effort of checking it exists, it's not crazy to think that it would check ballpark that it is right
12v, 0.06A, 40mm, 10mm thick
about 10 bucks from local suppliers it seems
its also possible that dropping some ipa in to the bearing has fixed this one for now.
is it a two-wire fan or 3/4?
because the latter two short the one pin to ground rapidly as a tachometer signal
2 wire. as stupid as they get
the previous fan surely has a label (or imprint) listing the model or specifications, care to share?
in that case it probably (at least stupidly) measures current flow or voltage drop
actually it probably could also be sensing for voltage fluctuations from fan motor
I doubt its even really measuring anything. put a transistor on a shunt and see if it its logic high
I dont have the fan handy right now, but i might still have a page open 🤔
rdl4010s
a 33 Ohm resistor capable of dissipating 0.12 Watt would emulate that fan
a simple LED like these would also tho
that they would
guys this is crazy why didn't we talk about this?
also that the 5800X3D is still basically third place
hmm still value in AM4
not really since the 5800X3D is discontinued and nowhere to be found
There will be value again once people sell theirs for upgrades but I guess it will be another generation until then
still good, but 5800X3D should be the only valid option for a legacy platform
any ideas why a laptop battery might keep on not charging?
Already restarted device 2 times, also not charging while powered off.
Surface Book First gen, Keyboard base currently does not include a battery
the tablet integrated battery has been replaced semi-recently and not been under much load
the 9800x3D is actually amazing
anihilates intels offerings and all of AMDs own offerings the X3D chips are like the 1080tis of CPUs
have you seen how intels new chips behave when you give them super fast memory its weird if you give them real fast memory they actually rather significantly beat out their AMD counterparts all be it still at a slightly lower efficiency
like even in productivity benchmarks where Memory speed usually almost doesnt matter atall
like in certain games its actually beating the 7800X3D not all games by any means but the difference is staggering
another thing that seems to often yeild insane boosts for the new intel chips is cache overclocking so maybe if intel next gen just focus on allowing the highest speed memory possible and building a hugely faster cache maybe the performance might start out being actually pretty decent
Like actually WHAT
and again here this time it trails the 7800x3D a bit but it goes from being slower tha the 9900X to being faster than the 9950X thats a huge difference for just having faster ram and cache
i wonder if EVEN faster memory can make even more diffference theres some 12000 mhz CU Dimms up and comming i would be very excited to see what difference thoes make and also would love to see them on AMDs chips to see what kind of impact a 12000mhz dimm would make to their chips
Just wait till you see the price of the RAM
yea its expensive
because its basically Quad channel ram
you know what never mind
its not even that expensive
Crucial sell a 32gb cit of 6400 for 150 and because its the heatspreadless raw crucial dims the chances are if you can get a heat spreader on thoes you can probs OC them to 8000 mhz
doesnt make a difference in all games tho not that huge of a one anyway
I am not big on overclocking without it saying it can reach the speeds
6400 is official speed of ALL CU dimms
like how 4800 is the official speed of ALL DDR5 UDIMMs
Except I can't find any of them
crucial make some ATM
and pretty much only Crucial have them released which makes sense because Crucial is Micron and Micron allways release first
I mean, I just scoured 5 webshops here and none have them, they do have Trident Z 48GB 9600MT/s Dimms though
buy direct from crucial
32GB isnt a lot, I wish they had them in sets of 128GB
And 200.- for just 32GB is a lot
you run AMD anyway so
AMD cant use them
its 150 for 32GB
and that in £ the pound is only worth like 1.1 euro usually
And import costs may also get on top
Also I am running Threadripper, I want a gaming rig for just few of my games.
I last time tripped a breaker at my home, so family wasn't too happy 😅
Tripped a breaker in using too much power.
I was rendering and gaming at the same time
Usually it goes alright but this time is was a huge nope
how did you trip a breaker
you're in europe
you arent pulling 4kw from a wall outlet
4KW shared between 3 PCs, 2 are my dad and brother.
Brother has an OCd 4090, I have a shunt modded 7900XTX 😅
and you arent running that off a single plug socket
are are room cicuits where you live only like 7A or something
Same group, same switch
thats just bad wiering
each room in our house has its own fuse in the UK we use fuses not breakers for what ever reason
Pretty common in the Netherlands, especially in homes from pre-2000
I am fine when there's sun, my panels do roughly 200w each, and I have 2, but today there's only fog, couldn't see further than 100m😅
been trying to find some Electrostatic headphones they are the last Main audio type i need to complete my collection
Good luck on those, they're pretty rare.
Planar Magnetic is more common
electrostatics arent rare
just most of them are absurd
and i already have some planar magnetics
I also have Planar Magnetics.
It is when you live in a country where 90% of all amazing headphones state "Can't deliver to your current address".
one other problem with electrostatic headphones
is the AMP needed for them
you need a special amp
I heard about that, I guess you need to sell your life to the devil to purchase 1?
not really
you COULD
COOOUUULLD
get a pair of Old stacks and an energiser for like 800
which in audiophile land isnt alot
It isn't a lot if you say it quickly😅
800.- is still a damn nice CPU though
Or half a PC
Or my quarterly rent
Or my gas tank in a month
I still think that's pricey😅
That's very true, my brother wanted to buy 2500.- costing Senheiser headphones, and those just have dynamic drivers.
like
the cheapest planar magnetic you can get thats actually good
wierldy
Sonys Pulse Elites
silly looking gaming headphones but their just little audeze headphones
I didn't know the silly headphones were planar magnetic, I have Sundaras, got them for Christmas 😅
yea theres 2 theres a normal dynamic driver ones then theres like the elite ones which are actual Audeze planar magnetics
Oh, then I'll get them for my handheld, I was looking for some good headphones that wouldn't break the bank😅
one thing planar magnetics dont do well is creating pressure
Sony own circular Dynamic drivers Sony Own Audeze all im saying is they could do a planar magnetic dynamic hybrid headphone with a dynamic driver that goes ARROUND the planar magnetic driver
Enter a new era in gaming audio with the PULSE Elite™ wireless headset.
I don't need pressure, I need good and stable sound, not like over the top base or overlapping sounds
1 thing I always noticed with dynamic drivers is what sounds like an echo.
Like they don't fade fast enough.
And I read some very negative reviews about the Pulse Elite.
Mainly with the wireless connection and mic.
Dbrand jokes like always
https://youtube.com/shorts/RXRvkF0mHZ4
The Play Station 5 Slim has a problem! It wobbles more than a one legged pony on a merry-go-round. But dbrand is here to fix it! Grab your own teardown skins at www.dbrand.com/Teardown
wth just came home to this
why tf would the wear level be able to go down?
also: what is different between yesterday and today, where yesterday it was at 0% the whole time and today it's just full again
Depends on how the device is set up.
All looks normal to me.
comparison to yesterday, whole day after multiple restarts / staying off
That's weird🤔
I’ve had a couple of the laptops I’ve replaced the battery on take a week to recalibrate to the new one
it's been about a year since the replacement - not much off-the-wall usage tho
Okay that’s weird
Can you run a report in the battery to see what it did historically?
don't think so
sadly my constantly running hwmonitor doesnt support batteries and hwinfo wasnt running
powercfg /batteryreport?
uhhh
Yep, that might be a problem
The capacity history should show a change in capacities reflecting when you swapped the batteries
I guess your laptop and battery aren’t on talking terms anymore 
this is the only suspicious history part
I think this is more suspicious. Look how the max capacity dips before it stops being recorded
well, it's definitely not an original part...
Loose connection?
don't think so...?
lemme restart the system on battery and see what it says then
also: didn't know windows keeps a 3+ year log of battery activity, will come in handy in the future!
It’s a history going back since Windows was installled
A complete reinstall wipes it
this is great, why isn't this file just auto-generated?
or displayed somewhere in battery settings
¯_(ツ)_/¯
I’m just glad I have the manual option
None of my users have a need to monitor their battery life day to day. Most of them leave their laptops docked almost indefinitely
think the report is not really on talking terms with windows
Yeah, that is interesting to me. W10?
imma wait for it to get to 50%, then plug in again and rerun command
surface book one was among the first CPUs to be discontinued
hmm seems to work but on a 65W USB-C charger it only pulls 5W into the bat while the package power is like 5W (on battery the total draw is like 20W in idle)
new keyboard battery is in - lookin good so far.
will at least get me through the tablet battery being kinda garbage
How is Newegg to order from now? I'm thinking about getting some of their combo stuff to help a friend build a computer
I ordered some stuff for work earlier this year and didn’t have any problems
Needed some new ear buds for traveling on the train love my linkbuds but being open made them suck for traveling
The new Nothing Ear (2024) (stupid name could have called them nothing ear 3) were on sale on Amazon for over £50 off been trying them and honestly I'm really impressed with how full they sound they are by default a bit heavy on bass not to the detriment of everything else but definitely heavy on bass. Luckily there's a good lot of eq options so you can make them less so the noise canceling is great too,
As for comfort haven't been able to wear them for long but they remind me of how the linkbuds feel they are very light and they don't stick into your ear or rely on your ear canal to support their weight like the Sony xm3 and xm4s buds both of which really irritated my ears
See MSI GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti SUPER 16G GAMING SLIM STALKER 2 EDITION Graphics Card: https://msi.gm/RTXStalkerEdition
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I hope the 50 cards also have a 45° connector
Wanting to build a jbod to replace the role the epyc used to do could be pretty cool to build a lil head server than can manage a bunch of jbods kinda wanna do a blade based solution
Any idea to when the Lancool 217 will launch? I currently have a antec flux pro on backorder but would rather get a 217. Any downsides to me running without a case until one of them arrives?
Only downside of running without a case is the dust collection and depending on your room worse temps
Quick thing. I am looking to use a contact frame and was just curious. Do I need to fully push the socket clamp in or can J simply align the CPU and just place the contact frame on?
A contact frame replaces the regular CPU mounting clamp+lever
Which means you have to REMOVE the original socket clamp mechanism
And the heat spreader
Ah ok, thought your are talking about the direct die… what are the benefits in using that with the heat spreader?
The normal socket mount bends the CPU slightly which reduces the surface area of direct contact
The mounting frames don't bend the CPU so you get better contact
Same with amd though to a lesser extent because AMDs chips aren't as long
Though socket pressure is far from AMDs biggest threat to their thermals
For and it's how stupid thick their ihs is
Somehow I’m tempted by the direct die from thermal grizzly
If you wanna throw your cpu in an oven
@jade scaffold I recently upgraded a PC to 9800X3D and Windows 11.
But the BIOS shows 4800MHz, but Windows 11 shows 3600MT/s, the RAM is 128GB (4 x 32GB or 2 x 64GB kits).
Once XMP is turned on the system indefinitely hangs on RAM LED.
The motherboard in question is the Asus ProArt X670-e.
Do you have any idea what could be wrong, because the system runs fine without XMP
I am currently not in the state to problem solve as I am still in shock from a motorbike accident this morning.
There's your issue
X670e
Lmao
Has a dual chipsets will have issues hitting rated ram speeds
Additionally amd 9000 or 7000 does not support xmp
Only expo
Expo, XMP, I usually call them the same😅
But it is a 9800X3D, which should be a single chiplet
The question is, why Windows shows 3600MT/s
When the BIOS shows 4800MHz
But isn't the lowest DDR5 reaches 4800MT/s
The x670e type mobos have dual chipsets due to the syncing happening with them they consistently struggle with overclocking.
2400mhz technically
But why does Windows show 3600MT/s when the BIOS shows 4800MHz, isn't that the complete opposite?
Also Ryzen 9000 again no xmp support and have issues with xmp
Ram isn't really initialised untill you are out of bios
So if it's fine without xmp
It is Corsair Vengeance 5600MT/s 64 GB sticks 2 kits.
Xmp is the cause here
So the only way to get 5600MT/s is to manually OC?
Because XMP/EXPO doesn't work
Expo works xmp doesn't
They are different make sure the kit supports expo specifically
No worries
Oh ik it had to be removed just wanted to make sure the CPU would rest in its socket without being clamped down prior is all.
Yea the CPU just sits in the socket itself and the frame holds it there
Yeah, they told me, they're gonna buy new RAM.
And they're gonna give the old RAM to me.
I wanna try the 285K on W10, see if it runs better on W10 than on W11
Is there anyone online to help verify if I have my cpus and mounting brackets on correctly? I’m building a pc for myself and a friend and want to verify before I break it
Looks good to me
It was good, what temps should I be expecting on a 7600x during stress testing on occt?
Cooler?
Its a thermaltake 240mm aio, I was getting about 87c at 5.1ghz
This 1 is incorrect
I got it all working, I had the phantom spirit brackets upside down, both cpus were in oriented correctly
@jade scaffold you may know the answer to my question, I am looking for an ITX board, but not just any, it needs to support PCIe Bifurcation, do you know which board would be the best choice, I can't find any information about it so I am curious if you know.
I want to make a tiny ass workstation.
tbh im not sure
very few consumer boards support it
perhaps the Epyc 4004 AM5 boards get a 16 core 4004 Epyc and a proper server board for it and i feel one of thoes would have it
maybe even some MCIO x8 connectors on it too
I know Asus X670 ATX boards support it, but those boards are too long for what I want to do 😅
So wierd tech issue. For the last 3 mornings I woke up to my secondary monitor refusing to turn on. The fix is to unplug the power brick from the wall for like 10 minutes before plugging it back in. Clearly the power brick is on the fritz, but does anyone have any ideas what would cause that very specific behavior?
How old is the monitor
Could just be the caps in the power brick degrading
Planning on doing my own blade design and connecting made to hold and adapt standard itx systems into a blade format
6ish years old now? Specially what I am curious about is why it always dies overnight.
Could have just been fine then it's only just passed the threshold of being fucked
It's not even the longest period of inactivity. Typically it's only unused for 9 hours at night. I leave it unattended for 10ish while I am at work
It's happened 3 times
Many monitors aren't electrically grounded, so if there's an electricity leakage they can destroy themselves.
The monitor has other issues, it has a row of dead pixels and sometimes the pc does not detect it after a restart.
But this is an issue specifically with the power brick
Have you tried another brick then?
Have one ordered
There is a light on the brick that shows when it's getting power, and the light goes off
Before you got that 1, I see the monitor and brick as a single package.
But still same thing applies, electricity leakage, without being gounded, can damage if no destroy the monitor or brick.
Hence why I know it is the brick in this case
Sometimes they also can turn off if the monitor has problems with the brick, I see this happening on laptops, where the charging port on the laptop is broken, adapter works fine and the brick turns off.
So it turning off also can be the protection circuit cutting power.
Could be, but you should not need to leave it unplugged for an extended piriod of time for the opp to reset
Also I am in Japan, basically nothing is grounded
Maybe it's resetting the monitor and not the brick😅
Nope, unplugging the brick from the monitor will not fix the issue
Also the led shows it's the brick
I hope it's the brick though, but 6 years, it's a long time for a modern monitor
@jade scaffold I think I found my motherboard, the Asus Strix Z890-I, it has PCIe Bifurcation.
And it's also ITX
Although I have to wait for Asus to update their Bifurcation sheet, as it was last updated in March, but the Z790 counterpart does support Bifurication, would be weird to remove it from a newer board.
Hey, folks, I'm having this error message pop up randomly on my laptop and I can't figure out why. I'm on windows 11. Can anyone help me?
I looked it up and it said I could fix it by renaming a file, but I searched for that file and it didn't show up.
Looks like from 1 of your programs,
The wise mage known as Google says it's a graphics driver issue. I'm installing the latest Radeon drivers now. I installed an old SSD I had in my previous PC in my laptop and it's now using that as the boot drive, so the display drivers were probably out of date. Will keep you guys posted, though.
As long as this is not something that is happening consistently, its probably something you can ignore.
Though updating your drivers is never a bad idea
Well rarely a bad idea
Never use a Windows from a Desktop on a Laptop, they have completely different drivers and you need a clean Windows.
Eh, get everything updated and it’s fine
I updated from the windows 10 install that was on the desktop to windows 11 after I installed the SSD. I forgot that it was my boot drive when I was installing it and deleted the old boot drive I had originally in the laptop cause i couldn't figure out how to change the boot order in bios. Both the drives showed Windows Boot Manager or something like that and I couldn't tell which was which.
It's not, the Chipset drivers can fuck things up
If they’re super out of date, maybe. Modern windows is more likely to panic and go into safe mode than fully load the drivers and break something. At which point you can update and install the proper ones.
It's still not smart though
While it’s not a great choice there are definitely worse ones
I updated the drivers and things seem to be ok now (knock on wood.)
I always think "oh, I can install this thing myself! I don't need to bother my friends with it!" And then end up fucking stuff up.
As long as you learn from it it’s all good
I sure hope I do. I've made mistakes like this in the past, but I always forget about them or think that I'm better now. Anyway, thanks for y'alls help. I really appreciate it. Now I can get back to STALKER.
Imagine being excited for bloodsucker hugs
Oh, I'm NOT. Damn things scare the shit outta me.
you can use procexp64 and use the find process by window feature to figure out where it comes from
Bought a new steering wheel for racing games and the such moza r3 DD wheel
hmm really wanting a proper wheel + pedals (the logitech was fine-ish until the pedals all went haywire)...
Need to save a little tho. already spent way too much at the end of this year
anybody know their way around IPv6 here?
trying to set up a satisfactory server in uni accomodations (the network is student-run and we got a DNS entry for a v6 address from them, alongside port forwardings)
like I know how to get it to work on v4, forward ports from the public addresses of the router to a specific machine on the network but is there something different with v6?
I need a new audio interface, anyone know a good 1 that isnt the GoXLR
I look for 1 with at least 5 channels
just for the others - whats your budget and where does it hurt?
also: do you want sliders or do you just want an ADC / DAC?
I don't get this question but max 1K😅
yea what turned me away from logitech was a couple of things
A the alleged feel of the wheel
B the experience with my rather IMO expensive logitech flight stick and thottle
C the Logitech wheel is loud AF
D absolutly no modularity atall in any way shape or form
E Watching videos of people playing with it there appears to be visible latency from turning the wheel to that translating into game, I have what most would consider VERY fast reaction times so that might not be a particular issue most people can even perceive
Don't get me wrong, but so far Logitech G has gone downhill.
Their mice was great, but I always felt some latency, like the Corsair Dark Core Wireless felt much more responsive.
Their flight sticks are expensive and mediocre quality.
Their wheels, well, not 1 Logitech wheel survived 2 years in my hands.
That was a while back though
the direct drive is pretty new from them
Doesn't really matter, the fact is Logitech is a massive company with a big name and tons of money for R&D.
They just don't put any money into it.
It’s an entry level wheel. For what it is I think it’s pretty solid
any brand recomendations for SSD both M.2 and hard drives
Crucial, they're also 1 of the leading brands of SSDs
thanks
Kingston also does it pretty well, they're also 1 of the leading brands.
thank you
Never buy based on brands, both Kingston and crucial have swapped components of their ssds out for lower end ones after they were reviewed. Its really down to the individual model
But they're still more trustworthy than cheap Chinese SSDs
If I am remembering right kingston literally halved the preformance of one of thier ssds
I would not call that trustworthy
Yes and Samsung 980 Pro use to commit Harakiri.
Every manufacturer does something stupid
PC PSU, SeaSonic still the gold standard?
was really hoping they would be on sale today but they are not and over the last 2 months there price has jumped up quite a bit 😦
Seasonic and SuperFlower pretty much
I see Corsair as a close second
superflower?
oh I think I remember you mentioning that before, they more server PSU then desktop?
also likely one of the pre-badge manufacturers for some consumer lines
I kinda went off Corsair because of my last PSU from them. it worked fine but it was so damn noisy!
many psus are actually made by someone else. some brands even source from multiple places
worst PWM fan flutter I have ever delt with
corsair stuff is usually good, though some of their lines or parts of lines are duds
I have the SuperFlower Leadex 2000😅
Runs pretty well and quiet
I was really hoping to get some resonable deals for blackfriday on these parts I need but... yeah nothing
nothing I needed is on sale at all
Tell me about it🥲
I need a new MB and PSU and would like an m.2 ssd
worse, all the MBs I can find seem like they will require a bios update to even work with my CPU and that is BS
I need a resonably priced MB for a ryzen 5600x
I hate flashing bios and I really dont want to have to install my old 2600 in the board first to do a bios update and most of the boards in my price range dont even have flashback
like this thing https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-B550-PLUS-Motherboard-DisPlayPort-Addressable/dp/B089CT5GDM
Powered by 3rd Gen AMD Ryzen processors, the ASUS Prime B550-PLUS delivers next-generation speeds with PCIe 4. 0 and 1Gb LAN. Boasting a robust power design, comprehensive cooling solutions and intelligent tuning options, the ASUS Prime B550-PLUS provides mainstream users and DIY PC builders with...
litterally says 5000 series in its name but apperently according to the reviews it will need a bios update and does not have flashback
any of the 500 chipsets should support 5000 cpus iirc
the chipsets do, dosnt mean the bios out of the box do
out of the box that is
that is what I would have thought. I mean 450s would for sure need an update, that is what I have right now
I dont get it
5600x has been supported "validated" since bios 1004
ASUS Prime series is expertly engineered to unleash the full potential of AMD and Intel processors. Boasting a robust power design, comprehensive cooling solutions and intelligent tuning options, Prime series motherboards provide daily users and DIY PC builders a range of performance tuning options via intuitive software and firmware features.
but what actually comes on the board?
depends on when it was manufactured
exactly
I hate rolling dice
no idea if that is even a good board
of course the one manufactuer with good sales on its boards is MSI
it doesnt support any 2000 cpus from what I can see
but I wont be going back to them ever again
oldest are zen2/3000 cpus
lol, then I would REALLY be rolling the dice because if its an older board that isnt updated I wont be able to flash the bios then
for context, the current bios is 3611 and 1004 was from.. 2020
heck, 1004 is only the fifth bios available for it. out of 25
well hopefully then there are not many of those boards kicking around but you never know on scAmazon
you guys told me Asus or AsRock right?
I know for sure I am avoiding MSI, what about gigabyte?
this seems to be my only resonable PSU option. I dont know what the difference bettween the GX and GS is other then being semimodular and having a worse warenty https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-850FM-Semi-Modular-Warranty-Application/dp/B08YJBYPCF
The newly upgraded FOCUS GM power supplies are the successor to the FOCUS Series. FOCUS series' affordability, reliability and efficiency made it instantly became the top seller in the power supply market after its launch in 2017. Besides the upgrade in performance and compatibility, the PSU hous...
Almost all B550 and X570 don't need a BIOS update in order to function with this CPU.
this ok? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B25NXWC7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Valuable Gen4 performance is here. Introducing the Crucial P3 Plus Gen4 NVMe SSD, delivering impressive speed with sequential reads/writes up to 5000/4200MB/s. Including dynamic write acceleration and adaptive thermal protection to keep your data safe while enhancing system reliability, the P3 Pl...
That's a very popular and good SSD
I know its not the fastest but honestly I dont give af about drive speed
what matters most to me is reliability
The difference in loading times with majority of games is like a few milliseconds to like 3 seconds difference, only if you have a very fast system you'll notice the difference.
I am still on sata drives and dont have a problem with loading times
i hate it how modern games seemingly don't expect any kind of latency when accessing files.
I have most of my games installed on an HDD.
HOWEVER I have this HDD cached on a 980 Pro for 64GB.
When playing most games, I frequently get 0.5s hangs when the game seems to be loading something
I hate it
like load it asynchronously.
have a "texture missing" texture applied in the meantime or whatever.
use LODs where the lowest level is always kept in memory
IDC, just do it righht!!
If I would do that I would make the cache like 256GB, that way if needed it could cache the entire game
well most of the game files is actually never accessed (depending on your settings / style of play).
64Gigs is more than enough to cache my 3 most recent games files.
Keep in mind, the caching is done on a 16kb block level
for example - War Thunder is 83GB big (alongside the High-Res texture packs) and it's read like 12GB in the last 2 hours
Unless you play games like SC, where most files are inside large files😅
But I can understand
nah, it's not a file-based caching, it's block based
so the file size don't matter
dont think you understand how much data all the lods for a game is
Most people don't understand many of the things they try and talk about
This is what I am thinking about, and the more it has to swap, the more stutters and slowdown you will have
uhh, well, thats a headline to start with.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pomC1CfpC0
USE CODE "PUCKGAMERSNEXUS" for 10% off ANYTHING on the GN store while it lasts: https://store.gamersnexus.net/ our ability to permanently ban advertisers and stand on principle for a better industry is funded by our audience's support. We need your continued support to make these time-intensive, resource-intensive investigative videos featuring ...
I'm not even a quarter way through the video and all I got is a "holy crap this is bad".
So yeah, seriously, don't buy a damn thing from NZXT.
Picked up my first used server to play around with. After nearly bricking my NAS I decided it was better to leave that alone, lol.
Looks like a solid little server.
Now just to figure out drives and how many. Currently only have 1 spare from my now dead Synology NAS. A 12TB Seagate Ironwolf. I'd rather not buy more of those as its not cheap. Looking at refurbished drives from a reputable seller that Wendel from Level1Tech has recomended.
Okay, looking at buying these drives for the server once my bonus from work comes in.
https://serverpartdeals.com/products/seagate-hp-exos-7e8-st8000nm000a-8tb-7-2k-rpm-sata-6gb-s-3-5-refurbished-hdd
Finally got around to watching this and holy shit...
Neither ram nor GPU memory is used up in this games so it could at least load more relevant low LODs
Anyways, found this really great video that explains what power spikes might happen when you unplug your PC (or AMP) while running
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNe37rtuu/
912 Likes, 25 Kommentare. „straight out the factory with a MAJOR problem! why cant the factories get this right?“
darn just missed out on a Titan V
really wanted that for my collection
i either want the Titan V or Quadro GV100
i would prefer the GV100 because it looks cooler imo but either are a fun bit of history I'd love to have
hope NVidia bring back that champagne gold and matt black swagger look for the high end GPU of next gen they probs wont but i can hope
Unreasonably cool looking card
Damn. Pat Gelsinger has resigned. He didn't last long at all.
The entire video I kept thinking there was no way it could get worse and it was just a trainwreck.
I'm familiar with how GN formats their videos so I was expecting it to keep escalating to about the 3/4 point where they start wrapping up with their conclusions.
Although I have no idea who any of the people they had clipped are.
Okay, new to me server will be here by Wednesday. So I have that to look forward to. Still need to deside on what OS to install. Since its just for a Homelab for learning I think I'll start with Proxmox.
And Also rebuilding an old 6700k setup for a Linux AI server. Not sure what OS I want to use yet.
Yes. Join the land of Proxmox w/ TrueNAS
I mean, its just to learn Proxmox, dockers, containers. And not worry about bricking an OS from messing around with settings like I did with my TrueNAS setup.
My plan, is ambitious. My end goal is to move all my home automation over to the Linux PC (gonna be a 6700k and 2x 2080 TIs in SLI) running Home Assistant in a container/Docker (Again new to this kind of stuff) and create my own voice assistant locally hosted using an LLM to make it "smarter".
Prox does a good job simplifying the docker stuff but, since it’s still debian under the hood, you can get pretty in depth with it via the command line if you want to
You want to run SLI on linux?
Yea intel in real bad shape atm unfortunately the only thing going well for them is laptops and the server side everything else not going too great
YES!!!
So weird issue, trying to play Mech warriors 5 clans. Game loads fine, but as soon as I click to open up the game menu I get a popup that basically says game crashed, fatal error. The thing is the game has not crashed, and I can quite happily interact with it without issue. Everything seems to run fine.
However about 30 seconds after that error pops up the game automatically shuts down.
Try to look for a config file like an INI and delete that, that would be my 1st thing, after that I would just reinstall it.
As far as I can tell it does not have a config INI
And I have already tried reinstalling it
It doesn't?
That's weird, because mine had 1.
If you have RT turned off, I would try turning it on, I know it's counter intuitive for performance, but mine wouldn't run stable with RT turned off.
It crashes as soon as the main menu loads. You know the click to continue screen?
That wont crash, but as soon as I click it does
There already?
Hm, no idea how to fix that, could be a DX error or Microsoft C++ or Visual basic causing the error'
The funny thing is the game has not actually crashed though, I can click continue and launch the game
have you heard about HexOS?
It's TrueNAS based but vastly simpler to get going while still providing all the functionality of TrueNAS
Weird......
With what Rukh is describing I think Prox is the safer option. TrueNAS is nice in that it has the functionality. However its main job is NAS with bonus support for containers. Same as Prox is a hyperv with bonus support for NAS
How about HexOS
Just like Chaos described. It’s based in TrueNAS so it’s main job is NAS with bonus features
Okay, reading more into it beyond passing blurbs I’m going to stay away from Hex for now and just recommend using Scale directly. It being paid and not syncing with changes in Scale makes me leery of getting into async states where Scale is doing one thing but Hex is saying another. Maybe once it’s out of beta and has that sync functionality I’ll reconsider. For now though if you have the ability like Rukh does I wouldn’t touch it.
I definitely like the idea of making it more convenient for the layman though. I hope it takes off and gains that synchronization with the underlying os.
tbf they make it pretty pricey to have that ease of use (at least with the lifetime license) BUT there is a lifetime license, which IMO is super cool nowadays.
reminds me of NetLimiter, where I got a lifetime license and after like 1 1/2 years they released an update to the program which is not covered by it anymore (and subsequently only updated the new, subscription-based version)
much angry, so grrrr
The way things are going I’m sure they’ll pivot into at least no longer selling the lifetime license
That’s down the line though
But $300 to just try it in Early Access is Star Citizen backer kinds of crazy- oh

Using the Linux system to run an LLM locally thats tied to Home Assistant to create a custom local voice controlled smart assistant (Think like Amazon Alexa, but its local). Can't imagine SLI wouldn't help for AI.
Yup, and it literally uses the TrueNas GUI anyways, but costs money. Watched a quick video on it here the other day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIrvXAb7Ptc
https://lawrence.video/truenas
@TechnoTim HexOS Video
https://youtu.be/Vyyq0_aOkIo?si=Y8f5NSDXRBolP6Gd
@LinusTechTips HexOS Video
https://youtu.be/kiXSswB45kY?si=SFmZDR7oRWnOhnbh
Connect With Us
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Literally installing an app on HexOS it directs you to the TrueNas Gui anyways. But, in current Beta form HexOS isn't local. As in, you log in from their website only, No thanks.
Proxmox so far sounds like a good place to start learning (this is a Homelab mind you) about Dockers, containers, hypervisors, VMs.
The Linux PC going to be running a fork of Delain more than likely.
See this video for what I am planning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvbVePuP7NY
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I’m replacing Amazon Alexa with my own, completely local AI voice assistant!! The amazing part is that it cleanly integrates with my home automation system, Home Assistant. Also, it’s using local LL...
in early access the LT license is 100 bucks, in about a week 200 and after that continuously 300 (they've promised to keep that).
The license is not for any coming features that have recurring costs for them (like any automatic domain creation feature or similar)
this is an oversigght on their part which they've also promised to fix in about a week (since their main investor would not use / advocate if he couldnt access locally)
ik I sound like a shill but I'm genuinly curious where it's going and want to give a proper chance
Someones offering a really good deal on a binned 7980xe+mobo do I take it I want a chip that's fun to oc not much use in the 7980x these days considering it looses in multi core stock to the 7700x
Or I might get one of the new i5s and do the opposite and undervolt it and see how low I can get the power while still being able to game on it
Well, the "new" used server arrived. With no power cords. Both PSU installed, no cords. WTF.
I have so many power cables that I’m specially requesting new servers ship without them
But also if it was untested and replaced then they likely left the cables in place for the swap
okay i am now in possetion of a very cheaply aquired X299 mobo and Binned 7980XE any recomendations on fun stuff i can do with it im obviously gonna OC it because it was binned be DeBauer
but any other recomendations
Okay, so its dual 750W PSU, 12V 62.5A max
12VSB 2.5A max.
My question is, would a standard Amazon power cord like this one work?
Yes
Server sold said it was tested, and shows pictures of it botted up. How legit that is I have no idea, but seller has a ton of sales with great feedback.
You can probably also find them at your local hardware store or target
Okay, cool. So 2 of those will work fine.
sellers like this are often literally refurb companies
Ebay Seller called computerpartscom
if you go onto their Ebay page they often have links to their official websites and are like full on legit refurb companies that buy or are paied to take away other companies old stuff then to make some money they sell it on ebay
Welcome to ComputerParts! We are a one-stop-shop for all your computer parts and electronic needs.
Our mission is to provide high-quality computer parts and electronics at affordable prices, along with exceptional customer service. Whether you're a casual computer user, a gaming enthusiast, or a professional in need of top-of-the-line component...
yea they look plenty legit
my go to in the UK is a company called Byte Stock or ServerSetc as they go by on ebay
Got 2 of those amazon basics power cords on order.
I checked the seller item page, And yeah, I guess it was on me assuming if the product ships with PSUs that they would include the power cords.
most people who buy servers buy in bulk
it is VERY rare you would have only 1 server running say a database such as Epicore or SAP
think of it when you buy from these companies as you buying a component for an entire system
Power cords will be here Saturday. Now I need to find some cheap 2.5 drives to populate it with so that I can get it fired up and install an OS.
Let me know how it goes you should run an SSD as a boot+cache drive
Will really help the performance if you are using harddrives
If you are using ssds you can get intel enterprise drives used for like £20 per tb
Where are you finding an ssd for $20 per terabyte!?
Which reminds me.
@cerulean helm Does your new server come with a raid controller?
used, optane
My Google-fu is substandard. I’m not finding anything better that $60 for a 1 tb ssd
But also you don’t need a terabyte for the boot drive. 300 gb is plenty
But having 1.8TB worth of Virtual Memory is amazing 😃
According to the listing it should have a HP Smart Array P410i.
noice, HP smart array is fairly nice
So Prox uses zfs. You can either bypass your controller to allow zfs to manage the volumes or use the raid controller to manage the drives and configure zfs to have a single volume mapped to the raid
be aware tho - in a raid5 the device will not boot if a drive is done for
Just an fyi because prox will complain if you try to configure a single volume
Planning on using a couple drives at least. Haven't figured out what ones yet. More than likely 2.5 ssd.
Ive got a 870 evo 1tb and a 850 evo 1tb unused atm.
If you’re doing 3 drives or less it might be better to forego the raid then
I'll use one of my spare Samsung EVO ssds as a boot drive. As for the drives for the bays. Found this so far:
The Micron drives are brand new, the Intel ones are refurbished by ServerPartDeals.
Wendell from Level1Tech recommended them for buying used drives.
Nice!
Which ones are the better buy though. The Micron drives are brand new and the Intel drives are refurbed by the storefront and are listed at 97% health and up to 39k power on hours.
Unless you need the capacity I’d go with the Micron
given that the Intels are 3/4 the price per GB, I'm temped to go with them but I have no idea in what state a "refurbed" ssd might be.
your application will not be write intensive, right?
given this information - it seems more like a setup and forget it application - no constant writes to the drive.
The Intels should be SLC as far as I can guess so It's more than likely to just be fine for like 5-10 years lol.
If you'd be training an LLM on them I could imagine some more writes / rearranging of data
Homelab setup.
This is the page for the Intel SSDs
https://serverpartdeals.com/collections/solid-state-drives/products/intel-p4610-ssdpe2ke016t8-1-6tb-pcie-gen-3-1-x4-4gb-s-u-2-nvme-2-5-refurbished-ssd
I will be using an LLM, but that will be on a separate machine. Also rebuilding a I7 6700k setup with dual 2080 ti for am "AI" machine.
eBay from refurb sellers
If you go through a proper refurb company they can tell you the state of the drives before you buy them
Listing for the seller refurbed from Server Part Deals
Wendel from Level1Tech stands by these guys, if that means anything. And has purchased over a hundred refurbed drives and has less than 5 die on him.
I don’t know who that is but if that failure rate is accurate then they’re probably solid
Well. Purchased 2 of the Intel drives and 2 of the Micron drives. Ouch, that was expensive. At least was given free 2 day air shipping via UPS. Gonna use the Intel SSDs for the server and the Micron ones with the LLM pc I am building.
I wonder if it is better to always go for m2 even if that means a pci card
Sata seems like such a slowdown
For 99% of tasks you wont be able to tell the difference between a sata and a nvme drive.
However the price of NVME drives means they are the better option 99% of the time as well
Only for stuff like big data you will notice a huge difference.
And for games Latency is more important than just a fast SSD, IOPS is more important to a game than Mbps.
using but not training, right?
but for a boot drive you do want a high speed NVME tbf just makes the os so much more responsive
really is a shame intel dont make optane anymore a M.2 Gen5 Optane would actually be insane
especially with PCIE Gen5 now being so fast and such low latency you can actually run DDR5 RAM over it
Request for them is too low, besides a Samsung drive is much faster because Mbps is higher, and that's what people look for
Partial sarcasm
samasungs drives arent even faster
they never even have been
the P5800X from intel is as fast as the fastest gen 4 samsung drive and its an optane drive
so in practice it ends up outperforming in everything but sequential writes every SSD ever made
I know, but people love numbers
I seen builds with PCIe 5.0 SSDs that only have a PCIe 3.0 slot
Correct. Using locally only.
Okay, had to go and buy a VGA cable for the old server. But confirmed it boots up. I have a single 1TB 870 EVO installed in the first drive bay (I believe thats the bay thats for the OS). Now to install Proxmox.
Wow, this thing is slow to boot up.
any one have ideas what to use this for other than playing with it for overclocking i genuinely do not have a use for it
Render server?
i dont render much
and even if i did
my 7700x might not actually be too much slower
I wouldn't know what to do with it
If parts are old enough I combine them to give away to someone who needs a PC but can't afford 1
its a 7980xe that was binned by debauer
I mean, I still wouldn't know what to do with it😅
Well, looks like I won't be using HPs IPMI or ILO as they call it. Its too old and the SSL certs don't work with any modern browser. So no remote access that way. So, monitor and keyboard it is. Just had to go purchase a VGA cable, lol.
Hmm. Strange. I have 1 SSD installed currently in the first drive sl;ot, and have an ISO of Proxmox on a USB drive. When sellecting to one time boot from USB I get this:
Attempting to boot from USB Drivekey (C 🙂
Remove all disks or other media.
Press any key to restart.
This loops until I unplug the USB drive.
Firefox should still be able to force it
Firefox was the first browser I tried unfortunately.
At a minimum you should be able to update all that with the direct connection via bios and then start using it headless
ssl_error_no_cypher_overlap is the error I get.
How would I update the ILO via Bios?
There should be a section for managing the out of band interface
Set up user, disable ssl, configure ip for it. All that
I haven’t used HP’s version but that’s how the others work
Okay, now to find out how to access the BIOS.
operating system usualkly resides inside the chassis (on a USB drive)
you can still connect (via Details > connect anyways) in any browser
Nope.
should display the keys while booting
huh... never gotten that before...
anything under "learn more"?
you can also try the IP adress on port 80 i.E. http://192.168.1.X:80
this seems wrong
Auto redirect
huh... have you tried with specifiying port 80 directly?
like here?
this doc might help
https://support.hpe.com/hpesc/public/docDisplay?docId=emr_na-a00020426en_us
Server uses iLO 3
there's probably a browser flag to allow TLS 1.1
ahh: open about:config in firefox,
then set security.tls.version.enable-deprecated to true
this should enable old TLS versions
That did it. However, how safe is it to leave that enabled in firefox?
if you do not use very old (very unpopular unmaintained sties) and enter passwords there, very safe
it's mainly a protection against snooping on public networks
it will probably still warn you that the version is outdated (in the lock-icon in the adress bar at least)
Yes, it gave me the warning but able to continue. I am now in the HP iLO.
great :)
Now I can update the iLO
maybe you can find options to upgrade or something
ahh
you're gonna do great on your own from now on - will be available for another hour in case something blows up
Reddit ftw, found a link to iLO3 from HPE and the bin file. Updating from version 1.26 from 2011, to 1.94 from 2020.
Sigh... Every step is a fight with this thing. Now I can't access remote console/
Wait so you installed an unofficial BIOS?
Very unrecommended dude
Whats the latest official image and why didn't you stick to that?
No, I updated iLO 3. Thats it.
That bin file was direct from HPE.
I'm now trying to launch the remote console.
Neither the Intrigrated Remove Console launches nor does the Java based console launch. Both give errors.
The error I get when launching the .Net IRC is "
Deployment and application do not have matching security zones"
Fucking Finally. Never got the Java or the iLO3 remote console to work inside the browser but found the iLO desktop App, plus a free standard lisence and now have remote access. And can install Proxmox.
It only took 5 hours to figure all this out. lol
So, I am at Proxmox install and I am in the remote console but I cannot select the user agreement because the screen resulotion is 640x480. And I can't scroll at all. Any ideas?
Using a dedicated monitor doesn't work either in that as soon as Proxmox starts to load the monitor goes black and I get a "video input not supported". This is using a VGA cable as thats the only way to connect to the server.
might be able to tab to the button and keyboard click it. or use a button shortcut, but in both cases you likely dont know which button it is
Yeah, was trying that and wasn't having any luck. However I just found a random post on the Proxmox forums with someone who has the same server I do. And they had to edit the resolution in the install. Then it worked on their monitor.
And got to the actual install finally. A bit confused on the network settings ip address CIDR for example. I have my gateway IP, my DNS IP. Not sure what the CIDR should be.
But, as I don't have more than 1 install drive I won't continue.
Speaking of drives. I had a spare 850 Evo and 870 Evo that I was going to run the OS on in raid 1 for redundancy. Both SSDs were in my old rig I replaced 2 years ago. The 850 Evo died, somehow.
Okay thats weird. I pulled a known good SSD from an outdated and unused laptop. So the server has an 850 Evo and an 860 Evo installed. Both 1TB. I can see both drives in the iLO (iPMI) under the drives setting. So the server sees both of them fine.
Yet when installing Proxmox when selecting the install disk. I cannot setup a raid 1. Proxmox only sees 1 of the SSDs.
Price to pound how do we feel about the 4080 Super kids?
Is prox seeing the ssd or the controller?
Should wait a little longer - will come down in price once rtx 5000 hits
SSD as far as I can tell. The HP iLO shows both drives and says they are good.
Also discovered that if you install any non HP/HPE recognized pcie device the 6 delta fans automatically ramp up to 60-65% fan speed and stay there. So, if I want a 10G NIC I have to find one that was made for this server so the fans don't turn the server into a noise machine.
Enterprise hardware is fun, aint it? :D
When I finally got the iLO working, the power load at idle with no OS was 205W with a non HP 10G nic installed. After I removed it and reinstalled a 4 port 1G HP nic the power load dropped to 147W. Just nuts.
I think iLO is interfacing with the controller and can report the individual drive status. If they’re in slots for the existing RAID controller and it’s not bypassing the raid then it should be presenting the raided drives as a single one.
The drives are not in raid via the controller. It sees both and does correctly identify what they are. I wanted Proxmox to raid them. So I skip the drive setup during the server boot.
Gotcha
Proxmox only sees one 1TB drive. Unless I somehow managed to tell the server to raid them. I don't think I did.
When I boot up the server it tells me 1 logical drive I believe, I'll check again. What the boot sequence says.
Prox is ultimately running on top of debian. You can use that to Google and query how to see which drives are being seen by the system
The Smart Array P410i Controller upon boot says 1 logical drive. Does that make any sense?
That- yep
No, Guess I'll need to boot into setup to do that then.
Yup
So the server set them up in raid automatically when I first booted it?
Oh definitely not if it was still running firmware from 2011.
I did, or thought I did go into setup and select select defaults and reboot. Guess that didn't reset everything. And yeah, that was before I updated the iLO firmware.
Default is probably with the drives being used in raid
Otherwise no point in having the controller present
Ah
And to be clear you can run it that way. I have one of each configuration at work right now for reasons
I assume I want Proxmox to controll the raid so that its in ZFS, since thats what I am trying to learn. This is just for the OS install though.
if your intent is specifically to learn zfs then yes
Im in the setup/BIOS for the server what exactly would I look for to stop the controller auto setup drives into raid? Also, if I let the controller do its thing and I install Proxmox the drives are in I assume Raid 1 since Proxmox only shows 1TB of storage available. And last, when I get more drives to install for Proxmox would the server controller auto configure them if I don't change anything in BIOS?
The raid controller has its own sub-menu / bootable ROM
In the BIOS
Not under boot tho
That would not be in the setup menue (F9) for the system ultilities?
I haven’t worked on hp so I don’t know what menu it would be under
Just look thru everything lmao
I do know it’s different from my Dell hardware and my TrueNAS hardware
Youll recognize it when you see it
So I expect HP to also be different
Have you looked at the manual?
What’s under Advanced Options
Should be advanced or system options
That first ROM one looks interesting
Maybe also under availability?
Oh, its in a different setup menu... Cause reasons. I'm in the setup utility (F9). Aparently what I need to do is:
Sounds right
Oh, yeah. I thought that’s where you’d landed 😂
At least I'm getting good at remote reboot on this thing, lol.
That should give you access to the out of band access settings as well if you wanted to do anything there
This what I am looking for?
I'd guess view, then delete
Yup, sounds about right...
You know the different raid types?
Def delete the raid tho
Somewhat, getting more familair. I know raid 1 is just a mirror for 2 drives. Which is what I want for the Proxmox OS for redundancy. But I wanted proxmox to controll that, not the raid controller. Unless thats pointless.
Oh shit, no jbod
Hello, I'm running Solaris 10u8 on a DL380G6 with 8 disks : - 2146G in RAID1 as a system disk - 6500G to store data I want to use 500G disks in a raidZ fashion, and I need the system to see the "independently". I tried to create several logical drives, using hpacucli but It refuses to create mo...
JBOD (or raid bypass, or passthrough mode) is not available in the P410i. The workaround is to create one raid0 array with one in each one. Create a single LUN in each array that spans the whole disk. Then in solaris, each logical disk would reflect back to one physical disk.
Prox can do it but it’s more complicated without jbod to bypass
Uh, that went kinda over my head just a bit, lol. But basically with this raid controller Proxmox cannot control the raid to make it ZFS?
Hang on, you think proxmox can interface with the raid controller?
Jbod is the wrong term i believe
If you delete the RAID do you have access to the individual disks from proxmox?
I have no idea. I'm walking blind into all this.
All I was doing was following a Proxmox install video for V 8.1 (I'm installing 8.2 I believe) And when they selected the OS install they setup the OS in a Raid 1 config for redundancy.
I cannot select Raid 1 in the Proxmox install as the controller already put the drives in a Raid 1.
At least, this is what I think has happened.
So the question is, is that fine to proceed with the OS install with Proxmox under I believe it was Ex4 (Or something like that)?
Yes, you can install prox with only one logical volume from a hardware raid controller. Proxmox will throw a warning about it
First though did you already delete the volume on the raid controller?
Okay, so it would still be mirrered right?
And when I install other drives for the Homelab once they arrive will Proxmox be able to set them up in ZFS?
And no I haven't deleted anything just yet. Still sitting in the menu.
The hardware raid would do the mirroring for you, yes.
When you add drives (I haven’t done this with prox yet so taking a guess) I think the logical volume in the physical controller will expand and then you would need to expand the existing volume in proxmox
So I won't be able to make 2 logical drives? The Proxmox OS and whatever ZFS pool I create in Proxmox would all be together basically?
I thought you had prox installed on another drive?
No, these 2 drives are going to be the OS install. I have some Micron 5300 Pros ordered for a small ZFS pool.
Wait, maybe Google to the rescue.
Yes, host bus adapter is the "direct access" I'm talking about
Yeah, that looks like the ticket
I'm starting to see that IT work is a lot, and I mean a lot of googling something obscure to try and see if it will work.
I would recommend AGAINST installing the OS on any funky stuff, in fact I would use a USB drive for the OS and put all the vms and data on the actual disks
OS is going on 850 and 870 Samsung EVO 1TB drives.
And I read its a bad Idea to use a USB drive as the OS for Proxmox as it does a lot of reads and will wear out the drive fast.
Ohh didnt know
And back to the beginning. Looks like this old controller doesn't have an HBA mode and people have had to hack there way to force it. Not something I want to do on an intrigrated controller.
Okay, looks like I should just wait till all my drives arrive and setup everything in the raid controller for storage and then install proxmox.
You guys already seen this fan-ception? :D
https://www.pcgameshardware.de/Luftkuehlung-Hardware-217993/News/Arctic-S12038-4K-1461300/
I mean how much power would this ridiculous thing pull to warrant active motor cooling : xD
Yes
it doesnt actually need it
the motor without the active cooling only gets to like 35C
the cooling only drops it down to like 25
its just for that ultra longevity
My mobile data quality in work is ass how hard will it be to make my own mobile cell carrier
Stg
Haha here it europe thats super illigal
Like you need permits for radio cells of a specific frequency
There's GSM / 4G repeaters meant for places like malls etc that are priced OK-ish and don't require permits
Here in germany you need to rent the specific frequency band afaik
for cell they all use the same frequencies so you probably wouldnt need to rent the frequency but you'd need an internet provider and to rent a space or bandwidth on a tower
