#3d-printing
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I had 3d printed the new Shiba a few months back
That looks really cool!
Here's what the model looks like for reference
There's 2 things I'd recommend doing; install the built-in 3d printer plugin in blender to check if everything is manifold, and then open it in meshmixer for some final tweaking.
Optionally you can subdivide before exporting into meshmixer to get rid of the "blockiness" of 3d models and smooth everything out :)
Sweeeeet, that's a great result, especially for a FDM printer ^^
Some parts aren’t manifold
And if I delete them, it deletes nearly the entire model
Also subdivision freezes blender
Does decimating also help
Subdividing indeed always freezes blender for a bit, but just be patient and maybe don't increase the values after adding the script
Okay, that means you should export the model into meshmixer and use the "make solid" tool ^^
Decimating makes it more blocky, wouldn't recommend using that when youre making a model for 3d printing, as you'll lose detail
You V-tube?!
Yep. On twitch.
Ooooo
Do you mean what angle the model should be on, or what angle overhang must be for supports to be used?
I figured it out
probably shouldn't be using an xbox 360 kinect to take a picture of this but I don't have a phone qwp
I finally printed this after weeks of crying and throwing up
I feel like I've seen some of these before 🤔
Hey there stranger
ABS-like resin?
FDM?
Like a filament printer
yes
Ooooof
I feel for you
I didn’t even bother trying that, I’m just going straight for resin
What printer is that though, that’s really high detail for a filament printer?
😮💨
That’s dope but at the same time I’m hurt
Yo you might actually have pretty good luck breaking it apart into pieces connected with ball joints. You’d have a fully articulating model
Ok, after testing the vtuber mount, it definitely needs to be two parts.
One will mount to the monitor top, the other will be the iPhone mount.
Also, iPhone face tracking has some MAD range.
Like 10 feet
It seems to have an optimal distance, too close and it doesn't like it, too far and it starts to lose tracking.
Didn't really have good photos of my avatar
But i’d say not bad for a 2nd print. Haven’t sanded yet. It is a little over 8 inches tall. Elegoo grey abs like resin on elegoo saturn for anyone wondering.
I own a 3D printing shop and am recreating it in VRC! Jinxbot 3D Shop! It is a work in progress
I am also looking to implement some world functionality with UdonMotion by Lox9973 so I can show people a smaller version of what their pose is, and export the pose data via ShaderMotion to blender. Ultimatly letting people pose for their 3D Printed Avatar.
Please DM me if you want to help. I am learning myself, but it is slow going
Technically this is from NeosVR using their pose and turn into baked pose figure....
But I also use the model in VRchat.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/663499185718558832/963081855459000361/unknown.png printing out 3d hexagon plant pots from one vrc map
That’s adorable
2 weeks of trials and tuning but the print farm is now putting out glass smooth prints 👌👌👌
Which printers do you guys use?
Aquila Voxelab
We use upgraded ender3s
Impressive, can you tell me which upgrades u did?
Yea we run glass beds, upgrade bed springs and knobs, crtouch auto bed leveling. dual gear feed extruders on half the printers with stock hot ends, the other half of printers use the micro swiss direct drive hot ends. We also have z axis rod supports on all the printers
A friend printed my Avatar and i colored it myself :3
Cute
Cute Basti 😍
Designed and printed some nice powerbank mount for my FrankenQuest 🙂
That’s so cool
That's so adorableee
Brooo, that's rad! I wish I know how to deal with designing and 3d printing
Brooo, People here are so talented
Thank You 😼
You are very welcome, pal ❤
does that work on vrchat or pcvr
the vr u are using
@tender sandal that's a strange question...
I use it for wireless PCVR by playing the Steam version of VRChat on my PC and streaming it through a WiFi6 router,
but I also can play VRChat version from the Oculus store without using a PC.
What vr is that
What are some good 3D printing services
Shapeways?
it's a Quest 2 with a Vive deluxe audio strap attached to it, with a powerbank attached to that. they're playing PCVR wirelessly using Virtual desktop and a dedicated wifi 6 router
Such a DIY project, seriously. 😂
The best DIY project for quest tho
Are you looking for individual parts, small orders, bulk runs?
Are you wanting just the printing or designing too?
1 big order
A bracket that clips onto Windows Mixed Reality controllers, giving an anchor point for the wrist strap to be used in a similar fashion to the Index controller's hand straps.
This is a remix of the Prescription adapter for Samsung Odyssey by rcaslis.
I wanted a cheaper alternative than using vr-lens-lab lenses which is almost $80 USD for their prescription lenses. I ended up order from zenni which cost me $32 using frame #550021 (https://www.zennioptical.com/p/metal-alloy-full-rim-frame-with-spring-hinges/5500?skuId=...
These both helped my entire experience a lot.
i own, 1) 2 Rep2 makerbots, 2) PRUSA MK3v3. I have access to 1) Phrozen Sonic Mega 8k, 2) another PRUSA MK3v3, 3) ZPrinter 450, 4) a small army of Flashforge Finder, and flashforge pros, 5) a Anycubic Photon
A wooden Replicator1 workhorse, Ender5 pro, Ender3 pro... a Folgertech Cloner and old Printrbot maker's kit, both up on blocks like old muscle cars that I part out to keep the others modded and running. Ever see an Ender3 modded to use and old Ubis hot end extruder?
Yo I just got a 3D printer today ( ender 3) and require some assistance. So if anyone could shoot me a dm or something that would be nice
gotta be better ender discords then this... lot of things that are very specific to that machine that can go wrong / could use an upgrade.
Regulus statue 🗿
Lol
That my main base I use
Finished a print and painted it for a friend for vrchat( Bunny is my avatar and the wolf is my friend) forgot to add the mask before printing 
lol it does but thats when the paint is still wet
I made this cable clip for my valve index.
Probably interesting for fellow index owners.
https://www.printables.com/model/222007-valve-index-cable-clip-for-pulley-system
The amount of stress on a tiny area of the cable here is gonna mess it up longer term
With cable clips you want to bend the cables gently and allow them slack to move instead of tug and bend
It's not possible since the pulley system pulls the cable upwards which causes the kink with the stock setup. My original cable broke after like 3 months. No problems with this mod now so far.
Zip tying it like that isn't gonna make it last longer
What I'd suggest is to get rid of the stock cable clip entirely, then mess around with how you can attach it to avoid the sharp bends
But it doesn't affect the wires? It just slightly squeezes the heat shrink
The wires twist and turn internally
You want that twist and turn to be distributed over as large of an area as possible
which is why kinks mess up cables, because that stress is on a single area
There is always gonna be a stress point when the cable is pulled up. Do you have a better idea design wise?
@visual saddle
I appreciate the feedback
Something like this maybe
I have a G2, which has the same headstrap and clip, with the exception of the knob, I routed my cable at one point for a pulley system, trynna find the pic, but it was similar to this
It's also about making the attachment point where the cable leaves the headset more loose, so the cable can move rather than bend
How do you avoid a kink when the cable is loose? The problem is the excessive pull force
Other than that, make your pulley system have as much slack as possible, and try adding counterweights to the cable side so they don't tug so hard
This is the problem with pulleys, preferably you want as high of a clearance to the ceiling, so you can have the cable hanging there without being completely tight
There's slack in normal standing position but when squatting or sitting it's tight ofc
Try to make it pull tight as late as possible when crouching, while still having it out of the way when standing
and next is to attach some kind of metal with weight to it where the pulleys attach to the cables to reduce the pull
I would argue that this is still a much better design than the stock cable clip. The stock one is made for the cable to hang down
I stopped using pulleys because you'd get horrible cable tug when doing anything but standing up and not turning around muihc
and instead replaced the original clip with some velcro to get the least amount of tug / bend
This is a pretty bad pic, but gets the idea across when it comes to cable placement
The clip I use is pretty wide, allows the cable to move around and not get tugged
I stopped using this though, because the level of bend and tug was just, bad, compared to not even using a pulley
This was my G2 with stock clip, basically same as the index, the clip kinks the cable and tugs it dowards, making it fucked over time
True that's a downside. I can't imagine dancing without a pulley system personally 😁
I used velcro aswell at first, it's better than the stock clip
Then here's what I use now
The tug is basically completely downwards, cable has plenty of space to move so that the tug is always lengthwise with the cable
These cables have no issue being tugged when straight, but start bending them and tugging on them when they're not straight and you get cable damage
This is by far what has held up for the longest amount of time compared to the other ways I've fucked my cable
The key is to avoid sharp bends and let the cable move as much as possible to avoid kinks, and distributing the stress
I reduced the cable strain a bit with fibre reinforced silicone tape that is meant for cables
makes the bend lot smoother overall when tugging cable
whats your workflow to get your 3d models printable? i got lots of issues last time i tried it
measure -> design with cad -> export as STL or OBJ -> import to slicer (cura or prusa slicer) -> make slicing choices (infill, orientation, material type, etc.) -> export as gcode -> transport to printer -> run print job -> post work
one of the hardest parts is starting with a model not intended for printing... aka organic blender model. recently i found there is a blender plugin to solidify non-solid models - 3D print toolbox
I know that one. I was more relating to the vrc model -> printable file part xP since that isnt something you do with CAD. At least not that I know of. I design regular stuff already.
ah... not entirely true... you can do it with some CAD... however... it's not fast... and it would not be the best way.
also CAD is regular stuff... depends on your point of view.... 🙂
anyway have looked at "3D print toolbox" plugin in blender?
yeah i looked at that before. but that just tells me how unprintable stuff is.
manual edits to the mesh are likely still needed. but i thought it had some other options to help fill gaps. aka you still need to know blender mesh edit and posing.
i am quite versed in that as I do my vrc models myself mostly. was just thinking if there are some easier ways to get them print ready other than editing all the stuff manually^^
since models are not really made with printing in mind in the first place (thin faces, non connected parts,....)
Thats and interesting tool probably will give it a try, I currently set up the pose i want from any model including mmds, then i go to increase the poly count so its as smooth as possible. This will leave some holes if the vertices aren’t attached to each other which i fox manually before applying the subdivision for more polys.( i do this with separation of materials so i can adjust as needed). After everything looks fine i would use solidify to add thickness on the parts as needed.
Other thing would be to check for any floating parts and make sure to either remove or put it so it touches the model if printed all in one
Oh and careful on increasing the polys since going too far will crash blender
( softwares used : blender and CHITUBOX )
floatie things will always be and issue will require some manual intervention.
Cura and other FDM slicers have some "hole" fixing options... not sure how good they are or if chitubox has that.
chitubox has an option to fix some holes but so far it hasn't work for me at all, probably good for simple shapes
GUNDAM
He’s hot
i posted the design on thingiverse in case anyone wants it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5430454
This is my first freecad project so it is flawed, the holes for the cables are too thin so conventional cables won't fit. Some drilling might be necessary. Feel free to remix this making the holes bigger.
Should work for all kind of vive trackers.
The design is meant to support the trackers along with their straps, so it's not necessary to take ...
Freakin GENIUS!
well i got magnetic chargers for it and i will have to stick the cables to it so that they dont move so the design could definitely be better lol
but welp i already have them printed so i cant be bothered to improve it
Some modular mounts for knuckles and trackers. Trying to find a universal system for mounting any combination of knuckles and trackers. Next is to make one's for quest, vive 3.0 and tundras
