#Lekker V2 Tolerances need work ASAP

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

maiden spear
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As the title says, Lekkers improved but honestly removing them from the 80HE is a god damn pain in the butt. The fact that I (someone who has removed a lot of switches in the past due to modding and also owning a few Boards) am actually damn feared when pulling them is just bad. The whole damn plate morphs while pulling. Its actually crazy. Once the Switch is gone and a replacement like a Jade Pro is in the board those are removed easily. Every Time I get a Lekker back in, the pain simply repeats, so it sadly cannot be a first time removal thingy. The sound profile is also sadly; quite bad even when hand lubed. I kinda feel moved back to Corsair K70 times.

The board itself feels wonderful. The weight, the feel and the software are just wonderful. Sure I cant say too much about the Software for now as I did not play around long enough. Switching the wooting PBT Caps I ordered to PBTFans Purpurite I have laying around here doesnt make a real sound difference and thats good. The Keycaps are great I think.

final shale
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but i totally agree with u on that, they actually 'bend' way too easily

plucky pawn
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i had trouble puling the raws out too. No issues with the jades.

desert roost
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i think they already did change the size

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of the plate

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this is from my memory, dont count on it

bronze plaza
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We're aware of this and looking into a process for future kbs/modules to have it not such as tight fit weeb_salute

graceful bramble
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A tiny chamfer around the switch holes on the bottom of the plate perhaps? A tight fit is generally a good thing but the switch “latches” of both the Lekker V1s and V2s aren’t well designed. TTC and Gateron’s newer switches do a much better job.

graceful bramble
final shale
final shale
modern wedge
graceful bramble
# final shale which one is which

Lekker V2’s “latch” is in red and TTC KOM’s is in green. The “latch” sits against the bottom of the switch plate. With Lekker’s—because it sits flat against the bottom—pulling out switches is difficult and nearly always breaks or bends the “latches” in the process. TTC KOM’s “latch” is like a bump, which makes the removal much easier and does not damage the “latches”.

After Lekker’s “latches” break or bend, they’re much easier to remove. You should also always put the pulling pressure on the side where the light window isn’t if that makes sense. The light window is thin and weak and you’ll bend it if you put force on it. 😄

grand arrow
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There are 3 parts:

  1. The PC plate is too soft and is easily pulled upwards by the hooks/latches.
  2. The PC plate on the 80GHE the tolerances are all on the smaller spectrum, causing a tighter fit.
  3. The above mentioned, this conributes to the total pulling force required, and more is less desirable for the PC plate.

When we developed the 80HE, the PC plate tolerances were on the mid to high side. But going into MP it was set to a low to mid tolerance.

We don't want to adjust the tolerance of the switch holes back to mid to high, because it'll make other switches fit worse. At the moment we're adjusting the molds for the Lekker v2 to lower the pulling forece req. one of the changes is above, but it's prmarily the hooks on left and right side coming from the top casing.

These changes take time to go into effect during MP.

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We've learned quite a bit this year on several subjects and aim to make improvements across the board going into 2025. Thanks a lot for the feedback onthese items.

final shale
candid plume
lone flower
graceful bramble
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it’s a bit of an exaggeration but it shows how it works. The grey is the plate and you can see that just the peak of the bump sits below the plate.

graceful bramble
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For Wooting’s future switch, please implement these changes:

  • A stonger/thicker light window (similar to Gateron’s KS-20U, Jade Pro, Jade Gaming and Jade Maxes) this will resolve the current light window from bending/breaking when pulling force is applied.
  • Remove the side latches as suggested here a while ago: https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1233053518542147604
  • Change the front and back latches to bumps similar to those of the TTC KOM’s.
grand arrow
# candid plume This is something that hasn't been talked about enough. It probably should have ...

Prototype didn’t run into the issue as mentioned, samples before were on high tolerance side for the switch holes making it easier. So it wasn’t an apparent issue at the time

You also don’t break the board, you just wear the switch hooks which afterwards are easier to install and take out.

If you end up having one very tight, you need to be more tactical and not go full persistent brute.

final shale
final shale
jagged meadow
desert roost
timber moss
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Yeah I also wanted to replace my shift switch from L60 v2 to an L45 v2 and I thought I'll break the board in half before I could take the switch out. I managed to get it out but it took considerable strength

maiden spear
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not to mention the Switch/Keycap tool kinda isnt working as it should. The Ring is there to get your fingers in I assume. Sadly the Switch Puller legs are so long its not stable unless you press both legs together

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(so you cant get your finger into the switch puller)

plucky pawn
graceful bramble