Question about CSGO profile + continuous rapid trigger

[pliant lodge]

Hello,
After messing around in an offline server in CSGO I've noticed that:

1. Rapid trigger upstroke is best between 0.3mm - 0.6mm as mentioned in a previous post by @tawdry geyser , with 0.6mm feeling more consistent/less accidental releases.

2. Rapid trigger downstroke seemed to be more consistent to me with higher values at around 0.7mm. Any lower values seemed to trigger an accidental click if I let go of a key from its bottomed out state to its midpoint.

I used to use a pretty bad, clicky-type switch keyboard with heavier switches, so it makes sense that I would prefer slightly less sensitive settings and the keyboard still feels like a HUGE improvement in game.

For the actuation point: I'm still deciding between 0.5mm or 0.7mm to match the RT downstroke.

Now, to my 2 questions:

1. I've read elsewhere that continuous rapid trigger shouldn't be used for actuation points between (0.4-0.8mm) for fps games.
   However, I've noticed that with continuous rapid trigger disabled, that I sometimes would have accidental misclicks if I release the key to near the top.
   This makes sense to me because if I let go of the key from 4.0mm (bottomed out) to 0.4mm for example, then there would be 0.1mm left to re-trigger the key at an actuation point of 0.5mm with continuous rapid trigger disabled, which would explain the random misclicks.

However, with continuous rapid trigger enabled, I would still need to press the key down an additional 0.7mm (RT downstroke), even if I am at 0.4mm, as RT is still active, and therefore, no misclicks.

Am I misunderstanding anything about continuous rapid trigger and what are the downsides of using it at that actuation point range?

2. For the sake of being consistent: does it make sense to keep actuation point of WASD = to RT downstroke?
   Or should I have actuation point lower since it takes 35g of force to go from 0mm to 0.1mm? And then a more consistent "linear" force that would need a less sensitive setting?

Sorry for rambling 😆

[tawdry geyser]

Awesome, thanks for sharing

Continuous mode is indeed a big question mark on "do we even want that behaviour" in certain configurations or games.
In the end it may all come down to personal preference.

The main concern I have with suggesting or not suggesting it is people getting confused with the behaviour, as it can deviate from what you expect the actuation point to be at.

When I put it on paper, it is odd to recommend continuous mode, as you can activate the switch above the actuation point you set the switch to.
However, it does give new properties to the switch that may be desirable, especially in deeper actuation point users and/or in certain games like MOBA/MMO's/osu.

For deeper actuation points, it may result in a better feeling as then you can prevent the early/accidental press of a key, but once active you full rapid trigger properties on the entire key travel until the key is fully released.

On the topic of should you match downstroke//actuation point. I do not think you have to.
For a long time I played on different actuation points to rapid trigger settings (especially before the update where we gained the ability to separate down&upstroke).
I have however matched my 0.3mm actuation with my 0.3mm rapid trigger sens on my main FPS profile, but do keep in mind that's just my preference right now and I'm always experimenting

[pliant lodge]

Thanks for your very detailed reply! I am still switching back and forth between my newly found profile and your suggested profile (0.3actuation, 0.3downstroke and 0.5upstroke). I feel that as long as I consciously release the key to the very top, I usually have no issues with re-triggering a key. It's only when I release a key to near the very top, where I get an accidental re-trigger. This is where I think (theoretically), continuous rapid trigger might help me, since it would be the same as the RT downstroke throughout the key, but I am still on the fence about it. Your point about continuous rapid trigger making the effective actuation point of the key different is what's keeping me on the fence about using it, since it could interfere with muscle memory. But, for example, if I have actuation on 0.7mm and RT downstroke on 0.7mm, then regardless of whether I release the key to the very top, or if I don't fully release it by accident say to 0.6mm, then I would still need to press the key down another 0.7mm to reactivate it with continuous rapid trigger enabled. This is compared to the 0.1mm leeway that I would have from 0.6mm to 0.7mm which would cause the accidental misclick. Definitely a very niche situation, but I am glad the functionality is there 🙂

[tawdry geyser]

@pliant lodge Can you test if turning off tachyon mode helps at all? I've had 3 similar reports now and I'm curious if Tachyon mode is just messing up key readings for some systems/keyboard models

If it does help, please give some information about your PC (motherboard/CPU/USB setup with the keyboard) and which keyboard you're using

can find it all the pc info in one screenshot using the HWiNFO app
can find/screenshot keyboard serial number in wootility settings when keyboard is connected

[pliant lodge]

Great suggestion! I've now tried with tachyon off and even unplugged my 4khz polling rate mouse and other usb devices but it honestly felt exactly the same. To be clearer, the "re-trigger" that would happen at the top of the key, is more of a "re-hold". So, for example, I would press A and bottom it out, then intentionally release the key and aim for the "1st quadrant" of the key distance (so around 0mm-1mm out of the 4mm). When the issue happens, near the top of the key, I would continue strafing to the left; So I would strafe left continuously (bottoming out A), stop strafing as I let go of the key to its near top, then (accidentally) resume to strafe left as if I've pushed the key back down past its actuation point.

Also, I've noticed that this happens more often with my A key than my D key. At first I thought that it might be the A key switch that is misbehaving, but I tried with my index finger on A, and the issue isn't as repeatable, perhaps I have more control with my index than my ring finger. This is probably because I've trained myself to leave some pressure on keys to be able to more quickly hit the "actuation bump" found on my old clicky-type gaming keyboard.

[tawdry geyser]

Thanks so much for sharing

I'm quite exited to hear this opinion from other people too. Before I worked at Wooting I was also just a customer with tons of feedback, and got to test out new firmware/builds
Reading this makes me really want to push for 'velocity based' rapid trigger options, as this was also something I had trouble with when I first tested Rapid Trigger.

Now back on topic; if we keep assuming it is caused from the switches itself, it could be that the A key has slightly more wobble or worse readings than the D key. I personally experienced something similar to this on a prototype keyboard in the past, but on the B/V keys.
if signal readings are unstable on those keys (can check this with the Touch RGB Fx), then lowering your keyboard brightness can help give more stable reading (especially with tachyon mode on).
Otherwise there are spare switches included in the box that you could see if replacing it makes any difference

[pliant lodge]

I've now tried with tachymon mode off + brightness 0 and I get the same results. I'm pretty convinced that I just have less control with my ring finger than my index finger when it comes to distance-based actuation.

For now, I am using 0.6mm actuation, 0.6 RT downstroke and 0.6 RT upstroke with continuous rapid trigger enabled and it feels spot on both in KZ movement maps and deathmatch and I'm very happy with how much snappier it feels compared to my old kb. Perhaps I'll lower these values as I get more used to the kb.

That being said, my A key sometimes feels "mushy?" compared to my D key. Maybe it wobbles more on the way down compared to my D key? It even sounds slightly different than my D key when clicking it down. Is this a keycap issue or switch issue? And would I need a switch puller to replace it with one of the extra switches?

[limber furnace]

can u share u profile...

[pliant lodge]

6e26f77b443986c6c800745d750dfd1657af

[ebon junco]

@pliant lodge what is continuous rapid trigger ?

[pliant lodge]

Its a setting in the rapid trigger "advanced settings" section. The definition they give: "When enabled, Rapid trigger ends when the entire key is released. When disabled, Rapid trigger ends at the actuation point."

Say for example your actuation point is 2mm. Then, with continuous rapid trigger disabled, rapid trigger would work between 2mm to 4mm, and stop working once you get past 2mm

[turbid ferry]

ah, the trigger then reacts quasi continuously/always

[pliant lodge]

But with it enabled, it'll keep working till u fully release the key